User Panel
Posted: 1/27/2016 12:10:45 PM EDT
The SO and I just stumbled on 'our' first home 8 months in advance of our wedding. It was a foreclosure and is 'livable' but it's honestly gross and needs lots of work.
We got it for a great price and even with our <$80k renovation budget we will still be under what the house is worth by at least $40-50k. The SO wants to do 'vintage farmhouse' since her favorite show is 'Fixer Upper' on HGTV. Yay me I will be doing almost all of the work myself unless noted but I will be posting photos along the way. If anyone wants to provide input - go for it There are a few issues which need to be addressed immediately and there will be an order of operations to get things done for 'move-in'. We obviously need paint and floors to be able to at least drop our moving boxes into the rooms around the house, but in order to do paint and floors there is lots of demo and leak fixing to be done. The inspection came back great and nothing major needs to be done. The bulk of the leaks are coming from soffit and fascia rot on the exterior as well as a few holes in the stucco on the outside. I am taking 2.5 weeks off of work to complete much of the 'me' work in between the few contractors and hope to have this all done in 6 weeks max - some of it in the later phases may be worked on after move in so maybe 8-9 weeks for the outliers. Phase I: Install new deadbolts and door handles throughout Locksmith key whole house (locksmith) Patch stucco exterior (contractor) Soffit and fascia work roof (contractor) Demo interior walls Demo all tile/marble flooring Demo cabinets Demo a bunch of other crap Paint garage floor with epoxy coating Phase II: Relocate electrical outlets for TV's to mid-wall (contractor) Install recessed can lighting in master/kitchen (contractor) Drywall work Pressure cleaning exterior/pool screens/roof tiles Painting interior/exterior (painter) Phase III: Wood (laminate) flooring Baseboard install Crown molding install Fix chipped/broken/rotted interior door frames Kitchen cabinets/quartz install Appliance installs 1/2" Brick veneer flooring in kitchen and outside patio install (herringbone pattern ) Bathroom tile install Phase IIII: Landscaping Pool system work Build outdoor kitchen ...and probably more stuff I forgot. |
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Best of Luck! One suggestion, keying your own locks is easy with the kits you can get at Change-a-lock. I just did mine for the second time. Only about $15.00 to re-key six (6) locks
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6 weeks? Sorry, not being an ass, but I bought a house in May 2015 that was in better shape than yours and said I'd have it all done in 2 or 3 months. I'm not even close to that now... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Tagged for the fun. 6 weeks? Sorry, not being an ass, but I bought a house in May 2015 that was in better shape than yours and said I'd have it all done in 2 or 3 months. I'm not even close to that now... I know We'll see how much sleep and whiskey I need to make this happen. |
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Cool project! Looks like you have a lot of work in your future but seems like a good shell to start improvements from!
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Good luck!
I have 2 suggestions, based on our previous experiences. 1. If you are going to spend the money on a locksmith, get keyed deadbolts that have matching keyed padlocks. We bought 5 padlocks that match our housekey, and have already used them all. It's great not having to search for "which key opens the shed?" and "which key opens the back gate?" 2. If the wetbar is close to the kitchen, do it up with matching cabinets and counters. It makes a nice visual transition from one room to the next. In our current house, the previous homeowners redid the kitchen counters but left the wetbar (less than 20 feet away!) with its beautiful 1970s avocado-green laminate. |
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Good luck! I have 2 suggestions, based on our previous experiences. 1. If you are going to spend the money on a locksmith, get keyed deadbolts that have matching keyed padlocks. We bought 5 padlocks that match our housekey, and have already used them all. It's great not having to search for "which key opens the shed?" and "which key opens the back gate?" 2. If the wetbar is close to the kitchen, do it up with matching cabinets and counters. It makes a nice visual transition from one room to the next. In our current house, the previous homeowners redid the kitchen counters but left the wetbar (less than 20 feet away!) with its beautiful 1970s avocado-green laminate. View Quote Yes the bar top will match the kitchen - worst case scenario the kitchen will be quartz and all other counter tops throughout the home will be matching granite. And will search around the house for other locks to key...as of now the doors have the locks but not the gates. |
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like others have said, the locksmith is not needed. get these from Kwikset and do it yourself. it is extremely easy.
