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Posted: 10/4/2020 12:50:20 PM EDT
Updated version of the WildFire has been released on keybase.
Still waiting on the SA version, then I'll probably print this instead of the WildFire. This one looks to be adjustable for tension on the buffer tube section, and leaves full access to the rear takedown pin. |
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When I first saw how Potato was going to deal the buffer tower flex in this design I was . I mean I see how it works but it's certainly only a face a mother could love.
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Wonder why they didn’t use the U bolt rather than the goofy side thing.
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Interesting concept. It looks weird but it looks like it would work. I love seeing how this stuff evolves and is refined.
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Quoted: I'd assume modularity. One section breaks, print out another and throw it in. Rather than printing a whole new lower. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Wonder why they didn’t use the U bolt rather than the goofy side thing. I'd assume modularity. One section breaks, print out another and throw it in. Rather than printing a whole new lower. Good point. Guessing the screw tensioner takes a good amount of abuse then. Looks better than the previous version that’s for sure. |
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The whole point of the Anderson designs:
- entirely 3d printable using PLA - uses stock FCG - minimal use of supports - replaceable parts for stress areas I did a Wildfire, and thought it was fine. Rear flex was noticable but didn't matter when the thing was shouldered. I also think the design would work better with a fiber-reinforced material, but that's probably true for any of this stuff. |
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It's nice that everything is 3d printable but unless there's a specific reason for it, they should design the fasteners and threads to be replaceable with actual hardware. It should also allow assembly with regular tools instead of a 3d printed assembly tool. This design's socket screws don't seem to match up with real allen wrenches. Every one I tried had too much slop.
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I may have to give this one a try. the other one lives full time on the dedicated .22.
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Quoted: I did a search for keybase and I couldn't find it. Something about a chat app? More info please. View Quote Keybase has a chat/file-sharing/crypto wallet program. https://keybase.io/download There are user made "teams" within the app. Search for "det_disp" and "det_disp.beta" for the teams that users post these to. The Hellfire (and other variants) are designed by user "potatosociety" and are posted in his public file folder. |
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Quoted: Finally got mine printed and mostly assembled... discovered I don't have any spare castle nuts Also, not sure what happened to cause that distinct layer line by the hammer pin... doesn't seem to be a weak layer, but I'll see when I shoot it https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/376127/Hellfire_Assembled-1634747.jpg View Quote Print one. |
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Quoted: Keybase has a chat/file-sharing/crypto wallet program. https://keybase.io/download There are user made "teams" within the app. Search for "det_disp" and "det_disp.beta" for the teams that users post these to. The Hellfire (and other variants) are designed by user "potatosociety" and are posted in his public file folder. View Quote Without this No WAY would I have found it. |
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Quoted: my printer went BRRRRRRRRRR! did the Hell Fire and Wild Fire, for not knowing what the hell I'm doing I think they turned out pretty nice, had a small learning curve, a little filing/sanding here and there but not much, am pretty impressed with the CR 10 V3, https://i.imgur.com/elzRpDll.jpg https://i.imgur.com/HIrH0jRl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/RyUQdSZl.jpg are there any files out there for barrels BGG LPK/FCG I'd like to make functioning non firing mock up's I got 5 young grandsons and these would be great for them to get familiar with at their age View Quote @mdw how many hours did it take to print on your v3? |
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Quoted: my printer went BRRRRRRRRRR! did the Hell Fire and Wild Fire, for not knowing what the hell I'm doing I think they turned out pretty nice, had a small learning curve, a little filing/sanding here and there but not much, am pretty impressed with the CR 10 V3, https://i.imgur.com/elzRpDll.jpg https://i.imgur.com/HIrH0jRl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/RyUQdSZl.jpg are there any files out there for barrels BGG LPK/FCG I'd like to make functioning non firing mock up's I got 5 young grandsons and these would be great for them to get familiar with at their age View Quote Hell yeah!! Looks better than some of the first prints I made. |
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Quoted: @mdw how many hours did it take to print on your v3? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: my printer went BRRRRRRRRRR! did the Hell Fire and Wild Fire, for not knowing what the hell I'm doing I think they turned out pretty nice, had a small learning curve, a little filing/sanding here and there but not much, am pretty impressed with the CR 10 V3, https://i.imgur.com/elzRpDll.jpg https://i.imgur.com/HIrH0jRl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/RyUQdSZl.jpg are there any files out there for barrels BGG LPK/FCG I'd like to make functioning non firing mock up's I got 5 young grandsons and these would be great for them to get familiar with at their age @mdw how many hours did it take to print on your v3? I didnt really keep accurate track of time the Hellfire was approx 26hrs on 100% infill 50% speed the wild fire was about 18, but I had no clue about infill settings and the infill was I think 60% what ever the default settings in cura for standard print is this one was my learning curve print @MajorPayne |
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A new version of the Hellfire was released today at the usual places.
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Figured I'd give it a shot. Hatchbox gray PLA. I have PLA+ but it's pink, figure if this gray one turns out fine I'll switch to pink, re-calibrate, and have a pink one in PLA+.
