I'd tear down the motor and check it out.

I went through the ice with my Banshee a few years ago.  It was -22, everything froze solid on it after we got it out of the water.  I brought to a friend's house with a heated shop to let it thaw.

I changed all the fluids and lubed everything up.  It started after a while and ran fine.

I rode it for about an hour, being gentle.  I was on my way home and heard a noise from the bottom end and it started running on one cylinder.  I shut it down and looked at the motor and found a connecting rod sticking through the front of the case.  Both halves of the crankcase and the right cylinder were shattered beyond repair.  

2-strokes don't like sucking in cold water.

As others have said, it's no big deal. Tear it apart, dry it out, lube it up and keep on strok'in! Go for it. What have you got to lose?
Back in the day, I was a LAV Mech in the Corps. When the Grunts sunk one we would have to tear it completely down flush everything with fresh water, fill everything with light oil and ship it off to Albany. All within 24 hours! We pulled a few all nighters!

Ah! Those were the days........
Hessian-1

Quoted: Start by draining all fluids (brake, clutch, fuel included) After the electronics dry out spray them to death with spray silicone, then spray them again. Refill w/new fluids. Repack wheel bearings, heavily grease all fittings. Turn over by hand w/plug out. If you see spark...great. Remove carb and rebuild. I'd run some sea foam in the first tank of mix. Hopefully the ice didn't bust anything.

This is your best advice so far.  It's fresh water so you won't see a lot of corrosion. Salt water you'd be up the creek.  hahahahaha

Anyway, drain it, dry it, lube the hell out of it and start it up.  You should be OK though you may have to replace the coil and if there is a computer on it you may have to replace that.

Don't forget the intake system.

It's a blaster so it's pretty easy to work on.  Pull the top end of the motor and see how it fared, if you see any rust particles down in the case you're gonna have to split it and get it cleaned up.  The carb will need to be disassembled and cleaned out as well.  Make sure the pipe is completely drained out and I'd also make sure all the chassis bearings are gone over.   The hopefully you have a cable luber, if not get one now and get those cables lubed up to protect them from having problems.  

Remember water is not compressable, if you try kicking it over and there's water in the engine it's gonna break something.  

Tagged, so I don't bite on "slightly used 4 wheeler" on the EE.

EBAY

At least its just a Blaster.  Theres not much to them, and even if all is lost it was just a Blaster.  Happiest day for us is when we sold ours.  Their quick, but ours needed a new top end before the warranty even ran out.

Here's how that conversation went...
Us: We would like to trade in this Blaster...
Dealer:  Well it runs like shit, looks like it needs a new top end, we'll give you about next to nothing on any trade.
Us: Too bad, its still in warranty - fix it and call us when its ready.
Dealer: Umm, okay.

Sold it privately as soon as they replaced the top end.


ETA: as far as fixing it, pretend your chainsaw was in a bucket of water for 2 weeks - you do the same things to get it running.  There is no computer to be concerned with, wash and WD-40 the rest of it.  It should run if you get all the H2O out of the fuel system and block - but expect to blow the top end very quickly, meaning new head gasgets and not because they all go bad, but I think yours will go faster than most now.

I'll give you $250 for it.


____________________________________
The only hope you have is to accept the fact that you are already dead. And the sooner you accept that, the sooner you will be able to function as a soldier is supposed to function, without mercy, without compassion, without remorse.

Quoted: ....The hopefully you have a cable luber, if not get one now and get those cables lubed up to protect them from having problems....

Never heard of this. How does it work?

Quoted: Tagged, so I don't bite on "slightly used 4 wheeler" on the EE.

Like the CARFAX commercial.

For sell: Yamaha Blaster. Under water for 2 weeks. Freshly washed.

Quoted: Quoted: ....The hopefully you have a cable luber, if not get one now and get those cables lubed up to protect them from having problems.... Never heard of this. How does it work?

It's a simple device, you pull the cable off the lever and attatch this to the end, it has a hole where the tube of the spray can goes into and it forces the liquid down the cable.  Any bike shop should have them in stock with cable lube.   It will also make it much easier to pull the levers in.

Quoted: How does it end up like that and how do you leave it there long enough to be frozen in?

+1

Man, I've never seen so many people so afraid of water
It's a quad, it's made go out and get wet and muddy, if you didn't hydrolock and destroy the engine it'll be fine, check your fluids, fill with fresh fuel and fire it up, let it run till it's good and dry.

Quoted: If it's completely underwater you probably won't get much corrosion in only 2 weeks if it's fresh clean water and the extreme cold helps keep things from growing in it.  But you'll still want to check terminals, fuse blocks, connections etc, etc.  Blow everything electrical off till thoroughly, and I mean thoroughly dry. then spray heavily with contact cleaner or WD-40. Throw away the battery and buy a new one.  Drain all fluids and flush with diesel fuel or kerosene and refill with the specified fluid, run for a short period then drain and refill again. That's what I'd do for a start.  If everything seems good then I'd probably just ride the hell out of it. If something doesn't work then I'd consider either a tear down or selling it for parts.  I can't imagine that tearing it down would be that difficult, I've ripped my HD's apart, did a a top end rebuild and trans reseal, blasted all the metal parts and repainted and had it back together and running in less than 12 hours.

