User Panel
Posted: 5/22/2020 12:02:00 PM EDT
Pistol reloader, took the time during Rona to learn rifle- specifically, .223. First time with rifle cases but not new to reloading.
Got the Lee dies for my Lee turret press. Used Hornady One Shot. Stuck case after stuck case. I tried less lube. Stuck case. I tried lube all over. Stuck cases, but less so. I drenched the inside and outside of the case dripping wet... it actually worked a bit. Then more stuck cases. I also tried the Lee lube that comes in the tube. Same problem. I read that you shouldn’t lube the case neck, so I tried that. Stuck case. I’ve approached it from every experimental angle and neither lube seems to ensure the resizing doesn’t go wrong. I’ve tried brute force, I’ve tried resizing a bit at a time. None of it works. I’ve tried Wolf Brass, PSD, FM, FC, and a few LC cases. Drowning. In. Stuck. Cases. ...the hell am I doing wrong here? School me, Arfcom. |
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[#1]
Throw one stuck in the trash.
Buy a stuck case kit and remove case, https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011809648?pid=504741 This is the lube I use, https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/Case-Lube-for-cheap-bastards/42-305174/ |
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[#2]
With one shot you have to let it dry . Then not remove the dry film when placing a case in the shell holder.
I would clean the die with alcohol and if the die has a vent hole make sure it is clear. Start over , lube a case and a small dab on a q tip to light lube the inside neck. Assure the decap pin is not to low . |
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[#3]
Quoted:
Hornady One Shot. Stuck case after stuck case. View Quote Use Dillon lube or mix your own, but I am sure someone already covered that. I have never had a stuck case. |
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[#4]
Quoted: I wish they would just print this on their label. It would save a lot of effort. Use Dillon lube or mix your own, but I am sure someone already covered that. I have never had a stuck case. View Quote This. Exactly This. It deserves to be stickied at the top as an announcement int he reloading forum. Why anyone uses ANYTHING besides Dillon Case Lube (or it's homebrew equivalent) is beyond me. It defies logic. |
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[#5]
Quoted: Throw one stuck in the trash. Buy a stuck case kit and remove case, https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011809648?pid=504741 This is the lube I use, https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/Case-Lube-for-cheap-bastards/42-305174/ View Quote When you use the lanolin mix, how do you apply it? (Especially around the case neck) |
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[#6]
Quoted: When you use the lanolin mix, how do you apply it? (Especially around the case neck) View Quote Get a 2 Gallon Ziploc bag. Put brass in it such that if you laid it flat, it would more or less be 1 layer thick. Spray 2 sprays. Shake baggie around (I grab two corners, flip it up and let it land on opposite side, and I repeat a few times). Open baggie and spray twice more. Repeat. Done. I'm a bit more methodical than most probably, but I've never had a single stuck case using this method, and I've probably done 8-10k pieces this way now. |
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[#7]
Quoted: When you use the lanolin mix, how do you apply it? (Especially around the case neck) View Quote I place my cases in a small cardboard box and spray twice, shake box and 2 more sprays. Some of the cases will be neck up so the inside of the necks get enough lube so that you don't need to lube the inside of the necks, the spray already did that. No it won't effect the powder. |
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[#8]
Quoted: Get a 2 Gallon Ziploc bag. Put brass in it such that if you laid it flat, it would more or less be 1 layer thick. Spray 2 sprays. Shake baggie around (I grab two corners, flip it up and let it land on opposite side, and I repeat a few times). Open baggie and spray twice more. Repeat. Done. I'm a bit more methodical than most probably, but I've never had a single stuck case using this method, and I've probably done 8-10k pieces this way now. View Quote I use a method sort of like that. I stack my cases neck up first though and give a small spritz then run a bush down the neck. Then I put the cases in a baggy and give it a few spritzes. Then I shake the whole works working the cases around. |
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[#9]
Quoted: With one shot you have to let it dry . Then not remove the dry film when placing a case in the shell holder. I would clean the die with alcohol and if the die has a vent hole make sure it is clear. Start over , lube a case and a small dab on a q tip to light lube the inside neck. Assure the decap pin is not to low . View Quote I’m quoting this so it doesn’t get lost in the comments and go unnoticed. Especially the die cleaning part. OP, if you pulled the new die out of the box and just went to town with it there’s probably still a greasy film in it. Clean it good. |
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[#10]
Someday, maybe, if we are all on our best behavior, Hornady will withdraw that product from the market.
