[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Let’s make an AER9 Laser Rifle clone from the Fallout Game (4th PSA Space Force Lower Build) (Page 3 of 5)
|
Quoted: The only thing you should fire out of it are either red or green tracer rounds. This is actually a great idea! Green for the win! The 300BLK BRN-180 has a unique barrel nut/ shim combo that ensures barrel concentricity (I think I spelled that right). The thick steel shim sits inside the outer nut (sorta bulky), which allows for timing of the retro flash hider. I made sure to keep this assembly in play and built the front shroud around it (PITA). Not very visible, but I installed a 5/8x24 thread protector that can be removed from the front without removing the rail. I will need to make a short barrel extension (maybe 3/4-1"), but a suppressor could be added. I wonder if 300blk green tracers would light with subs? There is a small space about 1"x 1" x 1.75" behind the front shroud at the bottom. Adding a green laser would also be worth considering. Especially if I could make momentarily activate each time a round was fired, say 1.5-2 seconds burst. That combined with a tracer round would look nuts. |
|
THE HAND GRIP ASSEMBLY Haven’t quite figured out what I want to do with the upper receiver area yet. Not really interested in cutting it up, Brownell’s doesn’t offer that part for sale individually if I make a mistake. Nor do I want to just strap stuff to the picatinny rail, which I think would take away from the overall design (I actually don't want a visible picatinny rail at all). While I have a few ideas, and one failed attempt so far concerning the rear rail assembly, I decided to change gears and work on the grip. The lower hand grip isn’t something I could have bought and/or modified, I had to make it. This took a lot longer than expected considering the look of the finished product. I started with a 2.5”x1” x5” block of 6061 and started machining.  Getting the angle close to 45 degrees to match the Laser rifle was a pain. The mounting screw is offset, and tough to tighten up at that angle. Not only did I need this hand grip to frame the mount bolt and safety detent spring, I planned a semi-hidden locking platform for a stock if I SBR the lower. The grip will house a ratchet latch via port openings at the bottom (think head rest post in a car). I still have some chatter in my mill, but as the rifle will eventually be aged to look worn, I'm gonna hold off on adjusting things tighter to see if it helps with the "worn" look.  The larger ¼” screws shown at the base of the grip are for test fitting the posts needed for the stock. If/ when I build the stock, I will use a dual post design (stainless or maybe brass), which pushes into the bottom of the grip and locks into place (see illustrated rifle sample drawing of the stock). This should be strong enough for horizontal recoil and match the game rifle design closely without a bunch of external parts. You can see the three piece latching catch assembly (slide, detent spring, & stabilizer).Tthe hidden push release plunger hole in just in front of the slide at the front of the grip. The flat head spanner screws are 6-32 and will mount a cover plate to each side of the grip to closely match the game design.  |
|
THE HAND GRIP ASSEMBLY Continuing on with the grip, below are pics of the side cover plates. I originally wanted to make the covers out of a single piece of aluminum per side. But as I have mentioned before, I don't have a CNC mill, and working radiuses or circle cuts by hand is not something I'm capable of. I first made two thin plates from aluminum stock, then lathed and parted four discs to replicate the 1” spanners screws used in the game gun. I then used an aluminum brazing rod to fuse the rounds onto the plates.  The right side view better shows the wonky angle of the mounting bolt. Which can be tightened up with a hex driver slid through the front post mount hole at the base. The ¼” temp screws show how the latch assembly works once the posts are made for the stock, along with the release hole for a push tool to release the stock. There is a bit of an overhang on the lower receiver near the rear trigger guard. Since I have an idea of the trigger guard I plan to install, those stubs will likely be trimmed at an angle to match the guard and blend the grip area better.  I ran a blood groove down the front and rear of the grip for more “bite”, the finished aluminum was slick as snot.  |
|
Quoted: Continuing on with the grip, below are pics of the side cover plates. I originally wanted to make the covers out of a single piece of aluminum per side. But as I have mentioned before, I don't have a CNC mill, and working radiuses or circle cuts by hand is not something I'm capable of. I first made two thin plates from aluminum stock, then lathed and parted four discs to replicate the 1” spanners screws used in the game gun. I then used an aluminum brazing rod to fuse the rounds onto the plates. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51365620462_76b2f10768_c.jpg The right side view better shows the wonky angle of the mounting bolt. Which can be tightened up with a hex driver slid through the front post mount hole at the base. The ¼” temp screws show how the latch assembly works once the posts are made for the stock, along with the release hole for a push tool to release the stock. There is a bit of an overhang on the lower receiver near the rear trigger guard. Since I have an idea of the trigger guard I plan to install, those stubs will likely be trimmed at an angle to match the guard and blend the grip area better. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51366597348_18d0f88a50_c.jpg I ran a blood groove down the front and rear of the grip for more “bite”, the finished aluminum was slick as snot. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51366379591_13783f9a6e_c.jpg Gorgeous |
|
