[ARCHIVED THREAD] - $300 AR thread for Spring! (Page 14 of 23)
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Looks like the front pivot pin is about 5 bumps long and the rear takedown pin is just short of 4. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/84655/20171127_173010-374576.JPG |
I am glad you guys cleaned these out. I was seriously considering more of them. Of course my "cheap" build ideas have already cost me more than I was thinking going into it, but hey, the lowers were only $20 each when I bought them, right?
The last shipment of accessories to complete my two should be here tomorrow, then I will post some pics and details. |
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Front is 1 1/8", rear 7/8" in terms of "usable length" per McMaster: Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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The 1 1/8 is looking a little long in the rear, 1 1/4 would be awfully funny looking back there.
Anyone find a source for 7/8 and 1 1/8? Attached File |
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Just picked up one of the 16" complete uppers with a carry handle for $236 shipped. I'll watch PSA for lower deals and pick one up before Christmas. I guess I know what my son is getting for Christmas now. I never dreamed a complete AR-15 for well under $350 would be possible. |
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Quoted: Freedom Munitions had a Bushmaster optics ready AR for 250 on black friday... I am working on a Anderson build ,29.99 lower (38 shipped) plus 15 for the transfer. Using cheaper parts and stuff, a complete rifle can be had for around 275 if you want a basic M4 style gun. |
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I put in a quote request with a manufacturer for a minimum order batch of 250 each for 7/8" and 1-1/8" usable length pins, since they are nowhere to be found at the distributors.
I'll let you what pricing comes to. If it's somewhat reasonable, I'll order 250 of each and sell them to you guys cheap, keeping enough pins for myself. |
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Quoted: Freedom Munitions had a Bushmaster optics ready AR for 250 on black friday... I am working on a Anderson build ,29.99 lower (38 shipped) plus 15 for the transfer. Using cheaper parts and stuff, a complete rifle can be had for around 275 if you want a basic M4 style gun.
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If you order in bulk from Cav Mfg, the pricing is reasonable. Just might have to wait a bit, as all those recent $20 lowers have brand new Cav Mfg pins in them. How "reasonable" are bulk pin prices from Cav? How many is considered "bulk"? There are a bunch of people that need 8 sets of pins, would Cav Mfg call that a bulk order? We'll see what the manufacturer quotes me for 250 of each pin, if they get back to me at all. |
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Jdude, you'll need a block on the top behind the top screw hole. Will try to get a pic.
Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File ETA: You may have already solved the issue w/ your design. |
| So I'm totally late to this party. I'd love to build one of these since I've been looking for an A1 stock to build but the teacher salary (I know to go be poor somewhere else) just won't let me justify the cost. If anyone is in VA, bought a few extras, and would be willing to do a FTF on one of these for a decent price please PM me. I would greatly appreciate it. |
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So I'm totally late to this party. I'd love to build one of these since I've been looking for an A1 stock to build but the teacher salary (I know to go be poor somewhere else) just won't let me justify the cost. If anyone is in VA, bought a few extras, and would be willing to do a FTF on one of these for a decent price please PM me. I would greatly appreciate it.
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https://knsprecisioninc.com/gun-parts-and-accessories/ar-15-parts/ar15-m16-push-button-pivot-takedown-pin-combo-set.html
I use the pivot pin version of this in one of my receivers, not sure if the rear works but it probably could be made to work by relieving material around the hole where the detent bearings pop out |
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https://knsprecisioninc.com/gun-parts-and-accessories/ar-15-parts/ar15-m16-push-button-pivot-takedown-pin-combo-set.html I use the pivot pin version of this in one of my receivers, not sure if the rear works but it probably could be made to work by relieving material around the hole where the detent bearings pop out My manufacturer inquiry was a bust, they don't stock the item domestically and would need a minimum order of 2500 pieces and a 4 month lead time from their factory in China. I've reached out to Cav Mfg to ask about bulk pricing for pins/buttplates. I'd be extremely happy if they'd sell pin/buttplate sets for $10 if you bought 5+ or something like that. |
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For those still looking for an upper classic has this railed upper minus bc/ch for 150 shipped after code mydeal20. $150 railed upper |
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385 bucks including transfer. All new parts. Complete mid length kit from PSA (record fast shipping from Black Friday!). No issues except I have to get a roll pin for the buffer detent Attached File |
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Pics as promised. So much for going ultra cheap, but I still managed two complete rifles for about $850 total. $52 for the two lowers - split $26 per rifle, then: $250 for the railed Bear Creek complete upper from P.A. $120 for the red dot from P.A. $55 for the MBUS Total of $451 for that one. $300 complete PSA middy upper $40 Troy rear sight from P.A. $32 Magpul MOE SL handguards Total of $398 for that one. Most the stuff had free shipping, and the stuff that didn’t was part of orders for other things that weren’t part of this project. I had most the parts to finish the lowers. Attached File |
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Use a paperclip for the time being, and I need to order a batch of roll pins from McMaster-Carr or Fastenall. Took my MIL shooting this afternoon instead. And got 4 more Christmas lowers out the door.