Almost every sizing problem brought to this Forum involves the use of One Shot. Get Dillon Spray Lube (or make your own) or get Imperial Sizing Die lube. |
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[#11]
I've personally found that individually lubing the necks unnecessary. The mixed orientation and shaking the baggie around and spraying again is enough to get them sufficiently lubed I suppose. As a disclaimer I only reload .223, 300 BLK, and 458S in rifle cartridges so not a huge array of experience but for those three I've never had a single stuck case doing it the way I do. It's quick and easy.
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[#12]
I use Hornady One Shot all the time. I love the stuff. But most people don't use it correctly.
I've run thousands of cases with it, and never had one stuck case. Not one. Question to start.. Did you disassemble your new dies? Did you clean them before using them? If not, you need to do this. To use the One Shot... I lay my cases out on a paper towel. I spray them in one direction, turn the whole paper towel, and spray them in the other. I wait two or three minutes for them to dry. I then roll the cases over 180 degrees and repeat. I wait two or three minutes. (You have to wait for the transfer medium to dry - which leaves the lube.) If you don't wait for them to dry, you'll get a hydraulic lock - which causes stuck cases. Try my method and see how you like it. |
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[#13]
Quoted: I use Hornady One Shot all the time. I love the stuff. But most people don't use it correctly. I've run thousands of cases with it, and never had one stuck case. Not one. Question to start.. Did you disassemble your new dies? Did you clean them before using them? If not, you need to do this. To use the One Shot... I lay my cases out on a paper towel. I spray them in one direction, turn the whole paper towel, and spray them in the other. I wait two or three minutes for them to dry. I then roll the cases over 180 degrees and repeat. I wait two or three minutes. (You have to wait for the transfer medium to dry - which leaves the lube.) If you don't wait for them to dry, you'll get a hydraulic lock - which causes stuck cases. Try my method and see how you like it. View Quote We get that there is a "proper" way to use it, it's just not user friendly to the beginner, and quite frankly, it's not practical or cost effective. I can lube 200 cases in literally 10 seconds. Your method sounds pretty time consuming. The Dillon stuff (if you pay for it) is probably 10% the cost of One Shot on a per round basis. I used to use One Shot, and you also need to make sure you shake the crap out of it before you spray as the lube and the propellant can separate, which can also cause issues. I went through 2 or 3 cans and did research, and with the help of Arfcom, I saw the light. Never going back. |
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[#14]
Quoted: We get that there is a "proper" way to use it, it's just not user friendly to the beginner, and quite frankly, it's not practical or cost effective. I can lube 200 cases in literally 10 seconds. Your method sounds pretty time consuming. The Dillon stuff (if you pay for it) is probably 10% the cost of One Shot on a per round basis. I used to use One Shot, and you also need to make sure you shake the crap out of it before you spray as the lube and the propellant can separate, which can also cause issues. I went through 2 or 3 cans and did research, and with the help of Arfcom, I saw the light. Never going back. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I use Hornady One Shot all the time. I love the stuff. But most people don't use it correctly. I've run thousands of cases with it, and never had one stuck case. Not one. Question to start.. Did you disassemble your new dies? Did you clean them before using them? If not, you need to do this. To use the One Shot... I lay my cases out on a paper towel. I spray them in one direction, turn the whole paper towel, and spray them in the other. I wait two or three minutes for them to dry. I then roll the cases over 180 degrees and repeat. I wait two or three minutes. (You have to wait for the transfer medium to dry - which leaves the lube.) If you don't wait for them to dry, you'll get a hydraulic lock - which causes stuck cases. Try my method and see how you like it. We get that there is a "proper" way to use it, it's just not user friendly to the beginner, and quite frankly, it's not practical or cost effective. I can lube 200 cases in literally 10 seconds. Your method sounds pretty time consuming. The Dillon stuff (if you pay for it) is probably 10% the cost of One Shot on a per round basis. I used to use One Shot, and you also need to make sure you shake the crap out of it before you spray as the lube and the propellant can separate, which can also cause issues. I went through 2 or 3 cans and did research, and with the help of Arfcom, I saw the light. Never going back. I saw a guy use the zip lock bag method on YouTube and I tried it... While they didn't stick, they were tough to size due to the inconsistent spread of the lube. Look... you can't use a product - not follow the usage directions - and then bitch when it doesn't work. The only part of my method that takes time, is waiting for the medium to dry. You want the product to work? Use it the way it was designed. |
