About to start fixing up a 72 chevy C10 (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 5/28/2018 8:11:28 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FALARAK][Edited]
Sorry about the mayonnaise, guys.
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I love 67-72 Chevy trucks! Would love to have a 4wd myself but finding one that’s not completely junk has been hard.
PS I love that year model king ranch as well!! Really wanted to buy one several times but those Tritons scare the shit out of me. |
Thanks slims_88!!
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Originally Posted By Countryboycarter87:
PS I love that year model king ranch as well!! Really wanted to buy one several times but those Tritons scare the shit out of me. I love my F150 KR. |
Sorry about the mayonnaise, guys.
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That truck is worth some decent money as it is. I would steer your buddy to just keep it running and driving, with maybe a better engine and running gear done right and other useful upgrades as you go like suspension and brakes. We have all been guilty of getting a new old classic vehicle and immediately tearing it apart never to finish right so for that reason I would steer clear of "hot rod" option and the frame off unless your buddy has a decent budget and skills. |
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Originally Posted By Jerret_S:
That truck is worth some decent money as it is. I would steer your buddy to just keep it running and driving, with maybe a better engine and running gear done right and other useful upgrades as you go like suspension and brakes. We have all been guilty of getting a new old classic vehicle and immediately tearing it apart never to finish right so for that reason I would steer clear of "hot rod" option and the frame off unless your buddy has a decent budget and skills. If he does a frame off, it would be a professional doing it.... he has some friends who do this work for a living. He won't touch anything mechanical/automotive unless I am there. ![]() After we re-do all the brakes.... I am recommending he do things that likely need to be done regardless of which direction he goes.... like having the carb professionally gone through (quadrajet), getting the AC working, recovering his bench seat, and go through all the other fluids, like power steering, transmission, rear end. Have a look at the condition of the tie rods and ball joints as well. Considering all new stainless brake lines, stainless fuel lines, and maybe even proactively replacing the fuel tank. Basically focusing on anything that can/will break from an age/reliability perspective. Question - why is moving the fuel tank from behind the seat to under the bed such a popular mod for these trucks? |
Sorry about the mayonnaise, guys.
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That truck is 1 in a million condition!
Should be a fun project. I vote to leave it stock for the most part. Tell your friend if he lowers it, I will hunt him down.
"Question - why is moving the fuel tank from behind the seat to under the bed such a popular mod for these trucks?' Besides the sound of gas sloshing around, I removed one on a 1970 F-100 and installed one of those J.C. Whitney storage things. Complete with rifle scabbard and pockets for a lot of useful stuff. Storage in a standard cab is already minimal before you mount a gas tank behind the seat. It was a no-brainer as it had a factory mounted second tank already. |
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My dad is in the final stages on a 1969 GMC step side. Was my great grandfathers truck and he bought it new in 69.
67-72 GM trucks hold a special place for me. |
Every normal man, at times, must be tempted to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats.
| I used to own a 71. The good news is that a bunch of random stuff used to be available from GM. For instance I bought the new inside section of the glove box and it was reasonable priced. |
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Originally Posted By FALARAK: Thanks for the feedback. Good advice. If he does a frame off, it would be a professional doing it.... he has some friends who do this work for a living. He won't touch anything mechanical/automotive unless I am there. ![]() After we re-do all the brakes.... I am recommending he do things that likely need to be done regardless of which direction he goes.... like having the carb professionally gone through (quadrajet), getting the AC working, recovering his bench seat, and go through all the other fluids, like power steering, transmission, rear end. Have a look at the condition of the tie rods and ball joints as well. Considering all new stainless brake lines, stainless fuel lines, and maybe even proactively replacing the fuel tank. Basically focusing on anything that can/will break from an age/reliability perspective. Question - why is moving the fuel tank from behind the seat to under the bed such a popular mod for these trucks? NBC News Ginned up a lot of concern over GM Pick up Fuel Tanks - they used pyrotechics (Rocket Engines) to set afire gas tanks in simulated collissions for the 1973-1987 GM pick ups. Those tanks were mounted outside the cab... NY Times - nbc settles truck crash lawsuit saying test was "inappropriate" NBC Settles GM Pick Up Fuel Tank Scandal - Rigged with Rockets! But don't forget, we can TRUST THE MEDIA to ALWAYS tell us THE TRUTH!! |
LIFE'S JOURNEY IS NOT TO ARRIVE AT THE GRAVE SAFELY IN A WELL PRESERVED BODY,
BUT RATHER TO SKID IN SIDEWAYS, TOTALLY WORN OUT SHOUTING "HOLY $H!T...WHAT A RIDE"!!
