Using Expert Voice I was able to get a good deal on this sharpener system.  I ordered them but they haven't shipped yet (it's a weekend) and now I'm wondering if I should have dome more research.

Background: I absolutely SUCK at sharpening knives.  I've tried various stone sets, knives come out duller than when I started.  I had a Lansky set back in the 80s and sucked with that.  More recently I had the best EdgePro Apex set I could find.  Both of these options didn't work for me because they seem to rely on the knife having a flat profile along the spine in order to clamp them in, and not all my knives had that (or the flat area of the spine was too small to use).  So I gave up on clamp style sharpeners.

Now I have the Spyderco Sharpmaker set, but don't trust my good knives to it because the blade angle is ambiguous- seems to depend on your viewing angle and ability to determine vertically "straight" with just your eye.

As a result, my good knives are getting dull.  

So, if you have the Sharpmaker Ken Onion sharpener, please send along your tricks, tips, and hints about using them.  If you have the Blade Grinding attachment even better!

I ordered it, it's coming, so telling me I should have gotten X product instead isn't going to help.  I would love to hear from users of this sharpener.

EDIT to add the pic, as we all love them.

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Workshop has some good videos on their website. Their sharpener will round the point on a blade if you don't use it correctly and one of their videos shows how to prevent this.

Also, you are removing more metal than you think you are so stop and look at what you have done every pass.

I have the Ken Onion WorkSharp but not the attachment but I do plan to get it.  

My advice, from experience, is to start with your "cheap" knives.  There is a learning curve and you don't want to learn with your good knives.  

Be very careful with the tip of the blade, it's extremely easy to dull it if you pull it all the way across the belt.  Always pull the blade off the belt before the tip gets to the edge.  The instructions and instructional videos will show you what and what not to do.  Just go slow, the belts will take too much steel if you don't pay close attention to what you're doing.

I started out using the guide until I got good at using the WorkSharp but I've started freehanding it to get sharper angles.  

The only issue I've had with mine is sharpening my Piranha with CPM S30V.   It doesn't work very well on it.  I can't get it to make a burr no matter how much I try.  On every other steel I have it creates a fantastic edge.  Once I can afford it I'm going to get a diamond plate sharpener for the S30V blade.

I'm surprised at how fast EV shipped this.  Looks like the set will arrive Thursday, so I'll play around with it this weekend.

Well...... after over an hour of trying, doing everything the way they say to do it, the test knife* is duller than when I began.  

Four times I started over with the 120 grit and worked my way thru the belts.  Every time at the end the knife just tears my test paper.  I got it to cut a little once, but trying to fine-tune the hone just made it dull.

I got a fair edge without the blade grinding attachment just using the guide on the basic tool, but even then I can't keep the blade in the groove straight.

Went back to the blade grinding attachment and had another couple rounds of fail.

* my test knife is a stainless (Japan) hunting style that's a knock-off of the standard Buck hunter.  I picked it up at a gun show in CA back in the early 80s.

Are you making sure you have a burr switching sides the first time?

Take a black sharpie and color the edge.  Make a swipe on the sharpener and see where you are grinding.

Yes, getting a good burr, switching sides and going the same number of strokes, and getting a burr on that side.  Then on to the next belt.

Curious why they don't have the belt spinning towards the blade, just like when you're sharpening on a stone - pushing the blade.

It's too dangerous to sharpen into a spinning belt.  The blade edge could easily cut the belt or the belt could catch the knife and quickly force it out of your hand causing injury.  Things that can't happen with a stone.  

I would second the recommendation of coloring the edge with a sharpie so you know when you have the perfect angle.  I had to do that with my WorkSharp.  I now keep a marker with the sharpener all the time.  I also watched a ton of videos to learn as many tips as possible.   As I said before, there's a learning curve so don't get discouraged yet, you'll master it.

I’m not a sharpening expert by any means so someone else may disprove what I’m saying.  

That said, I read this once when researching on knife sharpening.  It made sense and I have done it before with some success:

In case you have formed some sort of really thin burr that is bent over (or continues to bend back and forth as you sharpen), before “starting over” take the knife edge and drag it directly across a stone.  Like you are trying to slice it in half.   That will get rid of the flexible burr that has formed



Also, in my experience with the work sharp you can go “too far” pretty quickly.   I’ve had knives that were sharp but seemed to get dull as I tried to get the edge just a little more sharp.  I’m not sure if that’s because I formed a flexible burr like I mentioned above or what.    

I have the Work Sharp Onion with attachment.  I watched several videos and used an inexpensive knife to start.

After getting it sharp, I moved onto our Henckel kitchen knives.  

I also have the Wicked Sharp system as well.

For a non knife person, non sharpening person, both systems are dead easy to use.   Really easy, if you follow the directions and / or watch the videos.  

The Wicked Sharp definitely gives a sharper edge, from me.  However I can get all the knives very sharp using the WS system in the time it takes me to get a single knife exceptionally sharp using the WE system.  

Watch the videos, do what they say.

I have the Ken Onion and blade grinding attachment.  

I start at the heel of the blade and move slowly to the tip.

When the tip gets to the center of the belt I start slowly back to the heel.

Be careful. If you slip off the belt with the tip you will round the tip quickly.

Slow belt speed at first until you get the hang of it. You can turn it up when you get comfortable.

I use two hands for steadiness.

I've made a few more attempts to get an edge on my test knife, better results but still not satisfactory.

I get a good looking edge.  

I get an edge that feel sharp on my thumb.  

I get an edge that doesn't cut ribbons out of paper, it just shreds the paper.  

I have the ken onion work sharp. But not the grinder attachment.  I get great results sharpening knives.  Just be careful with the tips of knives. And use the little guide that pulls and rotates out when the knife allows it.

Use light to medium pressure when sharpening. You don't want to flex the belt too much. Else it will have a more rounded edge. Less sharp.

I want one of these. Keep watching the prices but they never seem to go on sale.

You may have it sharp and just be fighting residual burr on the paper test.

Try this, once you have finished your last belt take your knife and lightly pull the blade against the edge of a cutting board or other chunk of wood, like you're trying to put a very superficial slice in it.  Then, strop your knife on a piece of cardboard, newspaper, leather or denim. Try the cut test again and see if it makes a difference.  If it cuts the paper you were just having problems with the burr, if it still won't cut post a video of you sharpening so we can see the problem.

(Laughing in 2hp belt grinder, going edge into the belt 100% of the time)

You can't see the edge of you grind with the edge down.

I've been planning on getting this knife sharpener.

In for the info.