87 Jimmy Project Moneypit (Page 1 of 3)
Posted: 4/21/2025 10:26:57 AM EDT
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Picked up an 87 Jimmy. Original 305 with 700r4 trans. Some surface rust but a real nice survivor. I’ve pulled the dash, sorted out the wiring which wasn’t too bad except for the aftermarket stereo. Checked the AC system vac lines and blend doors. Tightened up the tilt steering wheel. (Thats fun if you’ve never tried it) Next week I’ll go through the drive train and suspension components. I haven’t decided on a motor yet but will probably go with a 350 sb and retain the TBI system. Will paint back to original Blue but Im going black for the interior. Hard top will be replaced with a Softopper. No lift, Im trying to stay “close” to original.. 
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Nice truck. The soft tops or topless looks great but I always carry to much gear I want a little more security for. The Chevy 350 is a great engine. Old trucks are a never ending money pit but can be very rewarding. My truck is a 1984 military model I got antique plates for,one time purchase and good for life.I only drive it for maintenance purposes of course. If you have the time skills and money,and don't get burnt out,lose sight of your end goal,you will end up with a great truck. Good luck with your project. |
| They're not like Jeeps where you can frequently take the top on and off, but with the top off, the rear seat is a hoot. |
Posterity! You will never know, how much it cost the present Generation, to preserve your Freedom! I hope you will make a good Use of it. If you do not, I shall repent in Heaven, that I ever took half the Pains to preserve it.---John Adams
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Originally Posted By intheburbs: They're not like Jeeps where you can frequently take the top on and off, but with the top off, the rear seat is a hoot. Im actually going to sell/give away the top. Too damn heavy and takes up too much space. The Softopper sides can roll up and it can also fold back. I need to look for a lockbox option, just haven’t gotten that far yet. |
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Originally Posted By mscout118: Im actually going to sell/give away the top. Too damn heavy and takes up too much space. The Softopper sides can roll up and it can also fold back. I need to look for a lockbox option, just haven’t gotten that far yet. Originally Posted By mscout118: Originally Posted By intheburbs: They're not like Jeeps where you can frequently take the top on and off, but with the top off, the rear seat is a hoot. Im actually going to sell/give away the top. Too damn heavy and takes up too much space. The Softopper sides can roll up and it can also fold back. I need to look for a lockbox option, just haven’t gotten that far yet. Buddy of mine had a jeep with a lockbox that was bolted to the frame. You could still break into it, but it would take time and tools. It was secure enough to deter the common scumbags. |
Not fly enough to be halal....
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Originally Posted By USMC2111: Looks like a great project! While I grew up building and working on first Gen small blocks, I'd go with a 5.3L LS. More power, reliability, and less fuel consumption. I’ve thought about it. I just haven’t sat down and done the math on an LS swap. Im also ignorant on the subject. Doesn’t it require a new transmission as well as wiring harness etc? I know the TBI “computer” controls the transmission on this model. |
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Originally Posted By TxRabbitBane: Buddy of mine had a jeep with a lockbox that was bolted to the frame. You could still break into it, but it would take time and tools. It was secure enough to deter the common scumbags. Originally Posted By TxRabbitBane: Originally Posted By mscout118: Originally Posted By intheburbs: They're not like Jeeps where you can frequently take the top on and off, but with the top off, the rear seat is a hoot. Im actually going to sell/give away the top. Too damn heavy and takes up too much space. The Softopper sides can roll up and it can also fold back. I need to look for a lockbox option, just haven’t gotten that far yet. Buddy of mine had a jeep with a lockbox that was bolted to the frame. You could still break into it, but it would take time and tools. It was secure enough to deter the common scumbags. Sounds like a good project for one of my other nephews who is new to welding. Build Uncle Mscout a badass lock box! |