BUT RATHER TO SKID IN SIDEWAYS, TOTALLY WORN OUT SHOUTING "HOLY $H!T...WHAT A RIDE"!!
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If I could give ONE word of advice - Don't Upgrade or Monkey with that truck.
It is worth SO much more "Stock" & factory than "Upgrayedd". Feel free to use more modern Fluids, Freon, spark plugs, tires, brake pads , ect... But keep it stock and it will be a real Classic! |
LIFE'S JOURNEY IS NOT TO ARRIVE AT THE GRAVE SAFELY IN A WELL PRESERVED BODY,
BUT RATHER TO SKID IN SIDEWAYS, TOTALLY WORN OUT SHOUTING "HOLY $H!T...WHAT A RIDE"!!
BUT RATHER TO SKID IN SIDEWAYS, TOTALLY WORN OUT SHOUTING "HOLY $H!T...WHAT A RIDE"!!
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Lol that’s the part that scared me and why I didn’t. I haven’t had to spend a single dime on my Chevrolet engines since 2010 that I’ve had ranging from years 2001-2009.
Have had another issues but mostly small and not super expensive. That being said I love those trucks. Wish I could find one already done. |
Thanks slims_88!!
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Swap in a low mileage 5.3L or 6.0L with a 4L60E transmission from a 2WD. get front disc brakes, put bilsteins all the way around and you'll have a badass ride that is basically a NEW truck.
Do stuff to update it to it on par with trucks built in the last 20 years. That's the correct way to do it. |
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Originally Posted By whiskerz:
I used to own a 71. The good news is that a bunch of random stuff used to be available from GM. For instance I bought the new inside section of the glove box and it was reasonable priced. Not to thread jack this - but does anyone know the website for the old GM parts? GM has an "official" website that carries their obsolete old parts. I bought some new armrests for my 1994 (dealer swore they were unobtainable) off the GM website, but it's been a long while since so I'm trying to find it again. Any help? |
LIFE'S JOURNEY IS NOT TO ARRIVE AT THE GRAVE SAFELY IN A WELL PRESERVED BODY,
BUT RATHER TO SKID IN SIDEWAYS, TOTALLY WORN OUT SHOUTING "HOLY $H!T...WHAT A RIDE"!!
BUT RATHER TO SKID IN SIDEWAYS, TOTALLY WORN OUT SHOUTING "HOLY $H!T...WHAT A RIDE"!!
Let me put my meat on your grill.
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Originally Posted By Bigger_Hammer:
@whiskerz Not to thread jack this - but does anyone know the website for the old GM parts? GM has an "official" website that carries their obsolete old parts. I bought some new armrests for my 1994 (dealer swore they were unobtainable) off the GM website, but it's been a long while since so I'm trying to find it again. Any help? LMC |
Let me put my meat on your grill.
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Originally Posted By Bigger_Hammer:
If I could give ONE word of advice - Don't Upgrade or Monkey with that truck. It is worth SO much more "Stock" & factory than "Upgrayedd". Feel free to use more modern Fluids, Freon, spark plugs, tires, brake pads , ect... But keep it stock and it will be a real Classic! |
Let me put my meat on your grill.
