Bambu Lab general thread - X1, X2, P1, A1, H2 series (Page 29 of 30)
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Originally Posted By Kharn: I thought the H2C was a laser-equipped H2D, I didn't realize it was a tool changer.  No wonder the Prusa fan boy in the office has been so quiet lately. Anyone using an H2C? I may have to start saving for one. We have far more H2D users here due to the general handiness of the H2D and the general Niche use of the H2C which typically isn't what most of us here are geared towards. The H2D swaps between two nozzles very quickly and has more purge waste swapping colors, but the H2C with its tool changer allows those colors to swap with less waste, but slower than the left/right of the H2D, so really it depends on what you value more. For most people, two nozzles that swap quickly is more useful than a toolchanger that swaps more slowly albeit with more colors. I'd be curious to see how firmware timing advancements come to fruition but when I bought my H2D, the H2D could swap nozzles about 5x faster than the H2C could. That adds up. |
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Originally Posted By Kharn: I thought the H2C was a laser-equipped H2D, I didn't realize it was a tool changer. No wonder the Prusa fan boy in the office has been so quiet lately. Anyone using an H2C? I may have to start saving for one. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: We have far more H2D users here due to the general handiness of the H2D and the general Niche use of the H2C which typically isn't what most of us here are geared towards. The H2D swaps between two nozzles very quickly and has more purge waste swapping colors, but the H2C with its tool changer allows those colors to swap with less waste, but slower than the left/right of the H2D, so really it depends on what you value more. For most people, two nozzles that swap quickly is more useful than a toolchanger that swaps more slowly albeit with more colors. I'd be curious to see how firmware timing advancements come to fruition but when I bought my H2D, the H2D could swap nozzles about 5x faster than the H2C could. That adds up. Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By Kharn: I thought the H2C was a laser-equipped H2D, I didn't realize it was a tool changer. No wonder the Prusa fan boy in the office has been so quiet lately. Anyone using an H2C? I may have to start saving for one. We have far more H2D users here due to the general handiness of the H2D and the general Niche use of the H2C which typically isn't what most of us here are geared towards. The H2D swaps between two nozzles very quickly and has more purge waste swapping colors, but the H2C with its tool changer allows those colors to swap with less waste, but slower than the left/right of the H2D, so really it depends on what you value more. For most people, two nozzles that swap quickly is more useful than a toolchanger that swaps more slowly albeit with more colors. I'd be curious to see how firmware timing advancements come to fruition but when I bought my H2D, the H2D could swap nozzles about 5x faster than the H2C could. That adds up. I print a lot of 4 color projects with 0.4 and 0.2mm nozzles, mainly stuff for tabletop wargames that I take the time to paint in Bambu before I print it so it's durable vs conventional painting (especially the stuff I donate to the game store). I use my HTs to hold spare rolls for the two lowest rolls in the AMS. Most of my print jobs are 200-400g per plate and each project will be 5-10 plates. My X1C's poo collector fills up frequently.
