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Posted: 11/29/2020 3:44:49 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So, electric saws are so strong they won’t bind in a tree? I need me some of those. It is the binding of the teeth with the Kevlar strands that stops the blade. Learn whereof you speak. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Get chaps, battery chainsaws cut through chaps, don't get a battery chainsaw as a greenhorn What is so magical about an electric saw that it will cut through chaps? Chaps clog the teeth and bind the saw. They work for both. You shouldn't speak with authority on subjects you know nothing about. Especially dangerous and potentially deadly stuff. So, electric saws are so strong they won’t bind in a tree? I need me some of those. It is the binding of the teeth with the Kevlar strands that stops the blade. Learn whereof you speak. You really should educate yourself before your ignorance gets someone else hurt. 
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Posted: 11/29/2020 3:47:59 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Small? My Echo CS-2511T. Lightest gas saw in US. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/319389/B76C0CF6-6A07-4BB5-9ED8-11FEAD348506_jpe-1706970.JPG Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I'm looking for a mini chainsaw for some work in front of my house. The work I will do is small. My goal is to get things done faster. I'm not very good with chainsaws. From now on I'll have to look at how to use them. Does anyone have any information on the subject? Note: It would be much better if you throw away the pictures of your mini chainsaw. Thank you. Small? My Echo CS-2511T. Lightest gas saw in US. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/319389/B76C0CF6-6A07-4BB5-9ED8-11FEAD348506_jpe-1706970.JPG Top handles are alittle risky for newbs and teach bad methods. That being said i learned on a top handle but they are usually stupid expensive. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 3:49:24 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @AKengineer These 12" and the 9" work great on wet and dry wood in my experience. Plunging it into the dirt and working around the tree for roots worked really well. Interesting though, a sturdy metal-cutting blade worked about as well on roots, didn't bring as much dirt into the cut. https://www.amazon.com/12-Inch-Pruning-Reciprocating-Sawzall-Blades/dp/B075J7LF4Z https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/17882/Blade_1_81uD5ca1w2L__AC_SL1500__jpg-1707055.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/17882/Blade_2_91ZlphA3pqL__AC_SL1500__jpg-1707056.JPG not my photos We have a Ridgid battery powered saw and an old corded Milwaukee Sawzall with Hi/Lo speed selection. On the dry stuff either is fine. On wet stuff the Lo speed of the Milwaukee keeps the blade from gumming up with sap. Looks like many others replied as well Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Think about a reciprocating saw like a sawsall. Many battery powered options are out there, or corded if you want run time and don't want to mess with batteries. . Paired with very good arborist blades it will do what you want, and could be more versatile than a chainsaw. We just used a sawsall to take down an 8" diameter fruit tree, and cut the roots to pull the stump. I wouldn't run my chainsaw in the dirt for the roots, so we used the sawsall for everything.. Good luck in your search. @VHLNSK What saw and blade combination are you using to cut down 8" trees? I would love something I can toss in a side by side without getting a chainsaw and supporting gear together. @AKengineer These 12" and the 9" work great on wet and dry wood in my experience. Plunging it into the dirt and working around the tree for roots worked really well. Interesting though, a sturdy metal-cutting blade worked about as well on roots, didn't bring as much dirt into the cut. https://www.amazon.com/12-Inch-Pruning-Reciprocating-Sawzall-Blades/dp/B075J7LF4Z https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/17882/Blade_1_81uD5ca1w2L__AC_SL1500__jpg-1707055.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/17882/Blade_2_91ZlphA3pqL__AC_SL1500__jpg-1707056.JPG not my photos We have a Ridgid battery powered saw and an old corded Milwaukee Sawzall with Hi/Lo speed selection. On the dry stuff either is fine. On wet stuff the Lo speed of the Milwaukee keeps the blade from gumming up with sap. Looks like many others replied as well I use this set up to get my christmas tree. It works if OPs use is very limited. I still prefer to breakout the chainsaw, even for cutting fence posts and 4x4s. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 3:52:31 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You really should educate yourself before your ignorance gets someone else hurt. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Get chaps, battery chainsaws cut through chaps, don't get a battery chainsaw as a greenhorn What is so magical about an electric saw that it will cut through chaps? Chaps clog the teeth and bind the saw. They work for both. You shouldn't speak with authority on subjects you know nothing about. Especially dangerous and potentially deadly stuff. So, electric saws are so strong they won’t bind in a tree? I need me some of those. It is the binding of the teeth with the Kevlar strands that stops the blade. Learn whereof you speak. You really should educate yourself before your ignorance gets someone else hurt. From what i have been told the gas/electric vs chaps is explain something like this (I'm no expert but have seen videos of electric tearing through chaps and electric being stopped temperarily) Gas engines pulse, hence the womp womp even when running a saw a full throttle,giving the fibers time to catch and stall the engine. Electric is more of a constant speed with no pulse and no engine to stall. Thus the electric saw can defeat chaps, not something I would want to risk. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 3:52:53 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 3120 is a good around-the-house saw your wife can use too. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96007/85AE356F-32A9-4D5C-B695-100C1F782EFC_jpe-1707053.JPG Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Stihl 880 or it's your funeral. This or a Husqvarna 3120. Think of your family, OP. 3120 is a good around-the-house saw your wife can use too. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96007/85AE356F-32A9-4D5C-B695-100C1F782EFC_jpe-1707053.JPG Lol. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 4:35:56 PM EDT
[#6]
This thread is sad... got a guy who’s starts a thread about chainsaws Who never ran one in his life, and sounds terrified, followed but a bunch of other guys arguing about chaps and safety gear.. good god what happened to all the Men in this country..
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Posted: 11/29/2020 4:38:01 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: From what i have been told the gas/electric vs chaps is explain something like this (I'm no expert but have seen videos of electric tearing through chaps and electric being stopped temperarily) Gas engines pulse, hence the womp womp even when running a saw a full throttle,giving the fibers time to catch and stall the engine. Electric is more of a constant speed with no pulse and no engine to stall. Thus the electric saw can defeat chaps, not something I would want to risk. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Get chaps, battery chainsaws cut through chaps, don't get a battery chainsaw as a greenhorn What is so magical about an electric saw that it will cut through chaps? Chaps clog the teeth and bind the saw. They work for both. You shouldn't speak with authority on subjects you know nothing about. Especially dangerous and potentially deadly stuff. So, electric saws are so strong they won’t bind in a tree? I need me some of those. It is the binding of the teeth with the Kevlar strands that stops the blade. Learn whereof you speak. You really should educate yourself before your ignorance gets someone else hurt. From what i have been told the gas/electric vs chaps is explain something like this (I'm no expert but have seen videos of electric tearing through chaps and electric being stopped temperarily) Gas engines pulse, hence the womp womp even when running a saw a full throttle,giving the fibers time to catch and stall the engine. Electric is more of a constant speed with no pulse and no engine to stall. Thus the electric saw can defeat chaps, not something I would want to risk. Torque. One thing I've noticed on videos where they test chaps against electric/battery saws is that even though the chaps still offer considerable protection and definitely slow the saw down, they almost always seem to cut all the way through the bottom layer. The through cuts aren't very large, and there doesn't seem to be much (if any) damage to the surface underneath, but they are still able to penetrate all the way through the chaps. I imagine a leg wouldn't fare quite as well as their test logs do. I'd like to see a test done with actual flesh underneath the chaps, like one of Paul Harrell's meat targets!  Chaps should be worn when using any chainsaw, gas or electric, but electric saw users should be aware of the additional risk. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 4:51:08 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This thread is sad... got a guy who’s starts a thread about chainsaws Who never ran one in his life, and sounds terrified, followed but a bunch of other guys arguing about chaps and safety gear.. good god what happened to all the Men in this country.. Are you also against wearing safety glasses when shooting, or wearing seatbelts when driving?  Chainsaws are extremely unforgiving, and mistakes can happen in an instant. Why would you choose not to wear protective gear that could potentially save your life? That isn't being "Manly", that's just plain stupid.  Have you ever seen a chainsaw wound in person? I have.