Attached File |
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6hrs and 45mins in to the print.
Attached File It's a pain in the ass taking pics with this phone and all the lighting I have in my enclosure. ETA: 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer height, 50mm/s speed, 6 wall line count, and 195c/60c which seems to work best for hatchbox pla on this printer. Halfway in to the first layer I had to dial back my flow rate a couple percent, pretty sure I forgot to calibrate e-steps on this last filament change so it was over-extruding just a bit with the gray. I kind of want to run it a bit slower and at 0.12-0.16 layer height for better detail on the next one. Thoughts? |
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Looks like you had a pretty significant layer issue about 1/2" in to the print on the receiver body. Since it's so consistent and only appeared at that height, might have a z-axis issue around when the nozzle is that far from the bed. You can test this by putting the nozzle around that height, then manually turn the thread z-rod back and forth to see if it's hanging up at all. Could be debris on the z-rod, or your brass z-rod nut on the oem extruder plate needs adjusted or loosened.
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Took 20 hours I think. The only issues were some minor boogering and fine stringing. Flicked the plastic boogers off with my pocket knife and after pulling away most of the strings I hit it with the heat gun to clean up the rest. ETA: Careful with the heatgun. The wall behind where the star coin goes on the other side of the magwell isn't as thick as the other walls and it tried to warp from the heat. Luckily I caught that and stopped heating that area.
Attached File Hatchbox PLA, 195/60c, 50mm/s, and all the recommended settings from the Hellfire PDF. Letters aren't as clean as I'd like, but I think dropping below 0.2 layer height and/or going a bit slower might up the quality a bit. I'll try that on the next one which will be eSun pink PLA+. |
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Quoted: Looks like you had a pretty significant layer issue about 1/2" in to the print on the receiver body. Since it's so consistent and only appeared at that height, might have a z-axis issue around when the nozzle is that far from the bed. You can test this by putting the nozzle around that height, then manually turn the thread z-rod back and forth to see if it's hanging up at all. Could be debris on the z-rod, or your brass z-rod nut on the oem extruder plate needs adjusted or loosened. View Quote Yea, I'm going to dive into that over the weekend and try to figure that out. It's not been in my prior prints except for the first print of the Hellfire, and its a shift in the X for a few layers, then shift back to pretty much spot on. You can see the shift on both the Core and the parts in black... My initial diagnostics on the Z screw didn't show anything stemming from there. I'll probably start by printing a smaller item and watch closely around that height. |
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Quoted: Took 20 hours I think. The only issues were some minor boogering and fine stringing. Flicked the plastic boogers off with my pocket knife and after pulling away most of the strings I hit it with the heat gun to clean up the rest. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/148395/Hellfire_004_jpg-1681967.JPG Hatchbox PLA, 195/60c, 50mm/s, and all the recommended settings from the Hellfire PDF. Letters aren't as clean as I'd like, but I think dropping below 0.2 layer height and/or going a bit slower might up the quality a bit. I'll try that on the next one which will be eSun pink PLA+. View Quote Your lettering looks quite a lot better than mine, which I did at 0.12 layer height. I'm honestly not sure if it is worth dropping from 0.2, as compared to my first iteration, I'm not seeing significant improvement. There is some, but not sure if it's worth the increased time. You can see the same shift in the grey lower also, but I just noticed it's at a different height... hmmm. Edit: Blue is 0.12mm on the core, Grey is 0.2mm layers. |
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I'm only a few months in to 3d printing so definitely not a pro, but it looks like that layer shifted on the y-axis assuming you didn't rotate it from default in your slicer and the receiver sat left to right on the bed.
On that gray lower, look to the left or right from the middle of the mag release button, your x-axis shifted too but didn't correct itself like the other layer. That didn't happen on the blue lower from what I can see. |
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Quoted: I'm only a few months in to 3d printing so definitely not a pro, but it looks like that layer shifted on the y-axis assuming you didn't rotate it from default in your slicer and the receiver sat left to right on the bed. On that gray lower, look to the left or right from the middle of the mag release button, your x-axis shifted too but didn't correct itself like the other layer. That didn't happen on the blue lower from what I can see. View Quote I rotated both the grey and blue 90* CCW looking from the top (magwell towards Y=0). Looking at the picture, I saw that also. Not really noticeable by eye on the lower, though. I do need to figure that shift out and correct it. |
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Quoted: I rotated both the grey and blue 90* CCW looking from the top (magwell towards Y=0). Looking at the picture, I saw that also. Not really noticeable by eye on the lower, though. I do need to figure that shift out and correct it. View Quote "Hey, 3d printing looks like a fun hobby!" = everyone before they buy and own one for any amount of time. It sometimes feels like having a second job that doesn't pay. |
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Quoted: Probably fighting belts and/or v-rollers on x and y. Might be time to tighten the belts, wipe down the wheels, and adjust those eccentric nuts. "Hey, 3d printing looks like a fun hobby!" = everyone before they buy and own one for any amount of time. It sometimes feels like having a second job that doesn't pay. View Quote Haha, yup! But, I have sold some prints for $$$ |
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