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Posted: 8/22/2017 12:05:53 AM EDT
[#1]
The 20v Dewalt will be your favorite tool of the decade.
When you decide you want to start breaking automotive bolts instead of wood screws, go with the Snap-On battery impact guns. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 12:09:11 AM EDT
[#2]
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Milwaukee fuel |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 12:49:29 AM EDT
[#3]
I really like Ryobi 18v tools, but when it came to the hammer drill and impact driver I spent the $ for a DeWalt 20v brushless pair. I had to cut out part of a beam and then screw through a 4" replacement piece. I think the screws were 8 or 10 inch. The driver didn't even slow down driving those puppies. I grab the Ryobi drill/driver for most jobs, but when it comes time to not spare the power I grab the DeWalts.
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Posted: 8/22/2017 7:18:49 AM EDT
[#4]
That battery lasts forever.
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Posted: 8/22/2017 7:23:05 AM EDT
[#5]
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I have a couple jobs coming up, both involve decks. One is to drive in some LedgerLOKs, the other is to screw down some stair treads that are falling the fuck off because the builder was a 'tard. Thinking it's a good excuse to buy a cordelss impact driver. Is this one any good? Link to DeWalt DCF887M2 Thanks for any replies. Yes, yes it is! I got one as part of the 5 tool set last year on black Friday. Works fantastic, a lot more power then the 18v that I had before that. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 7:24:11 AM EDT
[#6]
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My impact runs screws at 3000ish rpm while my drill dpes about 1000. 1 screw and you'll never notice but go to build a deck and it's a big diff. For running self tap'rs, there's a night and day diff Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I use that same model at work, mostly for driving screws to repair deck boards. I like it. impact seems to just have one speed and no clutch? |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 7:28:27 AM EDT
[#7]
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Sorry another question, when does it know to stop? I've used it to drive bolts when I was putting my garage cabinets together. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I use that same model at work, mostly for driving screws to repair deck boards. I like it. impact seems to just have one speed and no clutch? 
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Posted: 8/22/2017 7:28:59 AM EDT
[#8]
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They come with an integral 3/8 anvil instead of the slip chuck in which you have to place a small 1/4'' bit that snaps on the last fucking screw every time. http://www.dewalt.com/products/power-tools/impact-drivers-and-wrenches/20v-max-38-impact-wrench-kit-30ah/dcf883l2 
That anvil is going to seriously limit your use of the driver. Half its usefulness is hot swapping driver bits |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 7:34:25 AM EDT
[#9]
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newb question, why use that when you can use a cordless/hammer drill also? impact seems to just have one speed and no clutch? It's very easy to drive screws without going to far, it's much shorter then a hammer drill, your hand is closer to the screw to its easier to keep everything aligned, and the quick change bit won't slip unlike the check in a hammer drill. I laughed too years ago when I was looking for a new drill, and begrudgingly bought the DeWalt kit with the impact driver and drill in it, fully expecting to never use the impact. About the only thing I use the drill for is actually drilling. All driving is done with the impact. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 7:49:47 AM EDT
[#10]
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Milwaukee, DeWalt, Ridgid, Makita, Kobalt, whatever... Buy whatever you already have batteries for. If it is your first cordless tool, look at the rest of the tools the company makes to make sure you can get what you want in the future and then buy whatever is on sale. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 8:11:57 AM EDT
[#11]
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You are using super cheap bits then, because I have never broken a bit in my impact driver
That anvil is going to seriously limit your use of the driver. Half its usefulness is hot swapping driver bits |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 8:40:02 AM EDT
[#12]
My Dewalt batteries, after 10 years of use, are now dying out.
Have a Dewalt impact and a ridgid impact. Sticking with ridgid on cordless tools from now on since you can get the battery pack replacements for free under their warranty. Dewalts have been great but battery replacement is half the cost of the tool so it makes sense to use Ridgid, which are solid tools. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 8:47:27 AM EDT
[#13]
I bought the new Harbor Freight one for $100 like a month ago. I've used it for a bunch of crap around the house in that time without issue. The teardowns on Youtube are pretty favorable too.
