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I did the same thing with Hex shaped tiles. The only failure I had was if I hit the seam between two tiles. You need to stagger the seams. |
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Yep. |
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Good to know if you need to make some improvised body armor. Or fortify a position.
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If the need should exist for some measure of resistance in walls to high speed projectiles-I have heard that building a wall with 2x6 on 16 inch centers and covering the bottom 4 feet with 3/4 plywood will allow filling the voids with washed and screened rock of about 3/8 diameter and significantly decrease the possibility of said projectiles penetrating-I have heard of course.
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If the need should exist for some measure of resistance in walls to high speed projectiles-I have heard that building a wall with 2x6 on 16 inch centers and covering the bottom 4 feet with 3/4 plywood will allow filling the voids with washed and screened rock of about 3/8 diameter and significantly decrease the possibility of said projectiles penetrating-I have heard of course. I tiled a floor at an Amscot several years ago when I was working for my grandfather. The way you described is how they build the walls in front of their tellers. |
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You know, I've seen that video before but I didn't notice till now that that dude looks a lot like me. He's probably 100 lbs heavier but I'm bald and fat. They say the camera makes you look fatter.... maybe I just got roarin' drunk and can't remember. |
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This could be a cheap, easy solution to catching spall with steel plates, esp. at less than $1 per tile. If you read through the thread I linked to in my OP, you'll see that several people got good results with just Herculiner for mitigating fragments. It's a long thread but lots of good information and most of the posts regarding test information are accompanied by pics and video so it should be easy enough to scan through it for the important parts. |
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That is at 20 yards. It is probably multihit capable at 100 yard+ distances.
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I do wonder what we could do with layers of common materials, though...perhaps thin layers of hardened steel laid up with epoxy polymers/aluminum to accept some deformation energy. Betting we could make a plate that's lighter and acts as its own anti-spalling guard. Two bare pieces of tile duct taped together will stop one 5.56 hit with no spall. Yeah. One. Also, ceramic tile is way dense. Tiles are cheap enough. You proved that two tiles can handle one hit of .223. If the user wants multi-hit protection from the "plate" he should use three tiles. Or pony up the dough and buy a real Level III/IV plate. Some of these dudes would complain if you hung 'em with a new rope. |
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I wonder what the result would be if you did the same test with 1/4" herculiner on the front and back but mixed in a healthy amount of ceramic dust with the herculiner.
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Hmmm....I wonder if I could make this my senior design project. Winning! For high school? I'll buy your next membership if you pull it off and get a B or better. |
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I do wonder what we could do with layers of common materials, though...perhaps thin layers of hardened steel laid up with epoxy polymers/aluminum to accept some deformation energy. Betting we could make a plate that's lighter and acts as its own anti-spalling guard. A simple 4 ply laminate of with two ceramic tiles and two rubber tiles taped together would be a worthwhile experiment. I think trying to make one thick tile with fiberglass embedded in it might be worth while. The fiberglass might not survive firing the clay but if it did it would help stop cracks from propagating and would really strengthen the plate. Fiberglass will survive the firing temp. But this project is about using materials on hand as much as possible. These makeshift plates must be tested at a wide range of speeds. Low speed impacts on some materials (transparency materials) cause worse spalling than high speed impacts to the point that the targets are defeated. If I had a big pile of tiles and roofing tar, fiberglass insulation, wood planks, dry wall, or whatever, I would (over) build barricades with the stuff on hand. Personal, portable protection with ceramic tiles is a problem due to weight, but for a short sprint with only a rifle along they might be just the thing to survive. Otherwise, stay below the sky line. |
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Fiberglass will survive the firing temp. But this project is about using materials on hand as much as possible. These makeshift plates must be tested at a wide range of speeds. Low speed impacts on some materials (transparency materials) cause worse spalling than high speed impacts to the point that the targets are defeated. If I had a big pile of tiles and roofing tar, fiberglass insulation, wood planks, dry wall, or whatever, I would (over) build barricades with the stuff on hand. Personal, portable protection with ceramic tiles is a problem due to weight, but for a short sprint with only a rifle along they might be just the thing to survive. Otherwise, stay below the sky line. All good points. We're not trying to re-invent the wheel. Proper Level III/IV plates do a fantastic job and we're not going to improve on that. I was definitely surprised to see that the plates stopped 10 rounds of .40 S&W even after being hit by four rifle rounds. We all know that pistols are nowhere near as powerful as rifles but this sort of thing always drives that point home for me. |
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Excellent Test!
