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BIGGDAWG: Are you finding that the motor speed has to be at almost the lowest setting possible to keep the 308's in the flame long enough or do you still have room to slow it down more? I tried a few 308's and it required a pretty low setting on the case advance speed control. I was looking into the yellow canister gas to see if I could increase the heat - I think it's called MAP or something like that. Do you have any experience with it?
I ran all of my 223 cases through. I think I have that caliber down, marked the settings. I was a little bummed when finished because the process is interesting to watch. |
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
BIGGDAWG: Are you finding that the motor speed has to be at almost the lowest setting possible to keep the 308's in the flame long enough or do you still have room to slow it down more? I tried a few 308's and it required a pretty low setting on the case advance speed control. I was looking into the yellow canister gas to see if I could increase the heat - I think it's called MAP or something like that. Do you have any experience with it? I ran all of my 223 cases through. I think I have that caliber down, marked the settings. I was a little bummed when finished because the process is interesting to watch. I am also slowed way down. i have a little room to go but not a lot. the pwm's helped. i haven't used map gas with my set up but i have used it in the past for soldering and some other stuff and yes it burns hotter so you will have to be carefull. |
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Kinda bumping this thread. I want to get going on this project, but on the cheap. I ordered this motor for the case spinner-it's the one recommended in this thread:
200 RPM motor Bought these 2 PWM controls for the motors: PWM's And this geared motor for turning the blade: main motor All are from china, so there'll be a bit of wait, which is fine, since I still need to draw up the "blade" and have it waterjetted here at work. ETA: ebay parts cost about $40 altogether. Cheaper than just the Dayton geared motor. I may also just use bushings instead of bearings. Seems like bearings are overkill? |
Nothing like jumping on the fun bandwagon and just sliding across and tumbling off the far side and landing on your head in a shit pile. -nhsport
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Originally Posted By rcav8r:
Kinda bumping this thread. I want to get going on this project, but on the cheap. I ordered this motor for the case spinner-it's the one recommended in this thread: 200 RPM motor Bought these 2 PWM controls for the motors: PWM's And this geared motor for turning the blade: main motor All are from china, so there'll be a bit of wait, which is fine, since I still need to draw up the "blade" and have it waterjetted here at work. ETA: ebay parts cost about $40 altogether. Cheaper than just the Dayton geared motor. I may also just use bushings instead of bearings. Seems like bearings are overkill? I used them, but I don't think they are necessary. The blade rests on lexan to keep it level and only rotates a little each time, so it's not free spinning. Bushings of some type should work fine. Good luck. |
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Originally Posted By rcav8r: Kinda bumping this thread. I want to get going on this project, but on the cheap. I ordered this motor for the case spinner-it's the one recommended in this thread: <snip> Originally Posted By rcav8r: Kinda bumping this thread. I want to get going on this project, but on the cheap. I ordered this motor for the case spinner-it's the one recommended in this thread: <snip> All are from china, so there'll be a bit of wait, which is fine, since I still need to draw up the "blade" and have it waterjetted here at work. ETA: ebay parts cost about $40 altogether. Cheaper than just the Dayton geared motor. I may also just use bushings instead of bearings. Seems like bearings are overkill? |
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Originally Posted By rcav8r:
Kinda bumping this thread. I want to get going on this project, but on the cheap. I ordered this motor for the case spinner-it's the one recommended in this thread: 200 RPM motor Bought these 2 PWM controls for the motors: PWM's And this geared motor for turning the blade: main motor All are from china, so there'll be a bit of wait, which is fine, since I still need to draw up the "blade" and have it waterjetted here at work. ETA: ebay parts cost about $40 altogether. Cheaper than just the Dayton geared motor. I may also just use bushings instead of bearings. Seems like bearings are overkill? How did this motor work for you? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Originally Posted By BIGGDAWG:
i used the top motor and pwm's on a couple of builds and they worked great. the drive motor i used the dayton in my post works with out problems even with a pwm on it. Do you have an active link to the main motor? |
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Would this PWM work?
