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Here's why I ask: I don't have a whole lot of extra space to store it so I've been working on an oak compact version design that is only 12x18x8".....about the size a a 12" cinder block. Posting a picture.....hoping you guys with experience can read it and critique before I commit with the build. A plastic tray would slide in from the front for small jobs with the option of a cutout in the bottom to allow it to sit on a fold away base with a can under it. The top would be inlayed metal over MDF with oak trim. Thoughts? What would be really cool is to put an engine turned finish on an aluminum top. I'd have to do that myself or the budget would get shot to hell.  that would be a nice contrast to the oak everywhere else. I think there's room left for a feeder as well, but I'll build on the cheaper Lee idea shown to work by one of the other rouges who built out of wood! Great job BTW RLR350! I like the direction the power supply went. Simpler is better. |
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Nice drawings GWhis. Certainly more thought went into it than my trial and error, cut and recut method. I can't believe how many times i had to re do somethings.
You asked about the spinner. It is probably the most frustrating part, but if you plan to do it take a look at my pictures. The mounting method is working great. I think it is debatable whether or not it is worth it. The cases probably get equal heat sitting in the one position, but the spinner will even the markings a little. The only way to do it is with two PWMS though. Wiring both the blade rotating motor and spinner motor in one PWM will not allow you to slow the blade down and keep the spinner moving. Both would slow down or speed up equally. This is more important if the blade speed is fast. The spinner would run too fast to keep the cases on it. The Lee collater has been a great, inexpensive addition. Since I don't think leaving the annealer alone while running is a good idea, the limited capacity of the Lee is beneficial in forcing me not to walk away. The clear feed tubes are a pretty universal size allowing for a variety of cases. Also, take a good look at the adjustments I built in. I have moved from short 300 blk cases to tall 30-06 pretty easily. Allowing up/down adjustment of the Lee tower is the key, along with making being able to adjust the platform height of the awaiting case holder (the part that holds the next case and moves it to dropping.) I made it out of three layers of 3/8" HDPE. Removing one layer allows for the short 300 blk Removing two layers allows for feeding pistol brass. Good luck - looking forward tot he result. |
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Anyone have any suggestions for the case spinner platform?
I don't have access to any machinery to make a custom platform. I was thinking about taking a flange spin lock nut and grinding is smooth on the bottom. Then mount it upside down and fill the hole bolt hole in with JB weld after it has been threaded on to the spinner motor. Thoughts? Thanks, CM |
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Originally Posted By GWhis:
Here's why I ask: I don't have a whole lot of extra space to store it so I've been working on an oak compact version design that is only 12x18x8".....about the size a a 12" cinder block. Posting a picture.....hoping you guys with experience can read it and critique before I commit with the build. A plastic tray would slide in from the front for small jobs with the option of a cutout in the bottom to allow it to sit on a fold away base with a can under it. The top would be inlayed metal over MDF with oak trim. Thoughts? What would be really cool is to put an engine turned finish on an aluminum top. I'd have to do that myself or the budget would get shot to hell. that would be a nice contrast to the oak everywhere else.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad195/gstrad/Annealer3-Model.png I think there's room left for a feeder as well, but I'll build on the cheaper Lee idea shown to work by one of the other rouges who built out of wood! Great job BTW RLR350! I like the direction the power supply went. Simpler is better.
Do your machine turning with a drill press and a cone type wire brush, an abrasive cylinder, or even a wood dowel with a cross slot to hold valve grinding compound. All of these methods work well on aluminum. A layout to space the turnings looks much better than applying the decoration in a random pattern. Now I need to read the rest of the thread. |
It is not easy to explain Liberty to those that are not familiar with Liberty. Kevin Jamison, on explaining firearm regulation to a Massachusetts lawyer. Jeff City, Mo 18 Apr 13.
