I'm looking for a solvent trap kit to build my 22 can. I've had the Form 1 approved for a couple months.

Rusty from the form1suppressor forum is currently unavailable for a few months, and I am getting no response from Chris(?) at DM.

I would prefer a kit with a titanium tube, some 60 degree cones; all aluminum except the blast baffle which I would prefer to be stainless. Stainless thread adapter also.

Can anyone point me to kit with these specs? I would prefer a B tube size.

I did find this one: https://www.form1builder.com/product/1-14-rimfire-22-cal-solvent-trap-kit-6-long/

I like that one except for the fact that it's all aluminum. I emailed them and he said the tube and cones were 6061 and the thread adapter and end cap were 7075.  My concern is long term longevity. Screwing and unscrewing AL on a steel muzzle repeatedly doesn't seem like a great idea. Maybe I can mix and match some parts from other manufacturers?

I would really appreciate any input from y'all!

Chris at DM is really busy. If you order his 1.125 X 0.995 X 5.?" Ti tube you can put a note in with your order specifying front cap material, mount material and thread pitch, and cup style (radial or 60 degree cones) and count/materials.  He will email you back, usually within a week with quote and lead time. He will cut the BC spacer so that the front cap compresses the stack.

It's a little weird because you are ordering a part using PayPal, but until he replies you don't know the final cost. I'd guess about $15 for each cup and the mount and front cap prices are on the website.  You don't save much on a top quality Form 1 rimfire build, particularly when you add in laser engraving.

Yeah, I knew I wasn’t going to save much if any by building over buying a commercial can. I like building stuff and what not.

I know Chris is busy, he’s pretty popular. But if I’m going to end up waiting 2 or 3 months or longer for the parts I’d rather order from somewhere else.

Do you happen to know his current estimated wait times? I assume he’d be quicker to respond to an actual order over just a question.

I thought if DM has it listed on their website that it's in-stock?
The Ti tube and end caps are on the site.
Totality Industries has the cones.

Makes sense, but I'm not sure.

Does anyone know for sure?

Also, I'd rather not have to cut any spacers as I'd have to borrow a saw.

How would, say, Totality Industries cut the appropriate spacers? Do they/does anyone know the measurement of a DM 1.125 5.75" tube, length between the threads?

I believe on DM's larger tubes the cap threading intrudes about 0.4" on each end. I'd assume the smaller tube is the same.

Even with in-stock orders he can take a week to respond.  If you can add it to your cart it's in stock.

If totality has half inch spacers, all you would need is a tubing cutter for the blast chamber. It's tough to cut small even spacers with a tubing cutter but for the BC it should be doable. Even 1" 6061 Al tube from Ace or HD is ok for a rimfire BC.

For the Form 1 builder kit you could use their 5/8-24 mount and bond in a steel 1/2-28 thread adapter from Precision Armament (Brownells or direct from PA).  That will get you steel muzzle thread mating. You could fab a stainless blast baffle from a valve retainer or just rotate the aluminum ones.

I like the way you think, thank you for your input.

I believe the Form 1 Builder kit has a blast chamber spacer included. I do like the idea of the threaded adapter bonded in the larger threads. I think I'll do your suggestion with their aluminum kit. And order/make a steel blast baffle.
As for the end caps and baffles, I was thinking about anodizing them at home. If it's cheap and not too difficult. Would this affect tolerances enough to cause issues?

If not anodizing, I wonder if a thick coating of a thermal-cured finish like KG GunKote or Moly Resin would improve wear resistance on the baffles? Or would it be ruined in 100 rounds?
To be clear I would tape off the skirt area of the baffles and just coat the sloped area of the cones. Just a thought.

Thanks to anyone else.

I've never home anodized. My understanding is it is just a sulfuric acid bath with DC current and some kind of durable cathode (lead) with the work piece as anode. I might have that backwards. . But it does build a film thickness of aluminum oxide the longer it is done. I think it is somewhat self limiting as the film is resistive and the rate of growth drops as the film builds.  Some cooling might also be needed.  You'd want to try it out and work out the part areas and current density and some kind of amperage control. For baffles no reason to mess with colored dyes.

I suspect a thin film of anodizing won't interfer with fit if allowances are generous.  I also would expect that anodizing will hold up better on baffles than even moly resin.

Home anodizing is super easy. A bit involved, but simple. You don't need any "dangerous" substances. Some pool chemicals, common household items, and distilled water.

Remember:
Positive + always goes on what's gaining
Negative - always goes on what's losing

When anodizing, the Aluminum is gaining layers so connect it to the positive
When using electricity to remove rust (electrolysis) the piece is losing the rust so connect it to the negative

One of the crucial things to be sure of is the grade aluminum you're anodizing. Be sure your cathode is the same grade. Lead can be used, but the water can become toxic and I get best results when using aluminum.

Here's a great link to get you started.

Except it will help you see if you actually created an anodic layer, and about how thick with mild destructive testing.  Useful when you have few controls and little experience.

A ~15-20% sulphuric acid bath (auto parts store battery acid is not pure, so you'll be more like 2 parts water to 1 part battery acid), kept below 75°F if possible, and a power supply that will maintain around 20V will give good results.  12V will work, but that's not enough "pressure" for a thicker anodic layer like you're for wanting durability.  Lead or aluminum cathode amounting to about 1/3 the surface area of the anode parts.  Time varies based on current; best bet is to actually watch the parts.  They'll turn a darker flat grey.  What you don't want is any kind of pitting or yellowish-brown tint; if that happens, you're over-anodized (burnt).  If the acid concentration is too high, bath temp too high, amperage too high or cathode too large, you'll burn parts pretty easily.

Home anodizing is basically all gonna be type II.  Type III "hard coat" requires far more control of the process than most home anodizers would have the budget or inclination to deal with.  And type III really won't take dye, cells are too small.

ETA: You'll definitely want to do a few test pieces of the same alloy before attacking your baffles/caps/tube.

Now titanium anodizing is a whole other animal, and it does nothing for durability; strictly cosmetic.  You can also flame anodize Ti, just watch that you don't distort your tube.

Like Aluminum, Titanium anodizing has a type 2&3, you're confusing the two. However, they're somewhat opposite of one another.

Aluminum Type 3 is much stronger than 2 and doesn't take to dying.

Titanium Type 2, on the other hand, is used to improve the overall fatigue strength, corrosion resistance, and lubricity; while Type 3 is strictly for coloring. Type 2 also improves the strength of Titanium threads and alleviates the occurrence of galling. The anodic layers penetrate the Ti and do not build-up on the surface. The standards can be read in SAE AMS 2488d.

The aerospace industry uses Type 2, Anodized Ti for these exact reasons.

Not confusing anything.  Type II for Ti, like type III for Al, is really not a home process, requires a lot more than a tub with a water/borax mix & variable power supply.

@Sixtysixdeuce
You stated:
I'm simply letting everyone know this is incorrect.
In no way did I mention the feasibility of doing Type 3 Al or Type 2 Ti anodizing at home.

The OP wishes to try his hand at anodizing the Aluminum baffles, to which I gave a brief description of involvement.

Why you shoot everyone's ideas down is unbeknownst to me

What are you talking about? Whose idea did I say was no good?  I gave OP a rundown on basic home type II aluminum anodizing, and mentioned color anodizing for Ti, with footnotes that hard coat anodizing is not really a garage operation.