It seems to be cheap and located in the US for faster shipping. PWM |
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Originally Posted By Weber:
Would this PWM work? It seems to be cheap and located in the US for faster shipping. PWM That's probably close, or pretty close to the same I bought, as linked up thread. Still haven't put mine together yet. Now trying to finish the home remodel before Christmas, so we can use it. |
Nothing like jumping on the fun bandwagon and just sliding across and tumbling off the far side and landing on your head in a shit pile. -nhsport
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ok starting to gather my parts.
i see where many guys are suggesting the PWM. what are the best ways to accuratly control those? i want to be able to change cases quickly/accurately without having to reset it up everytime does the mastech power supply take care of this? |
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Originally Posted By iluvguns:
ok starting to gather my parts. i see where many guys are suggesting the PWM. what are the best ways to accurately control those? i want to be able to change cases quickly/accurately without having to reset it up everytime does the mastech power supply take care of this? If you are only going to do one motor you can use an adjustable power supply to control the blade speed - which controls the time the case is exposed to the flames. If you have one power supply and two motors (one for the blade and one for the case spinner) than you need to be control them separately. If not, speeding up the main motor will also speed up the case spinner - probably too fast to allow the case to sit properly causing it to spin off. The solution was one power source attached to two PWM's. I switched from the variable power source to a cheap fixed one. The one power source goes to the two PWMs, which control the speed of each motor independently. So I can speed up the blade as fast as it will go and slow down the case spinner to an appropriate speed. |
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
If you are only going to do one motor you can use an adjustable power supply to control the blade speed - which controls the time the case is exposed to the flames. If you have one power supply and two motors (one for the blade and one for the case spinner) than you need to be control them separately. If not, speeding up the main motor will also speed up the case spinner - probably too fast to allow the case to sit properly causing it to spin off. The solution was one power source attached to two PWM's. I switched from the variable power source to a cheap fixed one. The one power source goes to the two PWMs, which control the speed of each motor independently. So I can speed up the blade as fast as it will go and slow down the case spinner to an appropriate speed. Originally Posted By RLR350:
Originally Posted By iluvguns:
ok starting to gather my parts. i see where many guys are suggesting the PWM. what are the best ways to accurately control those? i want to be able to change cases quickly/accurately without having to reset it up everytime does the mastech power supply take care of this? If you are only going to do one motor you can use an adjustable power supply to control the blade speed - which controls the time the case is exposed to the flames. If you have one power supply and two motors (one for the blade and one for the case spinner) than you need to be control them separately. If not, speeding up the main motor will also speed up the case spinner - probably too fast to allow the case to sit properly causing it to spin off. The solution was one power source attached to two PWM's. I switched from the variable power source to a cheap fixed one. The one power source goes to the two PWMs, which control the speed of each motor independently. So I can speed up the blade as fast as it will go and slow down the case spinner to an appropriate speed. thanks for the response. i def want 2 motors (the dayton came in today) how repeatable are the PWM when changing from one cartridge to another? do you pretty much have to setup each case everytime you switch thanks |
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Originally Posted By iluvguns:
thanks for the response. i def want 2 motors (the dayton came in today) how repeatable are the PWM when changing from one cartridge to another? do you pretty much have to setup each case everytime you switch thanks Originally Posted By iluvguns:
Originally Posted By RLR350:
Originally Posted By iluvguns:
ok starting to gather my parts. i see where many guys are suggesting the PWM. what are the best ways to accurately control those? i want to be able to change cases quickly/accurately without having to reset it up everytime does the mastech power supply take care of this? If you are only going to do one motor you can use an adjustable power supply to control the blade speed - which controls the time the case is exposed to the flames. If you have one power supply and two motors (one for the blade and one for the case spinner) than you need to be control them separately. If not, speeding up the main motor will also speed up the case spinner - probably too fast to allow the case to sit properly causing it to spin off. The solution was one power source attached to two PWM's. I switched from the variable power source to a cheap fixed one. The one power source goes to the two PWMs, which control the speed of each motor independently. So I can speed up the blade as fast as it will go and slow down the case spinner to an appropriate speed. thanks for the response. i def want 2 motors (the dayton came in today) how repeatable are the PWM when changing from one cartridge to another? do you pretty much have to setup each case everytime you switch thanks The PWM's have a rotary/dial switch. Once you get .223 dialed in at the speed you want, mark a dot on your face plate. Dial in the next caliber and mark a dot. I think that would give you a repeatable mark for each caliber. |
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Originally Posted By Weber:
Started working on mine today. http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm198/WeberSteve/null_zps0ff931b2.jpg Nice idea for the table. You might want to think about putting the mason hawk plate under the blade for smoothness and to prevent the plastic from melting - if either becomes a problem. |
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
Nice idea for the table. You might want to think about putting the mason hawk plate under the blade for smoothness and to prevent the plastic from melting - if either becomes a problem. Originally Posted By RLR350:
Originally Posted By Weber:
Started working on mine today. http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm198/WeberSteve/null_zps0ff931b2.jpg Nice idea for the table. You might want to think about putting the mason hawk plate under the blade for smoothness and to prevent the plastic from melting - if either becomes a problem. Yeah, I have a few ideas if it becomes an issue. Depending on the speed it rotates pretty smoothly. Here is a short video. 