Check this one out too -- depends on the store, but there's a couple in stock by me for as cheap as $130 for the combo https://brickseek.com/lowes-inventory-checker?sku=50074337 |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 8:56:52 AM EDT
[#14]
Have one and love it!
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Posted: 8/22/2017 9:00:33 AM EDT
[#15]
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Not familiar with an "anvil". How does that work? He's saying this one comes with an anvil that has a 3/8" square drive (i.e. you can fit a 3/8" drive socket straight onto the front) as opposed to the smaller ones that have a 1/4" hex drive for putting screw driver bits into. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 9:03:23 AM EDT
[#16]
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It's controlled by the nut behind the trigger. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I use that same model at work, mostly for driving screws to repair deck boards. I like it. impact seems to just have one speed and no clutch? To answer the question about why an impact vs. a drill/driver - an impact can generate WAY more torque than a drill driver and doesn't get stressed doing it. If you're driving big 10" screws into the structural members of your decking a drill driver will be working seriously hard, it'll be getting hot and the internal and battery will be getting stressed. An impact doesn't care how hard it is to driver the screw, it makes no difference to the unit at all. If you try and drive a screw beyond the capabilities of a drill/driver you can get destroy your tool (or have it cut into protection mode if it has one) where as an impact in the same situation will keep hammering just fine - except that the screw isn't turning. (think about trying to press a nail into wood - as the nail gets bigger and the wood gets tougher it takes more and more work to press the nail in and more stress on you - this is the drill/driver. If you just hammer, hitting equally hard with every stroke there is no more effort to the big nail in hard wood vs. the small nail in soft wood, it just takes more hammer strikes.) Finally, you can get more torque in a smaller, lighter package and with better battery life too. A drill/driver is a perfectly fine way of driving small screws into fairly soft material. If you need torque control (e.g. assembling flat-pack furniture) then a drill/driver is what you want. If you're building a deck, driving self tappers into something moderately hard, putting a load of concrete anchors in, etc. an impact is just a more appropriate tool. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 9:06:14 AM EDT
[#17]
this is the 4th or 5th gen I forget which but its a hydraulic drive. it is better than the ones we use at work.
its a brushless fuel "surge".  
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Posted: 8/22/2017 9:19:11 AM EDT
[#18]
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This. You absolutely can destroy stuff with an impact driver if you're heavy on the trigger and not paying attention. You can spilt wood, break castings, stretch bolts, etc. There is no torque control on an impact other than the speed control. For anything that needs to be tightened carefully an impact is not the correct tool. To answer the question about why an impact vs. a drill/driver - an impact can generate WAY more torque than a drill driver and doesn't get stressed doing it. If you're driving big 10" screws into the structural members of your decking a drill driver will be working seriously hard, it'll be getting hot and the internal and battery will be getting stressed. An impact doesn't care how hard it is to driver the screw, it makes no difference to the unit at all. If you try and drive a screw beyond the capabilities of a drill/driver you can get destroy your tool (or have it cut into protection mode if it has one) where as an impact in the same situation will keep hammering just fine - except that the screw isn't turning. Finally, you can get more torque in a smaller, lighter package and with better battery life too. A drill/driver is a perfectly fine way of driving small screws into fairly soft material. If you need torque control (e.g. assembling flat-pack furniture) then a drill/driver is what you want. If you're building a deck, driving self tappers into something moderately hard, putting a load of concrete anchors in, etc. an impact is just a more appropriate tool. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I use that same model at work, mostly for driving screws to repair deck boards. I like it. impact seems to just have one speed and no clutch? To answer the question about why an impact vs. a drill/driver - an impact can generate WAY more torque than a drill driver and doesn't get stressed doing it. If you're driving big 10" screws into the structural members of your decking a drill driver will be working seriously hard, it'll be getting hot and the internal and battery will be getting stressed. An impact doesn't care how hard it is to driver the screw, it makes no difference to the unit at all. If you try and drive a screw beyond the capabilities of a drill/driver you can get destroy your tool (or have it cut into protection mode if it has one) where as an impact in the same situation will keep hammering just fine - except that the screw isn't turning. Finally, you can get more torque in a smaller, lighter package and with better battery life too. A drill/driver is a perfectly fine way of driving small screws into fairly soft material. If you need torque control (e.g. assembling flat-pack furniture) then a drill/driver is what you want. If you're building a deck, driving self tappers into something moderately hard, putting a load of concrete anchors in, etc. an impact is just a more appropriate tool. 