Link - http://www.handlesets.com/kwikset-sale/c8930 Good luck. I am still working on the one I bought in August. |
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I'm very interested in seeing how this goes for you. My wife and I want to do the same for our next home.
I feel like an idiot for asking this, but is the tile in front of the fireplace floating? |
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OP, are you getting permits for the work to be done? Have cabinets been ordered yet? Is $80K your budget or do you have monies in reserve? Does the house have a basement? If not and you are relocating electrical and plumbing for the kitchen island, that is almost a week between trades and inspections. Depending on where you are getting cabinets from, they are usually 4-6 weeks + alone. Countertops are a week after templating, How much of the main living area are you going to tile? If most of it, that can be a good three days of 2 men 8-9 hours a day. I haven't even begun to get into all the other details and issues that can arise.
I am a GC and the HGTV shows don't even begin to get into the details. PM me if you have any questions and I can share HGTV stories with you that you'd probably be . |
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OP, are you getting permits for the work to be done? Have cabinets been ordered yet? Is $80K your budget or do you have monies in reserve? Does the house have a basement? If not and you are relocating electrical and plumbing for the kitchen island, that is almost a week between trades and inspections. Depending on where you are getting cabinets from, they are usually 4-6 weeks + alone. Countertops are a week after templating, How much of the main living area are you going to tile? If most of it, that can be a good three days of 2 men 8-9 hours a day. I haven't even begun to get into all the other details and issues that can arise. I am a GC and the HGTV shows don't even begin to get into the details. PM me if you have any questions and I can share HGTV stories with you that you'd probably be . View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
OP, are you getting permits for the work to be done? Have cabinets been ordered yet? Is $80K your budget or do you have monies in reserve? Does the house have a basement? If not and you are relocating electrical and plumbing for the kitchen island, that is almost a week between trades and inspections. Depending on where you are getting cabinets from, they are usually 4-6 weeks + alone. Countertops are a week after templating, How much of the main living area are you going to tile? If most of it, that can be a good three days of 2 men 8-9 hours a day. I haven't even begun to get into all the other details and issues that can arise. I am a GC and the HGTV shows don't even begin to get into the details. PM me if you have any questions and I can share HGTV stories with you that you'd probably be . No we are not getting any permits as we don't need any for the work we are doing. I can image your GC stories Let me clarify ; the work that I will be doing I'm planning to finish in that timeframe. The work for the kitchen will likely extend past that with ordering times and etc. I will only be tiling about 500-600 sq ft total - the rest will be laminate done by a contractor for $1.25 per sf over the cost of materials. Quoted:
I'm very interested in seeing how this goes for you. My wife and I want to do the same for our next home. I feel like an idiot for asking this, but is the tile in front of the fireplace floating? Yes - in front of the fireplace is some sort of floating mantle That's getting knocked out and we're going to do a brick area in front of it directly on the floor. |
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In case anyone was wondering, HUD didn't pay the HOA dues for an entire 16 months while maintaining the property so we had to wait an additional 3 weeks to close while they cut the check and sent it by snail mail.
Should be swinging hammers by next Friday. |
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In case anyone was wondering, HUD didn't pay the HOA dues for an entire 16 months while maintaining the property so we had to wait an additional 3 weeks to close while they cut the check and sent it by snail mail. Should be swinging hammers by next Friday. View Quote Good luck. Looking forward to following the project. |
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Also went and picked up 150sf of tile for the guest and half baths and these boxes are HEAVY. We got this 'wood look' tile in rectangle shape for 1.09 per SF so it was a great deal. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7Cz4M8tfHko/VqwBqNWytJI/AAAAAAAANmg/FHM_F6J9lec/s640-Ic42/2016_01_29_19_19_36.jpg View Quote first level the floor and then use Ditra/DitraXL under those long tiles. http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=11 ar-jedi |
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first level the floor and then use Ditra/DitraXL under those long tiles. http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=11 ar-jedi View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Also went and picked up 150sf of tile for the guest and half baths and these boxes are HEAVY. We got this 'wood look' tile in rectangle shape for 1.09 per SF so it was a great deal. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7Cz4M8tfHko/VqwBqNWytJI/AAAAAAAANmg/FHM_F6J9lec/s640-Ic42/2016_01_29_19_19_36.jpg first level the floor and then use Ditra/DitraXL under those long tiles. http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=11 ar-jedi I saw this at Lowe's - what's the reason for using it? Do I need to use it even if I'm putting the tile straight on the foundation? Do you also recommend using the redgard sealant over the hardy board in the shower before I put the shower tile in? As of now I'm doing it in the corners with fiber tape. |
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These remodel posts always interest me.