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Case spinner is kicking my @ss today.
I can get it to spin 308, but 223 either wobbles, or sits there and doesn't spin. I have tried adjusting the speed, raising & lower the case spinner, bringing the case closer to center, and scuffing the face of the spinner. I also have a piece of plastic to hold into the v section. Any ideas? |
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Originally Posted By Weber:
Case spinner is kicking my @ss today. I can get it to spin 308, but 223 either wobbles, or sits there and doesn't spin. I have tried adjusting the speed, raising & lower the case spinner, bringing the case closer to center, and scuffing the face of the spinner. I also have a piece of plastic to hold into the v section. Any ideas? My spinner is a 45 case gauge with the center portion filled with JB weld so it gets a little grip. If you look back at some of the pictures you will notice that the outside screw hole for the case spinner motor allows for some for/aft adjustment. Since the 223 is smaller diameter than the 308 you may have to move the spinner/motor a little to get the center of the spinner directly under the center of the case. I feel your frustration. I played with that for days to get it right, but now it works. Trial and error I guess. ETA: If you have not, look at the pictures of the spinner I used on page 8. |
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Originally Posted By iluvguns:
Any suggestions where to find the wire we need for the pmw etc... Anywhere. Low amperage circuit, use a small stranded copper wire. I used some 16 or 18 I had laying around. Here is a picture of my wiring under the top. 
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RLR350 where did you get your switches?
quick test with these last night and they seemed to work ok (these are the ones bigdawg is using) 
http://www.amazon.com/Converter-12V-36V-Controller-Adjuster-Driver/dp/B009HKFAIQ |
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In case you guys havnt noticed I'm an electrical newb.
But for the switches can ibuse something rated higher? Ielink |
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Originally Posted By iluvguns:
In case you guys havnt noticed I'm an electrical newb. But for the switches can ibuse something rated higher? Ielink Way more amp capacity than you'll need, so yeah, they're good. I'm going to see what my radio shack has, I hope start getting my annealer together this week. |
Nothing like jumping on the fun bandwagon and just sliding across and tumbling off the far side and landing on your head in a shit pile. -nhsport
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Originally Posted By Weber:
I used a coupler nut, with a set screw. Originally Posted By Weber:
Originally Posted By iluvguns:
for you guys with no welding supplies how are you attaching the motor to the turning bar I used a coupler nut, with a set screw. If you get a chance would you post a close up picture |
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Originally Posted By iluvguns:
If you get a chance would you post a close up picture Originally Posted By iluvguns:
Originally Posted By Weber:
Originally Posted By iluvguns:
for you guys with no welding supplies how are you attaching the motor to the turning bar I used a coupler nut, with a set screw. If you get a chance would you post a close up picture Here is one that I have, I'll take a closer one for you in a few. 
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Originally Posted By iluvguns:
for you guys with no welding supplies how are you attaching the motor to the turning bar Weber's way works well. I used the same idea by drilling and threading a set screw into a coupler found at home depot. Install it on the motor arbor and attach the spinner using the appropriate size bolt and lock washers. When I did the case feeder I need some height adjustment on the motor arm to stay our of the way of the case feeder arms. I used a set screw arbor with opposite than usual threading - so it self tightens. It looks like this, but I don't remember where I ordered it from. I used a piece of aluminum pipe the same diameter as the threaded portion, cut it to the height I needed, the installed the motor arm and nut. Edit - if you look on page six you will see pictures of the coupler with the set screw. On page seven you can see where I changed it in those pictures. |
The coupler nut is a 3/8 coupler nut, the bar is a 1"x 5-1/2 with two slotted holes, and then two 3/8 x2" bolts with washers and nuts where needed. I just drilled and tapped an 6/32 set screw into the side of the coupler nut. All bought at tractor supply for less than a couple dollars.