Quoted: This is actually a great idea! Green for the win! The 300BLK BRN-180 has a unique barrel nut/ shim combo that ensures barrel concentricity (I think I spelled that right). The thick steel shim sits inside the outer nut (sorta bulky), which allows for timing of the retro flash hider. I made sure to keep this assembly in play and built the front shroud around it (PITA). Not very visible, but I installed a 5/8x24 thread protector that can be removed from the front without removing the rail. I will need to make a short barrel extension (maybe 3/4-1"), but a suppressor could be added. I wonder if 300blk green tracers would light with subs? There is a small space about 1"x 1" x 1.75" behind the front shroud at the bottom. Adding a green laser would also be worth considering. Especially if I could make momentarily activate each time a round was fired, say 1.5-2 seconds burst. That combined with a tracer round would look nuts. Quoted: Quoted: The only thing you should fire out of it are either red or green tracer rounds. This is actually a great idea! Green for the win! The 300BLK BRN-180 has a unique barrel nut/ shim combo that ensures barrel concentricity (I think I spelled that right). The thick steel shim sits inside the outer nut (sorta bulky), which allows for timing of the retro flash hider. I made sure to keep this assembly in play and built the front shroud around it (PITA). Not very visible, but I installed a 5/8x24 thread protector that can be removed from the front without removing the rail. I will need to make a short barrel extension (maybe 3/4-1"), but a suppressor could be added. I wonder if 300blk green tracers would light with subs? There is a small space about 1"x 1" x 1.75" behind the front shroud at the bottom. Adding a green laser would also be worth considering. Especially if I could make momentarily activate each time a round was fired, say 1.5-2 seconds burst. That combined with a tracer round would look nuts. I have no experience with tracer rounds and I'm sure someone from a free state could better answer your questions about them. All I want is a video when you are done. 
|
|
BACK SECTION OF THE UPPER RAIL So let’s talk about that back section of the upper rail (over the upper receiver), to match the game gun. I originally planned to machine a slot into the left hand side of the BRN-180 upper receiver, turning it into a left handed charging system (still ejecting on the right hand side). I know this would be a pro for right handed folks, as the BRN-180 has a completely uncomfortable charging handle design (yes I know it’s “retro”, I still hate it). Cutting the extruded upper receiver wouldn’t be a huge deal, aside from not being able to get a replacement part if screwed it up. However, after messing with the bolt carrier, I'm not convinced machining it would be a smart move, I feel it would weaken it significantly, including a possible shift in weight distribution from the original design. I will need to figure out a different charging system, the factory style charging handle is a no-go. As I wrote earlier, I don't want a visible picatinny rail, but if I machine it off like I have other upper builds in the past, it will not work with this design (plus I would be back to not being able to source a replacement). The more I consider the thought of a stripped down BRN-180 upper being able to just slide into an entire full length “shelled” upper rail, the more I liked it. So I stuck with the decision to build an upper receiver sleeve styled cover. The first attempt at a rear sleeve didn’t turn out well at all. For rigidity I tried to machine the outer surfaces of a 2.5” x 1.5” section of 1/4” thick aluminum rectangle tube. The bottom didn’t fit well, and there was a gap between the rail and BRN upper. I cut it down to try to shape the bottom to the upper (the BRN-180 has a taper to meet a mil-spec lower). The end result looked cheap. It’s noticeable that I took it to the belt sander trying to make it fit. I had to scrap it and start over.   To build the full length rail, I used the barrel rail block as my mounting point for both the front and rear sections. This time I machined three individual pieces separately and fit them together. This should be just as strong, as the 90 degree corners of the metal overlap and double, well maybe. This has the added benefit of keeping with the boxed look of the game rifle on the underside near the lower receiver mount point (the first attempt was open at the bottom). It is not visible in the photo, but internally the left and right side angled top corners fit flush against the picatinny rail, with the top section fitting flat against the rail as well. I machined each side with a 45 degree dovetail to press under the base of the picatinny rail, its is a slide fit, and does not move.  The six spanner screws shown above mount the upper receiver cover directly to the rail block. The entire BRN-180 upper slides into the upper rail assembly from the back, through the rail block, and is held in place with the set screw from the BRN-180 Gen 2 design. So the entire upper rail, front and rear, free float with only two mounting points, the barrel rail block set screw, and the rear receiver end plate (not shown). The pic below compares the BRN-180 10.5” upper to the AER9 upper rail assembly. The lower pic demonstrates how the BRN-180 slides in the upper rail with a cut to accommodate the ejection port hinge posts (not fully seated in this pic). I will reuse the dust cover mounts on the BRN-180, but I will NOT be using the original dust cover (cause its fugly as sin). The ejection port opening has been squared to help it look a bit better than the oddball cuts in the factory BRN upper.  Garand Thumb did a review on the BRN-180 not long ago. One of his only major complaints was the large exposed space behind the BCG when the dust cover is down, lots of potential for debris. Not that this build will ever be a battle rifle, but I’m going to address the ejection port and cover concern while blending it to match the upper rail.  |
|
BOLT CATCH ASSEMBLY I decided to build the bolt catch next. I’m not sure exactly what the lever is on the game rifle (circled below), safety maybe? It is near the trigger on the game pic, but I am replicating this part to work as a bolt catch assembly.  I need the catch to be large enough to work with the design, but not be so large as to require removal when installing the upper. I haven’t started working on the end plate yet, but my design plan is a slight “slide fit” to engage and lock the upper and lower assemblies correctly. Not the same way a regular lower and upper mount together vertically. The best way I can describe it would be to start from the back end, engaging the end plate to the upper, then rotated the front of the upper and lower together pushing the lower forward locking everything together. I decided to go with brass for the button. I’m learning brass stock machines very differently than other metals. It is softer than aluminum, but also heavier and holds heat longer. I didn’t have a bit small enough the cut the grooves in the release, so I did this by hand with a Dremel cutoff wheel. I milled the backside out to lighten it up. The toughest part of the entire bolt catch assembly was drilling through the hardened BCM catch I used to mount the button It took forever, and I killed two bits, thus the rough front side. Thankfully that will get sprayed with Cerakote and covered by the button. I ended up using a Diamond Dremel bit to break through the heat treated surface so the bits could cut. The release looks pretty big just sitting on the lower without the upper for reference, but against the upper rail assembly I think it will work.  Below is the first image of the lower and upper mated together. I still need to design and build the rear cover plate, charging assembly, optic (energy cell), and a few other odds and ends. 
