This is a follow up to my previous thread.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/General/For-those-wanting-to-buy-their-first-airbrush/186-2099443/

Since Floquil was bought out and put out of business I have had to learn to use the model acrylics on the market
now.  I use Vallejo Air paints (air = airbrush consistency).  They have a regular line that can be thinned a little and
sprays jut fine.

First, don't use water to thin.  I use the Vallejo thinner.  But there are some other airbrush thinners that are good.

With Floquil I could keep adding thinner and get to a near transparent coverage for weathering.  But before you
get to that point with acrylics the paint falls apart, and will also bead up on the plastic or surface being painted.

What I have found is you need to add "Acrylic Airbrush Medium" to the paint.  It has a milky look, and is the
binder in the paint... that is, it is paint minus the pigment.  I use Liquitex Airbrush Medium.

So, for more thinning i add to, say 10-12 drops of paint, I'll add 3 or 4 drops of Airbrush Medium, a drop or two of Vallejo
thinner, one drop Liquitex Slow-Dri acrylic retarder, and one drop of Liquitex Flow-Aid.

I buy Vallejo paints here:

https://www.thewarstore.com/vallejo-paint.html

https://www.thewarstore.com/Vallejo-Model-Air-200ml-Thinner.html

Liquitex Airbrush Medium

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001US2NQA

https://www.dickblick.com/products/liquitex-airbrush-medium/

Liquitex Flow-Aid (reduces viscosity)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KNPM46

https://www.dickblick.com/products/liquitex-flow-aid-fluid-additive/

Liquitex Slow-Dri (Retarder)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004M559I2

https://www.dickblick.com/items/00618-1034/

Also good thinner

https://www.ebay.com/itm/163003943566

Airbrush cleaner, I use Armor All Ammonia-Free Glass Cleaner (this is clear, not blue).  This can also be used
as thinner.  Ammonia in most glass cleaner will eat the plating off airbrushes.

Here is a great article on painting with acrylics, and it contains a paint chart for railroad colors, too.  Right click
on this link and save.

https://www.testors.com/~/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Documents/Testors/ebook/MRH-Acrylic-painting-guide-post-Floquil-Portrait.ashx

Some numbers for good weathering colors:

Vallejo

71.055  appx "Grimy Black"

71.251  good flat black I use for diesel soot

71.047  Good for Reefer Gray or SP Lark Light Gray, and various passenger cars of the 30's-40's.

71.048  Equiv to SP Lark Dark Gray

Weathering

71.131  Concrete

71.122  Sand

I use this also as "dust" after thinning with thinner and airbrush medium

Also, from Micromark, Mission Models paint is very good, and similar to Vallejo.

The dropper bottles the above paints come in are great, but if you have to mix your own, you can
buy similar dropper bottles on Ebay.  Also pick up the little plastic pill cups, and the throwaway
eyedroppers.  And i bought a bag of 1/4" stainless steel (stainless is important) ball bearings to
add to the dropper bottles before I close the up.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/271584716677

Here's a good airbrush supplier for model use.  You can buy from the same people via ebay.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/Airbrushing-Supplies/

This is the Master Airbrush Model G22

http://www.tcpglobal.com/MAS-G22.html?sc=113&category=3101396#.W3jNwjknbIV

For $3 more you get the same airbrush with 3 sizes of nozzles/needles, Model G222

http://www.tcpglobal.com/MAS-G222-SET.html?sc=113&category=3101396#.W3jNqjknbIU

10' hose for either of above airbrushes.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/ABD-TH-024-10.html?sc=113&category=3415926#.W3jOKDknbIU

You could spend far more for a Paasche or Iwata, but for our use these from Master Airbrush will do
just fine.  TCP Global also has parts.

How-to's

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PM0C4xCu_4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=joPBE7PbbOY

Cleaning the needle... just dip a Q-tip in the Armor All Glass Cleaner (clear, not blue) and stick in
the nozzle end of the airbrush and a quick twirl every so often.

Luke is sharp... these homebrew airbrushing liquids work well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDmKm3IK0pI  Make your own acrylic thinner.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvi5rlemZxI   Make your own acrylic retarder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_9JqC9ykBg   Make your own flow aid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ad7bNDfS3fI   Make  your own acrylic airbrush medium.