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Originally Posted By mscout118: I’ve thought about it. I just haven’t sat down and done the math on an LS swap. Im also ignorant on the subject. Doesn’t it require a new transmission as well as wiring harness etc? I know the TBI “computer” controls the transmission on this model. Originally Posted By mscout118: Originally Posted By USMC2111: Looks like a great project! While I grew up building and working on first Gen small blocks, I'd go with a 5.3L LS. More power, reliability, and less fuel consumption. I’ve thought about it. I just haven’t sat down and done the math on an LS swap. Im also ignorant on the subject. Doesn’t it require a new transmission as well as wiring harness etc? I know the TBI “computer” controls the transmission on this model. Unnecessary, my 89 blazer 12 to 14 mpg with the 350 TBI. I wouldn't pull a good engine to swap. Maybe if yours is junk. |
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Originally Posted By Jerret_S: Unnecessary, my 89 blazer 12 to 14 mpg with the 350 TBI. I wouldn't pull a good engine to swap. Maybe if yours is junk. Originally Posted By Jerret_S: Originally Posted By mscout118: Originally Posted By USMC2111: Looks like a great project! While I grew up building and working on first Gen small blocks, I'd go with a 5.3L LS. More power, reliability, and less fuel consumption. I’ve thought about it. I just haven’t sat down and done the math on an LS swap. Im also ignorant on the subject. Doesn’t it require a new transmission as well as wiring harness etc? I know the TBI “computer” controls the transmission on this model. Unnecessary, my 89 blazer 12 to 14 mpg with the 350 TBI. I wouldn't pull a good engine to swap. Maybe if yours is junk. I have a couple of options on some “mildly built” 350s Im looking at. Still deciding. |
I myself am a Conosur of black K5's.. and well square Bodys in general.  Semi Pro Tip- its cheaper to buy a roller that has the parts you need most of the time. The TBI is good when its working, YouTube is full of info on fixing these things, tons of good and some bad info there. Check for rust where the rear of the door meets the cab above the quarter panel. They trap water there and rust out from the inside. Also check for rust around the cap seal. Holds water and rust outside in there. You’ll know this one by rust stained cap screws. Soft Topper- its not total trash, it works ok but I would have been better off sorting out a better way to install/remove the top. Got this one from a Navy kid. Cleaned up the interior, installed a soft topper, sold it to an old man in West Texas.   LMC carpet for 81-91 K5 Blazer over Lizardskin Got this one from my neighbor, was a civ 6.2 diesel unit. Stripped it and lost interest when I couldnt find someone to paint it. Sold to a buddy when he bought one to find out that his had a TON of rust that was hidden and needed a new tub.  Built this one using the blazer frame, a C10 shorty frame, and a stripped cab I found on a lot- Traded to a friend for a 69 mustang.    July C10 to K10 conversion update Current "moneypit" trying to get it completely done for under $7500, found it in some trees when I went to look at a Blazer. Dakota Digital and American Autowire are going to eat about $1800 into my $7500 budget.  Things got sporty last night, I actually had it running/driving before taking it apart. Trying to get the rust handled on the cab, I have another cab from the shorty I took apart to build the light blue truck that I need to cut patch panels out of. This truck is an original 77 low back bucket seat truck or I would have crushed the cab.  Red truck in background was a freebie "I need this junk car removed" The cab/bed are perfect with no rust. 
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Its to late for the boots, save your watch!
This is a money pit, I went halfies with my daughter on it orginally and it was a "professionally built" truck.  I think we are in the 30k range on it but its decently nice. 390hp crate motor as the TBI engine that came in it shit the bed in two weeks of owning. Chopped up one of my Krinks and sold it to buy a new motor and we installed. ATK motor American Autowire harness, kept running into shit in the original harness so just replaced the whole thing. I have done 4 now and really want to redo this one and clean it up as I am pretty good at it now. New 700R4 but gotta get the lockout working Rebuilt transfer case Rebuilt Axles TMI seats New dash, headliner, door panels, dakota digital gauges New 4" lift with Bilstein shocks ORD crossover steering setup. (so far that was a mistake on a street truck) The only thing that was part of the truck that still is so far is the body, and frame. Still needs a lot of work.  |
Its to late for the boots, save your watch!