|
|
LOWER END PLATE ASSEMBLY I had to get creative with the rear end plate design. It needed to do the same job as most end plates, holding the detent spring, but not needed for a buffer system with this build. I used a Spikes Tactical end plate plug (I think they use em for their older 22LR upper deign). It will work for my needs, and has the benefit of a QD sling mount ( A good thing, I’m not building any other type of mount for a sling). I got to work on cutting down a 5/8” thick chunk of aluminum. I drilled completely through the block and threaded it for a lathed down screw, to keep the block from rotating. This fits the lower like any other end plate.  Machined out the inside of the rear plate. You can see on the test fit, the lightened buffer tube nut. Also a brass socket head to match whatever that thing is on the back of the game rifle. Not enough room for fins to match the game rifle, I will need to figure something out. Also will need to turn down the button heads screws on the right side, they over hang a bit.  I turned down the 4/40 screws that hold the extension arm. The arm is for aesthetics only, designed to complete the underside of the upper where it was machined for the dust cover. I also milled a few half circle cuts in the back plate to replicate the fin locations. And I made the brass screw look a bit more like the knob from the game.  Below shows the back plate mounted to the lower, this shows the forward recess grove which will fit into the upper receiver rail. The magwell area of the lower (top rib for detent spring), keeps the extension arm in check, it cannot be forced down as it sits against the ribl. The front tip of the extension arm sits behind the upper rail assembly, so it isn’t going anywhere once together.  Below is a pic of how the upper and lower are mated together. Not perfect, but once I figure out what I want to do with the dust cover, it should blend well.  |
|
MAGAZINE RELEASE BUTTON & BRASS UPPER RAIL INSERT Not a big update today, I drilled through the lower rod tube on the bottom part of the front upper, inserting a brass rod through the center. Not directly referencing the game rifle, I just needed to add a bit of brass along the bottom to help tie things together. I may also machine the base plate of the magazine from brass, not sure yet though.  I spent a lot of time searching for a mag release that might best fit the theme. I ordered the Strike Industries ambi mag release (it has cuts that closely match the painted arrows on the theme rifle design). Even before I painted the part I noticed the ambi side button would stick open, this got worse after Cerakote. I took the roll pin out and worked with it, this seems to either be a bad part, or a design flaw. If the button sticks open, the mag will not seat, or it will randomly drop free. I'm familiar with the Troy Ambi version which is dependent on the milspec spring (I use them, and like them). The SI mag release is a no-go for me, I’ve used other SI parts on theme builds prior, zero issues, this time I got a lemon.  My alternative was to machine a dovetail slot sideways into a standard milspec magazine release lever to fit a section of brass. I also made a larger mag release button from brass. I think these turned out better in brass after aging with Cerakote, verses parts painted yellow and green.  |
|
CHARGING HANDLE & DUST COVER On the game rifle the release handle for the “energy cell” is on the left hand side upper receiver. I hoped this area would work for a left handed charging system idea I was playing with (didn’t do it, reasons listed prior). I decided to flip this part of the game rifle to the other side of the rifle, making it useful by incorporating it into the charging handle assembly.  The factory BRN-180 “retro” charging handle is just flat out hideous. I’m a lefty and I still hate it. A few companies are manufacturing straight handles, better, but I read these are problematic as they snag the dust cover (which is also completely hideous).  Playing around with the plastic dust cover, I figured if the spring can hold the cover open, then it can hold the cover closed if flip backward and loaded with a rotation in the opposite direction. The benefit, this could potentially keep dust out of the ejection port, and maybe look better. I ended up working through four different dust covers before I got one that I liked. Drilling an 1/8” hole for the cover rod straight over the length of four and a quarter inches is tougher than it looks. The dust cover needs to actuate properly with the charging handle, thus the front angled beveled cut in toward the front end.  To match the theme and to make a charging handle that didn’t suck, I decided to build a unique spring loaded folding unit. Sort of like the charging handles found on FNH rifles (FS2000). This will function folded and/ or pulled back, and snaps closed. The base is angled to reciprocate against the dust cover. I won’t lie, this took some time to figure out, and I have no guaranties it will work when I test fire the rifle, but in theory and in cycling dummy rounds, it’s GTG so far. I will likely need to source a stronger spring; the one I found to use is a little light. I will also need to build the base of the charging handle a tad taller, adding more meat near the rotation screw (drilled too close to the outer edge, a weak spot in that design). I ended up with a total of six parts not including pins. If I owned a CNC machine, I could get it down to four parts, no pins, including the spring.  The charging handle installs and removes the same way the original BRN-180 charging handle does.  Sorry for the shaky video, I had a hard time holding the phone and testing the handle at the same time.  BrickWurX Mfg. / AER9 Fallout Laser Rifle - Charging handle function test |
|