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Originally Posted By Weber:
Here is one that I have, I'll take a closer one for you in a few. http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm198/WeberSteve/null_zps1292a1be.jpg Originally Posted By Weber:
Originally Posted By iluvguns:
Originally Posted By Weber:
Originally Posted By iluvguns:
for you guys with no welding supplies how are you attaching the motor to the turning bar I used a coupler nut, with a set screw. If you get a chance would you post a close up picture Here is one that I have, I'll take a closer one for you in a few. http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm198/WeberSteve/null_zps1292a1be.jpg Weber - this is awesome - especially for people (myself included) who can't weld. What do you think the total cost was? Thanks |
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Originally Posted By j1rubin:
Weber - this is awesome - especially for people (myself included) who can't weld. What do you think the total cost was? Thanks Originally Posted By j1rubin:
Originally Posted By Weber:
Originally Posted By iluvguns:
Originally Posted By Weber:
Originally Posted By iluvguns:
for you guys with no welding supplies how are you attaching the motor to the turning bar I used a coupler nut, with a set screw. If you get a chance would you post a close up picture Here is one that I have, I'll take a closer one for you in a few. http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm198/WeberSteve/null_zps1292a1be.jpg Weber - this is awesome - especially for people (myself included) who can't weld. What do you think the total cost was? Thanks For everything or just the arm? The arm, maybe $3.00, everything about $150. I'm still playing with the case spinner, once I have that working 110% I'll move on to the case feeder. |
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Originally Posted By iluvguns:
RLR350 where did you get your switches? quick test with these last night and they seemed to work ok (these are the ones bigdawg is using) http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/715AV650YbL._SL1500_.jpg http://www.amazon.com/Converter-12V-36V-Controller-Adjuster-Driver/dp/B009HKFAIQ I used the MX033 on this page. I think they are the same thing pretty much except you have wired switches and mine were on the circuit board. Edit: I didn't read that right. I got the switches at Radio Shack in the drawers they have. Some are lighted, some are not. I used the lighted ones. They provide the on/off and the PWMs control the variance in speed. |
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OK guys here's where in confused bigdawg said
. you have to have the motor set up adjustable unless you are going to only do one size case head. so what i did is made a jig bolted it to the bearing and used it to guide the drill bit as i slotted the mounting holes
i then just barely tightened the inside bolt –– you can't get to it with the plate on–– and i made my adjustments with the outboard screw. What exactly is being adjusted? |
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Originally Posted By iluvguns:
OK guys here's where in confused bigdawg said What exactly is being adjusted? Originally Posted By iluvguns:
OK guys here's where in confused bigdawg said . you have to have the motor set up adjustable unless you are going to only do one size case head. so what i did is made a jig bolted it to the bearing and used it to guide the drill bit as i slotted the mounting holes
i then just barely tightened the inside bolt –– you can't get to it with the plate on–– and i made my adjustments with the outboard screw. What exactly is being adjusted? What i am talking about is the case spin motor had to be adjustable so you can run different case heads. yo can see the screws in this pic, the holes in the plate are slotted so the motor can be moved. 
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Originally Posted By iluvguns:
OK guys here's where in confused bigdawg said What exactly is being adjusted? Originally Posted By iluvguns:
OK guys here's where in confused bigdawg said . you have to have the motor set up adjustable unless you are going to only do one size case head. so what i did is made a jig bolted it to the bearing and used it to guide the drill bit as i slotted the mounting holes
i then just barely tightened the inside bolt –– you can't get to it with the plate on–– and i made my adjustments with the outboard screw. What exactly is being adjusted? He is talking about the case spinner. Different diameter cases will land on the case spinner in different areas, but they need to be centered in order to spin properly. The spinner motor mounts with two screws, one inner and one outer. He elongated the hole for the outer screw so the spinner can pivot a little for and aft to adjust it for different cases. I followed his lead. The amount of adjustment is minimal, but necessary - say going from a 223 that lands centered, then moving to a 308 that will not land centered, you would have to move the spinner a little one way or the other by pivoting the motor in the elongated screw hole. Not mentioned here, but the other adjustment will be to the height of the flame. For taller cases you will need to raise the torches to hit the neck, and lower the torches for shorter cases. Edit: Biggdawg responded while I was typing and his picture is worth a thousand words. |
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You guys think I have too much tension?
The motor doesn't slow down, but it does make a noise as its moving the plate Bearing setup is the same as bigdawgs. I'm using 5 prices of .06 kydex under the plate for tension. 4 was too little [youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtSrYaXZ9ZE&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/youtube] Guess its time for me to reup. Embed doesn't work https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtSrYaXZ9ZE&feature=youtube_gdata_player |
Amazing how the great Annealer project has evolved! I'm hoping for a March start-up date for mine....finally....have the motors and the saw.....time to start collecting the rest of the materials......some of which have changed from the beginning!
Biggdawg and the rest of the project participants, are you all still convinced the case spinner makes for a better annealing job? If so does the case the spinning speed need to be that fast? |
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