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| I don't print a lot of 3+ color items. Mainly just 2 color like labels for Obsessed's filament dry boxes, and support + filament combos. With my X1C the poop bin filled up pretty quickly. With the H2D, I have emptied it less than 5 times over ~1K hours of printing and most of the time it was less than half full. When I do print 3 or more colors I try to keep the most used color on the left nozzle and the others on the right. |
Who, What, Where? Call Sign, Snowball
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Had the same message on my H2D...drove me crazy for awhile until I figured out you have to download the latest firmware update for your printer onto a USB stick. Even if it's the same version, download it anyway. Insert USB stick into printer and go to the firmware update page and that should take care of it. It did mine. This is done, it's running the new z motor calibration now. Thank you again for the info. |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
Ok I have been trying for a day now and cant seem to figure it out..... printing Gridfinity for a few drawers in my toolbox, some drawers are 15 plates.... I have tried slicing all and printing all so that I can just hit next plate after each finishes rather than going back to the computer to slice and send each individually each time and can't figure it out for the life of me... It slices them all, then I hit print all and sends it over, but after the first plate finishes thats it. Help a dummy before I get even more frustrated. Trying to expedite this and allow my wife to be able to empty it and keep it going so it doesnt take me a week to print 2 drawers worth 
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Originally Posted By plinker8: Ok I have been trying for a day now and cant seem to figure it out..... printing Gridfinity for a few drawers in my toolbox, some drawers are 15 plates.... I have tried slicing all and printing all so that I can just hit next plate after each finishes rather than going back to the computer to slice and send each individually each time and can't figure it out for the life of me... It slices them all, then I hit print all and sends it over, but after the first plate finishes thats it. Help a dummy before I get even more frustrated. Trying to expedite this and allow my wife to be able to empty it and keep it going so it doesnt take me a week to print 2 drawers worth You submit plates to the printer individually. If the prints are the same, just hit print again on the printer screen. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: You submit plates to the printer individually. If the prints are the same, just hit print again on the printer screen. There is no way to create a queue that is sent to the printer and then you can hit next after each plate? I could of sworn I saw that on a video but can't for the life of me find it now |
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Originally Posted By plinker8: There is no way to create a queue that is sent to the printer and then you can hit next after each plate? I could of sworn I saw that on a video but can't for the life of me find it now Its not automated. The closest thing you can do is hit print all. It bundkes all plates into a single GCODE file, but after the first plate is done, you have to clear the plate, then you hit print again, and you have to manually select which plate you want to print. Repeat the process. It just embeds all plates into a file, which actually in many ways drives complication rather than simplicity. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Its not automated. The closest thing you can do is hit print all. It bundkes all plates into a single GCODE file, but after the first plate is done, you have to clear the plate, then you hit print again, and you have to manually select which plate you want to print. Repeat the process. It just embeds all plates into a file, which actually in many ways drives complication rather than simplicity. Understood now, well that kind of stinks but oh well. Nothing is perfect
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: We have far more H2D users here due to the general handiness of the H2D and the general Niche use of the H2C which typically isn't what most of us here are geared towards. The H2D swaps between two nozzles very quickly and has more purge waste swapping colors, but the H2C with its tool changer allows those colors to swap with less waste, but slower than the left/right of the H2D, so really it depends on what you value more. For most people, two nozzles that swap quickly is more useful than a toolchanger that swaps more slowly albeit with more colors. I'd be curious to see how firmware timing advancements come to fruition but when I bought my H2D, the H2D could swap nozzles about 5x faster than the H2C could. That adds up. Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By Kharn: I thought the H2C was a laser-equipped H2D, I didn't realize it was a tool changer. No wonder the Prusa fan boy in the office has been so quiet lately. Anyone using an H2C? I may have to start saving for one. We have far more H2D users here due to the general handiness of the H2D and the general Niche use of the H2C which typically isn't what most of us here are geared towards. The H2D swaps between two nozzles very quickly and has more purge waste swapping colors, but the H2C with its tool changer allows those colors to swap with less waste, but slower than the left/right of the H2D, so really it depends on what you value more. For most people, two nozzles that swap quickly is more useful than a toolchanger that swaps more slowly albeit with more colors. I'd be curious to see how firmware timing advancements come to fruition but when I bought my H2D, the H2D could swap nozzles about 5x faster than the H2C could. That adds up. That about covers it. I have an H2D and an H2C. They’re equivalent machines outside of saving waste. Print times aren’t dramatically different if you arrange your colors properly in the AMSes. I have not had to clean the H2C yet, so not looking forward to having to clean up all the fiddly bits of the tool change hardware. (On this note, anyone know a good quality handheld vacuum for electronics?) Otherwise, if you’re happy with your H2D, I wouldn’t bother with an H2C unless you do a lot of multicolor prints. |
We're getting close, real close. And now for some more bad news... Ready?
