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Posted: 6/15/2018 12:00:11 PM EDT
[#1]
I had two Glock 21s that would not reliably ignite Winchester large primers. They worked fine with Remington primers. One I had looked at by a Glock armorer and he installed a heavy striker spring. I still had the same issue. I sold both of them. Other .45 platforms fired the Winchester primers just fine. My newest 21 fires them just fine and is in my truck for the range today.
That isn't much help with your particular issue, but at least you can know that similar issues are out there. |
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Posted: 6/15/2018 12:50:25 PM EDT
[#2]
It sounds like they are using a harder primer to try to split the difference between wall thicknesses and failed.
I generally use SRP in my handgun loads, which works great! Except for Glocks. |
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Posted: 6/15/2018 1:13:57 PM EDT
[#3]
I picked up several k of those in small pistol. No issues for me in a CZ.
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Posted: 6/15/2018 2:24:31 PM EDT
[#4]
I've used about 15K of these now. I did have some random light strikes in glocks and S&W autos. Cause? My wife and me not paying attention when she helped me reload by priming cases... yep, she didn't fully seat some of the primers
Once that little fiasco was resolved, I've not had a single problem with S&B primers since. I'd buy another 20K today if I could find them for $19.99 per K again.... |
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Posted: 6/15/2018 2:34:01 PM EDT
[#5]
Motor,
My guess is you're reading the top of the box which says for pistols, revolvers and rifles which would seem to mean any of the 3 but the front of the box and the sleeves within designate the actual type they are. Rifle primers AFAIK are harder and many pistols won't ignite them properly. I think they just wanted to save on packaging so use the same box for all primers which is a bit misleading.  Attached File |
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Posted: 6/15/2018 7:11:34 PM EDT
[#6]
I get the occasional light strike in my 9mm Sub2000. Not enough to stop me from buying them if they're on sale.
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Posted: 6/15/2018 8:31:32 PM EDT
[#7]
As noted above,,, box is marked to indicate contents of box..
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Posted: 6/15/2018 9:44:07 PM EDT
[#8]
Thanks for the replies. The brick ends are as generic as the rest of the box. But there is a alphabetical code above the bar code. Maybe one of you guys can match it to one of your packages that have a label on the end flap.
I can guess what it means but I'm looking for confirmation. Here it is: SBPR-SR Motor |
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Posted: 6/15/2018 10:09:08 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks for the replies. The brick ends are as generic as the rest of the box. But there is a alphabetical code above the bar code. Maybe one of you guys can match it to one of your packages that have a label on the end flap. I can guess what it means but I'm looking for confirmation. Here it is: SBPR-SR Motor |
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Posted: 6/15/2018 10:55:46 PM EDT
[#10]
Picture of box ??
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Posted: 6/16/2018 1:09:44 AM EDT
[#11]
Motor,
My Small Rifle S&B box of 1k has SBPR-SR above the barcode. Hope this helps. I get light strikes with their SPP in my M&P40 FWIW. Even changed the recoil and striker spring to a new Wolff (gun was LE trade in) and it still happens occasionally. |
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Posted: 6/16/2018 2:22:32 AM EDT
[#12]
What Gen glock FP's, Hence the new style helps to prevent hydro locking.
And are you running maritime spring cups or standard cups, and either standard tension, or reduced tension springs? 
Bottom line it, with standard cup spring retainers, you have to leave the FP/FP channel dry, or your going to end up with light strikes. If you installed reduce tension striker springs, then swap out to maritime spring retainer cups, and still run the FP dry as well. Hell, when was the last time you took a Q tip to the FP channel with some solvent to get it clean to begin with? Hence bottom out the striker in the slide, and take a look at the protrusion of the FP out the bolt face. I could be just crap in the channel, or the striker tip has eroded to the point that it time for a new FP instead. Myself, just run new gen strikers, standard tension FP spring with Maritime cups in dry/clean FP channels, and have not had a problem igniting S&B small primers. |
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Posted: 6/16/2018 6:48:30 AM EDT
[#13]
Had problems with light strikes in Glock 21 with S&B SPP.
Turned out my Hornady LnL AP had worn a small depression under the primer seating stem. Taped a dime over depression, loaded a hundred rounds, and all went bang. |
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Posted: 6/16/2018 10:44:59 AM EDT
[#14]
When I was having issues with my M&Ps I did the old pencil test (pencil placed in the barrel/chamber empty/muzzle and squeeze the trigger).