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Posted: 11/29/2020 5:24:16 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Are you also against wearing safety glasses when shooting, or wearing seatbelts when driving? Chainsaws are extremely unforgiving, and mistakes can happen in an instant. Why would you choose not to wear protective gear that could potentially save your life? That isn't being "Manly", that's just plain stupid. Have you ever seen a chainsaw wound in person? I have. Life is dangerous... don’t be an idiot, and don’t get complacent.. I’ve worked around chainsaws, Demo saws, concrete chainsaws, rock drills you name it.. I’ve seen some horrific shit, and work around shit daily that could end my life in a second... but I don’t walk around scared of every little “what if” Yes chainsaws are dangerous, but they are only as dangerous as you let them be... some of you guys act like they have a mind of their own and enjoy the taste of human flesh.. when in reality they are just as dangerous as any other spinning or rotating equipment... Think of the bar as a muzzle.. don’t put anything in it’s path your not willing to cut.. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 5:30:03 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Stihl MS 180 Love mine, and can do just about anything with that little bastard. Done some serious work with that thing. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 5:41:07 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Life is dangerous... don’t be an idiot, and don’t get complacent.. I’ve worked around chainsaws, Demo saws, concrete chainsaws, rock drills you name it.. I’ve seen some horrific shit, and work around shit daily that could end my life in a second... but I don’t walk around scared of every little “what if” Yes chainsaws are dangerous, but they are only as dangerous as you let them be... some of you guys act like they have a mind of their own and enjoy the taste of human flesh.. when in reality they are just as dangerous as any other spinning or rotating equipment... Think of the bar as a muzzle.. don’t put anything in it’s path your not willing to cut.. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Are you also against wearing safety glasses when shooting, or wearing seatbelts when driving? Chainsaws are extremely unforgiving, and mistakes can happen in an instant. Why would you choose not to wear protective gear that could potentially save your life? That isn't being "Manly", that's just plain stupid. Have you ever seen a chainsaw wound in person? I have. Life is dangerous... don’t be an idiot, and don’t get complacent.. I’ve worked around chainsaws, Demo saws, concrete chainsaws, rock drills you name it.. I’ve seen some horrific shit, and work around shit daily that could end my life in a second... but I don’t walk around scared of every little “what if” Yes chainsaws are dangerous, but they are only as dangerous as you let them be... some of you guys act like they have a mind of their own and enjoy the taste of human flesh.. when in reality they are just as dangerous as any other spinning or rotating equipment... Think of the bar as a muzzle.. don’t put anything in it’s path your not willing to cut.. There is a reason chaps are required by most tree outfits. Your argument is akin to "stop being a pussy" or guys that hunt without orange on because nothing bad could possibly happen to them. I agree you should be properly trained on the equipment you are running, and I've also run a saw plenty of times without chaps, but just like any other piece of equipment, PPE should be included when budgeting to buy it. Calling someone less of a man because they choose to use PPE designed for a task is a shitty thing to do. Would you call an iron worker that ties off with fall protection less of a man because lots of guys used to walk beams without the stuff? Some people like to mitigate risk as much as possible to increase their odds of seeing their family every night, if anything that is far more manly than potentially dying or becoming disabled and becoming useless to your family because of something as trivial as safety. |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 8:18:57 PM EDT
[#12]
For random house tasks just get a yard blade for a reciprocating saw for small stuff. No chains to wear out or sharpen, just replace the blade. One less tool to store.
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Posted: 11/29/2020 9:26:33 PM EDT
[#13]
Here’s a good deal on a small battery saw if you’ve already got 20V DeWalt tools.
12 in. 20V MAX Lithium-Ion Cordless Brushless Chainsaw (Tool Only) https://www.homedepot.com/p/303654387 |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 11:53:45 PM EDT
[#14]
OP has 5 whole posts and is probably never coming back to read any of these replies.