I was doing hanging some drywall and expected the drill to be better for that. The driver actually worked very well, as I could just stop as soon as the impact function took over, and the screws were just the right depth. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 9:21:54 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The 20v Dewalt will be your favorite tool of the decade. When you decide you want to start breaking automotive bolts instead of wood screws, go with the Snap-On battery impact guns. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 9:24:05 AM EDT
[#20]
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The DeWalt XP brushless impact driver has three torque settings and speed is controlled by the trigger. It's very easy to drive screws without going to far, it's much shorter then a hammer drill, your hand is closer to the screw to its easier to keep everything aligned, and the quick change bit won't slip unlike the check in a hammer drill. I laughed too years ago when I was looking for a new drill, and begrudgingly bought the DeWalt kit with the impact driver and drill in it, fully expecting to never use the impact. About the only thing I use the drill for is actually drilling. All driving is done with the impact. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 9:25:22 AM EDT
[#21]
I like my Kobalt 24V Impact Driver. I got a heck of a deal on the impact driver and drill kit. They just released a trimmer and blower that I'll pick up.
The best part about the Kobalts is that the smaller batteries are super cheap. 2.0 Ah batteries are $20. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 9:38:48 AM EDT
[#22]
I went with a DeWalt kit when my Hitachi cordless drill died. That DeWalt impact driver makes tire rotations a breeze.
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Posted: 8/22/2017 10:00:30 AM EDT
[#23]
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Same here. One nice thing about the Porter-Cable tools is that after you've got the battery and charger that was included with the tool, you can use them with other "bare" PC tools (i.e., no batteries included) that sell for just a fraction of what most other brands cost. For example, the 20V drill goes for around 30 bucks on Amazon. You can end up with pretty nice collection of 20 volt cordless tools for just a couple hundred bucks. Generic versions of the batteries are also available on Amazon and ebay - They sell for roughly half the cost of their PC-branded counterparts. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 10:01:31 AM EDT
[#24]
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My Dewalt batteries, after 10 years of use, are now dying out. Have a Dewalt impact and a ridgid impact. Sticking with ridgid on cordless tools from now on since you can get the battery pack replacements for free under their warranty. Dewalts have been great but battery replacement is half the cost of the tool so it makes sense to use Ridgid, which are solid tools. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 10:03:44 AM EDT
[#25]
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Word around the campfire is that even though Ridgid has that warranty, its an act of God to get them to honor it |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 10:12:18 AM EDT
[#26]
We use Dewalt tools at work. 20v max 1/2" XR impact (700ish tightening, 1100ft/lb reverse) will take wheel bolts off that our stupid OSHA mandated 90psi air guns won't. We also have the smaller 1/2" guns (150ft/lb) for normal assembly and they are awesomely bulletproof. I've recently bought an oscillating tool and a 1/4" impact driver for home because the Milwaukee drill and Impact driver I have have lots of runout on the chuck and bit holders. The drill wobbles the whole time and the impact driver will jump out of whatever screw you're driving and put a nice divot in whatever you're working on (or your fucking hand) for the same reason. Tried different bits with no luck, started using the Dewalt stuff at work and I could actually drive screws and the drills didn't shake anymore.
