High temperature gauge in car very high - almost pegged - Page 2

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - High temperature gauge in car very high - almost pegged (Page 2 of 2)

Posted: 4/12/2014 12:28:36 PM EDT

[#1]

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Not always the case. On my chevy, oil can get into the coolant never gets into the oil. I don't understand how, but it's been like that for years.

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Head gasket (likely or not) seems like the most expensive, so that is probably what it is

If your oil looks like a milkshake it's your head gasket.
If it's clean it's something else.

Not always the case. On my chevy, oil can get into the coolant never gets into the oil. I don't understand how, but it's been like that for years.

Hmm. Not sure how that happens?

Regardless, OP needs to understand that in the future when his gauge starts going up, he needs to turn the car off & if the cause is not obvious & on the spot repairable (like a hose, belt, etc.) DON'T DRIVE IT UNLESS YOU WANT TO KILL YOUR ENGINE.

Posted: 4/12/2014 12:33:24 PM EDT

[#2]

I just changed the thermostat in my 97 accord. It was easy!!! The parts were only $13 and about 45 min to change.

Posted: 4/12/2014 1:00:31 PM EDT

[#3]

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For future reference, you generally do not want to open the radiator cap on a hot engine.

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BTW - I don't tinker with cars much

For future reference, you generally do not want to open the radiator cap on a hot engine.

It can certainly lead to some serious burn/scalding injuries. And you definitely do not want to add water to a hot engine. Very bad for the head gaskets, and that turns into a very expensive repair compared to waiting for the engine to cool before opening the radiator cap and adding water. It could also lead to cylinder heads warping, which can get extremely expensive.

I learned those lessons the hard way many years ago.

There's also the possibility that you have a bad radiator hose that is collapsing on itself internally, blocking the coolant flow. I fought that problem for several days almost 40 years ago before I finally decided to replace the radiator hoses and discovered the lower hose had delaminated and the inner layer had blocked the hose.

Posted: 4/12/2014 1:30:19 PM EDT

[#4]

OP what side of the state are you in?

If your in Eastern WA and close to the Tri-Cities I can give you a had hand.

Ed

eta.......idiot <------------------

Posted: 4/12/2014 1:31:19 PM EDT

[#5]

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Not always the case. On my chevy, oil can get into the coolant never gets into the oil. I don't understand how, but it's been like that for years.

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Agreed.

Honda b series sohc motor with overheat/coolant loss = head gasket.

I've had three go bad, and they all did the same as the OP. The last time, it didn't even show a problem in the leak down test.

Make sure to ask about any tsb's or upgraded gasket/ head bolts.

Posted: 4/15/2014 2:03:04 PM EDT

[#6]

I did check the oil and it does seem a little high - and brown-ish :-(

Posted: 4/15/2014 2:13:58 PM EDT

[#7]

Because oil pressure is around 60psi at speed. Coolant pressure might be 15psi. Thats why oil goes to cooling system and not vice versa.

Posted: 4/15/2014 2:26:28 PM EDT

[#8]

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Because oil pressure is around 60psi at speed. Coolant pressure might be 15psi. Thats why oil goes to cooling system and not vice versa.

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That is only true if an oil cooler is bad. If head is cracked or head gasket bad the combustion pressure will over pressurise the coolant system. Also after engine is shut off there is still pressure in the cooling system that will allow water to transfer to oil by running down cylinder wall into crankcase. Very common for water to be in oil and not oil in water when head issues occur.

Posted: 4/17/2014 4:52:07 PM EDT

[#9]

Any update on this issue?

Posted: 4/17/2014 7:00:43 PM EDT

[#10]

thermostat
radiator
water pump
head gasket
fan not kicking on
air bubble in cooling system
hole in radiator hose or hose to heater core
plugged heater core

Could be one of those.

Try this though. Fill the radiator/make sure its full. With the radiator cap off have someone start the car while you watch the coolant. If it shoots out and/and or you see smoke come out, its most likely your head gasket is blown allowing exhaust into your cooling system.

Posted: 4/17/2014 7:10:28 PM EDT

[#11]

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Quoted:
thermostat
radiator
water pump
head gasket
fan not kicking on
air bubble in cooling system
hole in radiator hose or hose to heater core
plugged heater core

Could be one of those.

Try this though. Fill the radiator/make sure its full. With the radiator cap off have someone start the car while you watch the coolant. If it shoots out and/and or you see smoke come out, its most likely your head gasket is blown allowing exhaust into your cooling system.