Glycerine also works great for airbrush lubricant.  So you can get a lot various uses
from a bottle of Glycerine.

This is good, too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0A9Ju61Xz4

And this loco was painted and weathered with Vallejo.  I was going for this look:

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And here is the result using the paints and methods here.  To look more like the prototype I could dip
a cotton swab in 91% Isopropyl and wipe some vertical streaks.  I may do that.

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Very interesting, OP - lots to digest here and in the other thread.

I have a harbor freight compressor and airbrush, and also have some bottles of acrylic paints intended for hobby use but not specifically for airbrushing, but have never used any of the stuff.

Is the liquitex airbrush medium similar to gesso?

Have you done acrylic paint on bare wood, and if so, what have you used to seal it with prior to painting?

No.  Airbrush Medium looks like milky water.  It is very thin.

No, I haven't.  Would you want the grain to show?  Then I would not put anything on to seal.

There are videos showing how to thin acrylics for airbrushing.  The problem is, some paints, intended to be brushed,
such as Citadel game piece paints, are quite thick out of the jar.  The Vallejo Air is just about right airbrushing straight
from the dropper bottle, but I thin just a little more.  The Vallejo model paint is for brushing, but can be thinned for
airbrushing, as can the Mission Model and other paints.  I have not been able to make Badger Modelflex work through
an airbrush.

My goal would be coverage of the wood without letting the grain show through. I've done some experiments with brushing on acrylic paint, with and without a base sealing coat, including sanding in-between coats, but it seems to go on very thickly so it's hard to get a smooth finish. Maybe I should have tried thinning the paint first. But airbrushing sounds like it might be worth a try.

You need to thin it correctly, whether airbrushing or regular brush.

There are a lot of modeling videos.  I suggest getting the materials I listed.

I cannot give you a formula, 5 parts of paint to 3 parts of whatever, etc.  Paint varies from brand to
brand.  Even within a given line, once you open a bottle, it will get thicker with time/age.  You will
have to thin more.  Also, some colors are thicker than others.

Using the airbrush medium is as important as the thinner, perhaps more.  The retarder, when brushing,
lets the paint flow out and level better before it begins to dry.  I've seen some paint jobs on game
pieces I would swear had to be airbrushed, but found out they were brushed by hand.

I appreciate the encouragement - I can see that I will want to do more experiments - even though the end 'goal' toward which I am working differs from your goals as a modeler, your detailed posts have been very helpful...

It was quite the learning curve for me to go from enamels to acrylics.  I mostly shoot Tamiya paints, but have a lot of Testors as well since Tamiya doesn't go by FS color standards.   One thing I learned early, don't go cheap and try to come up with concoctions to replace the manufacturers thinner. Even if it "works", it might not work like you think it does.  What the hell is $5 of thinner on a kit that costs $100-$300 with all the aftermarket parts, etc?  If you cannot afford the thinner, change hobbies you cheap bastards!

EDIT: I exclusively clean with lacquer thinner. Cuts through all Acrylics with no problems.  A gallon can at Lowes is less than a pint of Tamiya thinner.

Yep, learned as a kid I could buy a whole gallon of "paint thinner" at the hardware store for just a few bucks, and
it beat buying those tiny bottles of Testors paint thinner.  And was exactly the same stuff.

Yes, a good tip on lacquer thinner for cleaning acrylics.  But clean out the airbrush, but don't leave the lacquer thinner
in it.  After cleaning, put a couple of squirts of Armor All Windshield Cleaner (the clear, non-ammonia stuff) in the
airbrush hopper, spray some through the brush, backflush, and leave it in there with the cap on the hopper until
next time you use it.

Windshield cleaner is good, too.

A few photos of a current project I'm doing for another modeler.

Prototype:

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Model:
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Painting with Vallejo acrylics.  SP Lark Light Gray was selected instead of Lark Dark Gray to help simulate
fading.

Paint was mixed with about 15 drops of Vallejo Air 71.047, 3 drops Vallejo thinner, 3 drops Liquitex Airbrush
Medium, 1 drop Liquitex Slow Dri, 1 drop Liquitex Flow Aid.  It went on smoothly, good flow, no fuzzy
dry surface.