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Originally Posted By wildearp:
If you change the front end, take a good look at the Fatman. They also have a universal rear 4-bar that works great and is cheaper than most of the stuff out there on the market. I am finishing my third C/K-10/blazer/truck. Here are two of them: http://i.imgur.com/8MzbNul.jpg [url](https://i.imgur.com/wu6T0Y9.jpg) |
Sorry about the mayonnaise, guys.
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Originally Posted By Bigger_Hammer:
@whiskerz Not to thread jack this - but does anyone know the website for the old GM parts? GM has an "official" website that carries their obsolete old parts. I bought some new armrests for my 1994 (dealer swore they were unobtainable) off the GM website, but it's been a long while since so I'm trying to find it again. Any help? As posted above LMC and the dealer are it. You may have to cultivate a local parts department guy. Some will run stuff for you on the locator and find you some obscure parts. |
RIP Jeff Reed. Tennessee Squire, Ga. Carry member, NRA Life member
Non-puking 72 ounce drinker 2 of 6 Norcal call sign, Forgotten.
Non-puking 72 ounce drinker 2 of 6 Norcal call sign, Forgotten.
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Question for you guys....
Say, you buy new rotor/hub assemblies (AC Delco). They come with new bearing races installed. I will also be installing new inner and outer bearings, and seals (Timken). Would you knock out the new bearing races that are already in the rotors, and reinstall the timken races, or would you just use the new races already installed in the rotors? This thread seems to think its A-ok.... https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1664377 |
Sorry about the mayonnaise, guys.
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Attached File My favorite year. Is that a leaf spring truck or coil spring? |
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Originally Posted By kentucky_smith:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/92324/13592575_1004706212982256_8700755484735055874_n-560313.JPG My favorite year. Is that a leaf spring truck or coil spring? Yours is a beauty. Is that pretty much original? |
Sorry about the mayonnaise, guys.
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Originally Posted By FALARAK:
Question for you guys.... Say, you buy new rotor/hub assemblies (AC Delco). They come with new bearing races installed. I will also be installing new inner and outer bearings, and seals (Timken). Would you knock out the new bearing races that are already in the rotors, and reinstall the timken races, or would you just use the new races already installed in the rotors? This thread seems to think its A-ok.... https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1664377 |
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Originally Posted By FALARAK: Coil/trailing arms. Yours is a beauty. Is that pretty much original?
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Best looking trucks ever made IMO. Your friend is very lucky. I will have one some day along with a 2wd 70-72 Bazer. My buddy has one that he bought back in 93 or so, drove it around the block, stripped it and put the frame and cab in a rotisserie, ordered all new parts and it’s been sitting ever since. Been trying to get him to let me make a deal with him but he won’t go for it yet. |
Behold a pale horse: and his name that sat on him was Death, and Hell followed with him.
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Nice truck. I wouldn't go too crazy modding it, there aren't too many unmolested originals left. If it still has a points distributor, put a Pertronix kit in it and keep the small distributor and coil. It'll still look stock but run a hell of a lot more reliably. |
Women and children can afford to be careless, but not men.
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Originally Posted By rxdawg:
Nice truck. I wouldn't go too crazy modding it, there aren't too many unmolested originals left. If it still has a points distributor, put a Pertronix kit in it and keep the small distributor and coil. It'll still look stock but run a hell of a lot more reliably. |
Sorry about the mayonnaise, guys.
Absence of proof is not proof of absence.
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Sorry about the mayonnaise, guys.
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Originally Posted By wildearp:
If you change the front end, take a good look at the Fatman. They also have a universal rear 4-bar that works great and is cheaper than most of the stuff out there on the market. I am finishing my third C/K-10/blazer/truck. Here are two of them: http://i.imgur.com/8MzbNul.jpg https://i.imgur.com/wu6T0Y9.jpg I welded up those mirror holes before painting the Blazer. You can see I like the 72 bumper. Pictured are a 71 and a 70 in that order.
I owned a 72 Jimmy 4x4..and would love to have one again. That thing was the roughest riding, noisiest rig I've ever owned and I loved it. |
Originally Posted By Knightzone:
I've got an inch a half guard rail nut on a length of 550 cord. it's not whiz-bang tactical, but one smack in the grape and it's coloring books for christmas.
