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Nothing like having evidence of a willful violation on your web site. http://integritywaterproofing.com/files/2013/05/three-step-sealing-process-300x198.jpghttp://integritywaterproofing.com/files/2013/05/installing-dimple-drainage-mat-300x225.jpg View Quote I just searched google to give an example of proper waterproofing techniques. But you are right that doesn't meet osha regs. |
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I have been talking to the sales lady. She said the site superintendent says it is fine and they will keep an eye on it to see if it leaks.
I told her it is not acceptable and that it 100% needs to be epoxy filled before I buy the house. She then said I just have to talk to the site superintendent when I do my pre drywall inspection. Looks like I have a fight on my hands and the house is in volo IL so not in tornado alley. |
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I have been talking to the sales lady. She said the site superintendent says it is fine and they will keep an eye on it to see if it leaks. I told her it is not acceptable and that it 100% needs to be epoxy filled before I buy the house. She then said I just have to talk to the site superintendent when I do my pre drywall inspection. Looks like I have a fight on my hands and the house is in volo IL so not in tornado alley. View Quote As others have said, I wouldn't be too concerned with that crack. If there is drainage coming in, it could just be because maybe the foundation hasn't been waterproofed yet, or maybe gutters aren't installed yet or final grading hasn't been done yet, which all could direct water to that area, overwhelming the foundation drains that may or may not have been installed yet. I would bet once it is properly water proofed, gutters installed and graded so water is draining away from your foundation, it won't be a problem. Talk about it with the superintendent, send an email so you have a record of your concerns, and re-check at your final walk through to ensure it isn't an on going problem. Remember, you signed a contract to buy that house, and if there isn't some verification from an engineer that the house isn't structurally sound, you will lose money by backing out of the contract. |
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I'm guessing there's no roof and gutters on the home yet? And the final grade isn't set? Did it just rain a Bunch?
Any foundation or joint in a foundation will leak if water gets by it. I think you are doing good getting it noted now. |
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You really need to hire a civil engineer with expertise in this area. The engineer is the only one who can wave their magic wand and declare it fit or unfit.
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Nothing like having evidence of a willful violation on your web site. http://integritywaterproofing.com/files/2013/05/three-step-sealing-process-300x198.jpghttp://integritywaterproofing.com/files/2013/05/installing-dimple-drainage-mat-300x225.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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What depth below ground level are the footings? What type of soil. Is there a French drain all around the house? If the footings are 5' or deeper you are below the frost line and the house should not move. If the contractor is willing to go the extra mile and repair the crack and properly waterproof the exterior of the foundation like in the link below I would have no problem with that. Link http://integritywaterproofing.com/files/2013/05/three-step-sealing-process-300x198.jpghttp://integritywaterproofing.com/files/2013/05/installing-dimple-drainage-mat-300x225.jpg |
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Pay the money and have an civil engineer give you an answer. View Quote Other people having houses built there tried to get their money back by demanding a refund and cancellation and were told to pound sand. I got my money back by demanding all the defects be fixed properly (as in tear down and redo from the footer up) or we'd be in court suing to have the work done right. I was bluffing and didn't want any part of that crappily built house. The day of the refund they cut a check for our deposit and drove it and cancellation paperwork up from Cincinnati to Dayton and handed it to my wife when she signed off on the cancellation. When she had asked if they needed me there to sign off they said "NO!". |
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I have been talking to the sales lady. She said the site superintendent says it is fine and they will keep an eye on it to see if it leaks. I told her it is not acceptable and that it 100% needs to be epoxy filled before I buy the house. She then said I just have to talk to the site superintendent when I do my pre drywall inspection. Looks like I have a fight on my hands and the house is in volo IL so not in tornado alley. View Quote Your third pic of the exterior should have shown a drainage panel between the waterproofing and the soil. A drainage panel allows water to flow to the footing drain and it protects the spayed in place water proofing from damage. Note the rocks in the stock pile of soil... IMO, the super should excavate the location at the crack, clean the wall and cover it with a bituthene or similar product. He/she should inject the crack too. It's too late to worry about the drainage panel. I'm almost certain that they wrote the specifications. |
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Concrete gets hard
Concrete cracks There, now you know the two universal facts about concrete. I'd want to see pictures of the exterior waterproofing. You did pay for exterior waterproofing, yes? |
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Can't see your pic .... but assuming this is poured concrete absolutely refuse it. The crack is full depth? That is fucked.