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Posted: 11/30/2020 12:07:26 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: IC engines generate maximum torque high up in the rpm range. Electric motors generate maximum torque at stall. As the chain binds, the engine gets “weaker” and the motor gets “stronger”. That’s the theory, anyway. I took a forest service chainsaw safety class a couple of months ago. They said that there are not chaps rated for electric chainsaws. |
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Posted: 11/30/2020 12:18:10 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: For random house tasks just get a yard blade for a reciprocating saw for small stuff. No chains to wear out or sharpen, just replace the blade. One less tool to store. www.amazon.com/dp/B000FAPPAA I have these for my cordless 36v makita. They are amazing. Anything under 4 inches or so and the chain saws stay in the shed. |
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Posted: 11/30/2020 7:40:48 AM EDT
[#17]
Learn about kickback and how to prevent it. Treat the bar of the chainsaw possible kickback arc of travel the same way you do with muzzle discipline. Stay vigilant at all times. Learn to avoid using the nose/ tip of the chainsaw unless needed. The nose and closer you go to it increases kickback. Keep your chain very sharp. Avoid cutting the dirt, rocks, metal in trees such as nails. Metal in trees is hard to avoid if small. Use safety chaps. Be a badass and don’t wear them if you want but if you cut your femoral artery which is in the direct line of how someone holds a chainsaw, between the legs, often across the lower left leg area if someone is complacent, you risk that. If you cut your femoral artery and if Jesus himself was there to save the artery spray the most that can be done is hold your hand because nothing will stop or short of maybe an instantaneous tourniquet, if your lucky. A helmet is good to catch the chainsaw in the event of an extreme kickback accident. Learn the physics of cutting sideways and top of bar, bottom
Of bar reaction to kickback and the forces exerted by the chain spinning. Stay always predictive and ahead of what will happen next. |
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Posted: 11/30/2020 7:43:03 AM EDT
[#18]
Accidentally posted twice
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Posted: 11/30/2020 8:18:34 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Think about a reciprocating saw like a sawsall. Many battery powered options are out there, or corded if you want run time and don't want to mess with batteries. . Paired with very good arborist blades it will do what you want, and could be more versatile than a chainsaw. We just used a sawsall to take down an 8" diameter fruit tree, and cut the roots to pull the stump. I wouldn't run my chainsaw in the dirt for the roots, so we used the sawsall for everything.. Good luck in your search. |
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Posted: 11/30/2020 8:28:47 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 3120 is a good around-the-house saw your wife can use too. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96007/85AE356F-32A9-4D5C-B695-100C1F782EFC_jpe-1707053.JPG Showing this picture to the two guys I work with. Theyre still going on about hanging that saw on the display wall and how heavy it was. Side note: A twenty-something came in with his week old 3120 (not purchased thru us). He was disappointed to spend that kind of money and not have a saw that would spin up like say a 390. You could see the disappointment on his face as our owner explained how the limiter worked on those saws. Expensive lesson about doing your research. The loggers that have them seem happy tho. |
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Posted: 11/30/2020 9:04:18 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Showing this picture to the two guys I work with. Theyre still going on about hanging that saw on the display wall and how heavy it was. Side note: A twenty-something came in with his week old 3120 (not purchased thru us). He was disappointed to spend that kind of money and not have a saw that would spin up like say a 390. You could see the disappointment on his face as our owner explained how the limiter worked on those saws. Expensive lesson about doing your research. The loggers that have them seem happy tho. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: 3120 is a good around-the-house saw your wife can use too. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96007/85AE356F-32A9-4D5C-B695-100C1F782EFC_jpe-1707053.JPG Showing this picture to the two guys I work with. Theyre still going on about hanging that saw on the display wall and how heavy it was. Side note: A twenty-something came in with his week old 3120 (not purchased thru us). He was disappointed to spend that kind of money and not have a saw that would spin up like say a 390. You could see the disappointment on his face as our owner explained how the limiter worked on those saws. Expensive lesson about doing your research. The loggers that have them seem happy tho. Big saws are a mistake unless you are in big wood, or have them geared to the moon. The 3120 and its ilk are for 48”+ bars. Any wood smaller than 30” a 70 or 90cc saw will be a much faster choice. |
