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Posted: 5/23/2018 10:45:11 PM EDT
Are you guys using surefires or energizers...and where are you getting the best price.  I usually stick with surefire...but I have a box a few years old and they seam like they are not 100%...need to get a voltage meter to be sure.
Link Posted: 5/24/2018 12:11:47 AM EDT
[#1]
I'm using Surefire CR123s in my a Breach and all of my Surefire lights. Haven't noticed any voltage issues. I actually have been checking voltages, but I can't remember any numbers right now. The Surefire batteries I've been using are probably at least a year or two old.

As for where to get them at a good price, I have the same question. I'd like to make a bulk purchase. Best price I've seen per battery was on a 12 or 24 count on Amazon. The larger quantities were actually more expensive.
Link Posted: 5/24/2018 7:51:19 AM EDT
[#2]
The best price I can find is around 20 per 12...looking around a lot last night...I am thinking it's not a horrible price.
Link Posted: 5/24/2018 8:06:35 AM EDT
[#3]
Battery junction.com
Link Posted: 5/24/2018 8:21:53 AM EDT
[#4]
Wal-Mart has a decent price on a 12 pack of energizes.

There are some off brands online that I have thought about trying but just haven't pulled the trigger yet.
Link Posted: 5/24/2018 9:45:26 AM EDT
[#5]
panasonic
Link Posted: 5/24/2018 10:16:43 AM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Battery junction.com
View Quote
I usually get 50 packs of the CR123 Titanium Innovations from Battery Junction.  Listed at 1400mah.  I'm happy with them at $48 for 50 pack.  A while back they were sold out and I picked up some Duracell (1470mah), Panasonic (1550 mah) and Enegizers (1500 mah) off Amazon for around $1.65/ per.  My battery meter, my scopes and I can not tell a difference between them.

If you're storing them for a while, I'd suggest picking up a battery meter of some kind.  Here's the one I bought off Amazon for $13.  It has come in handy on multiple occasions.
Link Posted: 5/24/2018 10:42:23 AM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I usually get 50 packs of the CR123 Titanium Innovations from Battery Junction.  Listed at 1400mah.  I'm happy with them at $48 for 50 pack.  A while back they were sold out and I picked up some Duracell (1470mah), Panasonic (1550 mah) and Enegizers (1500 mah) off Amazon for around $1.65/ per.  My battery meter, my scopes and I can not tell a difference between them.

If you're storing them for a while, I'd suggest picking up a battery meter of some kind.  Here's the one I bought off Amazon for $13.  It has come in handy on multiple occasions.
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Really? So you couldn't perceive any additional run time on the 1550 Panasonic? That's the one I usually buy in bulk to get the cost down but it's not as cheap as $48 for 50.

Interesting. Thanks.
Link Posted: 5/24/2018 10:48:11 AM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Really? So you couldn't perceive any additional run time on the 1550 Panasonic? That's the one I usually buy in bulk to get the cost down but it's not as cheap as $48 for 50.

Interesting. Thanks.
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Not really, no.  My thermals run through them.  On an 80 degree night, I might get 2 or 2:30 out of a battery swap (dual 123s in a Zeus 640 30hz) before screen starts acting jankety.  There's a 10% difference between the 1400 and 1550 capacities which theoretically should equate to about 12 minutes more of run time.  At that point, I'm swapping the battery pack out anyway.  Over on some of the flashlight forums, they have done EXTENSIVE testing on 123 batteries- spreadsheets for DAYS.  My take away from it - lithium 123s bought from a quality source (AKA not Chinese BS sellers) are pretty much even in terms of perfomance, +/- 10% run time in high-drain lights.
Link Posted: 5/24/2018 8:57:50 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I usually get 50 packs of the CR123 Titanium Innovations from Battery Junction.  Listed at 1400mah.  I'm happy with them at $48 for 50 pack.  A while back they were sold out and I picked up some Duracell (1470mah), Panasonic (1550 mah) and Enegizers (1500 mah) off Amazon for around $1.65/ per.  My battery meter, my scopes and I can not tell a difference between them.

If you're storing them for a while, I'd suggest picking up a battery meter of some kind.  Here's the one I bought off Amazon for $13.  It has come in handy on multiple occasions.
View Quote
This! Always good to get together with buddies and order in bulk since their shelf life is 10 years.

Fortunately my T-70s can either use 3 CR-123s or 3 Enegerizer AA lithiums.

The Energizer lithium’s are 3,000mah instead of the CR-123’s 1,500mah.