Neither the Glock nor M&P pistols would launch the pencil out of the barrel. The XDMs would clear the muzzle and I could catch it with my other hand before it fell back to my lap/table top. My M&Ps had the stronger Glock striker spring installed in them (didn't help the light strike issues though). Some guns just don't hit the primer very hard. |
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Posted: 6/16/2018 5:25:39 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Had problems with light strikes in Glock 21 with S&B SPP. Turned out my Hornady LnL AP had worn a small depression under the primer seating stem. Taped a dime over depression, loaded a hundred rounds, and all went bang. IME, striker fired pistols don't hit primers as hard, unless you've really jacked up the spring system and then you can have a hard trigger pull and other problems. But the variables associated with primer depth can be significant. Other weapon systems, like DA/SA and SA mil pattern handguns, usually have a hard enough strike to overcome these and other issues like using hard primered 9mm SMG ammo in a handgun. I routinely shot 9mm military SMG ammo in Smith 5906s, with really hard primers without issue. With the same ammo, I would reset the striker in my Glock three to four times before it popped the primer, if it ever did. Small rifle primers (CCI/Winc/Tula/Wolf) are what I have used in 9mm/40/38 because of their interchange with small pistol primers (except for Glocks) It doesn't work like that with Large Rifle  because of the differences in primer height.HTH |
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Posted: 6/16/2018 8:35:58 PM EDT
[#16]
S&B primers are hard. I've used Win and CCI SR primers in small pistol cases for years. I had one Glock that would have issues with them, so I had to be sure to use SP primers for that gun.
Fast forward to now. The S&B primers seem to be harder than either Win or CCI. I had loaded up a bunch of 9mm with their SR primers, primarily for SMG use. I find they all go bang just fine in my full-auto Uzi (full mass of the bolt hitting the primer). But I get lots of failures when I shoot them in the semi-auto Uzi. Even though that one has around double the spring tension, it's only hitting the primer with the mass of the striker assembly, and not the full mass of the bolt. It would be nice to simplify, but it appears I need to go back to stocking both SR and SP primers again. |
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Posted: 6/16/2018 8:43:47 PM EDT
[#17]
I just checked a box that says SMALL PISTOL on the side flap. The barcode model is SBPR-SP
These were purchased from Cabela's with the generic rifle, pistol, and revolver markings on the front of the box |
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Posted: 6/16/2018 9:35:37 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
S&B primers are hard. I've used Win and CCI SR primers in small pistol cases for years. I had one Glock that would have issues with them, so I had to be sure to use SP primers for that gun. Fast forward to now. The S&B primers seem to be harder than either Win or CCI. I had loaded up a bunch of 9mm with their SR primers, primarily for SMG use. I find they all go bang just fine in my full-auto Uzi (full mass of the bolt hitting the primer). But I get lots of failures when I shoot them in the semi-auto Uzi. Even though that one has around double the spring tension, it's only hitting the primer with the mass of the striker assembly, and not the full mass of the bolt. It would be nice to simplify, but it appears I need to go back to stocking both SR and SP primers again. On a open bolt gun MG barrel, the chamber depth is shortened to begin with, this way the round is ignited as the bolt is still moving forward before the bolt has a chance to rebound. On a closed bolt gun semi auto barrel, your talking standard chamber depth instead, and on some guns, the chamber deep enough that if the FP does not have a long enough protrusion with the primer set beyond flush to the rim, the primer is not going to be ignited isntead. So on that note, mic your semi auto chamber depth, and bank that you will find the problem there with the chamber depth too long isntead. |
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Posted: 6/16/2018 9:47:03 PM EDT
[#19]
You guys are awesome as usual. I have been using some Remington 6 1/2 in pistol as well but I don't think they were ever used in the pistol I'm having issues with.
These S&B are definitely small rifle though and that's very likely the problem. Thanks Motor |
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Posted: 6/17/2018 9:12:47 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Open bolt and close bolt system are two different worlds. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Open bolt and close bolt system are two different worlds. Quoted:So on that note, mic your semi auto chamber depth, and bank that you will find the problem there with the chamber depth too long isntead. |
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Posted: 6/18/2018 2:32:21 PM EDT
[#21]
I had a higher percentage of light strokes with them in my Shadow race gun than any other type. I attributed this to lighter springs.
Zero issues in my TSO or PCC’s. |
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Posted: 6/18/2018 3:20:29 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I get a very healthy primer indent from this gun with any round that fires. It only struggles with overly hard primers, for the reason I noted. If I remember correctly, the IMI semi bolt face channels where slightly deeper that group bolt face channels, and you had to make sure that the barrel was chamber depth for the correct bolt. Hence the semi Uzi striker still have a lot of mass, and if the protrusion on the striker is in the .032" range out of the front of the bolt face forward, then should be enough to set off a standard rifle small primer without problems (what the S&B primers are), so long as chamber was not reamed too deep, and the rim of the round is ending up way, way away from the bolt face isntead.. |
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