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Originally Posted By plinker8: There is no way to create a queue that is sent to the printer and then you can hit next after each plate? I could of sworn I saw that on a video but can't for the life of me find it now Hey! Something Prusa can do that Bambu doesn't! |
| I know it can be done via MakerWorld. I regularly pick jobs that have multiple plates and you can tell it to print the next plate if they first plate prints right. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By bulldog1967: New H2D and new AMS2. Keep getting this error: "AMS A Slot 1 assist motor is stalled，due to excessive resistance in the tube between the filament buffer and the toolhead." Also happened on Slot 2: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/6755/Screenshot_2026-07-05_at_4_52_31%C3%A2%E2%82%AC%C2%AFPM-3791596.png No idea how to fix this. Can you post a picture of the setup, specifically showing the routing of the PTFE tubes? |
EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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Originally Posted By nikdfish: Maybe double check that tube ends are fully seated? Filament might get jammed if it it hits a "ledge". Also trim a fresh end on the filament & eliminate any tendency for it to have a bend rather than being straight. A lot of people seem to not push the tube in far enough on the printer....there is an area the tube can hit that will stop it but it's short of where it should be. @bulldog1967 I'd disconnect the tubes from the back of the printer and try to reseat them. From the inside, you should see the tube in the little windows circled in blue....if not they're not fully seated. I'd also shorten the tube from the AMS 2 and get rid of the loop towards the bottom, that's going to add a lot of resistance to the filament. 
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EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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Originally Posted By bulldog1967: I cut the tubes shorter, and made sure to insert them until they stop: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/6755/IMG_1658-3791705.jpg Tried to slice and print a two color file and got this message: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/6755/Screenshot_2026-07-08_at_3_27_09%C3%A2%E2%82%AC%C2%AFPM-3791706.png I would rerun the setup, if it still doesn't work, try to eliminate variables. First thing I'd do is unhook the tube from the AMS and try to push a piece of filament through that tube all the way to the print head. If you can do that, the problem has to be in the AMS unit. Does the AMS do anything when you load a spool in it? During the reading of the spool (if Bambu) it loads the filament fairly far. Have you tried switching the AMS to the other nozzle? That might help if the issue is in the buffer What happens if you manually load material via the touch screen instead of a sliced file? |
EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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Originally Posted By fox2008: I would rerun the setup, if it still doesn't work, try to eliminate variables. First thing I'd do is unhook the tube from the AMS and try to push a piece of filament through that tube all the way to the print head. If you can do that, the problem has to be in the AMS unit. Does the AMS do anything when you load a spool in it? During the reading of the spool (if Bambu) it loads the filament fairly far. Have you tried switching the AMS to the other nozzle? That might help if the issue is in the buffer What happens if you manually load material via the touch screen instead of a sliced file? Originally Posted By fox2008: Originally Posted By bulldog1967: I cut the tubes shorter, and made sure to insert them until they stop: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/6755/IMG_1658-3791705.jpg Tried to slice and print a two color file and got this message: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/6755/Screenshot_2026-07-08_at_3_27_09%C3%A2%E2%82%AC%C2%AFPM-3791706.png I would rerun the setup, if it still doesn't work, try to eliminate variables. First thing I'd do is unhook the tube from the AMS and try to push a piece of filament through that tube all the way to the print head. If you can do that, the problem has to be in the AMS unit. Does the AMS do anything when you load a spool in it? During the reading of the spool (if Bambu) it loads the filament fairly far. Have you tried switching the AMS to the other nozzle? That might help if the issue is in the buffer What happens if you manually load material via the touch screen instead of a sliced file? I did move the AMS and AMS HT to the left nozzle during the process, something I had been meaning to do for a while. The HT was on the right with the AMS2 before. |