Wish more Thermals used thee AAs instead of the CR-123s.
Link Posted: 5/24/2018 9:06:49 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

The Energizer lithium’s are 3,000mah instead of the CR-123’s 1,500mah.

Wish more Thermals used thee AAs instead of the CR-123s.
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Twice the amps but half the volts.
Link Posted: 5/24/2018 9:38:44 PM EDT
[#11]
I am getting twice the run time with lithium AAs as I do with lithium CR123s, higher voltage works great for LED flashlights though....

The newly designed T-70/T-75s have a slick new battery compartment that does away with the CR123 option entirely.
Link Posted: 6/25/2018 10:49:28 AM EDT
[#12]
Does anyone else have any experience with the Titanium Innovations 123As? Im currently grabbing the Streamlight 12 pack for ~$20 from base after they stopped carrying Surefires for some reason. I have noticed a bit more 'noise' with both the Streamlights and Energizers in multiple devices in comparison to the SFs. If Id be getting that noise anyway, just thinking I might as well get the cheapest ones.
Link Posted: 6/25/2018 4:11:52 PM EDT
[#13]
I use rechargeable 123's in my shit, why you all not use that??
Link Posted: 6/25/2018 6:44:10 PM EDT
[#14]
Black Friday deals usually have decent prices on the surefire ones. About $.50 each if I remember correctly. That obviously doesn’t help you out if you need them right now though
Link Posted: 6/25/2018 6:50:28 PM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Black Friday deals usually have decent prices on the surefire ones. About $.50 each if I remember correctly. That obviously doesn’t help you out if you need them right now though
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Please post that one up if you ever see that.

I just bought a pack of 48 Surefire 123s for $1.36/piece.
Link Posted: 6/25/2018 7:15:47 PM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Please post that one up if you ever see that.

I just bought a pack of 48 Surefire 123s for $1.36/piece.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Black Friday deals usually have decent prices on the surefire ones. About $.50 each if I remember correctly. That obviously doesn’t help you out if you need them right now though
Please post that one up if you ever see that.

I just bought a pack of 48 Surefire 123s for $1.36/piece.
Maybe it was 50% off (which still came out real close to $.50) and free shipping through PSA? I’ll try and find my old invoice. It’s been two years but I bought a whole bunch during it
Link Posted: 6/26/2018 9:36:19 AM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I use rechargeable 123's in my shit, why you all not use that??
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You can't use rechargeable 123s in thermal scopes.  I'm not smart enough to explain why—I just know it doesn't work.

OP. I've seen many complaints about the Surefire CR123s.   I avoid them.  I like the Streamlights.
Link Posted: 6/26/2018 5:11:58 PM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

You can't use rechargeable 123s in thermal scopes.  I'm not smart enough to explain whyI just know it doesn't work.

OP. I've seen many complaints about the Surefire CR123s.   I avoid them.  I like the Streamlights.
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MaH too low so they don't last long enough? Not enough amps?
Link Posted: 6/26/2018 7:46:51 PM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

MaH too low so they don't last long enough? Not enough amps?
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The voltage can be way too high.  CR123a are nominally 3v, rechargeable ones can be 4.2 on a full charge and that can fry equipment the first time you power it on.  You can get more advanced rechargeable cells with built in boost/buck controllers and that will limit the voltage output to more acceptable levels, however, you will have less than half the mAh and thus runtime, and rechargeables will have functionally lower capacity in colder temperatures compared to primary cells.

The best solution would be to pick thermal equipment that have a battery cap positioned such that you could have an extra long tube machined for it.  Then you could then wire it with two CR123a in parallel.

Here is a link with a more full discussion on the subject of rechageables.  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/23424

Edit:  I also vote for the Titanium cells from batteryjunction.com.  My last order was in 2012 and I've been using cells from that batch with no issues and consistent performance.
Link Posted: 6/26/2018 7:51:38 PM EDT
[#20]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

You can't use rechargeable 123s in thermal scopes.  I'm not smart enough to explain why—I just know it doesn't work.