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Mostly this.
Water in the reservoir doesn't count.
Water in the radiator does.
Fill the radiator.
Try stop leak.

Cross your fingers

Posted: 4/17/2014 8:07:27 PM EDT

[#12]

you just need to keep the engine running while taking the cap off.

Posted: 4/17/2014 8:10:39 PM EDT

[#13]

And leave the engine running when you put water in.

Posted: 4/17/2014 8:16:52 PM EDT

[#14]

Thermostat guaranteed.

Change it or just yank it and life will go back to normal.

Posted: 4/27/2014 4:02:30 PM EDT

[#15]

Apparently, it was the water pump.

Posted: 4/27/2014 4:09:55 PM EDT

[#16]

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Honda Civic - 1992

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Honda Civic - 1992

If it's warm enough outside, open the hood and see if the fans cycle on and off normally. Honda of that era have a thermostat in the oil pan that triggers the fan to cycle, and will NOT cycle on, and then overheat, if it fails.

Bad news, it's a pain in the ass to replace if that's it.

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Apparently, it was the water pump.

Or that. That was the cheaper option, lucky, there.

Posted: 4/27/2014 4:15:03 PM EDT

[#17]

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Apparently, it was the water pump.

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Did you replace the timing belt ?
I believe it has to come off to service the water pump so it should be replaced.

Posted: 4/27/2014 7:39:40 PM EDT

[#18]

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Did you replace the timing belt ?
I believe it has to come off to service the water pump so it should be replaced.

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Quoted:
Apparently, it was the water pump.

Did you replace the timing belt ?
I believe it has to come off to service the water pump so it should be replaced.

I told them to replace both the water pump and timing belt. Anyone want to guess how much that costs? :-(

Posted: 4/27/2014 7:51:26 PM EDT

[#19]

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And so continues the pussification of America

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MY MONEY IS ON CHECKING THE WATER LEVEL IN THE BATTERY or changing the air in the tires.

Posted: 4/28/2014 5:16:03 AM EDT

[#20]

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I told them to replace both the water pump and timing belt. Anyone want to guess how much that costs? :-(

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Quoted:
Apparently, it was the water pump.

Did you replace the timing belt ?
I believe it has to come off to service the water pump so it should be replaced.

I told them to replace both the water pump and timing belt. Anyone want to guess how much that costs? :-(

Usually $600-$700 on Hondas, in my experience. You can save a lot if you find a garage that'll only charge labor, since you can get the Honda OEM parts for cheap. That applies to future repairs as well. This one is mostly a labor charge, they have to take a lot apart.

Timing belt is not something you want to do yourself on a Honda unless you reallllllly know what you're doing, and mark positions when you take the old one off. Two cylinders trying to fire at once is not good for the engine.

Posted: 4/28/2014 5:22:04 AM EDT

[#21]

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I told them to replace both the water pump and timing belt. Anyone want to guess how much that costs? :-(

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Quoted:

Quoted:

Apparently, it was the water pump.

Did you replace the timing belt ?

I believe it has to come off to service the water pump so it should be replaced.

I told them to replace both the water pump and timing belt. Anyone want to guess how much that costs? :-(

>$87

Posted: 4/28/2014 5:35:08 AM EDT

[#22]

Clean the mouse nest out of the air-box?

Posted: 4/28/2014 5:44:44 AM EDT

[#23]

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lol, no.

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BTW - I don't tinker with cars much

For future reference, you generally do not want to open the radiator cap on a hot engine.

or drive it or even run it.. you need to wait for it to cool down before adding water

adding cold water to a hot engine can cause major issues for sure.

lol, no.

under many circumstances it is better to run a hot engine.

If you are adding water it is best to keep it running.

If you do not know what you are doing you can get burnt.

If you have pressure on the top hose you have to be very careful venting the steam.

you can tell if the thermostat is open if it is allowing the water to be pump to push water to the top of the radiator.

It cannot pump water if it has none. slowly add water to the radiator understanding that boiling water can come back out.

Changing a thermostat on the side of the road or taking it out is better than sitting on the side of the road.

Posted: 4/28/2014 6:31:24 AM EDT

[#24]

Most radiator caps play a VERY important role in the cooling system. Coolant can boil at standard operating temperatures if not under pressure. Some systems require as much as 16 psi to run properly. What happens when the cap goes bad, it flash boils sending a lot of your coolant out onto the ground from your overflow hose on your reservoir. This leads you to believe you were low or have a leak. Your radiator cap should almost be a maintenance item you change say every 25k or so. Super cheap and can save your ass.