Quoted: CHARGING HANDLE & DUST COVER On the game rifle the release handle for the “energy cell” is on the left hand side upper receiver. I hoped this area would work for a left handed charging system idea I was playing with (didn’t do it, reasons listed prior). I decided to flip this part of the game rifle to the other side of the rifle, making it useful by incorporating it into the charging handle assembly. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51403974377_25e3118376_c.jpg The factory BRN-180 “retro” charging handle is just flat out hideous. I’m a lefty and I still hate it. A few companies are manufacturing straight handles, better, but I read these are problematic as they snag the dust cover (which is also completely hideous). https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51404988433_8d59c83dc7_c.jpg Playing around with the plastic dust cover, I figured if the spring can hold the cover open, then it can hold the cover closed if flip backward and loaded with a rotation in the opposite direction. The benefit, this could potentially keep dust out of the ejection port, and maybe look better. I ended up working through four different dust covers before I got one that I liked. Drilling an 1/8” hole for the cover rod straight over the length of four and a quarter inches is tougher than it looks. The dust cover needs to actuate properly with the charging handle, thus the front angled beveled cut in toward the front end. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51404989018_a7f9d011b0_b.jpg To match the theme and to make a charging handle that didn’t suck, I decided to build a unique spring loaded folding unit. Sort of like the charging handles found on FNH rifles (FS2000). This will function folded and/ or pulled back, and snaps closed. The base is angled to reciprocate against the dust cover. I won’t lie, this took some time to figure out, and I have no guaranties it will work when I test fire the rifle, but in theory and in cycling dummy rounds, it’s GTG so far. I will likely need to source a stronger spring; the one I found to use is a little light. I will also need to build the base of the charging handle a tad taller, adding more meat near the rotation screw (drilled too close to the outer edge, a weak spot in that design). I ended up with a total of six parts not including pins. If I owned a CNC machine, I could get it down to four parts, no pins, including the spring. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51404988923_27328335dc_c.jpg The charging handle installs and removes the same way the original BRN-180 charging handle does. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51404724356_2943bc9f3e_b.jpg Sorry for the shaky video, I had a hard time holding the phone and testing the handle at the same time.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ctExYXCQnYkYeah boi! |
|
Quoted: Relevant to my interests. New Vegas was the last (and best) Fallout game I am willing to acknowledge. Attached File |
|
Optics and mounts sit high on an AR-15 based on the design of the buffer tube assembly. Which makes good sense when considering the original carry handle layout. Sans a carry handle, lowering the optic to better align with the bore seems smart, but causes the cheek weld to be uncomfortable. The higher offset works, higher still / when running nods. But a high offset optic mount is not really needed for an upper without a buffer tube. If I do end up SBR’ing the lower, the stock would mount to the base of the grip, so I have no reason to keep the optic high. Honestly the lower I build the optic and mount, the better this will work for the theme, I am painting the red dot to match an energy cell. I need a 30mm center tube with a rotatable clamp style mount for my design. I can upgrade to a better optic like the Aimpont Pro or Vortex Strikefire later, but for now I selected the Sightmark Element. While cheaper, I didn’t buy it specifically for the price, it will actually look better than the others once painted (more evenly cylindrical with mount). I also won’t cringe to badly when I lock it into a mill vise, or toss it in the oven for two hours at 180 degree (we will see if it holds up).  Nothing in 30mm rings are commercially available to sit as low as I needed, or that would engage all three sections of the rear upper sleeve for stability. Rotating the 30mm mount that came with the Sightmark to the right hand side, I machined it down and made a lower block the mount will rest on, floating just barely above the rail. Drilling through the mounts and increasing the mounting screws to 8-32 1" socket head SS, the screws run through both parts of the mount into the threaded lower block. The block mounts to the right hand side of the sleeve, and also into the top section of the rail from underneath. The lower block also holds the back end of the brass decorative heat sink which floats along the front rail (intending to make that oversized “+” selector knob on the optic resemble the game knob for wiring control). The front ring mount is locked to the top rail on both sides from underneath, binding all three plates together. I loaded the Sightmark into the mill and machined down adjustment dust covers, and also the protective fins. I then made a rear reticle tube sleeve from scrap aluminum pieces to better match the game design. Once these parts are painted, they should fit the bill and bring things tougher (maybe not very convincing as is).  |
|
Quoted: CHARGING HANDLE & DUST COVER On the game rifle the release handle for the “energy cell” is on the left hand side upper receiver. I hoped this area would work for a left handed charging system idea I was playing with (didn’t do it, reasons listed prior). I decided to flip this part of the game rifle to the other side of the rifle, making it useful by incorporating it into the charging handle assembly. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51403974377_25e3118376_c.jpg The factory BRN-180 “retro” charging handle is just flat out hideous. I’m a lefty and I still hate it. A few companies are manufacturing straight handles, better, but I read these are problematic as they snag the dust cover (which is also completely hideous). https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51404988433_8d59c83dc7_c.jpg Playing around with the plastic dust cover, I figured if the spring can hold the cover open, then it can hold the cover closed if flip backward and loaded with a rotation in the opposite direction. The benefit, this could potentially keep dust out of the ejection port, and maybe look better. I ended up working through four different dust covers before I got one that I liked. Drilling an 1/8” hole for the cover rod straight over the length of four and a quarter inches is tougher than it looks. The dust cover needs to actuate properly with the charging handle, thus the front angled beveled cut in toward the front end. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51404989018_a7f9d011b0_b.jpg To match the theme and to make a charging handle that didn’t suck, I decided to build a unique spring loaded folding unit. Sort of like the charging handles found on FNH rifles (FS2000). This will function folded and/ or pulled back, and snaps closed. The base is angled to reciprocate against the dust cover. I won’t lie, this took some time to figure out, and I have no guaranties it will work when I test fire the rifle, but in theory and in cycling dummy rounds, it’s GTG so far. I will likely need to source a stronger spring; the one I found to use is a little light. I will also need to build the base of the charging handle a tad taller, adding more meat near the rotation screw (drilled too close to the outer edge, a weak spot in that design). I ended up with a total of six parts not including pins. If I owned a CNC machine, I could get it down to four parts, no pins, including the spring. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51404988923_27328335dc_c.jpg The charging handle installs and removes the same way the original BRN-180 charging handle does. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51404724356_2943bc9f3e_b.jpg Sorry for the shaky video, I had a hard time holding the phone and testing the handle at the same time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ctExYXCQnYkBrownells needs this dust cover on all their BRN-180s right fucking now!!! I need one for my BRN right now too!!! 
|
|
@Claytonhoneyberry If you have a BRN-180 and a Dremel tool, I can help you with what you are looking for. Its a hack, and not a perfect solution, but it will work better for what you want to do. I can tell you that the BRN uses the similar milspec measurements and approximate dust cover sizes that any AR-15 utilizes. This includes the width and height of the cover, the torsion spring, the cover rod, and C-clip. an aftermarket cover will work. I suggest polymer, as it will modify the easiest and cannot damage the upper or charging handle. But aluminum will work also. The C-clip sits in the same spot on the BRN-180 upper as it does on the AR-15. The difference is that on the AR-15 upper, it keeps the rod from moving back, but pulls free if the front rail is removed. On the BRN-180 it is hidden between the cover and the front mount. (see circle areas below) Very tough to see, and a pain to remove without a pick tool, but it effectively keeps the rod from sliding forward or back. Attached File - You will need to remove the detent catch assembly from the cover (See box above), this is another reason polymer is easier. - You will also need to make an angled cut at the front of the cover so the charging handle will allow it to slip down and out of the way. It should not only angle backward, but be beveled on the inside in order to track downward. Keep in mind the angle should be as tapered as possible. This area can ride against your finger when charging, make sure to sand it smooth without any sharp edges. - The spring will not sit in the exact same spot ans the BRN-180, but it doesn't matter, you will need to flip it, trim the long end shorter, and load it with one turn to add rotational push. (see orientation below) - You may even be able to trim the entire top line down a bit to help with finger clearance issues, the BRN-180 has an odd rear upper channel shape. Attached File Let me know if you give it a try. |
|
Quoted: @Claytonhoneyberry If you have a BRN-180 and a Dremel tool, I can help you with what you are looking for. Its a hack, and not a perfect solution, but it will work better than what you want to do. I can tell you that the BRN uses the same milspec measurements and approximate dust cover sizes that any AR-15 utilizes. This includes the width and height of the cover, the torsion spring, the cover rod, and C-clip. an aftermarket cover will work. I suggest polymer, as it will modify the easiest and cannot damage the upper or charging handle. But aluminum will work also. The C-clip sits in the same spot on the BRN-180 upper as it does on the AR-15. The difference is that on the AR-15 upper, it keeps the rod from moving back, but pulls free if the front rail is removed. On the BRN-180 it is hidden between the cover and the front mount. (see circle areas below) Very tough to see, and a pain to remove without a pick tool, but it effectively keeps the rod from sliding forward or back. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240952/BRN-180_DUST_COVER_jpg-2069628.JPG - You will need to remove the detent catch assembly from the cover (See box above), this is another reason polymer is easier. - You will also need to make an angled cut at the front of the cover so the charging handle will allow it to slip down and out of the way. It should not only angle backward, but be beveled on the inside in order to track downward. Keep in mind the angle should be as tapered as possible. This area can ride against your finger when charging, make sure to sand it smooth without any sharp edges. - The spring will not sit in the exact same spot ans the BRN-180, but it doesn't matter, you will need to flip it, trim the long end shorter, and load it with one turn to add rotational push. (see orientation below) - You may even be able to trim the entire top line down a bit to help with finger clearance issues, the BRN-180 has an odd rear upper channel shape. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240952/BRN-180_DUST_COVER_2_jpg-2069651.JPG Let me know if you give it a try. @BrickWurX I am certainly going to give it a try! All I need is a polymer dust cover since I already have spare C-clips, springs and a rod, so it’s not like I’ll be out anything for at least giving it a try. If it doesn’t work, then I can just return it to normal. Thanks for the detailed post! I’m tracking on what you’re saying and will hopefully get it started sooner rather than later. I don’t think the current dust cover is all that bad, but after seeing your mods to it, it seems like a “No shit!” kinda thing that definitely needs to be added to any future generations of the BRN180. If they can add this and then do something with the charging handle, it’ll make the BRN so much better. I would have already tried the straight replacement charging handle, but I fold my stock to the dust cover side of the upper and it would end up getting in the way of the stock when folded. @Brownells and @Brownells_ar15 should be paying attention to this thread for possible future improvements! |