OP. I've seen many complaints about the Surefire CR123s.   I avoid them.  I like the Streamlights.
View Quote
What are the complaints you've been seeing about Surefire CR123s? They're pretty much all I use for anything of mine that takes a 123, going on 14 years now; I've never had an issue.
Link Posted: 6/26/2018 10:14:40 PM EDT
[#21]
Why not go battery packs and rechargeable 18650s?  123s burn too fast.
Link Posted: 6/27/2018 1:07:14 PM EDT
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Why not go battery packs and rechargeable 18650s?  123s burn too fast.
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Because of the voltage issue I posted on.  I doesn't matter what the form factor is of the batteries, the chemistry used in all types of rechargeables will make the voltage too high.  You can use circuitry to correct this, but it takes up space and generally produces waste heat, which further reduces runtimes for a similar battery size.  Ncorry posted a 2-2.5 hour runtime on primary cells and with boost/buck controlled rechargeables his runtime would be likely be under an hour.  And that's assuming a battery could be found that fits into that unit since the circuitry can take up extra space.  Larger 18650 batteries are a popular solution with flashlights that have LEDs that have a wide range of input voltages, but 5 years ago people were frying off the shelf lights all the time until more specialty lights/rechargables became the norm.

Another possibility could be having an adapter machined that would just be a USB cable so you could use a cheap cell phone external battery charger.  That would have at least twice the capacity of a primary cell and you could swap them quickly in the field.  You could run the cable over the top of the receiver and have the battery rubber banded to the stock.  The adapter would have sufficient volume to house the voltage reduction circuitry.  More runtime and lower cost of operation.
Link Posted: 6/27/2018 2:05:22 PM EDT
[#23]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Because of the voltage issue I posted on.  I doesn't matter what the form factor is of the batteries, the chemistry used in all types of rechargeables will make the voltage too high.  You can use circuitry to correct this, but it takes up space and generally produces waste heat, which further reduces runtimes for a similar battery size.  Ncorry posted a 2-2.5 hour runtime on primary cells and with boost/buck controlled rechargeables his runtime would be likely be under an hour.  And that's assuming a battery could be found that fits into that unit since the circuitry can take up extra space.  Larger 18650 batteries are a popular solution with flashlights that have LEDs that have a wide range of input voltages, but 5 years ago people were frying off the shelf lights all the time until more specialty lights/rechargables became the norm.

Another possibility could be having an adapter machined that would just be a USB cable so you could use a cheap cell phone external battery charger.  That would have at least twice the capacity of a primary cell and you could swap them quickly in the field.  You could run the cable over the top of the receiver and have the battery rubber banded to the stock.  The adapter would have sufficient volume to house the voltage reduction circuitry.  More runtime and lower cost of operation.
View Quote
Check this out: https://www.nightvisionoutfitters.com/collections/accessories/products/ir-x-rechargeable-battery-kit
Link Posted: 6/27/2018 4:14:24 PM EDT
[#24]
That's basically what I'm talking about, but wow that's expensive.  A machinist should be able to make that extended cap for under $50, and the drone/RC batteries I've been buying for years cost under $20 each.  An adapter for the plug and the small undervoltage alarm circuit should cost under $25.  Add a diode or heck, a linear regulator and you're good to go.

I guess its like marine and Harley motorcycle equipment where what should be a $80 mass produced kit is $300.  I know there needs to be some overhead for small production volume and long shelf times, but wow.

Edit: I just looked at the pictures and they have the battery size on the side of the box.  Its a 16650 flashlight battery + charger and a metal cap.  Holy cow, not even as fancy as the RC stuff.

This is a link to an ebay listing of similar batteries and if you scroll down there is a bundle for a charger.  Under $40 shipped.  Then go find a machinist for the extended cap.  Total cost of that kit should be $60 tops if thats all it is.

I suspect some thermals might be more forgiving of high input voltage than others.  If this kit is using off the shelf 16650 batteries the thermal unit its designed for might not need the voltage reduced.

Edit 2: Here is a link to the exact same batteries they include in the kit.  $7 each The same charger $13.  $27 of electronics at retail pricing which would make that extended tube in the kit apparently cost $273.  Yea, you could do better.
Link Posted: 6/27/2018 9:05:35 PM EDT
[#25]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Because of the voltage issue I posted on.  I doesn't matter what the form factor is of the batteries, the chemistry used in all types of rechargeables will make the voltage too high.  You can use circuitry to correct this, but it takes up space and generally produces waste heat, which further reduces runtimes for a similar battery size.  Ncorry posted a 2-2.5 hour runtime on primary cells and with boost/buck controlled rechargeables his runtime would be likely be under an hour.  And that's assuming a battery could be found that fits into that unit since the circuitry can take up extra space.  Larger 18650 batteries are a popular solution with flashlights that have LEDs that have a wide range of input voltages, but 5 years ago people were frying off the shelf lights all the time until more specialty lights/rechargables became the norm.

