Yay, for a rational retort!

saw the pics and simply skipped down to reply .  



I remember when i was into this.

if someone has blasted you for you choice of products..  


let it go.    

i remember having good and crappy stuff. < not making a statement on your choice >

thinking back on it..  


it was all fun..

the good..  the bad..  

all of it.


enjoy it .  

some people want high DB numbers.  
some people want high quality sound..
some people want to do somethng with thier hands
some people wanna simply enjoy ..




have fun man!

edit:

exposed wires.. thats the one thing i could never stand..

Way to ruin it for the rest of us dick...I was just starting to feel better about myself.

Incorrect.

There is nothing regulating the voltage to the headlights. Therefore they will dim naturally when the voltage of their power supply drops. Going from the 14.4v that the alternator supplies under a small load to a perfectly normal 12v that it might supply(with the battery backing it up) under a medium load will cause the lights to dim and there is nothing wrong with that. "Too much" would be when the voltage in your vehicle starts dropping to ~10v or less.

You are right about the capacitor though. They really aren't needed. Amplifiers have enough capacitance built into them to handle the dynamics of music. If you are exhausting your power supply adding a capacitor will only increase the demand on the power supply and lower your voltage potential.



As for the original posters "2400w" its really only 1010w RMS. Not much power at all. Shouldn't require a power supply upgrade unless the vehicle has a very small alternator.  The 0awg power is overkill for that. Nothing wrong with that but a 4awg wire would have been perfectly fine unless you had like a 25ft run of it.

I'm thinking the 0ga. was ground coming off the distribution block to the chassis.

With the BFL on it it must be a Flux capacitor