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Originally Posted By AeroE:
Do your machine turning with a drill press and a cone type wire brush, an abrasive cylinder, or even a wood dowel with a cross slot to hold valve grinding compound. All of these methods work well on aluminum. A layout to space the turnings looks much better than applying the decoration in a random pattern. Now I need to read the rest of the thread. Originally Posted By AeroE:
Originally Posted By GWhis:
Here's why I ask: I don't have a whole lot of extra space to store it so I've been working on an oak compact version design that is only 12x18x8".....about the size a a 12" cinder block. Posting a picture.....hoping you guys with experience can read it and critique before I commit with the build. A plastic tray would slide in from the front for small jobs with the option of a cutout in the bottom to allow it to sit on a fold away base with a can under it. The top would be inlayed metal over MDF with oak trim. Thoughts? What would be really cool is to put an engine turned finish on an aluminum top. I'd have to do that myself or the budget would get shot to hell. that would be a nice contrast to the oak everywhere else.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad195/gstrad/Annealer3-Model.png I think there's room left for a feeder as well, but I'll build on the cheaper Lee idea shown to work by one of the other rouges who built out of wood! Great job BTW RLR350! I like the direction the power supply went. Simpler is better.
Do your machine turning with a drill press and a cone type wire brush, an abrasive cylinder, or even a wood dowel with a cross slot to hold valve grinding compound. All of these methods work well on aluminum. A layout to space the turnings looks much better than applying the decoration in a random pattern. Now I need to read the rest of the thread. Hmmm.......I was aware of the abrasive cylinder method. Wire brush and wood dowel with a slot? Interesting.....some experimentation is the next order of business. Thanks for the ideas! Not being an auto mechanic, I need to figure out where one buys valve grinding compound........a place like NAPA auto parts? I really think that finish would highlight the whole project with a little class......IF the job can be done well....random as you say is certainly out. I get excited with new projects.....almost as fun as shooting and reloading.......no even more fun than reloading.
If I'd quit starting projects I might get more reloading done! I recently gave away my first-year-stainless Mini 14 to my Son for Christmas! So I was left with .223 components and no gun. What's a guy to do? I just bought another Ruger. A 556 piston AR.  So now I need to get some reloading done.....I had to BUY ammo to try it out! Bought a box of everything I could find from Wolf to Hornady to see what it can digest.......everything.....Hornady was MOA, standing, with iron sights at 100 meters. Not a bad start. I need reloads on a bench to really test it, but most of my brass needs annealed, so I need to get busy.
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Auto parts stores will have Clover brand valve lapping compound. It used to be sold in little squeeze tubes, a pint can will last for a thousand projects.
There are probably other ways to get an abrasive paste. A quick experiment with baking soda mixed into petroleum jelly or grease is most likely in order. Little discs of sand paper stuck to the end of a dowel, or discs of the brown scotchbrite pads for metal stuck on will probably work fine. Sandpaper would be a pain in the neck to constantly change out. I'm pretty cheap. Several years ago I made inletting black by grinding charcoal as fine as I could by hand, then mixed it with petroleum jelly. It's a little course to work well, what is really needed is just the dust from the process of grinding. One of the projects on my list is to try refining some in my rotary tumbler by putting the charcoal in a large pill bottle with a couple of nuts or screws; a bottle with a sheet metal screw to keep the lid on. I bet that will get the result I want. Clover Lapping Compounds Look around here for ideas |
It is not easy to explain Liberty to those that are not familiar with Liberty. Kevin Jamison, on explaining firearm regulation to a Massachusetts lawyer. Jeff City, Mo 18 Apr 13.
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Originally Posted By GWhis:
Hmmm.......I was aware of the abrasive cylinder method. Wire brush and wood dowel with a slot? Interesting.....some experimentation is the next order of business. Thanks for the ideas! Not being an auto mechanic, I need to figure out where one buys valve grinding compound........a place like NAPA auto parts? I really think that finish would highlight the whole project with a little class......IF the job can be done well....random as you say is certainly out. I get excited with new projects.....almost as fun as shooting and reloading.......no even more fun than reloading.
If I'd quit starting projects I might get more reloading done! I recently gave away my first-year-stainless Mini 14 to my Son for Christmas! So I was left with .223 components and no gun. What's a guy to do? I just bought another Ruger. A 556 piston AR. So now I need to get some reloading done.....I had to BUY ammo to try it out! Bought a box of everything I could find from Wolf to Hornady to see what it can digest.......everything.....Hornady was MOA, standing, with iron sights at 100 meters. Not a bad start. I need reloads on a bench to really test it, but most of my brass needs annealed, so I need to get busy.