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Decals went on smoothly with use  of Wathers Solvaset.  After drying 24 hours two light coats of Krylon
Crystal Clear Flat (same as Testors Dullcoat).

Pretty good blend between the SP Scarlet (Vallejo 71.003) and the "wings" decals, and it will blend even
better once the loco is weathered.

I wrote the following for a model railroad site:

Painting with Vallejo acrylics. Since Floquil is gone, I had been in a panic about what to do. I had tried Scalecoat and some other paints, but just did not do it for me. I had tried Badger Modelflex, but the coverage was very poor and it just does not go though an airbrush. I have since discovered Vallejo and with a lot of experimenting am getting great results.

To about 15 drops (in the cup of the airbrush) of Vallejo Air (for airbrushing, these are the 71.xxx series) I add about 2 drops of Vallejo thinner, 2 drops of Liquitex Acrylic Airbrush Medium (this is the paint minus pigment), 1 drop each of Liquitex Flo-Aid and Slo-Dry. The Flo-Aid really helps it spray even better, and the Slo-Dry retarder keeps it from drying on the way from the airbrush to the model. It goes on wet instead of fuzzy dry particles. It gets better adhesion and just a far better finish.

With the Airbrush Medium, using even more, you can extend the paint so it is almost transparent without falling apart. This is great for weathering effects.

So this is what I've done in the past week. The Atlas GP38-2 shells were originally UP. I soaked off the yellow and gray overnight by immersing in 91% isopropyl. The next day, with a little brushing with an old toothbrush under a stream of water in the sink, the remainder came off and I had a clean, degreased, ready to paint shell.

I sprayed the red ends first, as it is easier to mask this way for the gray, rather than the other way around. I let them sit two days before masking and spraying the gray. There was NO problem lifting paint, and even with a little bleed here and there, the great coverage of the Vallejo paints touched up the problems without showing. Perfect blend.

I used Vallejo 71.003 Red for the Scarlet. There is no such thing, it's just red paint on the SPs. Research showed it was just red paint from SOCONY... Standard Oil Company of New York. Same red on Mobil signs. Other red, too, it's just red. Vallejo 71.048 for the SP Lark Dark Gray on the two GP38-2's. I used slightly lighter 71.047 gray on the GP7, which I did to simulate some fading. It will be faded even more with weathering.

After 2 days drying, decals were applied. Then after another two days decals drying, I applied Krylon Crystal Clear Flat, same stuff as Dullcoat. I use regular Walther's Solvaset for settling the decals.

Now, having screwed up before when doing more than one loco... some things to really pay attention to. Make sure you put the number decals on the numberboards the same number on both sides. I was doing 4873 and 4876. Make sure the numbers are right side up. The light bar for this loco is nearly symmetrical top to bottom. Nearly, but not quite. It only goes in one way. Mark it. And the cab numbers... make sure they are the same on both sides... haha. And when you put the numberboard/lights in, put the correct one in its cab. Just sayin'. ;-D

For the GP7 I used decal sheet 87-11 for lettering These are very pale gray, but on the loco look white. I used the smaller numbers for the cab to match the photo of the prototype.

This GP7 was built for another Arfcommer to MU with this loco, which I did for him a few months back.

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This is the GP7 prototype:

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Here is the shell almost finished:

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Continued in the next post.

The previous post had photos of the GP7 I'm working on for another Arfcommer.

These photos are of two GP38-2' I'm doing for myself.  Why not just buy in factory paint?

(1) I could not get the Cotton Belt version in factory paint.

(2) I got a PAIR of Atlas GP38-2's new in box for an incredibly low price.  They had ugly Union Pacific baby crap yellow paint.  I soaked the shells overnight in 91% Isopropyl alcohol (70% won't do it) and using an old toothbrush (I couldn't get away with using my wife's toothbrush) under a stream of water in the sink, I just
scrubbed off residue in the nooks and crannies.

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The Southern Pacific loco is factory paint (Atlas).  The two Cotton Belts are my paint.

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Awesome work.  Weathering and wear effects really add alot to a model.

Thank you!

Yes, about weathering.  As a friend says, "There's nothing shiny on the railroad."  Nor clean.  If if you want
something to look brand new, shiny is not realistic.