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Posted: 11/30/2020 9:33:22 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Big saws are a mistake unless you are in big wood, or have them geared to the moon. The 3120 and its ilk are for 48”+ bars. Any wood smaller than 30” a 70 or 90cc saw will be a much faster choice. Yep, 48". I've not seen anyone ask to gear a 3120. You just stick it in a tree and hold on until it's finished. We've sold 3 this year at the Husqvarna dealership I work at. Those crews dig 'em. That said, a hot running 390, 395 or 572 is the typical "logger" saw in our neck of the woods, on the Husq side anyway. That said, Stihl makes some pretty sweet saws as well. 3120 has more displacement than my Road King |
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Posted: 11/30/2020 9:41:58 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yep, 48". I've not seen anyone ask to gear a 3120. You just stick it in a tree and hold on until it's finished. We've sold 3 this year at the Husqvarna dealership I work at. Those crews dig 'em. That said, a hot running 390, 395 or 572 is the typical "logger" saw in our neck of the woods, on the Husq side anyway. That said, Stihl makes some pretty sweet saws as well. 3120 has more displacement than my Road King Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Big saws are a mistake unless you are in big wood, or have them geared to the moon. The 3120 and its ilk are for 48”+ bars. Any wood smaller than 30” a 70 or 90cc saw will be a much faster choice. Yep, 48". I've not seen anyone ask to gear a 3120. You just stick it in a tree and hold on until it's finished. We've sold 3 this year at the Husqvarna dealership I work at. Those crews dig 'em. That said, a hot running 390, 395 or 572 is the typical "logger" saw in our neck of the woods, on the Husq side anyway. That said, Stihl makes some pretty sweet saws as well. 3120 has more displacement than my Road King I think you might be confusing cc's and ci's I know Harley's are slow, but they gotta have more horsepower than 8
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Posted: 11/30/2020 1:04:26 PM EDT
[#24]
Thank you for all the comments you posted. I'm considering an Oregon brand chainsaw to get things done. What do you think of the Oregon chainsaw?
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Posted: 11/30/2020 1:08:32 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thank you for all the comments you posted. I'm considering an Oregon brand chainsaw to get things done. What do you think of the Oregon chainsaw? The Oregon battery saw, with the biggest battery option (6.2 I think?) is a bad mofo. It is very much the real deal. Only downside to Oregon is the price (higher, because better quality than the “pro-sumer” grade stuff) and you’re unlikely to have any other stuff that uses Oregon batteries. Thinking about getting an Oregon bar and chain for my Kobalt (Lowe’s brand) saw. |
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Posted: 11/30/2020 1:57:13 PM EDT
[#26]
Electronic chainsaws are nice home defense tools too. What intruder is gonna hear or expect a battery powered chainsaw to the face ?? Huh??? Not many I tell ya.
 Make sure you wear your ppe even then. Safety is no laughing matter. |
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Posted: 11/30/2020 2:35:46 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Showing this picture to the two guys I work with. Theyre still going on about hanging that saw on the display wall and how heavy it was. Side note: A twenty-something came in with his week old 3120 (not purchased thru us). He was disappointed to spend that kind of money and not have a saw that would spin up like say a 390. You could see the disappointment on his face as our owner explained how the limiter worked on those saws. Expensive lesson about doing your research. The loggers that have them seem happy tho. I got it solely for using with an Alaskan mill. I wanted something that would run the big bars if need be. I have a 390 and milling with the 36" bar was about as much as I would want to push it. The 3120 should be able to run the 36" without breaking a sweat and still do fine with the 60" if I run across something that needs it. Normally I couldn't justify it, but I got a good price from a guy out of Canada and was able to pretty much pay for it by selling 2 cases of 9mm |
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Posted: 12/2/2020 1:00:17 PM EDT
[#28]
I'm thinking of buying Husqvarna 440 tomorrow with the recommendation of a friend. Thank you for all the comments.
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Posted: 12/2/2020 2:14:33 PM EDT
[#29]
That's a good choice. Resist the urge to over-bar it with the 18" that the big box places like to do as a selling feature. A 40cc saw will perform a lot better with a 16" or even better with a 14".