Another possibility could be having an adapter machined that would just be a USB cable so you could use a cheap cell phone external battery charger.  That would have at least twice the capacity of a primary cell and you could swap them quickly in the field.  You could run the cable over the top of the receiver and have the battery rubber banded to the stock.  The adapter would have sufficient volume to house the voltage reduction circuitry.  More runtime and lower cost of operation.
View Quote
I’m speaking of the Armasight external packs.  I’ve used rechargeable 18650s for god knows how many hundreds of hours and never had an issue. Is there a regulator in the external pack I guess?
Link Posted: 6/27/2018 11:36:46 PM EDT
[#26]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I’m speaking of the Armasight external packs.  I’ve used rechargeable 18650s for god knows how many hundreds of hours and never had an issue. Is there a regulator in the external pack I guess?
View Quote
More likely the thermal unit you're using it in works just fine with the extra voltage.  Pretty much all electronics have a safe input voltage/amperage range and going beyond that can put extra wear on components, prevent the device from working, or can even fry stuff on the first startup depending on the parts.  Clearly your unit works fine, but I wonder what the manufacturer would say if you called and asked about alternate power sources.  I suspect they would say "stick to CR123", but I dunno.  There are plenty of crappy china packs out there so the manufacturer might just cover their ass and not give a straight answer for the safe input voltage range.  Its one thing to do destructive testing with $15-$50 flashlights, another thing entirely with multi thousand dollar thermals.  Plus. I imagine they do minor improvements and parts changes occasionally throughout a products lifetime, so you might have some versions that have slightly different input voltage ranges.

In summery, some thermals might take rechargeable batteries just fine, others might not, good luck getting a straight answer from a manufacturer and also keeping your warranty intact.
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 12:39:43 AM EDT
[#27]
There's no fucking way anyone is building a 3.7v input that frys at 4.2v. that's just bad design. I need to see some evidence that this is true. Who has this?
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 1:48:57 AM EDT
[#28]
3.0v input.  Primary cells start at 3.0v and drop to around 2.8v for much of their output, lower if its a high amp drain.  Plenty of flashlights have been fried by people trying to use rechargeables with a solid 30% higher voltage at peak charge.
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 9:53:58 AM EDT
[#29]
Titanium Innovations from Battery Junction.  They're priced fair and are consistent.  I also like the Tenergy brand off amazon.  I haven't had good luck with surefire.
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 10:10:45 AM EDT
[#30]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Titanium Innovations from Battery Junction.  They're priced fair and are consistent.  I also like the Tenergy brand off amazon.  I haven't had good luck with surefire.
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What problems have you had with Surefire other than the higher price?

I've been using Surefire batteries for about 14 years now and haven't had any issues.
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 10:21:21 AM EDT
[#31]
Inconsistent run times.  Also, Trijicon/IRD does not recommend them for their thermals.  Surefires are actually made by panasonic, unless something has changed.  My buddies reap had to have the core replaced.  IRD wouldn't all the way come out and say it, but they basically blamed it on surefire batteries.
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 10:36:20 AM EDT
[#32]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Inconsistent run times.  Also, Trijicon/IRD does not recommend them for their thermals.  Surefires are actually made by panasonic, unless something has changed.  My buddies reap had to have the core replaced.  IRD wouldn't all the way come out and say it, but they basically blamed it on surefire batteries.
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I didn't know that IRD did not recommend sure fire? I too was under the belief that surefire was a rebranded Panasonic battery. And I use Panasonic batteries in my IRD.

Thanks.
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 10:49:39 AM EDT
[#33]
I'll see if I can find the email.
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 12:01:07 PM EDT
[#34]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
That's basically what I'm talking about, but wow that's expensive.  A machinist should be able to make that extended cap for under $50, and the drone/RC batteries I've been buying for years cost under $20 each.  An adapter for the plug and the small undervoltage alarm circuit should cost under $25.  Add a diode or heck, a linear regulator and you're good to go.

I guess its like marine and Harley motorcycle equipment where what should be a $80 mass produced kit is $300.  I know there needs to be some overhead for small production volume and long shelf times, but wow.

Edit: I just looked at the pictures and they have the battery size on the side of the box.  Its a 16650 flashlight battery + charger and a metal cap.  Holy cow, not even as fancy as the RC stuff.

This is a link to an ebay listing of similar batteries and if you scroll down there is a bundle for a charger.  Under $40 shipped.  Then go find a machinist for the extended cap.  Total cost of that kit should be $60 tops if thats all it is.

I suspect some thermals might be more forgiving of high input voltage than others.  If this kit is using off the shelf 16650 batteries the thermal unit its designed for might not need the voltage reduced.