Originally Posted By GWhis:
Originally Posted By AeroE:
Originally Posted By GWhis:
Here's why I ask: I don't have a whole lot of extra space to store it so I've been working on an oak compact version design that is only 12x18x8".....about the size a a 12" cinder block. Posting a picture.....hoping you guys with experience can read it and critique before I commit with the build. A plastic tray would slide in from the front for small jobs with the option of a cutout in the bottom to allow it to sit on a fold away base with a can under it. The top would be inlayed metal over MDF with oak trim. Thoughts? What would be really cool is to put an engine turned finish on an aluminum top. I'd have to do that myself or the budget would get shot to hell. that would be a nice contrast to the oak everywhere else.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad195/gstrad/Annealer3-Model.png I think there's room left for a feeder as well, but I'll build on the cheaper Lee idea shown to work by one of the other rouges who built out of wood! Great job BTW RLR350! I like the direction the power supply went. Simpler is better.
Do your machine turning with a drill press and a cone type wire brush, an abrasive cylinder, or even a wood dowel with a cross slot to hold valve grinding compound. All of these methods work well on aluminum. A layout to space the turnings looks much better than applying the decoration in a random pattern. Now I need to read the rest of the thread. Hmmm.......I was aware of the abrasive cylinder method. Wire brush and wood dowel with a slot? Interesting.....some experimentation is the next order of business. Thanks for the ideas! Not being an auto mechanic, I need to figure out where one buys valve grinding compound........a place like NAPA auto parts? I really think that finish would highlight the whole project with a little class......IF the job can be done well....random as you say is certainly out. I get excited with new projects.....almost as fun as shooting and reloading.......no even more fun than reloading.
If I'd quit starting projects I might get more reloading done! I recently gave away my first-year-stainless Mini 14 to my Son for Christmas! So I was left with .223 components and no gun. What's a guy to do? I just bought another Ruger. A 556 piston AR. So now I need to get some reloading done.....I had to BUY ammo to try it out! Bought a box of everything I could find from Wolf to Hornady to see what it can digest.......everything.....Hornady was MOA, standing, with iron sights at 100 meters. Not a bad start. I need reloads on a bench to really test it, but most of my brass needs annealed, so I need to get busy.
"If I'd quit starting projects I might get more reloading done!" - GWhis This needs to be on a T-shirt, coffee mug, and hat. |
"...while democracy seeks equality in liberty, socialism seeks equality in restraint and servitude" -Alexis de Tocqueville
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Originally Posted By AeroE:
Auto parts stores will have Clover brand valve lapping compound. It used to be sold in little squeeze tubes, a pint can will last for a thousand projects. There are probably other ways to get an abrasive paste. A quick experiment with baking soda mixed into petroleum jelly or grease is most likely in order. Little discs of sand paper stuck to the end of a dowel, or discs of the brown scotchbrite pads for metal stuck on will probably work fine. Sandpaper would be a pain in the neck to constantly change out. I'm pretty cheap. Several years ago I made inletting black by grinding charcoal as fine as I could by hand, then mixed it with petroleum jelly. It's a little course to work well, what is really needed is just the dust from the process of grinding. One of the projects on my list is to try refining some in my rotary tumbler by putting the charcoal in a large pill bottle with a couple of nuts or screws; a bottle with a sheet metal screw to keep the lid on. I bet that will get the result I want. Clover Lapping Compounds Look around here for ideas Originally Posted By AeroE:
Auto parts stores will have Clover brand valve lapping compound. It used to be sold in little squeeze tubes, a pint can will last for a thousand projects. There are probably other ways to get an abrasive paste. A quick experiment with baking soda mixed into petroleum jelly or grease is most likely in order. Little discs of sand paper stuck to the end of a dowel, or discs of the brown scotchbrite pads for metal stuck on will probably work fine. Sandpaper would be a pain in the neck to constantly change out. I'm pretty cheap. Several years ago I made inletting black by grinding charcoal as fine as I could by hand, then mixed it with petroleum jelly. It's a little course to work well, what is really needed is just the dust from the process of grinding. One of the projects on my list is to try refining some in my rotary tumbler by putting the charcoal in a large pill bottle with a couple of nuts or screws; a bottle with a sheet metal screw to keep the lid on. I bet that will get the result I want. Clover Lapping Compounds Look around here for ideas To make machine circles uniform, I'm thinking the lapping compound may be best. Sandpaper wears quickly and will produce varying abrasion. Scotchbrite discs would last longer, but you'd need something to punch several out the same size. I'll experiment before I make anything. I wonder if you could make in-letting black by just burning acetylene (minus the oxygen), producing lots of soot inside a glass bottle and add some petroleum jelly. Originally Posted By TXN_Infidel:
"If I'd quit starting projects I might get more reloading done!" - GWhis This needs to be on a T-shirt, coffee mug, and hat. TXN.......Tee-shirts would be a project.....that wouldn't help. 