And if you don't have somebody to help you get started, watch all the videos you can. Be safe, and remember the most important wood you've got requires blood flow. |
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Posted: 12/2/2020 9:24:31 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Is your 250 a real bitch to start? Cause mine is, brand new. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I have an 18" Stihl 250, my dad has a Stihl 290 or something 20", a battery Stihl MS140 and a nice Echo pole saw. The battery one gets used more than anything else around the houses and does great. Is your 250 a real bitch to start? Cause mine is, brand new. @TxSodbuster Nope the opposite, it's a 2016 model if I remember right, bought it new, still fires up after one or two pulls. I don't know if the saw shop guy was full of it or not but they had 2017 models on the floor and he told me to buy the 2016 because some new EPA or CARB compliant regs for 2017 changed something or whatever. I have no idea if that is true or not and might have the exact years wrong. Either way it was $40 cheaper than the newer model year. |
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Posted: 12/2/2020 10:00:28 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @TxSodbuster Nope the opposite, it's a 2016 model if I remember right, bought it new, still fires up after one or two pulls. I don't know if the saw shop guy was full of it or not but they had 2017 models on the floor and he told me to buy the 2016 because some new EPA or CARB compliant regs for 2017 changed something or whatever. I have no idea if that is true or not and might have the exact years wrong. Either way it was $40 cheaper than the newer model year. That good news, sounds like you have a good one! I'm hoping it breaks in a little bit and maybe I'll get better at starting it. After being around old tractors, you learn that no two of them ever start the same way. I have been using Motor-Mix from Stihl as I use the saw infrequently. |
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Posted: 12/2/2020 10:11:49 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That good news, sounds like you have a good one! I'm hoping it breaks in a little bit and maybe I'll get better at starting it. After being around old tractors, you learn that no two of them ever start the same way. I have been using Motor-Mix from Stihl as I use the saw infrequently. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: @TxSodbuster Nope the opposite, it's a 2016 model if I remember right, bought it new, still fires up after one or two pulls. I don't know if the saw shop guy was full of it or not but they had 2017 models on the floor and he told me to buy the 2016 because some new EPA or CARB compliant regs for 2017 changed something or whatever. I have no idea if that is true or not and might have the exact years wrong. Either way it was $40 cheaper than the newer model year. That good news, sounds like you have a good one! I'm hoping it breaks in a little bit and maybe I'll get better at starting it. After being around old tractors, you learn that no two of them ever start the same way. I have been using Motor-Mix from Stihl as I use the saw infrequently. I've always just used Non-Ethanol gas (I'm in FL, it's readily available at many gas stations) and STIHL brand mix oil, just make a gallon at a time but also too lazy to drain the carb or run it out after every use, no problems in the last 3-4 years. |
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Posted: 12/2/2020 11:09:42 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I havent had any issues. I have cut everything from twigs to bucking stuff that needed to be cut from both sides to get through.. I have used bottom, top of the blade as well as plunge cut and this thing has chewed up anything I throw at it no problem. It's alittle monster and honestly my go to saw with how light it is. are you guys talking about a ms170 with a 12" bar? (Or a different model) |
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Posted: 12/2/2020 11:18:00 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yep, 48". I've not seen anyone ask to gear a 3120. You just stick it in a tree and hold on until it's finished. We've sold 3 this year at the Husqvarna dealership I work at. Those crews dig 'em. That said, a hot running 390, 395 or 572 is the typical "logger" saw in our neck of the woods, on the Husq side anyway. That said, Stihl makes some pretty sweet saws as well. 3120 has more displacement than my Road King Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Big saws are a mistake unless you are in big wood, or have them geared to the moon. The 3120 and its ilk are for 48”+ bars. Any wood smaller than 30” a 70 or 90cc saw will be a much faster choice. Yep, 48". I've not seen anyone ask to gear a 3120. You just stick it in a tree and hold on until it's finished. We've sold 3 this year at the Husqvarna dealership I work at. Those crews dig 'em. That said, a hot running 390, 395 or 572 is the typical "logger" saw in our neck of the woods, on the Husq side anyway. That said, Stihl makes some pretty sweet saws as well. 3120 has more displacement than my Road King Agree. I’ve got a 372 & a 394. The 394 is a fucking hoss in the big wood. |
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Posted: 12/2/2020 11:18:38 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @tbr1806 are you guys talking about a ms170 with a 12" bar? (Or a different model) Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I havent had any issues. I have cut everything from twigs to bucking stuff that needed to be cut from both sides to get through.. I have used bottom, top of the blade as well as plunge cut and this thing has chewed up anything I throw at it no problem. It's alittle monster and honestly my go to saw with how light it is. are you guys talking about a ms170 with a 12" bar? (Or a different model) @Rapidfire_85 Yes, MS170 w/ 12" bar |
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Posted: 12/2/2020 11:38:19 PM EDT
[#36]
Sweet, thanks!