Now add a sheet of kevlar fabric at each layer and on outside, with a sheet of D3O shock absorbing material on internal facing side. The kevlar fabric is not that expensive, but the D3O material is a bit pricey still, however it really absorbs the impact force and spreads it laterally. |
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Excellent Test! Now add a sheet of kevlar fabric at each layer and on outside, with a sheet of D3O shock absorbing material on internal facing side. The kevlar fabric is not that expensive, but the D3O material is a bit pricey still, however it really absorbs the impact force and spreads it laterally. I've got Kevlar handy but I wanted to do the project with stuff that's readily available at local retail outlets. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Hmmm....I wonder if I could make this my senior design project. Winning! For high school? I'll buy your next membership if you pull it off and get a B or better. No, I'm a Materials major at a major university. |
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Hmmm....I wonder if I could make this my senior design project. Winning! For high school? I'll buy your next membership if you pull it off and get a B or better. No, I'm a Materials major at a major university. It would still be pretty cool but not nearly as much head exploding as if you were a high school student. If you do decide to do the project, let me know if there's anything I can help with. |
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That is at 20 yards. It is probably multihit capable at 100 yard+ distances.
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I do wonder what we could do with layers of common materials, though...perhaps thin layers of hardened steel laid up with epoxy polymers/aluminum to accept some deformation energy. Betting we could make a plate that's lighter and acts as its own anti-spalling guard. Two bare pieces of tile duct taped together will stop one 5.56 hit with no spall. Yeah. One. Also, ceramic tile is way dense. Tiles are cheap enough. You proved that two tiles can handle one hit of .223. If the user wants multi-hit protection from the "plate" he should use three tiles. Or pony up the dough and buy a real Level III/IV plate. Some of these dudes would complain if you hung 'em with a new rope. I wasn't trying to complain, or even to say that this isn't an excellent result with some very available materials. What I was suggesting was that we might be able to come up with a low-cost, yet easily-fabricated solution that improves on your results. |
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That is at 20 yards. It is probably multihit capable at 100 yard+ distances.
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I do wonder what we could do with layers of common materials, though...perhaps thin layers of hardened steel laid up with epoxy polymers/aluminum to accept some deformation energy. Betting we could make a plate that's lighter and acts as its own anti-spalling guard. Two bare pieces of tile duct taped together will stop one 5.56 hit with no spall. Yeah. One. Also, ceramic tile is way dense. Tiles are cheap enough. You proved that two tiles can handle one hit of .223. If the user wants multi-hit protection from the "plate" he should use three tiles. Or pony up the dough and buy a real Level III/IV plate. Some of these dudes would complain if you hung 'em with a new rope. I wasn't trying to complain, or even to say that this isn't an excellent result with some very available materials. What I was suggesting was that we might be able to come up with a low-cost, yet easily-fabricated solution that improves on your results. sorry if it sounded snarky. I was just funnin'. It does sound like a good idea. |
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We have some fake brick fascia at one of the places I work at. The stuff is as hard as hell. It burns up diamond bits trying to drill holes in it. I have been wondering about a test like that, with it. I just don't know where they got it from. Good to know for SHTF moment.
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Several layers of glass would be interesting.
Not sure what you would use between them. |
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Several layers of glass would be interesting. Not sure what you would use between them. I'd bet Herculiner would still do a great job of holding it all together so long as you roughed up the surface with an orbital sander first. We'll have to see if we can get some glass for free/cheap. I'd like to use relatively thick sheets. Like at least 1/4". |
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Quoted: Quoted: Several layers of glass would be interesting. Not sure what you would use between them. I'd bet Herculiner would still do a great job of holding it all together so long as you roughed up the surface with an orbital sander first. We'll have to see if we can get some glass for free/cheap. I'd like to use relatively thick sheets. Like at least 1/4". Glass is not going to work as well. The fragmented ceramic acts like little grinding stones as the bullet is passing through and actually grinds it down to where its mass can no longer carry it through. The rounds of 5.56 I was stopping lost 80% of their mass, it just turned to dust. |
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Several layers of glass would be interesting. Not sure what you would use between them. I'd bet Herculiner would still do a great job of holding it all together so long as you roughed up the surface with an orbital sander first. We'll have to see if we can get some glass for free/cheap. I'd like to use relatively thick sheets. Like at least 1/4". Glass is not going to work as well. The fragmented ceramic acts like little grinding stones as the bullet is passing through and actually grinds it down to where its mass can no longer carry it through. The rounds of 5.56 I was stopping lost 80% of their mass, it just turned to dust. Yeah, when I tried to pick out bullets from the chunks, the best I could find were a few pieces of jacket and some chunks of .40 that you see in the pic. Nothing really left of the rifle bullets. |
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HAHAHAHAHAAAA!!! But dammmmmm! It worked. |
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you never know when push is gonna come to shove...don't fuck with a patient man.
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Excellent Test! Now add a sheet of kevlar fabric at each layer and on outside, with a sheet of D3O shock absorbing material on internal facing side. The kevlar fabric is not that expensive, but the D3O material is a bit pricey still, however it really absorbs the impact force and spreads it laterally. I'm trying that myself, progress is halted though, due to a bout of flu. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Several layers of glass would be interesting. Not sure what you would use between them. I'd bet Herculiner would still do a great job of holding it all together so long as you roughed up the surface with an orbital sander first. We'll have to see if we can get some glass for free/cheap. I'd like to use relatively thick sheets. Like at least 1/4". Glass is not going to work as well. The fragmented ceramic acts like little grinding stones as the bullet is passing through and actually grinds it down to where its mass can no longer carry it through. The rounds of 5.56 I was stopping lost 80% of their mass, it just turned to dust. Yeah, when I tried to pick out bullets from the chunks, the best I could find were a few pieces of jacket and some chunks of .40 that you see in the pic. Nothing really left of the rifle bullets. Yep, and its not only the forward motion grinding the bullets down, its also the fact that their spinning at roughly 50K RPM's that does a lot of the work. One of my 855's got through at a seam, but the penetrator was torn all to hell and going sideways for part of the trip. |
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Or you can buy 12" tiles.