|
@Claytonhoneyberry Aside from staying retro, my best guess as to why Brownel'ls and PWS stuck with a standard style "spring open" dust cover, would be that a self closing dust cover can interfere with function, and technically becomes a consumable part. What I mean by this is that it will wear over time, being it is "forced to open" repeatedly. Thus eventually invoking a failure due to contact wear, based on carrier reciprocation. Though, how long that would take, be it a polymer or aluminum cover against a steel charging handle, is unknown. Replacing the original style cover with an alternative cover does not actually seal either. Though this could easily be address by a special made part, or something made with a 3D printer (I do not have one of those). An option might be to consider a new style cover replaceable or servicable, like a magazine spring, or other springs, which will wear over time. going with a QD design as a replacement would make changes easier. Something like a Strike Industries cover, which has the retaining pins and spring all built into the cover as one part. While the SI product will work, it would still need the spring reversed (the SI cover contains small parts and a retaining pin holding the unit together, possibly a pain to mod). Keep in mind, more parts means a higher probability for failure. Like I wrote earlier, the BRN-180 is a really well thought out and smart design. Gen2 demonstrates front rail improvements over gen1, which is nice. The dust cover isn't really a deal breaker, and I should note that I'm not really using the BRN-180 upper "as designed" either. There is really only one other design aspect of the BRN-180 that I do not care for, apart from the dust cover, which has to do with the folding stock bumper on left hand side. (not related to this convo). Everything else seems exceptionally well made and thought out. The more I mess with the upper, the more I like it. |
|
PREP, BLAST, PAINT Considering what a "battle worn" finish should resemble, I think old gun with years of use. Over time finishes wear down exposing bare metals, collect some dirt and grime, get beat up, dented, and scratched. Older military rifles were rarely coated in anything but black. While I'll need to stay true to the some theme colors for this rifle, green and yellow in specific areas, the metal finished will be a reduced Cerakote armor’s black. The Cerakote process is good for a battle worn look, especially when working with a metal like aluminum, which will not rust. After soaking and gassing out the parts, I media blast everything to a satin finish using 220 grit white aluminum oxide. Any screws or parts I don't want blasted I cover with vinyl. Avery Dennison makes a great high temp product which holds up well to media blasting (visible in yellow). Cerakote does not require removing all of the anodized finish, but I strip any areas that will show exposed metal bare.  For my version of an aged/ battle worn finish, my next step is what makes a difference in the final product. I don't stack multiple layers of paint over a surface that should look exposed, I go back and directionally hand sand each part. This, along with some machining marks that are hidden or softened when using blasting media, will be exposed once painted. The left hand side of the pic below is after blasting, the right hand side has a few hand sanded parts.  This directional sanding step requires another round of acetone soaking and gassing out to make sure all contaminates are removed. Adding this step also requires re-taping a lot of parts. It's important to note that Cerakote will be less likely to bind as well to the higher ridges of these sanded areas (which is the objective, they will continue to wear over time). The lower ridges will fill with paint and give a permanently weathered look. Back in the bath!  I can’t really photograph the process while I'm painting, but each metal part I plan to age, gets a thin coat of Armor’s black Cerakote. I mainly use Iwata HPC-plus airbrushes, more detailed here than really need, but they atomize paint like few other airbrushes can. Paint is lightly thinned with acetone, then stacked. I do not cure the paint, flash it, or even let it partially dry if I can help it. Once a part gets coated, I immediately start wiping it back down again. First with a dry cloth, then with a cloth soaked in acetone (I use lint free surgical laps for this step). Gently removing most of the paint away from top areas, leaving corners, grooves, pits, and scratches filled with paint. For this step, less is more, remove too much and I may as well not have painted it. The exposed metal can always be sanded a bit more post cure to remove additional Cerakote.  For the color painted areas, i'll use H-232T Magpul O.D. Green with a few drops of H-166 Electric yellow added to brighten up the green just a tad. I had originally planned to use the H-166 yellow for the stripes on the rifle, however, that yellow is way too bright to age properly. Hopefully the H-317 Sunflower yellow I ordered will work better (with all of the Cerakote colors available, the yellow series is a bit limited). |
|