At the very least, a good coat or two of flat finish.  The old Modeler's standby, Testor's Dullcoat is OK, but
you can get the same thing in a much larger can for just a little more cost as Krylon Crystal Clear - Flat.

I have one loco that I want to look like it is new out of the rebuild shop.  First flat clear finish.  Next, some
"dust" was airbrushed lightly on the ends and along the lower half of the loco.  Finally, some flat black to
simulate diesel soot airbrushed on the area around the exhaust stack.  It would get this on the first run from
shop to its first stop.

Even my containers (on the intermodal cars) are weathered, from light dust, to rust and dust and diesel soot
on the top rightside corner, as if on a frame being pulled down the highway, the diesel tractor spitting soot
out on the trailer behind it.

And don't weather everything the same.  Do some heavy, some light, some in between.  Mix up amount and
type of weathering, color of accumulated dirt and grime.

On the rail cars, the trucks and sides of the wheels get weathered, too.

I grew up on a small farm, and we didn't pressure wash any equipment, so there was a unique layer of hydraulic fluid mixed with field dust on the back of the tractors or spots where fuel or oil spilled, and the dust mixed in to make a thick gooey paste.  That stuff had to be scraped and wire brushed in order to clean. the caveat was when you cleaned it off, you could see the original paint color underneath, untouched by UV rays.  Sun faded paint is another cool effect.

We made sure to grease everything that required greasing, plus greased the chains to reduce friction.  Around gears  there would be a distinct spatter pattern where grease flew off.

Exactly!  I still have to paint some diesel stains on the fuel tanks.  I use glossy clear brushed on for fresh diesel overflow, and darker colors for older stains.

In the thread about my railroad, the Mijack crane has grease oozing from around the pivots on the lifting arms, rust where the heat has burned the silver paint off the muffler, dust on the sides of the tires and heavier (I used a light gray) on the tire treads.  The container lift trucks and forklift have grease on the mast.  The forklift has the tops of the forks worn shiny.

Future weathering on some of the locomotives... the wheel bearing guides will be paintec chromate green, and bearing caps chromate yellow, as if the trucks were freshly serviced.

The Rio Grande locomotive, the battery compartment door was recently replaced, and still has not had black painted over the light gray primer.  There is rust below the dynamic brakes where the superheated air from the resistor grid (like elements of a toaster) has burnt paint and the exposed metal has begun to rust.

Bottom and side edges of the snowplows (on front of the locomotives) have the paint scraped off.  Did that with a small file and X-acto, exposing the metal (pewter).  If using a plastic snowplow, a little silver paint, and rust along the edges will give the same effect.

I like to get some flat black and rail brown airbrushed on the pilots before mounting the snowplow.  Then weather the plow, too.  Grime accumulates behind the plow and doesn't wear or wash off.

Couplers will not retain paint, so quicly become a nice brown/rust shade.

Spraying some flat white, very thinned out, over a locomotive, letting it dry, then using a cotton swab dipped in alcohol, removing it in places, leaving white haze, duplicates sunbleached and fading paint.

It's important to observe how various things age, stain, weather, and try to duplicate that.

I'm painting a boxcar right now, and will paint one door a completely "wrong" color, to look like one that has been replaced by what was handy.

I've done the same with random hatch covers on grain cars.  Or painting a few primer red here and there.

All of these little details add to the look.

Here's photos of the GP7 I've been painting.  I just finished the decoder installation.  It has the TCS WOW Sound Decoder #1774.
The WOW decoders not only have a wide selection of sounds... I picked the EMD 567 non-turbo 567 prime mover sound, Nathan
P3 horn (the correct horn for that loco), and one of the SP bells... but the decoder also has built in Keep Alive capacitors.

I was easily able to install two ESU 50321 "sugar cube" cell phone speakers, one in the short hood between the cab and headlight,
the other in the long hood over the rear truck.  No milling or having to remove weights.

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Some minor adjusting using JMRI's Decoder Pro with my computer connected to the Command Station, to the programming track,
and it is running very smoothly!

Here it is on the main for a test run.  Next I'll snap in the front side handrails, mask the windows, headlights, number boards, and
proceed with weathering.