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Originally Posted By kells81: This is a money pit, I went halfies with my daughter on it orginally and it was a "professionally built" truck. I think we are in the 30k range on it but its decently nice. 390hp crate motor as the TBI engine that came in it shit the bed in two weeks of owning. Chopped up one of my Krinks and sold it to buy a new motor and we installed. ATK motor American Autowire harness, kept running into shit in the original harness so just replaced the whole thing. I have done 4 now and really want to redo this one and clean it up as I am pretty good at it now. New 700R4 but gotta get the lockout working Rebuilt transfer case Rebuilt Axles TMI seats New dash, headliner, door panels, dakota digital gauges New 4" lift with Bilstein shocks ORD crossover steering setup. (so far that was a mistake on a street truck) The only thing that was part of the truck that still is so far is the body, and frame. Still needs a lot of work. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/43495/IMG_3886-3218307.jpg Great posts and nice work! Ripping out the carpet later today to access the rust. I’ve pulled back the carpet at the doors and so far Im only seeing surface rust. Off to the shop tomorrow for steering, springs, bushings etc. Ill start posting some pics of the progress. |
| Before you put new carpet in put something under it. I have used flatline barrier and the spray stuff. Flatline blows the spray stuff away. It helps with noise and if you work out the AC it really helps get the interior cooler by blocking out the heat from the center tunnel area and firewall. When you need to get holes in the new carpet for bolts etc get your carpet where you want it and take a torch/ Phillips screwdriver under it and get the screwdriver tip up and poke through the carpet. You will need to cut the shifter hole out first and bolt it down then work your way to the outside from the middle on each side. |
Its to late for the boots, save your watch!
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Originally Posted By kells81: This is a money pit, I went halfies with my daughter on it orginally and it was a "professionally built" truck. I think we are in the 30k range on it but its decently nice. 390hp crate motor as the TBI engine that came in it shit the bed in two weeks of owning. Chopped up one of my Krinks and sold it to buy a new motor and we installed. ATK motor American Autowire harness, kept running into shit in the original harness so just replaced the whole thing. I have done 4 now and really want to redo this one and clean it up as I am pretty good at it now. New 700R4 but gotta get the lockout working Rebuilt transfer case Rebuilt Axles TMI seats New dash, headliner, door panels, dakota digital gauges New 4" lift with Bilstein shocks ORD crossover steering setup. (so far that was a mistake on a street truck) The only thing that was part of the truck that still is so far is the body, and frame. Still needs a lot of work. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/43495/IMG_3886-3218307.jpg Damn dude, great work. |
Not fly enough to be halal....
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Originally Posted By kells81: Before you put new carpet in put something under it. I have used flatline barrier and the spray stuff. Flatline blows the spray stuff away. It helps with noise and if you work out the AC it really helps get the interior cooler by blocking out the heat from the center tunnel area and firewall. When you need to get holes in the new carpet for bolts etc get your carpet where you want it and take a torch/ Phillips screwdriver under it and get the screwdriver tip up and poke through the carpet. You will need to cut the shifter hole out first and bolt it down then work your way to the outside from the middle on each side. My cousin recommended something he uses in his restorations. Can’t remember the name but i will tell him about Flatline. Thanks |
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Originally Posted By mscout118: Kells81, what are these brackets for? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/320646/IMG_2696-3527633.jpg There are side panels in the back. These give you something to screw the bottom of the panel to. They are carpet on cardboard and over the years they get trashed with water/etc. 
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Its to late for the boots, save your watch!
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Originally Posted By mscout118: My cousin recommended something he uses in his restorations. Can’t remember the name but i will tell him about Flatline. Thanks Originally Posted By mscout118: Originally Posted By kells81: Before you put new carpet in put something under it. I have used flatline barrier and the spray stuff. Flatline blows the spray stuff away. It helps with noise and if you work out the AC it really helps get the interior cooler by blocking out the heat from the center tunnel area and firewall. When you need to get holes in the new carpet for bolts etc get your carpet where you want it and take a torch/ Phillips screwdriver under it and get the screwdriver tip up and poke through the carpet. You will need to cut the shifter hole out first and bolt it down then work your way to the outside from the middle on each side. My cousin recommended something he uses in his restorations. Can’t remember the name but i will tell him about Flatline. Thanks Lizard skin is what I was trying to think of as spray on. You do the sound and heat barriers but they don't work near as well as flatline. It looks cleaner though. I can back that claim up as I did 2 trucks with the same motor/trans/transfer/headers with one being flatline and one being lizard skin and then took shots of it with a fluke thermal I use on gear in my day to day. The end of the day it doesn't matter too much unless your AC sucks and you need all the help you can get on keeping heat out. Some people do the bedliner then lizard skin and seem to have good results but at that point you have blown way over the budget of a flatline pre cut system. |
Its to late for the boots, save your watch!