Looking for a knock around saw for taking care of some land. just ordered chaps/helmet |
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Posted: 12/2/2020 11:54:17 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Is your 250 a real bitch to start? Cause mine is, brand new. The trick with stihl is to set the choke on full Pull till you hear the first pop of trying to start Kick the choke off Pull till it starts. |
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Posted: 12/3/2020 12:01:42 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I thought everyone knew that but apparently not. I didn’t, interesting. I think I’ll be a bit more careful with the electric saw now. |
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Posted: 12/3/2020 1:20:50 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Have a 025 and a ms290. The trick with stihl is to set the choke on full Pull till you hear the first pop of trying to start Kick the choke off Pull till it starts. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Is your 250 a real bitch to start? Cause mine is, brand new. The trick with stihl is to set the choke on full Pull till you hear the first pop of trying to start Kick the choke off Pull till it starts. That technique absolutely guarantees that my MS 361 will not start. On my saw, it’s compression release on, throttle latched, full choke, one pull only, half choke, pull it ‘til starts - usually not more than two more pulls. Then with speed of a striking black mamba, unlatch the throttle to kick the choke off and blip the throttle lightly a couple of times. At that point, the old girl is open for business. The minimal use of the choke on mine may be due to different climates. It’s very rare for me to be working in my woods when it’s less than forty degrees. |
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Posted: 12/3/2020 5:19:24 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Have a 025 and a ms290. The trick with stihl is to set the choke on full Pull till you hear the first pop of trying to start Kick the choke off Pull till it starts. That's the best way to do it regardless of brand. My Stihl, Dolmar and Echo all start great that way. |
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Posted: 12/3/2020 5:33:15 AM EDT
[#41]
For that use, just get a battery powered saw.
I own 8 acres of mostly woods and currently use a 40V 16” Greenworks saw for most of my uses. Works great for up to a 12” tree, and then cutting most of it up on a 4aH battery. Also have the polesaw and string trimmer from them and they’re great as well. |
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Posted: 12/3/2020 6:20:38 AM EDT
[#42]
https://www.worx.com/jawsaw-chainsaw-wg307.html
Here OP you said small stuff so this will work. Pretty darn hard to get hurt with this. They are very safe. My wife thought I might like one ( don't know why ) and she purchased one for me several years ago. I have 2 chainsaws , a couple of reciprocating saws, hand saws, etc, but she thought I would like one so she bought one. Anyway, it is about the safest thing you will find other than a hand saw and works well for small stuff. Easy to use and maintain. ETA: You can get corded or battery powered and an extension handle for more reach if you need it. |
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Posted: 12/3/2020 7:51:31 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That technique absolutely guarantees that my MS 361 will not start. On my saw, it’s compression release on, throttle latched, full choke, one pull only, half choke, pull it ‘til starts - usually not more than two more pulls. Then with speed of a striking black mamba, unlatch the throttle to kick the choke off and blip the throttle lightly a couple of times. At that point, the old girl is open for business. The minimal use of the choke on mine may be due to different climates. It’s very rare for me to be working in my woods when it’s less than forty degrees. You know somebody will be along shortly to call you a girly-girl for actually using the compression release, don't you? |
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Posted: 12/3/2020 8:14:00 AM EDT
[#44]
Use the compression release every time or never. Using it sometimes then not others can cause carb tuning issues and lead to a lot of extra work.