I have a 1960s built lake cottage that had an add on in the 80s, and it is in bad need of a remodel. A question I always have is "Who can I get to look at my home and tell me if it is even worth the effort?" Don't know if I will sell or stay, so I would hate to sink $50k into a remodel and only be able to sell the place for $100k, when I could probably get $70K as it sits. |
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I saw this at Lowe's - what's the reason for using it? Do I need to use it even if I'm putting the tile straight on the foundation? Do you also recommend using the redgard sealant over the hardy board in the shower before I put the shower tile in? As of now I'm doing it in the corners with fiber tape. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Also went and picked up 150sf of tile for the guest and half baths and these boxes are HEAVY. We got this 'wood look' tile in rectangle shape for 1.09 per SF so it was a great deal. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7Cz4M8tfHko/VqwBqNWytJI/AAAAAAAANmg/FHM_F6J9lec/s640-Ic42/2016_01_29_19_19_36.jpg first level the floor and then use Ditra/DitraXL under those long tiles. http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=11 ar-jedi I saw this at Lowe's - what's the reason for using it? Do I need to use it even if I'm putting the tile straight on the foundation? Do you also recommend using the redgard sealant over the hardy board in the shower before I put the shower tile in? As of now I'm doing it in the corners with fiber tape. Ditra will prevent cracks in the tile. It allows minor movement of the substrate without the tile cracking. Great stuff. I like redgard and the similar products out there. I am in the process of building a house and will be tiling the shower soon. I used a paint on type of membrane on the concrete backer board. My last house had redgard over moisture resistant drywall. Not the ideal install but I never had a problem with it. Kept the backer drywall dry the entire time I owned the house (about 7 years) |
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These remodel posts always interest me. I have a 1960s built lake cottage that had an add on in the 80s, and it is in bad need of a remodel. A question I always have is "Who can I get to look at my home and tell me if it is even worth the effort?" Don't know if I will sell or stay, so I would hate to sink $50k into a remodel and only be able to sell the place for $100k, when I could probably get $70K as it sits. View Quote Do it yourself. Start looking at what houses are selling for in your area. Find similar houses and that'll give you a good idea what your place might be worth. |
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I saw this at Lowe's - what's the reason for using it? Do I need to use it even if I'm putting the tile straight on the foundation? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
I saw this at Lowe's - what's the reason for using it? Do I need to use it even if I'm putting the tile straight on the foundation? YES. first, i think you mean "slab" not "foundation", but i know where you are going. the concrete slab and your tiles have different mechanical characteristics, and the result of this is that you have to do *something* to decouple the tile from the concrete underlay. furthermore, it is likely that over time, the large slab will crack. in some cases cracking will be unavoidable. having a decoupling membrane helps prevent cracks in the concrete from propagating into the tiled surface. i would not lay tile on a fresh or old concrete surface without an intervening decoupling layer - this is the exact reason that products like DITRA exist. the slab does not even have to crack to cause problems with the tiles; the difference in thermal expansion properties of the concrete slab and tile will be enough to cause significant mechanical stresses, and ultimately cracked grout lines and/or cracked tiles. the bigger your tiled area, and the larger the tiles, the more you need a decoupling membrane. http://www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/floors not using a decoupling media just makes a costly effort (procuring and setting tiles) a waste, because fixing the problem(s) usually results in a complete do-over. Quoted:
Do you also recommend using the redgard sealant over the hardy board in the shower before I put the shower tile in? As of now I'm doing it in the corners with fiber tape. YES. ... you must waterproof the shower walls. this is written into building codes nowadays, for example you can no longer simply use "moisture resistant" gypsum board (sheetrock) behind tile exposed to direct water spray. it is true that water does not go through the tile. but the tile grout, water will go through. this is guaranteed. folks assume a tiled surface (vertical or horizontal, doesn't matter) is impervious to water. It is not, because the grout lines "leak". for this reason, when constructing (for example) a shower wall, you either need to use an impervious backer (e.g. Kerdi, DensShield, etc) or use a CBU backer with a waterproofing liquid (e.g. Redguard or Hydroban over Durock or Hardiboard). water (more specifically, moisture) that gets behind the tile has three ways out: evaporation back through the grout, collecting and draining down into the pan (fiberglass base) or pan liner (mud base), and finally *but not desirable* wicking into the surrounding framing. the last leads to mold and structural degradation. showers without an impervious backer or applied waterproofing basically rely on the CBU simply drying out into the wall cavity. while the CBU itself is not prone to mold, it does hold a lot of water and will eventually become saturated. older methods of shower construction have the CBU attached to the framing over a vapor barrier (poly sheet or 15# felt). while a "barrier", it is still perforated in many places by attachment screws or nails, and the now-saturated CBU simply "leaks" into the supporting framing. for the above reason, modern shower construction is such that you first need to accept that the grout lines will leak, and thus the conclusion is to ensure that the moisture goes no farther "in" than the thinset under the tile. the only way to accomplish this is to use an impervious to water surface directly under the tiles -- Kerdi, DensShield, Redguard, HydroBan, etc. -- and make sure that at the bottom of everything there is a way to capture water from behind the wall tiles and direct it to the drain (again, using a fiberglass one pice pan, or using Shluter's top membrane shower system, or using a traditional mud base sloped rubber membrane which comes up the walls at least 4-6" above the curb). moreover, hardiboard -- like most CBU's -- sucks water from the applied thinset. this decreases bond strength. so, by applying HydroBan or Redguard over the backing, you prevent the backer from rapidly pulling moisture out of the drying thinset, and in turn that increases adhesion between the tile and the wall surface. again, you need to consider what is at stake -- waterproofing membrane (Kerdi, etc) and liquid (HydroBan or Redguard, etc) may seem expensive, but a leaking or moldy shower requires a complete do-over with almost no possibility of saved tiles and 150% more labor (demolition and resetting of new tile.) nowhere does the saying, "an ounce of prevention equals a pound of cure" apply more than in tilework. ar-jedi |
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The install and specs of ditra are pretty much what I suspected - that's good to know I will definately spend the extra money and put it down first - as well as redgard the enture durock layer under my shower tiles.
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PLEASE go to www.johnbridge.com before you lay any tile in your shower. They are a good bunch and can save you some heartache.
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You have tons of work.......I love it !
Enjoy and keep the pictures coming. It is fun to watch. |
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I'll be putting in some offers in the next few months on a foreclosure fixer upper...... So, by defaut, you are now leader of my motivational team. |
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Damn man, you've been Busy!!!!
Looking good. I have never seen that done to a pool. I bought mine out of foreclosure, and the pool was wide open and nasty. |
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Op, I had some issues with my sophit on my old house and it was because the previous gutter guy did a piss poor job slopping the gutters and didn't put enough down spouts in. It looks like you may have the same problem.
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Op, I had some issues with my sophit on my old house and it was because the previous gutter guy did a piss poor job slopping the gutters and didn't put enough down spouts in. It looks like you may have the same problem. View Quote The problem with this roof we found out is that the plywood underneath the felt underpayment stops 1/2" before the fascia starts. Don't know what retard made this roof but we're getting metal flashing sealed into the edges underneath the first row of tiles to fix the soffit rot issues. |
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Put down some ditra with LFT mortar for my 9x20 tiles. ... Tommorow I will grout that and then installed the new toilet on top of it. View Quote just a heads up -- give that setup at least a few days to fully dry before walking on it and grouting.,. you are using Mapei LFT? that is a polymer (latex/acrylic) modified thinset, and modified thinsets generally reach full "cure" by drying out, just like latex or acrylic paint does; this is in contrast to unmodified thinsets which cure only by the chemical reaction of the portland cement. i advise you of this because the moisture currently in the LFT thinset -- when trapped between the non-permeable Ditra and the (mostly non-permeable) tiles -- has no where to go right now. it can't dry out and cure as quickly as you'd think because it is held between two materials which by definition do not accept moisture. see http://www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/faq/ditra-ditraxl-tile-thin-set-mortar-type and also see the "limitations" section of http://www.mapei.com/public/US/products/Ultraflex_LFT_EN_lr.pdf additional reading: http://floorelf.com/modified-thinset-a-brief-history http://floorelf.com/unmodified-thinsets-a-users-guide summary: ANY time you have two non-permeable surfaces mated, use an unmodified thinset (sometimes callled "dry set" mortar). (Mapei KeraBond, Laticrete 272/317, Bostik DITRA-set, TEC Full Set Plus, etc) ar-jedi |