I do think Milwaukee has the better battery, but the Dewalt's in 1.5ah, 3ah, 4ah, and 5ah have all been good for me. 2 years to date on daily use and haven't failed one yet. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 10:19:34 AM EDT
[#27]
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Did those people jump through the registration hoops properly when they bought the tool? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Word around the campfire is that even though Ridgid has that warranty, its an act of God to get them to honor it I can speak to Milwaukee's warranty though. I had issues with a drill. Filled out their eService from, got a shipping label and had the drill back in all at a weeks time combined. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 10:21:43 AM EDT
[#28]
I have the older single speed version of that, it's badass. I have no reason to upgrade to the 3 speed but I want it.
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Posted: 8/22/2017 10:23:25 AM EDT
[#29]
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When you decide you want to start breaking automotive bolts instead of wood screws, go with the Snap-On battery impact guns. My Dewalt XR puts out roughly the same power (and came out 3 years before Snapon caught up) and is less than half the price of the Snapon with 3x the warranty. What is $750 getting me that $350 (I actually bought the bare tool on sale for $115 ) isn't?
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Posted: 8/22/2017 10:24:48 AM EDT
[#30]
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I have a couple jobs coming up, both involve decks. One is to drive in some LedgerLOKs, the other is to screw down some stair treads that are falling the fuck off because the builder was a 'tard. Thinking it's a good excuse to buy a cordelss impact driver. Is this one any good? Link to DeWalt DCF887M2 Thanks for any replies. I have that one and I love it. There's barely a week that goes by that it doesn't get used. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 10:26:20 AM EDT
[#31]
i have the 18v Nicd version of that unit in the OP. It is the most used cordless tool that I own. It's hard to figure out why I didn't buy one sooner...
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Posted: 8/22/2017 10:26:31 AM EDT
[#32]
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCK281D2-Lithium-Brushless-Compact/dp/B00CSDIMXY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?tag=slickdeals&ascsubtag=a21391f8874511e7b5313e364c14c4010INT&ie=UTF8
This seems like a decent deal if your getting the impact anyways. DEWALT DCK281D2 20V Max XR Lithium Ion Brushless Compact Drill/Driver & Impact Driver Combo
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Posted: 8/22/2017 10:29:38 AM EDT
[#33]
DeWalt's 20v Max XR line is great. Brushless tools, better designed battery packs. These slide-on batteries are much more durable than the older "male" style ones, that would be inserted into the tool. The contacts aren't subject to (as much) vibration.
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Posted: 8/22/2017 11:55:17 AM EDT
[#34]
I have the older version of that DeWalt. It works great.
The only reason I own any DeWalt items is because my work buys the batteries. At home I use Rigid. Batteries have a lifetime warranty once you properly register them. On the second warranty replacement, I received newer version batteries and a new charger....free. Since it takes about two weeks to get the new batteries, I just bought a newer Rigid drill. Now I can keep one drill on my reloading bench with a primer reamer installed and I don't have to chase it down in my garage. That is my second suggestion, if you are setting a lot of deck screws, it is probably better to buy two drivers to prevent overheating. The last time I ran a lot of screws I had two drivers. Priceless. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 12:13:03 PM EDT
[#35]
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You can do the same with other manufacturers like Milwaukee and DeWalt. They offer bare tools, refurbs online, etc. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Same here. One nice thing about the Porter-Cable tools is that after you've got the battery and charger that was included with the tool, you can use them with other "bare" PC tools (i.e., no batteries included) that sell for just a fraction of what most other brands cost. For example, the 20V drill goes for around 30 bucks on Amazon. You can end up with pretty nice collection of 20 volt cordless tools for just a couple hundred bucks. Generic versions of the batteries are also available on Amazon and ebay - They sell for roughly half the cost of their PC-branded counterparts. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 12:47:10 PM EDT
[#36]
The "just won't stop" thing can happen on both ends of these tools. I needed to install a new bath vent in our old house. 4" hole through cedar siding and sheeting. The siding was old, warped, and had XXXX coats of paint. Every time the hole cutter would grab I'd about have my arms torn off and risk being thrown off the ladder.