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This is what the prototype looks like that I'll be copying.

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For the life of me I can’t get Vallejo white to spray worth a flip. When it’s thinned enough to flow it just beads. Other than that I’ve enjoyed spraying their paint.

Don't thin with just thinner.  Use "Airbrush Medium".  This is the binder in acrylic paint minus the pigment.

Overthinning makes Acrylics fall apart, or bead up as you have experienced.

Try thinning with just airbrush medium, experiment with amount.  You will also need some Flow Aid (viscosity
reducer) and Retarder.

Try the Vallejo white with the Liquitex products listed here in the first post.  I think you'll get the results you
are looking for.

Alternatively, you can try making your own medium and other additives from the links further down to Luke's
Affordable Paint Service also in the first post.  Luke used matte medium from Galleria, but you can also use
matte medium from Liquitex.  I would put more of the matte medium than he did, where it is milky, but not
thick, still watery.

But try the Liquitex liquids first.

Just to show a little progress on the Atlas GP7 Cotton Belt #304, here is the prototype:

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The horn is a Nathan P3 on the right.  That antenna, on the left, is referred to as a "firecracker" antenna.

Note also there were some welded patches on the top of the short hood where a steam generator (for
passenger helper service) had been removed and the top patched.  I simulated that with some .010"
sheet plastic.  It so happened that using a notebook hole punch was just about perfect for the round
patch.

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The horn is a brass casting, Cal-Scale #550 Nathan P3R4.

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There is a metal "firecracker" antenna available, but it is too fragile in my opinion.  I made this firecracker
using a piece of LED lead and slipped a piece of 22 gauge wire insulation.  A little hole was drilled via
pin vise, and a little CA to glue it in.

The windows have been masked, remaining handrails installed, and it is ready to weather.

Nice work op. I love model stuff but I’m unfortunately not artistic at all and super detail oriented so I’m never content with my own work. Most of my stuff ends up looking like a first graders macaroni and finger paint art project.

I just figured out why I could not get the camera angle right for the horn on the loco.  If you look at the
prototype photo the outer forward facing horns are low, the rear facing horn is high, on top of its mounting
bracket.

For the horn on the model, the outer two forward facing horns are located high, on top of the bracket, and
the rear facing horn is low.

But there is no available horn exactly like the one in the photo.  The one I have on there now is as close as
I can get to the original.

Oh well, no one looking at it cruising down the rails is likely to notice the difference and call me on it.

I was just out in the workshop airbrushing and did some white just as I described.  I had it very thinned out and no beading up or other problems.

I did just as described in my earlier post replying to you, thinning with just a few drops of Vallejo thinner and some Liquitex Airbrush Medium.  In fact,
I used about twice as much of the Airbrush Medium as I did thinner.  I also used the Slo-Dry (retarder) and Flo-Aid (flow enhancer), one drop each.

Not a bit of a problem.  And by adding more airbrush medium I was able to put just a sun-bleached looking haze on a model.  No beading.  The
paint held together.

I just put the last clear coat on about 45 minutes ago.

Here is the prototype:

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And here is the model:

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Here are the Cotton Belt GP38-2's from earlier in this thread.  Now they have been "weathered" for a more
realistic look.

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Air hoses, MU cable, sunshades and a few other delicate details have been left off on purpose.  These locos
will be in daily use by myself and visitors.  Delicate details would soon be found trackside on down the line
somewhere, so best to just leave them off.

I did some weathering on 9 Kato SD40's, SD40R's, and SD45R's.  These locos will be used for mainline use, moving trains
cross country from here to whereever.

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However, they needed still more weathering.  The shiny, light gray plastic sideframes of the trucks needed some weathering,
too.  For these I used a black "wash"... a very thinned paint, which is flowed on with a brush and allowed to settle in the nooks
and crannies.

Here is the overall weathing on one of these SD40's.  The diesel soot, dust and general grime are sprayed on with an airbrush.

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Weathering includes flat black diesel soot on the roof, and desert sand airbrushed along the sides.  Also some subtle browns and
light grays (to simulate sun bleaching).  Also a little rust drybrushed on and below the dynamic brake grid.  Dynamic brake grids
are resistive grids that heat up like a toaster, and the fan on top blows through the grid to dissipate the heat.  It burns the paint
off where the hot air blows, blistering, peeling (like using a heat gun) and rusting.