FWIW I am a PE (civil engineering) and work in the heavy construction industry, heavy as in I pour 100s-1000s of yards of concrete on my projects. ETA: for it to qualify as a "shrinkage" crack it shouldn't be deeper than an 1/8". Again if you are sure the crack is full depth, that isn't a crack, your wall is fucking broken in two. All concrete will crack, that is normal, it will shrink. Even if it's not full depth I wouldn't accept it at all with any crack over say 1/4". How thick are the walls? ETA #2 I would also want to see how wide the crack is. |
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Concrete gets hard Concrete cracks There, now you know the two universal facts about concrete. I'd want to see pictures of the exterior waterproofing. You did pay for exterior waterproofing, yes? View Quote |
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Can't see your pic .... but assuming this is poured concrete absolutely refuse it. The crack is full depth? That is fucked. FWIW I am a PE (civil engineering) and work in the heavy construction industry, heavy as in I pour 100s-1000s of yards of concrete on my projects. ETA: for it to qualify as a "shrinkage" crack it shouldn't be deeper than an 1/8". Again if you are sure the crack is full depth, that isn't a crack, your wall is fucking broken in two. All concrete will crack, that is normal, it will shrink. Even if it's not full depth I wouldn't accept it at all with any crack over say 1/4". How thick are the walls? ETA #2 I would also want to see how wide the crack is. View Quote It could have been that they had a bad day with heat and the sun but from the OP's description it sounds like a pattern. |
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Concrete gets hard Concrete cracks There, now you know the two universal facts about concrete. I'd want to see pictures of the exterior waterproofing. You did pay for exterior waterproofing, yes? |
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Concrete gets hard Concrete cracks There, now you know the two universal facts about concrete. I'd want to see pictures of the exterior waterproofing. You did pay for exterior waterproofing, yes? |
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The crack is insignificant, the exterior waterproofing is inadequately applied. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Concrete gets hard Concrete cracks There, now you know the two universal facts about concrete. I'd want to see pictures of the exterior waterproofing. You did pay for exterior waterproofing, yes? |
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I wouldn't call it insignificant but I agree that it doesn't look like it will cause any structural issues. View Quote |
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Having done that work for a significant number of years, that crack doesn't even deserve a second glance. The waterproofing isn't the proper type, thickness, or application method. View Quote |
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If the water table is that high you might want to skip the whole basement thing....
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As others have said it does not appear to be too big of a deal. The foundation company, if they are a big enough outfit, should have 1 or 2 guys dedicated to fixing small cracks like that. It can be done a couple ways but around here anyways usually involves drilling some holes along the crack and filling it with epoxy.
Not sure how the crack formed but sometimes if the person performing the backfill is newer, they could have pushed too hard against the foundation while backfilling. Might want to see if the wall is bowed slightly at that point. Again is not too big of a concern if "within tolerance". |
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Having done that work for a significant number of years, that crack doesn't even deserve a second glance. The waterproofing isn't the proper type, thickness, or application method. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I wouldn't call it insignificant but I agree that it doesn't look like it will cause any structural issues. And yes clearly the waterproofing wasn't applied correctly. Again doesn't appear to be of structural concern. Measure the crack width and monitor it. Take a sharpie and draw a line across it and monitor it for differential movement. Have the waterproofing corrected. Good luck with your new home and congrats! |
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Residential wall guys add way too much water when pouring because loose concrete is easier to pour, it flows better. They are diluting the mix, a 4000PSI mix is only 4000PSI with the correct amount of water.