Quoted: PREP, BLAST, PAINT Considering what a "battle worn" finish should resemble, I think old gun with years of use. Over time finishes wear down exposing bare metals, collect some dirt and grime, get beat up, dented, and scratched. Older military rifles were rarely coated in anything but black. While I'll need to stay true to the some theme colors for this rifle, green and yellow in specific areas, the metal finished will be a reduced Cerakote armor’s black. The Cerakote process is good for a battle worn look, especially when working with a metal like aluminum, which will not rust. After soaking and gassing out the parts, I media blast everything to a satin finish using 220 grit white aluminum oxide. Any screws or parts I don't want blasted I cover with vinyl. Avery Dennison makes a great high temp product which holds up well to media blasting (visible in yellow). Cerakote does not require removing all of the anodized finish, but I strip any areas that will show exposed metal bare. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51415013270_3f4745648b_c.jpg For my version of an aged/ battle worn finish, my next step is what makes a difference in the final product. I don't stack multiple layers of paint over a surface that should look exposed, I go back and directionally hand sand each part. This, along with some machining marks that are hidden or softened when using blasting media, will be exposed once painted. The left hand side of the pic below is after blasting, the right hand side has a few hand sanded parts. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51414293643_00e832f386_c.jpg This directional sanding step requires another round of acetone soaking and gassing out to make sure all contaminates are removed. Adding this step also requires re-taping a lot of parts. It's important to note that Cerakote will be less likely to bind as well to the higher ridges of these sanded areas (which is the objective, they will continue to wear over time). The lower ridges will fill with paint and give a permanently weathered look. Back in the bath! https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51414785104_41c3cb8877_c.jpg I can’t really photograph the process while I'm painting, but each metal part I plan to age, gets a thin coat of Armor’s black Cerakote. I mainly use Iwata HPC-plus airbrushes, more detailed here than really need, but they atomize paint like few other airbrushes can. Paint is lightly thinned with acetone, then stacked. I do not cure the paint, flash it, or even let it partially dry if I can help it. Once a part gets coated, I immediately start wiping it back down again. First with a dry cloth, then with a cloth soaked in acetone (I use lint free surgical laps for this step). Gently removing most of the paint away from top areas, leaving corners, grooves, pits, and scratches filled with paint. For this step, less is more, remove too much and I may as well not have painted it. The exposed metal can always be sanded a bit more post cure to remove additional Cerakote. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51415013660_fa108b1af7_c.jpg For the color painted areas, i'll use H-232T Magpul O.D. Green with a few drops of H-166 Electric yellow added to brighten up the green just a tad. I had originally planned to use the H-166 yellow for the stripes on the rifle, however, that yellow is way too bright to age properly. Hopefully the H-317 Sunflower yellow I ordered will work better (with all of the Cerakote colors available, the yellow series is a bit limited). That sight is going to look sick with it. Good call. |
| I have never played any of the games, (really, Civilization: Beyond Earth is about as modern as I get), but I am loving this thread. Mad skills, sir, mad skills, and I love that first Spaceforce rifle as well, really awesome design. Do you ever shot these creations? |
|
This is awesome! |
|
Quoted: I have never played any of the games, (really, Civilization: Beyond Earth is about as modern as I get), but I am loving this thread. Mad skills, sir, mad skills, and I love that first Spaceforce rifle as well, really awesome design. Do you ever shot these creations? Yep, I shoot em. Though the SPACEFORCE-15 has made it out the least, maybe 60 rounds tops. The rifle is fun to shoot, very low recoil based on the weight, its a bit heavy. The issue is often the attention some of the builds can draw at the range, which is not always good. When I pack the rifles with me, 90% of the time the more exotic builds stay in the truck based on the crowd. Distraction can be dangerous. |
|
LOGOS, MARKING, AND EASTER EGGS My selected iconography for this project may not be to everyone’s preference, but I have my reasons to go with what I did. I wanted to incorporate the game as a series, not focusing on just one version or another. I used logos and marking that fit well for each, working across the platform. I had mentioned before the small reference to the PSA SPACEWALKER-15 lower in regards to the in game attraction in the Nuka-World Amusement Park, and also the Fallout 3 add-on Mothership Zeta spacewalk, for the lower I selected. See Below.   The bigger problem I encountered was incorporating the United States Space force Flag, which I designed and used for each of the SF series lowers I had already built. I needed to use the flag here as well, to tie in the other builds, but it had zero game references to work with. A little research provided me with some game background, such as the United States Space Administration (USSA), was the games original U.S. Space program. The USSA had a logo, and a specific flag which was used prewar throughout the game series. I modified the USSF flag to a USSA flag, tying both projects together.  The remaining logos and images are more game specific. Some of the logos are simplified, such as the vault door symbol; I wanted the vault to be represented as it is iconic to the game, but not listed a specific vault number. This Vault door icon, and Vault-Tec logo will both be “Easter Eggs” on the rifle, not prominent, but visible when looking closely. The Brotherhood of Steel logo will be a bit larger, but instead of cutting it into the metal, I plan to make it look added on, as if the owner of the rifle painted it after the fact. The other logos are what were found on the game rifle imagery.  I believe the image below is from Fallout 4, not all of the Laser rifles images I worked from had a MFG tag on them. When I found this marker, I had to include it on the rifle build. The tag will be placed on the opposite side of the game design [left hand], due to the charging handle / energy release side swap.  Wanna see how to push a vinyl cutter, and your sanity, to their limits? Try to cut, weed, apply vinyl over a Cerakote aluminum tag, and then carefully sandblast a plate measuring only 1.95”x1.25”! The razor blade is for size reference.  |