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Posted: 8/22/2017 1:51:58 PM EDT
[#37]
I have both Milwaukee and Rigid (Home Depot), both 18V.
Although the Milwaukee is slightly better in my opinion, the lifetime warranty on the Rigid batteries tips the scale in favor of the slightly cheaper Home Depot offering. CAUTION, you MUST register your Rigid batteries online to put the lifetime replacement offer into effect. I use mine a lot (for home owner/non commercial user), and both the drill driver and the impact get a work out putting together target stands and other work around the property and home. If all you have ever used is corded, you WILL love cordless. Which ever you get, spend a little extra and get a belt and holster for your driver. The belt hook/clip works, but if you are moving around much you will drop your tool. Nylon holster is best. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 5:21:03 PM EDT
[#38]
Quoted:
I have a couple jobs coming up, both involve decks. One is to drive in some LedgerLOKs, the other is to screw down some stair treads that are falling the fuck off because the builder was a 'tard. Thinking it's a good excuse to buy a cordelss impact driver. Is this one any good? Link to DeWalt DCF887M2 Thanks for any replies. SP, I own that tool and the Makita version - I received the Makita as a birthday gift. The Makita is simply a better tool. More power and more battery life. No idea about the cost difference as I didn't buy the Makita. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 6:30:19 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
this is the 4th or 5th gen I forget which but its a hydraulic drive. it is better than the ones we use at work. its a brushless fuel "surge". www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6Z3HK7 |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 6:32:41 PM EDT
[#40]
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Did those people jump through the registration hoops properly when they bought the tool? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Word around the campfire is that even though Ridgid has that warranty, its an act of God to get them to honor it |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 6:38:26 PM EDT
[#41]
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They come with an integral 3/8 anvil instead of the slip chuck in which you have to place a small 1/4'' bit that snaps on the last fucking screw every time. http://www.dewalt.com/products/power-tools/impact-drivers-and-wrenches/20v-max-38-impact-wrench-kit-30ah/dcf883l2 |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 6:38:42 PM EDT
[#42]
20V Dewalt here. In Six years haven't lost a battery or a tool, they all still work. One of my guys thought he killed an impact driver but I took it apart and it had part of a finish nail stuck in the brush. Cleaned it out and back to work it went.
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Posted: 8/22/2017 6:41:16 PM EDT
[#43]
DeWalt is good.
I got the 20V Craftman set when it was on sale for $160 and had gift cards to bring down to 110 put the door. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 6:52:13 PM EDT
[#44]
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It's controlled by the nut behind the trigger. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I use that same model at work, mostly for driving screws to repair deck boards. I like it. impact seems to just have one speed and no clutch?
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Posted: 8/22/2017 6:59:47 PM EDT
[#45]
My work supplies dewalt power tools, the entire 20v set, they're okay, in fairness the dewalt impact is the only tool in the set that I don't mind.
that being said I have a Milwaukee fuel impact driver and drill (is a hammer drill too) as a personal set and I love it, blows dewalt out of the water edit: what part of pa you live in? If you're close you can use my fuel set as long as you want, if you like it buy yourself a set |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 7:08:02 PM EDT
[#46]
Some reviews. Language is NSFW
 BOLTR: Makita Brushless Impact Driver  BOLTR: Millwaukee 1/2" Nut Smacker  BOLTR: Made in USA, DeWalt 20V MAX Hammer Drill. Mechanical Part A.  BOLTR: DeWalt Hammer Drill. Test, tune and Electrical |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 7:14:42 PM EDT
[#47]
When the question is cordless power tools, the answer is always Milwaukee Fuel.
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Posted: 8/22/2017 7:15:37 PM EDT
[#48]
OP, yes, the one you linked is GTG.
I'm a GC and I use that exact impact/drill set. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 7:16:52 PM EDT
[#49]
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OP, yes, the one you linked is GTG. I'm a GC and I use that exact impact/drill set. 
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Posted: 8/22/2017 7:17:01 PM EDT
[#50]
Makita.. is what you seek.
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