Edit 2: Here is a link to the exact same batteries they include in the kit.  $7 each The same charger $13.  $27 of electronics at retail pricing which would make that extended tube in the kit apparently cost $273.  Yea, you could do better.
View Quote
Another alternative:  http://www.ultimatenightvision.com/USB-Power-Adapter-p/unvirdadpt-kit.htm
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 12:01:08 PM EDT
[#35]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I'll see if I can find the email.
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I posted a link to your battery extension above. Any comments on the responses?
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 2:04:13 PM EDT
[#36]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

More likely the thermal unit you're using it in works just fine with the extra voltage.  Pretty much all electronics have a safe input voltage/amperage range and going beyond that can put extra wear on components, prevent the device from working, or can even fry stuff on the first startup depending on the parts.  Clearly your unit works fine, but I wonder what the manufacturer would say if you called and asked about alternate power sources.  I suspect they would say "stick to CR123", but I dunno.  There are plenty of crappy china packs out there so the manufacturer might just cover their ass and not give a straight answer for the safe input voltage range.  Its one thing to do destructive testing with $15-$50 flashlights, another thing entirely with multi thousand dollar thermals.  Plus. I imagine they do minor improvements and parts changes occasionally throughout a products lifetime, so you might have some versions that have slightly different input voltage ranges.

In summery, some thermals might take rechargeable batteries just fine, others might not, good luck getting a straight answer from a manufacturer and also keeping your warranty intact.
View Quote
I’m not saying the technical details add up or make sense, but the Armasight extended battery housing comes with 2 rechargeable 18650s.   Do you think they’re just playing roulette wit this product?  I get over 5 hours on the batts.
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 3:19:31 PM EDT
[#37]
Quoted:
I didn't know that IRD did not recommend sure fire? I too was under the belief that surefire was a rebranded Panasonic battery. And I use Panasonic batteries in my IRD.

Thanks.
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They are made in a factory owned by Panasonic.  Battery manufacturing involves heavy metals and all sorts of complexities and as such there are only two factories in the whole USA that make lithium batteries.  The other factory is owned by Duracell.  Different companies will produce their own build requirements and have them made to that spec in one of these two factories.  Cheaper brands use cheaper components, QC less, and accept a wider range of output which is why expensive equipment requires high quality batteries.  Surefire batteries typically test very well for consistent voltage and total capacity, I'm not sure what the issue would be with certain thermals unless there is a bad batch of batteries floating around.  Titanium Innovation batteries also test very well.

I tried to answer three posts at once, but for some reason I'm limited to 2000 characters per post for being 'new', so incoming triple post
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 3:20:03 PM EDT
[#38]
Quoted:

Another alternative:  http://www.ultimatenightvision.com/USB-Power-Adapter-p/unvirdadpt-kit.htm
View Quote
That looks like a solid design, but its again very expensive.  I own the Anker battery pack they include and its been a great unit for years.  $30 shipped from amazon.  The thermal there looks like it is designed to run off 2 CR123 which would be 6v nominal, likely 5.5v actual.  That anker pack provides a consistent 5v, so you wouldn't even have to add extra circuits to get the output to match.  It just needs a USB adapter and spacer.  This is how you make a spacer that will also carry power, and This is the wiring diagram for a USB A cable.  You only need pins 1 and 4, no data needed.  So your total costs would be the battery pack for $30, a USB cable you have lying around, 2 screws and a dowel for under $2, and a spare battery cap that you order from the manufacturer.  Drill the cap, thread the wire through, attach to the spacer, silicon seal the hole.  Done.
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 3:20:35 PM EDT
[#39]
Quoted:

I’m not saying the technical details add up or make sense, but the Armasight extended battery housing comes with 2 rechargeable 18650s.   Do you think they’re just playing roulette wit this product?  I get over 5 hours on the batts.
View Quote
If it works and doesn't perform weird or get hotter than usual, its just fine.  It just means that Armasight designed that thermal with a wider input voltage range so they could also sell the rechargable kits.  Thats smart of them.

It really just comes down to part selection when the product is designed.  When I build a drone for instance, I have to choose a flight camera and there are dozens of models to choose from with wildly different input voltages and characteristics.  Sometimes I want it to fit in a certain space and have to make a separate circuit to step down or up the voltage from the batteries, sometimes I want it to have certain performance and need to isolate the input from the motors to reduce noise because the amps are so massive, sometimes I just want it tiny and lightweight and will accept a higher heat output and just run it till it craps out.  Its all in the design, and if it works, it works.
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 4:09:42 PM EDT
[#40]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I posted a link to your battery extension above. Any comments on the responses?
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On which part?
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