ETA: All 3 of those builds look good. I hope my 3 end up looking as nice. Come on Stag! I have a left-handed ejection port to cut w/ a Dremel.
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For those with "cracked" buffer tubes or mag wells, I am planning on buying some kydex sheet and some plastic adhesive: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XR9WC8?tag=vglnk-c102-20&th=1&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009EU5ZNO/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 And cutting a rectangle to glue as a patch across the joint in front of the well or at the top of the buffer tube opening to bridge the gap and "patch" it. The kydex is 0.028, and it looks like there is plenty of room for it above the buffer and spring. I may even put a little patch in some of my "good" buffer tubes, as the very end is split slightly. |
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For those with "cracked" buffer tubes or mag wells, I am planning on buying some kydex sheet and some plastic adhesive: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BR38ZS8/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009EU5ZNO/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 And cutting a rectangle to glue as a patch across the joint in front of the well or at the top of the buffer tube opening to bridge the gap and "patch" it. The kydex is 0.028, and it looks like there is plenty of room for it above the buffer and spring. I may even put a little patch in some of my "good" buffer tubes, as the very end is split slightly. https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_118/720869_saber-defense-branded-gwacs-lower-problem.html |
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I think a "clamp" could be made to glue either spot with some vice grips, a small metal or wooden square/rectangle and a layer of closed cell foam under it. That should give a pretty solid repair I think. I think a patch of the buffer tube should extend all the way to the edge. That way the buffer itself won't catch on the edge as it moves back. It may catch as it moves forward. I'll have to see. |
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The cracked buffer tubes are $5 lowers. Slap that patch on the outside! You may be able to get away with laying it over the top and then heating it with a hairdryer as thin as it is. I would assume the melting temperature of the Kydex is much lower than the nylon stock. Wouldn't be as clean though... |
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Will any of these work as the buffer detent pin?
https://www.harborfreight.com/120-piece-roll-pin-storehouse-67591.html |
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Will any of these work as the buffer detent pin? https://www.harborfreight.com/120-piece-roll-pin-storehouse-67591.html |
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Quoted: All of my lowers are non-blems, but those with cracks may be overthinking the repair process. www.amazon.com/dp/B000CSS8UE
@220 has already done gone and used superglue instead of sending in his lower for repair. |
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Thanks. Now I'll be set for 3 buffer detent roll pin failures
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Quoted: Pssh. Those of us w/ $5 lowers are looking for repairs cheaper than the lower itself.
@220 has already done gone and used superglue instead of sending in his lower for repair. My repair, if it works, cost me at most 33 cents for the entire tube of super glue. Those little 3 packs for a buck come in handy. |
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I think Trinity bought all the pins Cav Mfg had on hand. Best to ask GWACS for pins at the moment, unless someone nails down the correct McMaster-Carr part number.
Pretty sure Trinity is done w/ the Cav Arms Mk 2 business, other than the lower I have to drop by to ship off for Mrs Maccrage. Other than selling uppers and standard LPKs you can install, I don't think they're going to have any more to do with them. ETA: Speaking of Mrs Maccrage: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/2056863_Striker-Approved-Mrs-Maccrage-s-Christmas-rifle.html |
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Unless you like pins that are too long and using washers (I don't), McMaster Carr doesn't have the right parts.
Flat head ball detent clevis pins - aka "cotterless" - aka "hitch pins" - aka "quick release" - don't seem to be readily available in 1/4" diameter and 7/8" or 1-1/8" lengths. |
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Are these the pins we're looking for?
Attached File Attached File |
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Are these the pins we're looking for? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/155324/Screenshot_20171201-120346-378033.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/155324/Screenshot_20171201-120409-378032.JPG |
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Are these the pins we're looking for? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/155324/Screenshot_20171201-120346-378033.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/155324/Screenshot_20171201-120409-378032.JPG |
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I don't think those have the spring balls Quoted:
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Are these the pins we're looking for? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/155324/Screenshot_20171201-120346-378033.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/155324/Screenshot_20171201-120409-378032.JPG And if you're going to use standard clevis pins with a cotter retaining pin, you will need additional "usable length". If you have a good lower with the pins, look at how where the ball detent sits is recessed, especially on the takedown pin. Not sure you could fit a cotter pin into the recessed area. If you want to use a pin with a cotter pin, you'll need an extra 1/8" at least. |