I've got an inch a half guard rail nut on a length of 550 cord. it's not whiz-bang tactical, but one smack in the grape and it's coloring books for christmas.
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Originally Posted By FALARAK:
I found your thread on http://67-72chevytrucks.com/ Originally Posted By FALARAK:
Originally Posted By wildearp:
If you change the front end, take a good look at the Fatman. They also have a universal rear 4-bar that works great and is cheaper than most of the stuff out there on the market. I am finishing my third C/K-10/blazer/truck. Here are two of them: http://i.imgur.com/8MzbNul.jpg [url](https://i.imgur.com/wu6T0Y9.jpg) |
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Originally Posted By whiskerz:
As posted above LMC and the dealer are it. You may have to cultivate a local parts department guy. Some will run stuff for you on the locator and find you some obscure parts. Originally Posted By whiskerz:
Originally Posted By Bigger_Hammer: @whiskerz Not to thread jack this - but does anyone know the website for the old GM parts? GM has an "official" website that carries their obsolete old parts. I bought some new armrests for my 1994 (dealer swore they were unobtainable) off the GM website, but it's been a long while since so I'm trying to find it again. Any help? |
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Originally Posted By Jerret_S:
Looks like that truck could use a good undercarriage cleaning, I cant even see the upper ball joint under all that mud. Did you get a chance to drive it yet ? Next up on the list are to clean the crap out of the undercarriage, then attack a fuel leak we noticed while doing the brakes. My buddy has driven it around his neighborhood, and we test drove it after the brake job, but I told him to wait to drive it anymore until the fuel leak is handled. My guess is rotten rubber hoses at the joints between the hard lines.... but the whole underside is wet with oil and fuel so it is hard to tell. What are the common leak points for oil on a small block chevy? I assume valve covers, oil pan, and rear main seal? Other places I should look? |
Sorry about the mayonnaise, guys.
| So - seal technology has come a LONG way since the days of cork and RTV. Are there updated seals for the pan, valve covers, and intakes, that use metal base material with rubber coating, that makes them seal so much better and be reusable? |
Sorry about the mayonnaise, guys.
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Here's something I built for a friends 72.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=561524 |
24/365's Gadget
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Originally Posted By FALARAK:
So - seal technology has come a LONG way since the days of cork and RTV. Are there updated seals for the pan, valve covers, and intakes, that use metal base material with rubber coating, that makes them seal so much better and be reusable? |
24/365's Gadget
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Originally Posted By FALARAK:
The carb was junk. Been sitting up too long, and was a UREMCO rebuild in 2007. It was trashed. Sent it off to a master, for a rebuild, replate, and bushing job. Going to install it today. https://i.postimg.cc/yYpNv6y9/1.jpg |
Absence of proof is not proof of absence.
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Originally Posted By Bigger_Hammer: If I could give ONE word of advice - Don't Upgrade or Monkey with that truck. It is worth SO much more "Stock" & factory than "Upgrayedd". Feel free to use more modern Fluids, Freon, spark plugs, tires, brake pads , ect... But keep it stock and it will be a real Classic! Boring. A stock vintage truck is no fun to drive or look at. They ride "like a truck" and handle like shit. Clean it up and replace the wear items (brake system, all fluids, tires, etc), redo the interior as closely as possible to stock (but with higher quality materials whenever possible), and spend some money on a proper lowered suspension setup with larger diameter wheels and lower profile tires. Place the original takeoffs in a plastic tote and shove them in a corner somewhere for the next owner. Then, depending on how often he intends to drive it, start looking into fuel injection kits and aftermarket air conditioning, if it's not already equipped. |



















Could not install the new brake hose on that caliper, and had to put the old one back on, which was disappointing. We will have to replace the brake line with a correct one in order to address the issue and get the new hose on that size.