I've had that work on drowned engines before.

Get rid of it and buy one of these:



We have one and it goes right across the water.  I've taken it across ponds many times.

Quoted: Get rid of it and buy one of these: i2.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/8d/4a/9eb0_12.JPG We have one and it goes right across the water.  I've taken it across ponds many times.

I have always wanted one of those! Is that yours?

ETA: You selling it on eBay?

Quoted: Quoted: Get rid of it and buy one of these: i2.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/8d/4a/9eb0_12.JPG We have one and it goes right across the water.  I've taken it across ponds many times. I have always wanted one of those! Is that yours? ETA: You selling it on eBay?

No, it's not mine.  My parents actually own it because they have the land for it... I only have a one-acre lot.  

They have a MAX brand, not an ARGO.  My dad had one back in the 70's but got rid of it, then bought the 18HP one several years ago.  He has CAT tracks for the snow, put plugs in it and go across the water, and do PERFECT circles like a tank.  Don't have to swing wide or anything... it just rotates there.

They are awesome vehicles and a lot of fun.  When I get some land I'll definitely get one of my own.

MAX II - 600-T 18 h.p.
Standard equipment: solid splined axles, O-ring chain throughout, 21" Goodyear rawhide tires,
Briggs & Stratton vanguard 570CC twin cylinder, 4-cycle, 18 H.P., 25 MPH land, 4 MPH water

MAX 6-wheeled vehicles

Quoted: Quoted: Get rid of it and buy one of these: i2.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/8d/4a/9eb0_12.JPG We have one and it goes right across the water.  I've taken it across ponds many times. I have always wanted one of those! Is that yours? ETA: You selling it on eBay?

Sloooowww and no suspension other than the tires.  

Depends on what you use it for... the one we had from the 70's actually was REALLLY fast.  Had a replacement snowmobile engine.

You are not paying attention SS. Damn. No one is attempting to ban ATV's. You got the whole "tragic boating accident" thing all fucked up.

Quoted: You are not paying attention SS. Damn. No one is attempting to ban ATV's. You got the whole "tragic boating accident" thing all fucked up.

Ahhh...crap....

Blasters are easy to rebuild and they are tough as nails. Yeah, you have to re-ring them a lot, unless you ride like a sissy.
Pull the fuel tank off and drain. Remove the carb and disassemble, two stroke carbs are simple. Pull out the reed valves and clean. Remove the silencer and repack it. Remove the expansion chamber. Remove the jug and inspect, you probably will only have to hone it out. You can pull the head off of the jug but it should be ok. Then pull the piston off the rod. It's held on with two cir clips and a wrist pin. Inspect the rings they are only $20-25 if you want to get new ones. Remove the kick starter and the clutch cover, if you don't have any water in it your clutch disc should be ok, if there is water in it remove clutch discs, wipe them off and soak in oil overnight ( I used 20w 50) make note of how the were installed. They probably won't last as long but they will last long enough for you to order a set. IIRC they are about $60-80 for a set. Then remove the stator cover on the other side of the case, inspect for water damage. I'd pull the magneto off and spray down the coils underneath it. You'll need a puller for this. Clean the coil pickups, maybe use a fine grit sandpaper and lightly go over them. If you have the oil injector system still on it (took mine off as soon as I got it) drain it and flush the hoses. I recommend getting rid of it though, less electronics to worry about. Flip it upside down and drain whatever is in the crank case, spray something like engine bright or some other diesel/petroleum solvent in it while it's upside down. Only electronics on the bike that are required is the coil pack and the kill switch, hack the rest of the crap off, who needs lights. I forgot that the newer blasters have hydraulic brake systems, so drain and flush the reservoirs and hoses. Is it all disc brakes now? If the front brakes are drum style open em up and clean out all the crud that got in there. Wheel bearings, pfftt, it's a four wheeler the wheel bearings spend 50% of their time under some sort of water/mud.  
Of course clean the air filter and oil it, lube the cables, replace the jug gasket and put back together. RTV will work fine for the side covers. Change the spark plug, fill fuel tank with 32:1 gas/oil mixture IIRC (if you removed the injector system)and ride that SOB like you stole it.

ETA: You can put the front wheels on backwards to get a wider wheel base in the front, makes for better turning.  Oh and ditch the airbox cover, I'll stop now, basically I'm saying there is tons of stuff you can do to make a blaster a.... well... a blast.

Quoted: I'll never understand folks who treat multi thousand $$ toys like shit.   I guess I'm just not rich enough have that kind of problem.

It's a 2003. I bought it in 2003 from the original owner for $800. It was only a couple months old. I have rode the crap out of it year round for 3.5 years now. I think I got my money's worth. This was an accident, not treating it like shit. Trust me, I wish this never happened and it wasn't at all an enjoyable experience.

Let it dry for a day or two, then dunk it in a tank of oil for 2 weeks...........duh.