With that said only 2 guarantees with concrete, it gets hard and cracks. Epoxy sucks because no one does it properly, the problems are mostly in the cleaning stage, the epoxy itself is fine but the dust from drilling and the mud particles that followed all that water you see seeping in screws up the bonding process. Waterproofing membrane is the best IMO. Tell the builder you want a waterproofing company to fix it NOT the company that did the wall, make sure they tell you who it is first then call them yourself and find out what they do for a crack like you have. If he argues ask him for the name of the company that supplied the concrete and demand copies of the delivery slips (don't say why you want them). The truck driver will have written down how much additional water was added to the mix on site. The concrete company won't lie about the added water because this number is a get out jail free card for them, think about it, they delivered a 4000PSI mix and the foreman from the wall company changed it by adding more water. |
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I'm not here for a pissing match, just giving my 2 cents to a fellow arfcomer. I too do this for a living and a crack significant enough to leak water, full height of the wall, in the middle of a form, isn't something to ignore. Now granted I don't build homes but for what I do the inspectors I deal with would absolutely call us out on this. Doesn't mean we windup tearing down the wall but it wouldn't be ignored. And yes clearly the waterproofing wasn't applied correctly. Again doesn't appear to be of structural concern. Measure the crack width and monitor it. Take a sharpie and draw a line across it and monitor it for differential movement. Have the waterproofing corrected. Good luck with your new home and congrats! View Quote Move in and enjoy it. |
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My parents bought a house and had it for about 8 years before they discovered that there were major cracks in the foundation and basement wall. After some digging around, they discovered that the guy that inspected and signed off on it was a relative to the wife of the couple that sold it. The previous owner and contractor had died since the sale so there was nobody they could go after for it. House was condemned, they gave it back to the bank and are still digging their way out of the hole that put in their credit.
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I'm not here for a pissing match, just giving my 2 cents to a fellow arfcomer. I too do this for a living and a crack significant enough to leak water, full height of the wall, in the middle of a form, isn't something to ignore. Now granted I don't build homes but for what I do the inspectors I deal with would absolutely call us out on this. Doesn't mean we windup tearing down the wall but it wouldn't be ignored. And yes clearly the waterproofing wasn't applied correctly. Again doesn't appear to be of structural concern. Measure the crack width and monitor it. Take a sharpie and draw a line across it and monitor it for differential movement. Have the waterproofing corrected. Good luck with your new home and congrats! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I wouldn't call it insignificant but I agree that it doesn't look like it will cause any structural issues. And yes clearly the waterproofing wasn't applied correctly. Again doesn't appear to be of structural concern. Measure the crack width and monitor it. Take a sharpie and draw a line across it and monitor it for differential movement. Have the waterproofing corrected. Good luck with your new home and congrats! |
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Just saw this post, the so called site super is full of crap. In one or two years you're probably out of warranty. Your third pic of the exterior should have shown a drainage panel between the waterproofing and the soil View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Just saw this post, the so called site super is full of crap. In one or two years you're probably out of warranty. Your third pic of the exterior should have shown a drainage panel between the waterproofing and the soil Quoted:
Was the water leakage after the water proofing was applied? Quoted:
The waterproofing isn't the proper type, thickness, or application method. |
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My parents bought a house and had it for about 8 years before they discovered that there were major cracks in the foundation and basement wall. After some digging around, they discovered that the guy that inspected and signed off on it was a relative to the wife of the couple that sold it. The previous owner and contractor had died since the sale so there was nobody they could go after for it. House was condemned, they gave it back to the bank and are still digging their way out of the hole that put in their credit. View Quote |
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View Quote Reason I asked is because I have two questions if you are foundation guys. 1: How much should I expect to spend on fixing / stabilizing a house with roughly 2/3 of it on a crawlspace? (Corners of blocks are cracked) 2: Is this more common than not? I've looked around at a few places, and they ALL have some sort of cracks, and the one in the OP is very minor compared to what I have and what I've seen. |
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I'm not there to look at it, but just from the photos I would find it unacceptable. How much horizontal rebar was placed in the wall before the pour? If there was rebar, it should have controlled the cracking. If there is little to no rebar, I would walk away. At a minimum I would want #4's at 16" oc. in both directions. Hairline cracks will always happen in concrete.
