Are the Titanium Nitride worth double the cost as the polished steel.  I am starting to play with  my new die set I got for Christmas and need to order the bushings.  Titanium is out of stock at most places but the steel is in and almost half the price. I usually go for the best quality stuff and if it makes a difference I have no problem waiting.

I have both and prefer the titanium.  The steel works fine but the titanium is slicker and takes a lot less effort to size.

Also note, while with the specific bushing I tried was sizing my necks less than a normal die, it still required far more lube than normally used. TiN coated too.

Is this from one-shot being a poor lube? Maybe. I'll still be using it for other reasons.

The take-away here, is don't be afraid to lube them up.

Nice part of the type S, is that you can take it apart with a case stuck in it, and work the expander ball through. Then use a long punch to knock the case out instead of having to D&T the flash hole. Case is still destroyed.

Buy once, cry once.  TiN only for me.  Once you process a few thousand, you really don't think much about how much those bushings cost.

If you're using neck bushings in the first place then you're probably concerned about being precise in your sizing operations. Either to minimize working of the brass or to set your neck tension.

Consequently, you want to minimize the force and stress applied to the brass. So, best practice would seem to be:

1 - use good lube, not HOS

2 - use the slickest hardest bushings available, TiN


All that said, you've got your work cut out for you if you want to prove a difference on target between steel vs TiN bushings.

I have probably 20 Redding bushings and all but two are TiN coated.

Chris

What size bushing are you after.

Release the hive!

They will help you find a TiN-coated one.

This. And you're sure to never scratch the TiN.

Thank you all for the input.  I am just venturing into precision reloading since I have all of my plinking rounds loaded up and all of my pistol rounds loaded for the most part.  Looking at .336, .337,  and .338 bushings.  I need to really take some time and remeasure my brass.  I have everything separated by head stamp and many by individual lots.  Would it be wise to turn the different headstamps/lots to the same thickness so I can use the same bushing size?

I have a selection of and use only steel bushings.  If you are doing full length sizing using a neck bushing die, I doubt you'll be able to feel the difference.  If you are neck sizing but not sizing your case body, the amount of force required when you are using steel is so minimal, (to me) making it easier would have no practical effect.  When I FL size, I use IPA/lanolin lube and it works just fine.  When I neck size only, I use no lube although my cases are very clean and have been tumbled (last) in walnut medium treated with ~1 teaspoon of mineral spirits / NuFinish 1:1.

If you are going to neck turn a batch/group of brass, the reason to do so is for uniform neck tension.  If you use good brass, your neck wall thickness should be pretty uniform - more than good enough for the average shooter with OCD.  If you are an extreme long distance shooter with OCD, you will turn necks and anneal your necks every reloading cycle.

If you are doing load development for precision, you will likely only develop the load using 1 specific headstamp...  preferably a headstamp known for quality and consistency (Lapua, Peterson, Alpha, etc.).  The more consistent your cases, the more consistent your hand loaded ammunition will be.  Mixed headstamps (even if you turn all the necks to be the same) and precision don't go together...

Best,

- Reo -

Thanks for the insight.  I didn't plan to mix the headstamps after turning the necks.  They would still be separate but Then maybe I wouldn't have to swap out the bushings or readjust the die I was thinking.  But if I used the different headstamps for different guns I would probably have to readjust the die to bump the shoulders back individually as each gun would have a small difference in headspacing.  Unless I just bumped them back to the shortest chamber and ran with that.

OR...  You could get a set of Redding Competition shell holders.  I have 3 .308 Win bolt action rifles and I effectively do as you have described.  I use Federal brass for my R700, Lapua brass for my Bergara HMR, and Alpha brass for my newest (Christmas 2020) rifle.  My dies are all in Hornady Lock-n-Load bushings so they pop in and out of my single stage press in 2 seconds...  I never adjust dies, I use Redding Competition shell holders to make fine adjustments regarding headspace - it's quick and easy!  ($51 @ Midway)



In terms of neck bushings, you will eventually have a set of several and changing neck bushings in a sizing die is quick and easy for me...  I take the die out of the press (2 seconds), unscrew the top of the die (10 seconds, no tools necessary), flip the die upside down (1 second) - bushing falls out, flip the die right side up and insert the new bushings (5 seconds), Screw the top back on (10 seconds, no tools), shake die next to ear to make sure the bushing is "free floating" (5 seconds), put die back in press (2 seconds)...  2 minutes start to finish if you take your time...  Hornady LNL bushings make it fast and easy and negate the need to readjust the die when you put it back in the press.  At this time, my press is an RCBS Summit single stage press...  I installed the LNL conversion kit into the press to make it compatible with LNL bushings...



Last but not least, if you haven't already seen it, check out the Redding Bushing Selection PDF at Grafs.  It contains some very helpful information...

Best,

- Reo -

Neck turning is a rabbit hole time sink that probably isn't worth going down for most people, including most "precision" reloaders.

Trying to get from 0.5 MOA to 0.4 MOA groups for bench rest competition? Trying to get tiny ES numbers when shooting at targets 1500 yards away?  Sure, go for it. After you've optimized literally everything else and your own skill has plateaued.

I enjoy reloading as a hobby and science unto itself, but brass prep hasn't made me a better shooter.

I say that as someone who actually does neck turn most of my brass. I have a machine that does it for me, mostly unattended, so the time cost is nearly nil. Even so, I have to admit that I don't see much difference on target.

titanium or steel bushing, both need lube.  

You can outside neck turn and use standard FL die, if you want too.   I do this for 223 Rem.

Alternatively, the steel bushings are inexpensive enough to buy several diameters and use the one appropriate for the neck wall thickness you have on hand.  

Yesterday, I was checking price and availability.  It seems the steel is available and cost roughly $20.  

Buy several sizes.  You can avoid the drudgery of neck turning.  Also, you can then tailor the neck tension for best accuracy.

Having said that, I wouldn't neck turn unless your chamber demands that.  If it does, consider getting it rechambered (neck reamed).


P.S. -
One more thing, the Peterson brass I bought had necks so thick I NEEDED to neck turn the brass because I could not just swap out for a larger bushing.  The brass was excellent but thick in the necks.  I would have loved to just open a box and drop in a different bushing.

Those shell holders are awesome.  I never even knew they existed.  I will definitely look into it.