Who, What, Where? Call Sign, Snowball
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Originally Posted By Saker13: I had that problem last weekend with an H2D/AMS/AMS2/AMS HT set up that has been fine since I got it. Wound up having to shut the printer down and unplug everything from it after 30 minutes of trying to run the setup. Then I restarted the printer with one AMS plugged in and ran the set up. Repeated the process, shutting the printer down each time for the AM2 and AMS HT. All is well now. Guess the printer got a case of dementia or something. I did move the AMS and AMS HT to the left nozzle during the process, something I had been meaning to do for a while. The HT was on the right with the AMS2 before. Originally Posted By Saker13: Originally Posted By fox2008: Originally Posted By bulldog1967: I cut the tubes shorter, and made sure to insert them until they stop: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/6755/IMG_1658-3791705.jpg Tried to slice and print a two color file and got this message: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/6755/Screenshot_2026-07-08_at_3_27_09%C3%A2%E2%82%AC%C2%AFPM-3791706.png I would rerun the setup, if it still doesn't work, try to eliminate variables. First thing I'd do is unhook the tube from the AMS and try to push a piece of filament through that tube all the way to the print head. If you can do that, the problem has to be in the AMS unit. Does the AMS do anything when you load a spool in it? During the reading of the spool (if Bambu) it loads the filament fairly far. Have you tried switching the AMS to the other nozzle? That might help if the issue is in the buffer What happens if you manually load material via the touch screen instead of a sliced file? I did move the AMS and AMS HT to the left nozzle during the process, something I had been meaning to do for a while. The HT was on the right with the AMS2 before. Bolded part from fox2008's reply is where I started when I had something similar happening a while back with my H2D/AMS2. In my case, it was a small piece of PLA that broke off in the toolhead at the top of the nozzle where the filament feeds in. I figured it out when I could see I was pushing the filament all the way to the tool head but then couldn't get it to load/extrude. Pulling the nozzle and taking out the piece of filament was an easy fix. |
We're getting close, real close. And now for some more bad news... Ready?
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I had this error recently on an X2D combo I got. When looking into it, there was apparently a bad batch of AMS2Pros with the internal hub. Open a support ticket and let them walk you through the troubleshooting and if it is, they will send you a new one. ETA - I just noticed your error was between the buffer and the toolhead, so it may not be the same stall error I was getting. But if you open a support ticket, they will walk you through troubleshooting. And if it is due to faulty hardware, you'll likely have to go through this process anyway to get it covered under warranty. |
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Originally Posted By fox2008: I would rerun the setup, if it still doesn't work, try to eliminate variables. First thing I'd do is unhook the tube from the AMS and try to push a piece of filament through that tube all the way to the print head. If you can do that, the problem has to be in the AMS unit. Does the AMS do anything when you load a spool in it? During the reading of the spool (if Bambu) it loads the filament fairly far. Have you tried switching the AMS to the other nozzle? That might help if the issue is in the buffer What happens if you manually load material via the touch screen instead of a sliced file? @fox2008 Disconnected the AMS and tried to manually feed filament through the right buffer. It would not feed. Here is a photo of both buffers, it looks like the right (top) one the spring is compressed?  ETA, NVM, pulled out a 6" piece of PETG that was broken inside the buffer. Thanks! |
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Originally Posted By bulldog1967: @fox2008 Disconnected the AMS and tried to manually feed filament through the right buffer. It would not feed. Here is a photo of both buffers, it looks like the right (top) one the spring is compressed? https://i.imgur.com/ziaTqbk.jpeg Originally Posted By bulldog1967: Originally Posted By fox2008: I would rerun the setup, if it still doesn't work, try to eliminate variables. First thing I'd do is unhook the tube from the AMS and try to push a piece of filament through that tube all the way to the print head. If you can do that, the problem has to be in the AMS unit. Does the AMS do anything when you load a spool in it? During the reading of the spool (if Bambu) it loads the