Firing properly loaded plated bullets at high velocities does not cause the plating to separate and/or lead the barrels. That is simple internet hype. What causes plated bullets to fail is simply handloader error, i.e. over crimping or worse, roll crimping the loads so that the case cuts through the plating. It's that simple.  Load them correctly and they work fine.  Screw it up and they don't.

The caution the manufactures put on the velocities is purely to limit liability, i.e. the lawyers want it.  I talked to the owner of Rainier bullets a number of years back and he confirmed that the limits are there because they don't control how their bullets are loaded and therefore the lawyers insist that they establish some limits to limit any legal exposure.  Not because the bullets can't take it but because there are idiots reloading them incorrectly. It's also true that like plain lead bullets, they aren't precision bullets made for high velocities.

Further, he stated that if loaded correctly (not cutting through the plating by over crimping or roll crimping) that they can be driven at high velocities without any issues.  They may not be as accurate as precision bullets as they obturate into the rifling more than fmj, but their plating won't peal off if loaded correctly and driven fast.

Like dryflash3, I've fired 10s of thousands of .357Mag, .40s&w, 10mm, 45acp, 45Super, .30 carbine, and even .308 plated bullets at high velocities, the .357Mag over 2,000fps, the 10mm over 1,550fps, the 45 Super over 1,300fps, and both the .30 Carbine and .308 over 2,000fps without a single plating failure.  Zero leading of the barrels.  Further, I've recovered dozens of fired bullets and found the plating intact on every one.  Some bullets are flattened to pancake shape and the plating still hasn't failed.  Why? Because I take care and don't over crimp, that's why.

If you lead your barrel or lose the plating on your bullets, blame the reloader, not the bullet, because you screwed up, not the bullet. That's the real reason that many blame plated bullets.  They screw up loading them but won't take the blame for doing it wrong so they blame the bullet. In fact, most shooters I've listened to claiming that high velocities caused their bullets to lose the plating come from the 'everyone gets a participation trophy' era and have never learned to take responsibility for anything they do.

Originally Posted By dryflash3:
https://i.imgur.com/RppyYhel.jpg

This is what you want your crimp on plated bullets to look like.

Break the plating....hello leading and poor accuracy.

While we are at it........

https://i.imgur.com/2t3eA3Yl.jpg

Get yourself a Lyman M die (about $20) for expanding the neck. Make your life easier.

Left, sized case, center after being expanded by M die, right, bullet inserts about 1/16 of an inch straight into case.

Bullet always starts straight into die without a chance of pinched fingers.

Here is the thread that convinced me to try a M die. Now all my die sets rifle and pistol have one added to the set.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/Armory/Educate-Me-on-Lyman-M-Dies/42-452183/

Originally Posted By lokifox:
I'll second the M die if you aren't using something like a Dillon powder funnel die.

For the seating stage, if you have enough stations, dies that have a stem that holds everything inline are extremely helpful with flat-base type bullets. Redding Competition is the gold standard. Way less attention needs to be paid as everything lines itself up prior to the actual seat.

The now discontinued Redding Dual-Ring Carbide dies are another neat trick that keeps the case from getting wasp-waist and causing unnecessary resistance during seating which can throw things off or cause bullet damage.     .... Not that it generally matters with handgun ammo but the OCD is strong on my bench.

X-Treme used to have a "heavy plate" bullet line that took them closer to something like a Speer TMJ if you felt the necessity too.

Originally Posted By acman145acp:
Would seriously like to hear your results with these bullets and what you are shooting them in.  

I just tried my 3rd manufacture lead / hi tek coated bullet in 44 mag in my henry rifle.  They all tumble.......

So far hornady 240 xtp is all it shoots great.

Originally Posted By Zhukov:

Thanks - it seems like it would be pretty difficult to break the plating with a collet-style crimp die. I'll crimp a couple and then check to make sure they look OK afterwards. Is it OK to use a kinetic bullet puller or should I use a cutoff disc in a Dremel to split the case?

Originally Posted By SteelonSteel:



+1 collet pullers are handy in certain applications but a Kinetic hammer type while a pain will always work.  A lot of times a collet will slip if there isn't enough of a parallel wall of the bullet shank to grip.   You can of course keep on cranking the collet and ruin the bullet or switch to the hammer type with a foam ear plug or two pushed in the bottom of the hammer opening to soften the pulled bullets impact when it comes loose.