|
Quoted: LOGOS, MARKING, AND EASTER EGGS My selected iconography for this project may not be to everyone’s preference, but I have my reasons to go with what I did. I wanted to incorporate the game as a series, not focusing on just one version or another. I used logos and marking that fit well for each, working across the platform. I had mentioned before the small reference to the PSA SPACEWALKER-15 lower in regards to the in game attraction in the Nuka-World Amusement Park, and also the Fallout 3 add-on Mothership Zeta spacewalk, for the lower I selected. See Below. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51419568877_8ab4553909_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51420570883_6429a52677_c.jpg The bigger problem I encountered was incorporating the United States Space force Flag, which I designed and used for each of the SF series lowers I had already built. I needed to use the flag here as well, to tie in the other builds, but it had zero game references to work with. A little research provided me with some game background, such as the United States Space Administration (USSA), was the games original U.S. Space program. The USSA had a logo, and a specific flag which was used prewar throughout the game series. I modified the USSF flag to a USSA flag, tying both projects together. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51419568947_2d4c05cfa7_c.jpg The remaining logos and images are more game specific. Some of the logos are simplified, such as the vault door symbol; I wanted the vault to be represented as it is iconic to the game, but not listed a specific vault number. This Vault door icon, and Vault-Tec logo will both be “Easter Eggs” on the rifle, not prominent, but visible when looking closely. The Brotherhood of Steel logo will be a bit larger, but instead of cutting it into the metal, I plan to make it look added on, as if the owner of the rifle painted it after the fact. The other logos are what were found on the game rifle imagery. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51420312146_f5dc952d53_c.jpg I believe the image below is from Fallout 4, not all of the Laser rifles images I worked from had a MFG tag on them. When I found this marker, I had to include it on the rifle build. The tag will be placed on the opposite side of the game design [left hand], due to the charging handle / energy release side swap. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51420571023_8ac0b8f19b_c.jpg Wanna see how to push a vinyl cutter, and your sanity, to their limits? Try to cut, weed, apply vinyl over a Cerakote aluminum tag, and then carefully sandblast a plate measuring only 1.95”x1.25”! The razor blade is for size reference. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51420312656_36df69453f_c.jpg 
|
|
Quoted: LOGOS, MARKING, AND EASTER EGGS My selected iconography for this project may not be to everyone's preference, but I have my reasons to go with what I did. I wanted to incorporate the game as a series, not focusing on just one version or another. I used logos and marking that fit well for each, working across the platform. I had mentioned before the small reference to the PSA SPACEWALKER-15 lower in regards to the in game attraction in the Nuka-World Amusement Park, and also the Fallout 3 add-on Mothership Zeta spacewalk, for the lower I selected. See Below. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51419568877_8ab4553909_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51420570883_6429a52677_c.jpg The bigger problem I encountered was incorporating the United States Space force Flag, which I designed and used for each of the SF series lowers I had already built. I needed to use the flag here as well, to tie in the other builds, but it had zero game references to work with. A little research provided me with some game background, such as the United States Space Administration (USSA), was the games original U.S. Space program. The USSA had a logo, and a specific flag which was used prewar throughout the game series. I modified the USSF flag to a USSA flag, tying both projects together. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51419568947_2d4c05cfa7_c.jpg The remaining logos and images are more game specific. Some of the logos are simplified, such as the vault door symbol; I wanted the vault to be represented as it is iconic to the game, but not listed a specific vault number. This Vault door icon, and Vault-Tec logo will both be "Easter Eggs" on the rifle, not prominent, but visible when looking closely. The Brotherhood of Steel logo will be a bit larger, but instead of cutting it into the metal, I plan to make it look added on, as if the owner of the rifle painted it after the fact. The other logos are what were found on the game rifle imagery. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51420312146_f5dc952d53_c.jpg I believe the image below is from Fallout 4, not all of the Laser rifles images I worked from had a MFG tag on them. When I found this marker, I had to include it on the rifle build. The tag will be placed on the opposite side of the game design [left hand], due to the charging handle / energy release side swap. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51420571023_8ac0b8f19b_c.jpg Wanna see how to push a vinyl cutter, and your sanity, to their limits? Try to cut, weed, apply vinyl over a Cerakote aluminum tag, and then carefully sandblast a plate measuring only 1.95"x1.25"! The razor blade is for size reference. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51420312656_36df69453f_c.jpg  Dude, the attention to detail on this thing is just sick. Can't wait to see how it turns out. |