filament fairly far. Have you tried switching the AMS to the other nozzle? That might help if the issue is in the buffer What happens if you manually load material via the touch screen instead of a sliced file? @fox2008 Disconnected the AMS and tried to manually feed filament through the right buffer. It would not feed. Here is a photo of both buffers, it looks like the right (top) one the spring is compressed? https://i.imgur.com/ziaTqbk.jpeg May or may not be related to your issue but I'd disconnect the tube from the inside of the top buffer and try to manually feed filament again....if your print head is in the normal parking position over the waste shoot, the tube between the buffer & print head seems to be too short. The lighting could be throwing it off but normally that tube is grey and the bottom one is white....did you replace it? If you disconnect the tube from the inside, does the buffer return to the center? Roughly the same place as the bottom one? |
EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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Unplug the HT and deal with the AMS2 for now. After you get your problem sorted out you can reconnect it. Like previously mentioned, make sure the PTFE tubes are pushed all the way into the buffer - or whatever they call that thing in the back of the printer. If you can see the PTFE tubing through the little windows, you're good to go. If you don't see the tubing, it's not inserted all the way. Behind that plastic cover next to the buffer is a small eyelet that the tubing has to pass through before it reaches the buffer. On my H2D I would push the tubing into the back of the printer and the mouth of the tubing would catch on the eyelet, preventing it from being pushed all the way in. I figured I had a piece of filament stuck in there and once I got the cover off, I could see the problem. Matter of fact, I don't plan on ever pulling those tubes out of the buffer. I just cut the tubing about 4 inches from where it enters the back of the printer and added a coupler. One of these; PTFE coupler Watch the filament as it feeds from the AMS. Mine would push it to the buffer and could go no further, then the AMS would retract the filament back to the spool and try it again. It would repeat that three or four times before it gives up and generates the error message If the filament makes it all the way to the print head you should be able to pull out the PTFE tube from the top of the print head and there should be filament sticking out of it. You can also take a long piece of filament and push it through by hand. It should make it all the way to the print head without much resistance. Hope this helps. |
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Originally Posted By bulldog1967: I cut the AMS ptfe tube too short, causing the filament to break in the buffer. Once I installed a new piece at the recommended length (600mm, btw) I am back in business. Excellent. Good to know the PTFE tube being too short is another cause for those errors. The times I’ve gotten them, it’s either a tangle on the spool, the spool dragging on the side hanger, or something in the filament path. |
We're getting close, real close. And now for some more bad news... Ready?
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Originally Posted By bulldog1967: I cut the AMS ptfe tube too short, causing the filament to break in the buffer. Once I installed a new piece at the recommended length (600mm, btw) I am back in business. Good to hear. Funny enough, I've never seen that error in person until this morning. The cause was tangled filament on the spool....when it happened, I remembered this thread and came to post it.
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EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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You guys all have bad luck or cant follow directions. 1300 hours on my H2D. Zero error messages ever. 3000 hours on the X1C. I had the AMS hub go bad, so an error for that which is dumb as the hub is optional turns out. I just put them on a wye splitter and the damn thing still works fine. Maybe Im lucky. 
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: You guys all have bad luck or cant follow directions. 1300 hours on my H2D. Zero error messages ever. 3000 hours on the X1C. I had the AMS hub go bad, so an error for that which is dumb as the hub is optional turns out. I just put them on a wye splitter and the damn thing still works fine. Maybe Im lucky. Mine was self inflicted, the end of the filament slipped out of my hand while loading a spool and I was running late to a meeting, so I didn't take the time fix it before throwing it in the HT and loading. Came back from the meeting to the blinking red light. At the time, saving 60 seconds seemed worth it. 