Don't let the super or realtor push you into something. The only thing they care about is getting your money. |
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I have been talking to the sales lady. She said the site superintendent says it is fine and they will keep an eye on it to see if it leaks. I told her it is not acceptable and that it 100% needs to be epoxy filled before I buy the house. She then said I just have to talk to the site superintendent when I do my pre drywall inspection. Looks like I have a fight on my hands and the house is in volo IL so not in tornado alley. View Quote You should have an out prior or at drywall. Also, I'm sure your lender will not like the idea of a cracked and leaking foundation. They will tell the builder fix it or no funding. Then he will have to fix it for the next guy. |
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Crack got epoxy injected and the engineering report came back and the foundation is sound.
I'm on top of a hill so not near the water table gutters are not installed yet and final gradimg is not done. |
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https://i.imgur.com/W1svidJ.jpg That looks like a shrinkage crack. I don't see any displacement. It's not ideal but it will probably be okay with an injection to keep water out. Did the builder damp-proof the exterior and install proper footing drains? Freeze-thaw shouldn't affect it much, most of the wall is below frost depth. View Quote |
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When I built our first house, I had big learning experience. I subconsciously equated a new house to a new TV. Open the box take the TV out of the foam bag it's in and put the virgin TV on the wall. Not a speck of dust, no fingerprints, no nothing but virgin TV.
Not so much....... The building process is full of faults and something like your crack is perfectly normal. The important thing in my opinion is that the builder waterproofs the exterior of the wall with liquid asphalt or whatever they use. Just as important, if not more important, is drain tile. When we built our second home, our builder (custom stick built home) did the drainage himself. The drain lines were on both sides of the footer and led to the back of the foundation since we have a walkout. We have cracks but have never had any leaks or moisture of any sort. |
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Nothing like having evidence of a willful violation on your web site. http://integritywaterproofing.com/files/2013/05/three-step-sealing-process-300x198.jpghttp://integritywaterproofing.com/files/2013/05/installing-dimple-drainage-mat-300x225.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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What depth below ground level are the footings? What type of soil. Is there a French drain all around the house? If the footings are 5' or deeper you are below the frost line and the house should not move. If the contractor is willing to go the extra mile and repair the crack and properly waterproof the exterior of the foundation like in the link below I would have no problem with that. Link http://integritywaterproofing.com/files/2013/05/three-step-sealing-process-300x198.jpghttp://integritywaterproofing.com/files/2013/05/installing-dimple-drainage-mat-300x225.jpg |
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Being a non-construction guy, what am I looking at here? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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What depth below ground level are the footings? What type of soil. Is there a French drain all around the house? If the footings are 5' or deeper you are below the frost line and the house should not move. If the contractor is willing to go the extra mile and repair the crack and properly waterproof the exterior of the foundation like in the link below I would have no problem with that. Link http://integritywaterproofing.com/files/2013/05/three-step-sealing-process-300x198.jpghttp://integritywaterproofing.com/files/2013/05/installing-dimple-drainage-mat-300x225.jpg |
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How wide at top vs. bottom? Vertical crack, or diagonal? Any side-to-side displacement? At this stage, cracking looks really bad.
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I was just tossing around the idea of building a pole barn then a small house. I don't know squat about the building process and what to look for so threads like these make it seem like I'm just asking for trouble.
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Crack got epoxy injected and the engineering report came back and the foundation is sound. I'm on top of a hill so not near the water table gutters are not installed yet and final gradimg is not done. View Quote |
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OP your in IL, untrained Illegal Alien Labor...
Sanctuary State... Merica... Great isn't it... Better get a dehumidifier and keep all the shit you plan store in your basement elevated. |
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http://www.planetcalypsoforum.com/gallery/files/2/9/9/6/lulwut_thumb.jpg @1387Delta The trench is unsafe and needs to be: A. Sloped or benched to the proper requirements B. Have an adequate protective system installed Several other violations starting with...no competent person There is no duty to have fall protection around the trenches in the picture per OSHA, but it is advisable. View Quote |
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