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Quoted: I slapped this mod together really quick. Beefed up side plates. Put very little effort into this, just added mass and made sure there was enough clearances. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/418171/wildfire_mod1_PNG-1594532.JPG Just trying to make that buffer tube mount a little sturdier. I think the forward nut is not necessary, and having a ridge on the receiver and the tube mount that has something slide over it on both sides to hold the parts together more firmly is going to be the answer. And to those with weird dimensional problems - different colors of PLA and PLA+ have different shrink and warp properties because of the color additives. Mine is all OD green PLA+ and came together without any excitement whatsoever. |
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Quoted: Did you use a roll pin? The docs said to use filament instead and melt the ends like a rivet. It worked well on the trigger guard area but I haven't got my parts kit to try the bolt catch yet. Oh, I did that on the trigger guard but I did use the roll pin on the bolt release. Oh well, its still solid. |
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My beefed up side plates are not aesthetically pleasing but they reduce the amount of buffer tube flex. Attached File If I glued the buffer tube mount to the reciever it would probably be even sturdier. |
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Do those sideplates get in the way of the safety selector? Not knowing any better - so please bear that in mind - would it make more sense to make those sideplates out of aluminum or even steel mending plates from a hardware store? Assuming their only job is stiffening the lower that is. |
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Quoted: Do those sideplates get in the way of the safety selector? Not knowing any better - so please bear that in mind - would it make more sense to make those sideplates out of aluminum or even steel mending plates from a hardware store? Assuming their only job is stiffening the lower that is. It does not block the safety selector but it does block the rear take down pin. |
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From the FB group for those who want a workaround on the rear take down pin. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4605170 |
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Quoted: From the FB group for those who want a workaround on the rear take down pin. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4605170 Nice idea, but this must take a very specific rear takedown pin. Regular pins will not fit. |
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I decided to print a vanguard ubolt. This thing is good to go. It's way more solid than the wildfire. Attached File |
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Quoted: It's not you fault, keybase sucks. Once you join det_disp you have to go to files, then team. Quoted: Quoted: I'm a dummy,..how do you find files on keybase? It's not you fault, keybase sucks. Once you join det_disp you have to go to files, then team. you ain't kidding, it's worse then DU |
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Quoted: It also depends on what you're looking for. 100% tested items are uploaded to the lbry site. WIP's (work in progress) are in various states on public and private betas. Some members have projects in their individual public folders. This. A lot of the good stuff is in the "det_disp.beta" channel, but in the public folders of the developers. |
| I need a favor from someone that has printed and assembled a wildfire, preferably out of PLA+/pro. I have printed the full set of parts twice now, and nothing fits. Ive printed a GOB of things, but very rarely things that need to fit precisely. If a Benchy is 1% too big or small, who can tell or care? When I have printed things that had to fit something else, I passed off inaccuracy as just needing to do more post processing, no big deal. My printer and my process is producing subtly ill sized parts. A couple of parts being a hair too big or small, I can accept, but I think I have a bigger problem. What I think I need is a volunteer to put a caliper on a bunch of these parts so I can start trying to isolate where my problem is. |
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Quoted: I need a favor from someone that has printed and assembled a wildfire, preferably out of PLA+/pro. I have printed the full set of parts twice now, and nothing fits. Ive printed a GOB of things, but very rarely things that need to fit precisely. If a Benchy is 1% too big or small, who can tell or care? When I have printed things that had to fit something else, I passed off inaccuracy as just needing to do more post processing, no big deal. My printer and my process is producing subtly ill sized parts. A couple of parts being a hair too big or small, I can accept, but I think I have a bigger problem. What I think I need is a volunteer to put a caliper on a bunch of these parts so I can start trying to isolate where my problem is. Go out and buy a set of HF digital calipers, do a calibration cube. measure and figure out the problems. It could be loose belts, calibrate e-steps if you haven't already, etc. It's process of elimination, but you'll need to measure stuff, AND accept the fact this will not be a precision machine. But as to the lower itself, my bolts were tight. I believe it was a tiny bit of elephants foot on the first layer. As recommended in the instructions, I have the bolt threads a very quick pass with the torch, and they fit better. Still tight, but could bottom them out without fear of breaking out. |
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Quoted: I need a favor from someone that has printed and assembled a wildfire, preferably out of PLA+/pro. I have printed the full set of parts twice now, and nothing fits. Ive printed a GOB of things, but very rarely things that need to fit precisely. If a Benchy is 1% too big or small, who can tell or care? When I have printed things that had to fit something else, I passed off inaccuracy as just needing to do more post processing, no big deal. My printer and my process is producing subtly ill sized parts. A couple of parts being a hair too big or small, I can accept, but I think I have a bigger problem. What I think I need is a volunteer to put a caliper on a bunch of these parts so I can start trying to isolate where my problem is. Generally speaking, getting close tolerances is going to require fine tuning of material flow rates for a specific filament & temperature (after getting your extruder setting dead on). Interlocking puzzle pieces can be a good method to test (& document). If a fit is too loose, increase flow rate. If too tight, decrease flow rate. There is more than one way to tweak flow rate. One is to actually change the % flow rate in the slicer, another is to tell the slicer your filament diameter is greater or smaller than the nominal value. Both have the same effect in terms of more or less material extruded. |
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Quoted: Interesting question but I doubt it. Considering the upper could be held in place with the rear take down pin long enough to crack off a single shot. Quoted: Quoted: is this considered an 80% lower when unassembled? Interesting question but I doubt it. Considering the upper could be held in place with the rear take down pin long enough to crack off a single shot. valid point, but it seems like it's just a piece of plastic or a component with out the other parts attached making it a complete lower maybe a letter to ATF needs to be sent  ^ thats a joke for the humor impaired |
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Quoted: been looking through the files have a question what are layers lines and how do you adjust them? thanks https://i.imgur.com/UOTUHW2l.png In cura it's wall line count. |
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Quoted: In cura it's wall line count. Quoted: Quoted: been looking through the files have a question what are layers lines and how do you adjust them? thanks https://i.imgur.com/UOTUHW2l.png In cura it's wall line count. thank you! I been all over cura looking for "layer lines" I may need a rosetta stone for 3d printing terminology |
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Quoted: It does not block the safety selector but it does block the rear take down pin. Quoted: Quoted: Do those sideplates get in the way of the safety selector? Not knowing any better - so please bear that in mind - would it make more sense to make those sideplates out of aluminum or even steel mending plates from a hardware store? Assuming their only job is stiffening the lower that is. It does not block the safety selector but it does block the rear take down pin. could you not install the bracket upside down, looks like you would have clearance for the rear pin, might have to take a round file and cut a slight notch |