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Posted: 1/10/2018 8:26:57 PM EDT
[#1]
Tens of thousands of rounds. Mix of post-samples and transferrables.
My go-to is Ulyanovsk and Brown Bear (also by Ulyanovsk). Only brass that goes through most of my guns is tracers, since no one makes/loads those into steel cases. |
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Posted: 1/10/2018 8:41:57 PM EDT
[#2]
I run lots of steel case ammo through my RDIAS and I did the same thing when I still had my HK sear. No problems
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Posted: 1/11/2018 12:43:28 AM EDT
[#3]
In my readings on steel cased ammo the bigger issue (from a wear standpoint) is the bi-metal bullets they use that are more abrasive compared to straight copper-alloy jackets. This (according to internet experts) leads to barrels wearing out faster. Assuming that is true, given the low cost of AR/M16 barrels I don't think this is much of an issue. It would be a bigger issue on a HK weapon where the barrel can't be unscrewed and easily replaced. Since neither the case or the bullet touch the registered parts, I don't think ammo is that important other than avoiding dangerous overpressure rounds to the greatest extent possible (i.e. factory ammo from reputable manufacturers).
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Posted: 1/12/2018 8:31:34 PM EDT
[#4]
As above, about the only brass I run through my Colt m16a1 is tracer. The vast majority that I’ve used has been Wolf steel case.
The steel case and bi-metal jackets are a little hard on the upper receiver and barrel, but shouldn’t affect anything in the lower. |
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Posted: 1/14/2018 10:55:42 AM EDT
[#5]
if you search you will find a study where they blasted 10,000 rounds of wolf steel case vs normal brass case through a AR....the steel case trashed the barrel throat and rifling at 2x the rate....
some will say who cares..for the $$ saved i can buy a new barrel and still be $1k ahead.... i shoot wolf gold through mine..i wait until i see a sale and buy 10,000 rounds....its really not that much more... maybe you think that review was BS...maybe you dont care and can just swap barrels.....for me? ill shoot brass cased |
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Posted: 1/14/2018 11:15:02 AM EDT
[#6]
The steel case....ruined barrel rifling?
99% of my NFA ammo is steel case. Zero problems, minus an occasional ROF change (less consistent powder loads; it's not match grade by any means). |
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Posted: 1/14/2018 1:14:39 PM EDT
[#7]
Just run it, with the 16s parts are dirt cheap and I’ve never had issues except how fast they gunk up when we beat them between cleanings.
I have a Valmet that prefers wolf 223 to any brass. If it runs on it then run it... for pistol calibers I don’t buy steel casing as the difference isn’t worth it. |
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Posted: 1/14/2018 1:18:52 PM EDT
[#8]
I've fired thousands through MGs, mostly Wolf. I just got a M60 broken in well enough to run reliably with Wolf. It's got a little less power, but was only 31 cents a round. It burns dirtier, but I don't buy into the 2x wear myth.
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Posted: 1/16/2018 9:48:30 AM EDT
[#9]
I only run steel on f/a on the 556 guns, mostly steel on the 762 but sometimes brass when I need to.
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Posted: 1/16/2018 3:21:34 PM EDT
[#10]
https://www.luckygunner.com/labs/brass-vs-steel-cased-ammo/
argue with lucky gunner.... they did the test |
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Posted: 1/16/2018 3:42:28 PM EDT
[#11]
Ten's of 1000's of rounds.
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Posted: 1/16/2018 4:01:50 PM EDT
[#12]
Yeah works fine, but it'll wear the barrel twice as fast. I recommend getting a cheap blasting upper.
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Posted: 1/16/2018 4:24:41 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
In my readings on steel cased ammo the bigger issue (from a wear standpoint) is the bi-metal bullets they use that are more abrasive compared to straight copper-alloy jackets. This (according to internet experts) leads to barrels wearing out faster. Assuming that is true, given the low cost of AR/M16 barrels I don't think this is much of an issue. It would be a bigger issue on a HK weapon where the barrel can't be unscrewed and easily replaced. Since neither the case or the bullet touch the registered parts, I don't think ammo is that important other than avoiding dangerous overpressure rounds to the greatest extent possible (i.e. factory ammo from reputable manufacturers). Edit: As other's have correctly pointed out, Lucky Gunner did the test and write up. Their determination wear issues were had nothing to do with the case and everything to do with the projectile. From the article: "The steel cases themselves don't have any effect on the condition of the bore. The difference lies with the projectile the soft copper jacket of the Federal ammunition simply doesn't cause the same amount of wear as the bimetal (copper and steel) jacket of the Russian ammunition" |
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Posted: 1/16/2018 4:31:28 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
https://www.luckygunner.com/labs/brass-vs-steel-cased-ammo/ argue with lucky gunner.... they did the test The steel cases are only hard on the extractors, and it's the bimetal jackets that are hard on the barrels. On a firearm with expensive, hard-to-replace barrels, gilding metal jackets, at least make economic sense. On a firearm with inexpensive and easily-replaceable barrels, they're nice to have, but not really necessary. |
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Posted: 1/17/2018 2:51:50 PM EDT
[#15]
I have 2 Model One, 1 in 7" twist, chrome lined 5.56 bbls I normally use on my M16. In the 20" bbl, factory steel case ammo fired cases stick in the chamber, so I only use brass or my reloaded steel cases in it. In the 11.5" bbl factory steel case ammo runs perfectly, mainly Silver Bear used so far. In the 1939 rounds fired in the 11.5" bbl, so far there's been no measurable throat wear. Original extractor. I generally fire a mag full auto and let the bbl cool somewhat before more firing, so it doesn't get Super Hot with repeated mag dumps.
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Posted: 1/18/2018 8:22:04 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have 2 Model One, 1 in 7" twist, chrome lined 5.56 bbls I normally use on my M16. In the 20" bbl, factory steel case ammo fired cases stick in the chamber, so I only use brass or my reloaded steel cases in it. In the 11.5" bbl factory steel case ammo runs perfectly, mainly Silver Bear used so far. In the 1939 rounds fired in the 11.5" bbl, so far there's been no measurable throat wear. Original extractor. I generally fire a mag full auto and let the bbl cool somewhat before more firing, so it doesn't get Super Hot with repeated mag dumps. Sbr's and cheapo title 1 guns. I'll run anything they digest. Same reason you probably don't want to break in your GAP with steel case wolf. If I had a rdias or ll I'd shoot whatever it would eat too. For mag dumps and plinking anyway. Ammo is like tires buy it for the reason your using it. |
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Posted: 1/21/2018 8:21:05 PM EDT
[#17]
The ONLY problem with steel I've ever had is that the ammo is usually dirtier than brass.
Slight problem being that the Wolf not being as hot as regular ammo. A lower RPM is noticeable with mag dumps. For a while THE biggest problem with steel was an awful odor after being fired.  That ended soon I'm very glad to say.
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Posted: 1/22/2018 1:11:13 PM EDT
[#18]
the lucky gunner test seems to be more of a test to failure... shooting 300 rounds straight is a bit much although I am impressed how well the rifle shooting Federal held up.
It would be nice to see how the steel case rifles held up if they were only shot 120-150 rounds between cooling periods. I have a feeling the large percentage of wear differential between the Federal and steel case rifles took place in the second half of each 300 round interval. |
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Posted: 1/22/2018 3:03:12 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It would be nice to see how the steel case rifles held up if they were only shot 120-150 rounds between cooling periods. I have a feeling the large percentage of wear differential between the Federal and steel case rifles took place in the second half of each 300 round interval. Anyway, steel casings  ...
 M60E3 prone |
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