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EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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I think my H2D has been compromised by the liberals . The left nozzle has an AMS and AMS HT. The right nozzle has an AMS2. The left nozzle works with no issue. The right nozzle gives me an extruder error, every time I try to use it. Many cold pulls done, extruder disassembled, etc. This is annoying. |
Who, What, Where? Call Sign, Snowball
| Want to have a couple spare hot ends for my P2S. Are the Panda Juicer hot ends worth buying over the Bambu ones? |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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How often are you guys cleaning your build plates? It seems like I start having adhesion issues after 2-3 prints without cleaning. This has been with pla on the textured pei plate that came in the x2d and the super cool plate that I bought separately. The textured plate will have issues with the first layer sticking, the smooth plate seems to be fine at first, then lose grip after the parts are 1/4"-3/8" tall. |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
| I'm cleaning my textured pei plate about every 10 prints or so. I havent had any adhesion issues with pla. |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Originally Posted By Bonzo: Based on this thread and others, I am leaning towards an X2D/AS combo for $899. Any final opinions before I pull the trigger? This will be my first printer. That's what I bought recently. It's my first printer as well. It's been about as good as I'd hoped. There's definitely been some learning moments but it's basically been like an appliance. After figuring out that the power adapter thing on the back of the printer that the ams plugs into wasn't plugged in from the factory, it's worked as it should. Besides my mistakes or misunderstandings, that is. I wanted a capable machine that I wasn't going to outgrow any time soon and I feel like I made a decent choice with the x2d |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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Originally Posted By DFARM: How often are you guys cleaning your build plates? It seems like I start having adhesion issues after 2-3 prints without cleaning. This has been with pla on the textured pei plate that came in the x2d and the super cool plate that I bought separately. The textured plate will have issues with the first layer sticking, the smooth plate seems to be fine at first, then lose grip after the parts are 1/4"-3/8" tall. Depends on how much you touch it. I havent washed my plates aince I bought my H2D in January, 1300 print hours ago. What is your cleaning process? |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Depends on how much you touch it. I havent washed my plates aince I bought my H2D in January, 1300 print hours ago. What is your cleaning process? Regular dawn dish soap with hot water on a non scratch sponge, then blown dry with compressed air |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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I'm kind if impressed with the print in place hinges and latches on the P2S tool box I printed last night. Much better than the ones I've seen that use a length if filament as a hinge pin. |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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This may be a dumb question, but is the H2D not smart enough to turn off spool rotation in AMS 2 Pro drying for the spool currently in use? I initiated drying with spool rotation in both the AMS HT and the AMS 2 Pro earlier in the day after securing filament ends in the spools. Later in the day I loaded one spool of filament in each AMS for a two color print job. The print job called for only a small amount of material from the AMS HT, mostly using that from the AMS 2 Pro. Early in the job I started getting error messages about a jam in the AMS 2 Pro, possible filament jam, etc. After the third or fourth time, while still half way through the first layer, I noticed the non loaded spools backing up & the loaded spool "hopping". I turned off drying on both AMS units & continued the job. It has only been 10 or 15 minutes, but the job is on the second layer, still running & with no errors. Did I shoot myself in the foot by starting a print job without first explicitly canceling drying spool rotation? FWIW I do have an external power supply on the AMS 2 Pro. |
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I've been doing a little printing lately. I modeled some parts for a ham radio antenna my father wants to build. They printed find with PETG, but he wants to try nylon and that is proving to be a little more challenging. There was quite a bit of warping to the part I printed last night. I'm thinking it's a combination of things. I don't know that I dried the filament enough, and I'm sure a brim on the bottom of a freshly cleaned and glued plate would have helped also. I ordered up some of the Egloo PAHT-CF and we'll see how well that runs vs. the Bambu stuff. It's about half the cost, so if it's even decent that'll be a huge money saver. My father wants to print enough to sell these, so we'll see. |
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I just jumped into an H2C Have been pretty happy so far It's not lightning fast, but for everything I print, which is almost always multi colored, I appreciate less poop |
Originally Posted By bigbore:
The price for having a dog in your life isn't counted in vet bills and food, its a one time fee paid in tears. Worth every drop.
The price for having a dog in your life isn't counted in vet bills and food, its a one time fee paid in tears. Worth every drop.
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Ordered an AMS HT this morning. I want to experiment with some Glock frames and plan to use carbon fiber filaments. Maybe even start printing suppressors. |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok