I went there for a 10 day vacation - in 1983. Had a great time. Forget where we stayed but it was beachfront in Gosier. Just looked at Google maps/satellite and the entire beachfront looks different. The hotel where we stayed is not there.
Back then we'd walk into the village for dinner. Lunch was roach coaches near the hotel. Restaurants were roofed open air, shacks really, food cooked over charcoal, a few tables and you could see granny rocking the baby behind the kitchen in the family residence. Food was fresh and really good.
Beaches were topless - 18 to 80. Cities were interesting, rent a car and drive over to the volcano side - Basse Terre. You can drive pretty far up the volcano but the road is not for the faint of heart. On that half of the island is a rainforest park that is stunning. The drive to the eastern point of Grande-Terre was beautiful in a different way. I think I could see Africa from my house car.
Rode a local bus into Pointe-a-Pitre and we were the only tourists aboard. Dirt cheap and lots of stops.
People there are used to asshole French tourists and when they found out we were American they were wonderfully friendly. Except for the French white guy running the hotel restaurant who was a complete asshole. The French tourists have no idea of waiting their turn, will invade your space including brushing against you so elbows out at the breakfast buffet.
Then pretty much everything closed for the afternoon from noon to 4. For dinner restaurants didn't open until 7PM. We would go at 7 and pretty much be the only ones there. 9ish the restaurants were crowded until the wee hours. The casino didn't open until 11pm and was open all night.
That was Gosier in 1984. I'll bet a lot has changed.
Perhaps attitudes towards American tourists have changed so I'd recommend some caution until you get the feel for the place.