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just a heads up -- give that setup at least a few days to fully dry before walking on it and grouting.,. you are using Mapei LFT? that is a polymer (latex/acrylic) modified thinset, and modified thinsets generally reach full "cure" by drying out, just like latex or acrylic paint does; this is in contrast to unmodified thinsets which cure only by the chemical reaction of the portland cement. i advise you of this because the moisture currently in the LFT thinset -- when trapped between the non-permeable Ditra and the (mostly non-permeable) tiles -- has no where to go right now. it can't dry out and cure as quickly as you'd think because it is held between two materials which by definition do not accept moisture. see http://www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/faq/ditra-ditraxl-tile-thin-set-mortar-type and also see the "limitations" section of http://www.mapei.com/public/US/products/Ultraflex_LFT_EN_lr.pdf additional reading: http://floorelf.com/modified-thinset-a-brief-history http://floorelf.com/unmodified-thinsets-a-users-guide summary: ANY time you have two non-permeable surfaces mated, use an unmodified thinset (sometimes callled "dry set" mortar). (Mapei KeraBond, Laticrete 272/317, Bostik DITRA-set, TEC Full Set Plus, etc) ar-jedi http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQPe1f63mSY View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Put down some ditra with LFT mortar for my 9x20 tiles. ... Tommorow I will grout that and then installed the new toilet on top of it. just a heads up -- give that setup at least a few days to fully dry before walking on it and grouting.,. you are using Mapei LFT? that is a polymer (latex/acrylic) modified thinset, and modified thinsets generally reach full "cure" by drying out, just like latex or acrylic paint does; this is in contrast to unmodified thinsets which cure only by the chemical reaction of the portland cement. i advise you of this because the moisture currently in the LFT thinset -- when trapped between the non-permeable Ditra and the (mostly non-permeable) tiles -- has no where to go right now. it can't dry out and cure as quickly as you'd think because it is held between two materials which by definition do not accept moisture. see http://www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/faq/ditra-ditraxl-tile-thin-set-mortar-type and also see the "limitations" section of http://www.mapei.com/public/US/products/Ultraflex_LFT_EN_lr.pdf additional reading: http://floorelf.com/modified-thinset-a-brief-history http://floorelf.com/unmodified-thinsets-a-users-guide summary: ANY time you have two non-permeable surfaces mated, use an unmodified thinset (sometimes callled "dry set" mortar). (Mapei KeraBond, Laticrete 272/317, Bostik DITRA-set, TEC Full Set Plus, etc) ar-jedi http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQPe1f63mSY I did not use Mapei LFT - I used Mapei uncoupling membrane mortar without polymer added. The tiles sat for 18 hours before I grouted them. They're solid - I'm not worried. I will wait a full 24 hours in the next room. |
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I did not use Mapei LFT - I used Mapei uncoupling membrane mortar without polymer added. The tiles sat for 18 hours before I grouted them. View Quote ok, so ignore EVERYTHING i wrote above --> you got it spot on with the right mortar type for setting tile atop DITRA and you're good to go. nice work btw, it's coming along nicely. ar-jedi |
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Put up durock in that office bath before tiling it. This will be our only functioning shower before I tackle the master shower which youll see below. I will be putting mortar/fiberglass tape along the durock seems and then using redgard over them to seal it....maybe redgard the entire walls? https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fWKH6YVCa5s/VuD6YYP897I/AAAAAAAANzg/taUOPYg7vYI/s640-Ic42/2016_03_09_23_38_56.jpg My question is this for anyone reading: this shower was the original from the home built in 1988 and it has no shower liner underneath the cement shower pan on the floor. If I just use redgard or shluter kerdi tape to seal the durock to the surrounding shower area and graded concrete pan below should I be OK? As long as 2x4 wood and drywall isn't getting wet - right? Here's what it looks like: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zft98VaFGxI/VuD6fOr61DI/AAAAAAAANzg/UMs8wWhy45E/s640-Ic42/2016_03_09_23_39_22.jpg View Quote shower walls: CBU (cementitious backer unit) like PermaBase or Durock etc is not waterproof; it is true that it does not degrade when wet, but it is not waterproof. most folks assume that a tiled surface (vertical or horizontal, doesn't matter) is impervious to water. It is not, because the grout lines "leak".for this reason, when constructing (for example) a shower wall, you either need to use an impervious backer (e.g. Kerdi, DensShield, etc) or use a CBU backer in conjunction with a waterproofing liquid (e.g. Redguard or Hydroban over Durock or PermaBase). water (more specifically, moisture) that gets behind the tile has three ways out: evaporation back through the grout, collecting and draining down into the pan (fiberglass base) or pan liner (mud base), and finally *but not desirable* wicking into the surrounding framing. the last leads to mold and structural degradation. showers without an impervious backer or waterproofing liquid basically rely on the CBU simply drying out into the wall cavity. while the CBU itself is not prone to mold, it does hold a lot of water and will eventually become saturated. older methods of shower construction had the CBU attached to the framing over a vapor barrier (poly sheet or 15# felt). while a "barrier", it is still perforated in many places by attachment screws or nails, and the now-saturated CBU simply "leaks" into the supporting framing (usually in conjunction with rusting the nails/screws, so eventually the CBU is loose on the wall). For the above reason, modern shower construction is such that you first need to accept that the grout lines will leak, and thus the conclusion is to ensure that the moisture goes no farther "in" than the thinset under the tile. the only way to reliably accomplish this is to use an impervious-to-water surface directly under the tiles -- Kerdi, DensShield, Redguard, HydroBan, etc. -- and make sure that at the bottom of everything there is a way to capture water from behind the wall tiles and direct it to the drain (again, using Shluter's shower system, or a traditional mud base sloped rubber membrane which comes up the walls at least 4-6"). so with PermaBase (etc) on the shower walls your options include 1) Redguard/Hydroban every square inch, or 2) apply Kerdi or other waterproof membrane using thinset. In general, rolling out Redguard/Hydroban will be easier -- except for the fact that... shower floor: your shower floor presents a bit of an issue, assuming you want to tile it. it does not appear to have pre-slope to the drain, and this will lead to complications. you should investigate whether you can use a Schluter drain setup to mate with the existing drain pipe, in conjunction with a pre-formed Schluter foam shower base. apply Kerdi on top the foam, and then you can set the floor tile. the basic problem is what to do at the interface of the wall to the floor; generally this is an area that would be transitioned from vertical to horizontal with strips of Kerdi. this however implies you also do the walls with Kerdi membrane, though. the nice part about the Schluter drain setup is that it is designed to be usable "top access only" in slab floor applications. otherwise, get a fiberglass shower floor pan and you are GTG. see also http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1843214_Bathroom_Remodel_disaster.html&page=3#i58526097 and http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1843214_Bathroom_Remodel_disaster.html&page=3#i58526337 ar-jedi |
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View Quote I will be doing the first shower with permabase/redgard(aquagard) and I will probbaly do a shluter shower pan and curb system if I can figure out a way to extend the drain up over it with the shluter drain system...somehow |
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I'm enjoying your thread.
I don't like the brick veneer floor. I think it looks tacky. If your wife likes, I guess that's what is important anyway. |
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let me guess -- there was no pre-slope on the rubber liner, correct? ar-jedi http://www.davehennessey.com/showerpanman/design.jpg http://floorelf.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/shower_cutaway.gif View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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So the installers built this shower over the flat foundation as opposed to the other two showers which are sunken and formed into the home's slab. They installed a curb made of 2x4's and put a shower waterproofing mat over it. So far so good - right? Until i tried to take up the shower tile and found this: let me guess -- there was no pre-slope on the rubber liner, correct? ar-jedi http://www.davehennessey.com/showerpanman/design.jpg http://floorelf.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/shower_cutaway.gif Nope - no pre-slope. Just flat boards. I went to replace the moisture/fume vent fan above the shower area today in the attic and found the installers did not install any pipe out of the roof for it - it's just venting into the attic Quoted:
I'm enjoying your thread. I don't like the brick veneer floor. I think it looks tacky. If your wife likes, I guess that's what is important anyway. Yes, she does This is the finished idea after white-washing: |
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