Finally the "wash"... in this case Black Wash by Flames of War.  A wash can also be made from regular flat black (or dark brown)
acrylic, some Liquitex Airbrush Medium, water, and a little isopropyl alcohol as a wetting agent.  It is simply flowed on with a brush
and allowed to dry.  Washes can also be used in grills to add a bit of "depth".

Some of the wash was also used in the preceding photo on the side of the fuel tank as fuel spillage below the filler.

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A few locos got a further treatment.  The bearing guides were painted green and bearing caps painted chromate yellow.  This was
to simulate freshly serviced trucks.  Some black wash was applied over the too bright paint to tone it down a bit.  Some new bearing
guides are chromate yellow or light gray.

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This was done on three of the SD40's, and two of the GP38-2's.

I had one of those Master Airbrushes from TCP with 3 needles and nozzles (.2, .3, and .5mm). It never did work right.
The .5mm Nozzle was missing. They sent me a replacement and it broke in two without even tightening it. .3mm would barely deliver paint, and when it did, it spattered. .2mm was useless. I threw it away last night.
I do have an Iwata HP-C Plus and now recently an HP-CS and they're great. Pricey...but great. However, the air valve in my HP-C Plus needed replacing...it would stop air flow if the trigger was pressed all the way down. $30+ for a new Iwata air valve, so I tried the air valve from the Master Airbrush and it works on the Iwata until I get a replacement Iwata valve.

I have a Paasche VL, an Iwata Neo, and a couple of Master Airbrush.  For weathering and general painting I mostly
use the Master Airbrush and have not had any problems with it.

In order to "dirty up" the bearing guides, is that done by thinning out the paint to the point it's semi-translucent?

Thank you

The bearing guides were painted with full strength green, the bearing caps chromate yellow.

I used a "wash" over it all, truck sideframes and the guides, bearing caps.  The washes I use are either the black or the
brown wash from Flames of War.  But you can make your own.

Here is black wash from Vallejo.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/272150301479

This is about painting game pieces, but the same techniques apply to military and model railroad models.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5R48xhU_dy0

I think this is the stuff Luke was using to make his wash in the video above.  (aside, he has some really good videos... watch them all)

https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Jet-Dry-Rinse-Dishwasher-Drying/dp/B00824TD86

The cool thing about using washes, it is a no skill technique.  It settles in the low spots and really brings out the detail,
while dirtying it up enough to look real.

Edit... my wife just told me you can get the rinse aid from grocery stores or Wally World in little 8 oz bottles, too.

Edit #2.  Make washes from Pledge floor finish.

Skip ahead to the 7 minute mark:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gmDd59v8pY

I like washes thin.   You can always apply a second, or even third coat.  If you get it on too heavy, even after it dries,
wipe with a swab dampened in isopropyl alcohol and do over.  But this technique is hard to mess up.

If you guys need the original Floquil Railroad
Colors, check out Archive X paints. Spot on reproductions of the old Floquil paints, in enamel.

He’s on Facebook..search Archive X.

The Star Wars nerds such as myself use these paints, as that’s what the effects guys at ILM used to paint the studio miniatures for the movies.

$16 a bottle not including intl shipping. No thanks

Thank you, but very pricey.

Yep, Archive X isn’t cheap, but it’s an exact match for the old Floquil RR colors.

I’m not affiliated in any way to them, just giving you the information. Do with it what you choose.

Here's the critical question... is the pigment the same, that is, very, very fine, and one coat
coverage even with a thin coat, like Floquil?  Getting the color right is only part of what made
Floquil so good.  If it paints like Floquil, it's worth whatever it costs.

Another video on making washes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gR3aIAth5qU

Future is also used to really clean up clear plastic canopies on model aircraft.  Just dip it in the Future, set aside
and let it dry.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQH8m1ZW14s

I got some AK real color paint in today.
Did a 50/50 mix with their thinner and it airbrushed beautifully.
Have some Mr. Paint I will try also. No thinning required.

Im liking lacquer based stuff for airbrush as dry tip is not really a concern.