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Originally Posted By kells81: There are side panels in the back. These give you something to screw the bottom of the panel to. They are carpet on cardboard and over the years they get trashed with water/etc. https://www.classicchevy.com/media/catalog/product/cache/c4ea0a5ffe13434c8d455075ef81a3cf/6/1/61-889500-1.jpg Originally Posted By kells81: Originally Posted By mscout118: Kells81, what are these brackets for? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/320646/IMG_2696-3527633.jpg There are side panels in the back. These give you something to screw the bottom of the panel to. They are carpet on cardboard and over the years they get trashed with water/etc. https://www.classicchevy.com/media/catalog/product/cache/c4ea0a5ffe13434c8d455075ef81a3cf/6/1/61-889500-1.jpg I went back and looked. The original panels have a carpet overlay and were not screwed at the bottom. 
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Originally Posted By mscout118: I went back and looked. The original panels have a carpet overlay and were not screwed at the bottom. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/320646/IMG_2699-3527728.jpg The other screws are is still in the bracket in the bracket photo. 
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Its to late for the boots, save your watch!
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Spent a couple of hours today removing the trim around the windshield and doors. Removed the fresh air vent and passenger door buzzer (no wiring to be found) Tomorrow she’s headed to the shop. Transfer case and transmission rebuilt, new leaf springs bushings etc. |
Out of the garage and off to the shop to start the real work. Game plan 1. Steering, drivetrain and suspension. 2. Motor swap. 3. Interior, sanding floorboard, door jambs, attending to rust and coating. 4. Back to the garage for new interior fitting. I think I’ll drive it for awhile and then back to garage for bodywork and paint.
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Originally Posted By kells81: There are side panels in the back. These give you something to screw the bottom of the panel to. They are carpet on cardboard and over the years they get trashed with water/etc. https://www.classicchevy.com/media/catalog/product/cache/c4ea0a5ffe13434c8d455075ef81a3cf/6/1/61-889500-1.jpg Originally Posted By kells81: Originally Posted By mscout118: Kells81, what are these brackets for? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/320646/IMG_2696-3527633.jpg There are side panels in the back. These give you something to screw the bottom of the panel to. They are carpet on cardboard and over the years they get trashed with water/etc. https://www.classicchevy.com/media/catalog/product/cache/c4ea0a5ffe13434c8d455075ef81a3cf/6/1/61-889500-1.jpg And those two pieces are $$ |
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Originally Posted By mscout118: And those two pieces are $$ For sure! Pretty rare to get a set of used in good condition and new is too much. I don’t have a pic but the last one I found a set of aluminum side panels. They were half the cost of the factory style. |
Its to late for the boots, save your watch!
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Originally Posted By kells81: For sure! Pretty rare to get a set of used in good condition and new is too much. I don’t have a pic but the last one I found a set of aluminum side panels. They were half the cost of the factory style. Originally Posted By kells81: Originally Posted By mscout118: And those two pieces are $$ For sure! Pretty rare to get a set of used in good condition and new is too much. I don’t have a pic but the last one I found a set of aluminum side panels. They were half the cost of the factory style. I'm going full out on this thing and I plan to keep it forever. I'm replacing as much of the interior with new, as much as I can find. There are some trim pieces that are unavailable and I'll be restoring those parts. So I'm gonna be in so deep, the cost of those rear panels are just part of the burning sensation in my wallet. lol |
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Ive done: Blue:tan Black:Burgandy Black:blue Black:tan Tan:Tan Red:Red Yellow:black I think my favorite interior color is tan but its gotta be on anything but black. If you stay black the answer is mostly maroon. Best bet is do a paint swatch on a door panel and see how you like it before you commit. |
Its to late for the boots, save your watch!
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OP.... I personally wouldn't use the 305, and would sell it the minute it leaves the engine bay If you swap in a 350 SBC.....keep the TBI, the ECU and the HEI distributor. Upgrade the intake manifold to an aluminum intake for better performance/mileage. A decent set of headers with a cross-over and 2.5 in. exhaust will make a very nice all around package....with more power/torque/mileage improvements Give the folks at https://affordable-fuel-injection.com/ and get an upgraded ECM prom chip for the 350 engine. They should have a guide on how to get it all to work with the 700r4. Also verify with them if you have the correct year 305 distributor that will work with 350. The ECM will control the distributor to run at the best timing for the whatever RPM you are at while driving Click here for the performance distributors webpage from Davis Unified Ignition These guys will know what you'll need if AFI can't provide you with the specific info. I've dealt with both of these companies....top notch people that know these systems, and how to make them run perfect, and reliably for years. . |
Occid Vel Occisus Est !!