Quoted: You need to stagger the seams. |
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Eventually, I'll probably test one of these with gelatin behind it. I'd be interested to see what kind of energy is left over from something like that steel penetrator, after getting through all that porcelain.
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$8. Pass them out to friends.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1340155_UNOFFICIAL_DIY_Armor_and_stuff_thread__PIC_HEAVY_.html&page=45#i38225126 |
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$8. Pass them out to friends. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1340155_UNOFFICIAL_DIY_Armor_and_stuff_thread__PIC_HEAVY_.html&page=45#i38225126 the tiles I'm using are $1.50 a piece, you can get them for less than a dollar, I even saw a 9x12 grade V box of tiles, but I've forgotten the price. the bed liner is the most expensive part, apx $20 for a quart. |
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$8. Pass them out to friends. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1340155_UNOFFICIAL_DIY_Armor_and_stuff_thread__PIC_HEAVY_.html&page=45#i38225126 the tiles I'm using are $1.50 a piece, you can get them for less than a dollar, I even saw a 9x12 grade V box of tiles, but I've forgotten the price. the bed liner is the most expensive part, apx $20 for a quart. I'm paying $2.50 each 12"x12" tile and $30 for a quart of Herc. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Several layers of glass would be interesting. Not sure what you would use between them. I'd bet Herculiner would still do a great job of holding it all together so long as you roughed up the surface with an orbital sander first. We'll have to see if we can get some glass for free/cheap. I'd like to use relatively thick sheets. Like at least 1/4". Glass is not going to work as well. The fragmented ceramic acts like little grinding stones as the bullet is passing through and actually grinds it down to where its mass can no longer carry it through. The rounds of 5.56 I was stopping lost 80% of their mass, it just turned to dust. Yeah, when I tried to pick out bullets from the chunks, the best I could find were a few pieces of jacket and some chunks of .40 that you see in the pic. Nothing really left of the rifle bullets. Yep, and its not only the forward motion grinding the bullets down, its also the fact that their spinning at roughly 50K RPM's that does a lot of the work. One of my 855's got through at a seam, but the penetrator was torn all to hell and going sideways for part of the trip. Well no, they spin a few degrees only in the distance they impact the plates until they are stopped. A 1:7 twist barrel is only going to allow a ~15 degree spin in 1/3 of an inch. |
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Herc needs to go on front, I think it would have better multi hit capabilities by containing the tile fragments.
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Herc needs to go on front, I think it would have better multi hit capabilities by containing the tile fragments. There is a thin layer of Herc on the front and that definitely helped keep everything together. The thicker layer of Herc on the back is intended to prevent fragments coming out the back of the "plate." |
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Quoted: But yours are multi hit capable.Quoted: Quoted: $8. Pass them out to friends. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1340155_UNOFFICIAL_DIY_Armor_and_stuff_thread__PIC_HEAVY_.html&page=45#i38225126 the tiles I'm using are $1.50 a piece, you can get them for less than a dollar, I even saw a 9x12 grade V box of tiles, but I've forgotten the price. the bed liner is the most expensive part, apx $20 for a quart. I'm paying $2.50 each 12"x12" tile and $30 for a quart of Herc. |
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Herc needs to go on front, I think it would have better multi hit capabilities by containing the tile fragments. Oooh, good point! Much more testing required, OP. |
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But yours are multi hit capable.
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$8. Pass them out to friends. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1340155_UNOFFICIAL_DIY_Armor_and_stuff_thread__PIC_HEAVY_.html&page=45#i38225126 the tiles I'm using are $1.50 a piece, you can get them for less than a dollar, I even saw a 9x12 grade V box of tiles, but I've forgotten the price. the bed liner is the most expensive part, apx $20 for a quart. I'm paying $2.50 each 12"x12" tile and $30 for a quart of Herc. That's where the extra money went. |
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Herc some belted tire tread to the face. I think if I was going to do that, it would work best between the tiles or as a backer to stop fragments. The tile itself does the real heavy lifting as far as breaking up and stopping the bullet. |
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BF if you test another three layer one, could you shoot it to failure with 223?
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Saw this the other day and started thinking about what is around the house. Hurc, tiles, fiberglass cloth, lexan sheet.......
I was thinking of 2 tiles with fiberglass cloth laid up in hurc between them. A layer of hurc on the front, and a layer of hurc backed up with some 1/8 inch lexan on the back. Ought to be a tough plate. |
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