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Do you really think it is worth the time? I thought about it, then decided to leave the surface shiny. (I think you are talking about the plate the brass travels on, right?) For one, unless it turned out perfect I wouldn't be happy.
I had a minor concern that a rough surface might "trip" the brass is it wasn't smooth enough. Maybe not a real concern, but I gave it some thought. After about 500 cases passing across the surface, the case bottoms have formed a path in the aluminum, kind of polishing the arc between the case feeder and the torches. The more I use it the more things have smoothed out. I'm looking forward to seeing how your project turns out! |
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
Do you really think it is worth the time? I thought about it, then decided to leave the surface shiny. (I think you are talking about the plate the brass travels on, right?) For one, unless it turned out perfect I wouldn't be happy. I had a minor concern that a rough surface might "trip" the brass is it wasn't smooth enough. Maybe not a real concern, but I gave it some thought. After about 500 cases passing across the surface, the case bottoms have formed a path in the aluminum, kind of polishing the arc between the case feeder and the torches. The more I use it the more things have smoothed out. I'm looking forward to seeing how your project turns out! I just finished mine and I am having the tripping problem right now. Any ideas on how to correct this? |
"...while democracy seeks equality in liberty, socialism seeks equality in restraint and servitude" -Alexis de Tocqueville
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
Where is it tripping? Everywhere...Sometimes they move two-three spots fine and then all fall forward. I am thinking it is the surface needing to be polished up a bit... |
"...while democracy seeks equality in liberty, socialism seeks equality in restraint and servitude" -Alexis de Tocqueville
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Originally Posted By TXN_Infidel:
Everywhere...Sometimes they move two-three spots fine and then all fall forward. I am thinking it is the surface needing to be polished up a bit... Originally Posted By TXN_Infidel:
Originally Posted By RLR350:
Where is it tripping? Everywhere...Sometimes they move two-three spots fine and then all fall forward. I am thinking it is the surface needing to be polished up a bit... if they tip when moving either the wheel is too far off the base or it is hitting the cases too hard and needs a little resistance to keep it more steady. |
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Originally Posted By BIGGDAWG:
if they tip when moving either the wheel is too far off the base or it is hitting the cases too hard and needs a little resistance to keep it more steady. Originally Posted By BIGGDAWG:
Originally Posted By TXN_Infidel:
Originally Posted By RLR350:
Where is it tripping? Everywhere...Sometimes they move two-three spots fine and then all fall forward. I am thinking it is the surface needing to be polished up a bit... if they tip when moving either the wheel is too far off the base or it is hitting the cases too hard and needs a little resistance to keep it more steady. I am using the same bearing setup you used with the tall side up. I think I need some resistance on my blade... I will tinker and get back. |
"...while democracy seeks equality in liberty, socialism seeks equality in restraint and servitude" -Alexis de Tocqueville
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Try some lexan sheet (or a piece of plastic from a snowmobile) between the blade and the floor plate. Then a wing nut on the post above the blade can be used to adjust the tension. The blade, without any tension, will move too freely and kick the cases when the motor arm makes contact on each rotation.
ETA: Like this - two sheets of lexan on top of each other, The four screw in the base plate allow the lexan to spin, but prevent it from moving out from under the blade. The three screws holding the bearing do the same for inward movement. 
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