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Originally Posted By IdahoPCCinc: OP.... I personally wouldn't use the 305, and would sell it the minute it leaves the engine bay If you swap in a 350 SBC.....keep the TBI, the ECU and the HEI distributor. Upgrade the intake manifold to an aluminum intake for better performance/mileage. A decent set of headers with a cross-over and 2.5 in. exhaust will make a very nice all around package....with more power/torque/mileage improvements Give the folks at https://affordable-fuel-injection.com/ and get an upgraded ECM prom chip for the 350 engine. They should have a guide on how to get it all to work with the 700r4. Also verify with them if you have the correct year 305 distributor that will work with 350. The ECM will control the distributor to run at the best timing for the whatever RPM you are at while driving Click here for the performance distributors webpage from Davis Unified Ignition These guys will know what you'll need if AFI can't provide you with the specific info. I've dealt with both of these companies....top notch people that know these systems, and how to make them run perfect, and reliably for years. . I am going with a 350. Thanks for the info. |
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lol that rubber setup is annoying and a pita. Looks good in the rust department. Check up to the sides there is usually a small 1/4” drain hole setup that rust out sometimes. It’s always minor It looks like your cab top/shell transition has the rust spots I was talking about. I’ve yet to pull one off that didn’t have even a little. There’s a couple of ways to fix it. Anything from “not today satan” and pretending you didn’t see it to chopping that section out of a wrecking yard unit. |
Its to late for the boots, save your watch!
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Originally Posted By kells81: lol that rubber setup is annoying and a pita. Looks good in the rust department. Check up to the sides there is usually a small 1/4” drain hole setup that rust out sometimes. It’s always minor It looks like your cab top/shell transition has the rust spots I was talking about. I’ve yet to pull one off that didn’t have even a little. There’s a couple of ways to fix it. Anything from “not today satan” and pretending you didn’t see it to chopping that section out of a wrecking yard unit. I didnt spend a lot of time on the cab transition today. The one spot is pretty deep. Im waiting for the Softtopper to come in so we can check the mounting hardware and decide what action to take. Tomorrow will be more floorboard and bed prep. I want to get that done (my time) so the shop can get the trans/transfer unit out. There are a couple of cracks where the seat mount holes are. Welder fixed one yesterday but I found more today. I told shop owner (my cousin) not to bring the welder back out until I finish. Nickel and dime stuff already starting! |
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Originally Posted By mscout118: I didnt spend a lot of time on the cab transition today. The one spot is pretty deep. Im waiting for the Softtopper to come in so we can check the mounting hardware and decide what action to take. Tomorrow will be more floorboard and bed prep. I want to get that done (my time) so the shop can get the trans/transfer unit out. There are a couple of cracks where the seat mount holes are. Welder fixed one yesterday but I found more today. I told shop owner (my cousin) not to bring the welder back out until I finish. Nickel and dime stuff already starting! Check for cracks where the front shocks mount to the frame. I had an '84 Chevy, and both of them were cracked. Just another nugget to look for. |
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Originally Posted By Gopher: Check for cracks where the front shocks mount to the frame. I had an '84 Chevy, and both of them were cracked. Just another nugget to look for. The shop is doing most of the driveline/suspension, but I will check those tomorrow. Thanks |
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Originally Posted By Gopher: Check for cracks where the front shocks mount to the frame. I had an '84 Chevy, and both of them were cracked. Just another nugget to look for. That would have to be a result of a bigger issue. I’ve pulled several trucks down and haven’t seen a busted/cracked shock mount. The steering box on the other hand, I would say out of 15/16 trucks I’ve pulled down maybe 11 had cracked frames at the steering box. It’s supposed to be a 4wd truck problem but I’ve found it in 2wd frames. OP, if you plan on doing any lift/larger tires make sure the steering box area is worked over. |
Its to late for the boots, save your watch!
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Originally Posted By mscout118: No lift. Just looked at the front shock mounts, no cracks. This floorboard coating is a sumbitch. I have found a few cracks/ rust spots under it so I have to take it all off. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/320646/IMG_2739-3533061.jpg Factory carpet glue sucks as well https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/320646/image-3533063.jpg Wire wheel does great on what you can’t pull by hand. |
Its to late for the boots, save your watch!