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Posted: 12/3/2020 8:37:05 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You know somebody will be along shortly to call you a girly-girl for actually using the compression release, don't you? Of course. But I don’t think Stihl builds saws with old women in mind, so apparently it’s a feature men find helpful too. |
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Posted: 12/3/2020 8:40:42 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Of course. But I don’t think Stihl builds saws with old women in mind, so apparently it’s a feature men find helpful too. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: You know somebody will be along shortly to call you a girly-girl for actually using the compression release, don't you? Of course. But I don’t think Stihl builds saws with old women in mind, so apparently it’s a feature men find helpful too. I use them, but I never have been too worried about people knowing I'm a pussy. Edit: Now somebody will come along to tell me to just get my husband to start the big saws for me. While I eat Ritz crackers and watch. |
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Posted: 12/3/2020 8:41:44 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You know somebody will be along shortly to call you a girly-girl for actually using the compression release, don't you? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: That technique absolutely guarantees that my MS 361 will not start. On my saw, it’s compression release on, throttle latched, full choke, one pull only, half choke, pull it ‘til starts - usually not more than two more pulls. Then with speed of a striking black mamba, unlatch the throttle to kick the choke off and blip the throttle lightly a couple of times. At that point, the old girl is open for business. The minimal use of the choke on mine may be due to different climates. It’s very rare for me to be working in my woods when it’s less than forty degrees. You know somebody will be along shortly to call you a girly-girl for actually using the compression release, don't you? A guy I used to work for would yank on demo saws like he was trying to kill them, because he refused to use the comp release. Then of course the saw was a piece of shit when the dogs in the recoil failed or the cord snapped for the 3rd time this month. It's not like starting a poulan chainsaw, those fuckers have some serious compression. I'll never understand refusing to use a feature that is meant to make operation of the equipment easier, some mental hurdle for some people must be. If I catch anyone yanking on my stuff without using the comp release I'll throw a rock at them, I don't like fixing my stuff more than I have to. |
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Posted: 12/3/2020 8:56:10 AM EDT
[#48]
I just reviewed the 10" 18v Ryobi. Would recommend for limbing or small tree work. Easy to use, cheap at $59, and uses regular 18v batteries.
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Posted: 12/3/2020 9:00:42 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted: A guy I used to work for would yank on demo saws like he was trying to kill them, because he refused to use the comp release. Then of course the saw was a piece of shit when the dogs in the recoil failed or the cord snapped for the 3rd time this month. It's not like starting a poulan chainsaw, those fuckers have some serious compression. I'll never understand refusing to use a feature that is meant to make operation of the equipment easier, some mental hurdle for some people must be. If I catch anyone yanking on my stuff without using the comp release I'll throw a rock at them, I don't like fixing my stuff more than I have to. Yeah, there is some kind of macho manly-man thing with some guys and starting saws. Never have understood the appeal of holding a 70cc saw by the handle at arm length like pointing a pistol and pulling on it. I'm content to watch those guys from a safe distance. |
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Posted: 12/3/2020 9:24:31 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You know somebody will be along shortly to call you a girly-girl for actually using the compression release, don't you? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: That technique absolutely guarantees that my MS 361 will not start. On my saw, it’s compression release on, throttle latched, full choke, one pull only, half choke, pull it ‘til starts - usually not more than two more pulls. Then with speed of a striking black mamba, unlatch the throttle to kick the choke off and blip the throttle lightly a couple of times. At that point, the old girl is open for business. The minimal use of the choke on mine may be due to different climates. It’s very rare for me to be working in my woods when it’s less than forty degrees. You know somebody will be along shortly to call you a girly-girl for actually using the compression release, don't you? Feels like I break my arm when my 460 pops and seals the compression release and I keep pulling. Fuck not using it |
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