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[#15]
Quoted: With one shot you have to let it dry . Then not remove the dry film when placing a case in the shell holder. I would clean the die with alcohol and if the die has a vent hole make sure it is clear. Start over , lube a case and a small dab on a q tip to light lube the inside neck. Assure the decap pin is not to low . View Quote This. I've been using One-Shot ever since I started and if it's used correctly, it works well. I've even used it on .338 LM and .458 Socom without issues. Problem is, most people don't read the directions and stick cases cause the solvent hasn't evaporated. |
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[#16]
Quoted: This. Exactly This. It deserves to be stickied at the top as an announcement int he reloading forum. Why anyone uses ANYTHING besides Dillon Case Lube (or it's homebrew equivalent) is beyond me. It defies logic. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: This. Exactly This. It deserves to be stickied at the top as an announcement int he reloading forum. Why anyone uses ANYTHING besides Dillon Case Lube (or it's homebrew equivalent) is beyond me. It defies logic. I like it for pistol brass. In other words, when brass doesn't need lube, Hornady One Shot works fine. Even when used "correctly" on rifle brass and cases don't get stuck, it produces inconsistent results compared to other options. Attached File Attached File Quoted: Someday, maybe, if we are all on our best behavior, Hornady will withdraw that product from the market. Almost every sizing problem brought to this Forum involves the use of One Shot. Get Dillon Spray Lube (or make your own) or get Imperial Sizing Die lube. Amen. |
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[#17]
Quoted: When you use the lanolin mix, how do you apply it? (Especially around the case neck) View Quote Lanolin is essentially a wax suspended in alcohol. When the alcohol evaporates, a very thin layer remains on the case. They need to sit around 5 minutes before running them through the dies. |
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[#18]
I use imperial sizing wax and lube every 5th or 10th case depending on what I’m loading. Haven’t had any stuck case issues since I’ve started using it. There’s the dip can of just wax and then there’s the smaller plastic thing filled with some kind of beads that uses a dry lube that is excellent for case mouths and necks. From what I’ve seen here, most people absolutely despise hornady one shot. I use it only as lube for the moving parts on my press so It doesn’t collect a bunch of debris/powder.
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[#19]
I use homemade lanolin case lube snd I’ve never had a stuck case using it. I do switch to Imperial sizing wax for necking up cartridges.
Hornady One Shot is garbage case lube. I bought a can early on and had poor results, then read some threads on here and have it up. The only thing I do with One Shot is, after I clean dies with brake cleaner, I give them a shot of One Shot. I figure it can’t hurt the dies. ETA: OP, you should clean your dies before going forward. Pull them apart and really hose them down and out with spray cleaner. Check the inside of your sizing die, it’s possible there’s a physical problem with the die. |
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[#20]
Answering questions:
-I cleaned the die between each stuck case, so plenty of variations on that front. Also degreaser. Also alcohol. Also dry lube. Also no lube. Also CLP for funsies lol. -Leaving One Shot to dry actually made the performance worse, but I tried several variations of dry time, no improvement. -Going to check how low the decaping pin is. That’s a factor I hadn’t considered. -Going shopping for the lanolin ingredients. The reviews are very encouraging. Also let it be known One Shot has never done me wrong on pistol cases... |
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[#21]
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[#22]
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[#23]
Quoted: Get a 2 Gallon Ziploc bag. Put brass in it such that if you laid it flat, it would more or less be 1 layer thick. Spray 2 sprays. Shake baggie around (I grab two corners, flip it up and let it land on opposite side, and I repeat a few times). Open baggie and spray twice more. Repeat. Done. I'm a bit more methodical than most probably, but I've never had a single stuck case using this method, and I've probably done 8-10k pieces this way now. View Quote Same here. Thousands of cases lubed with One Shot and I'm not about to change to anything else since it works for me. I us a quart ZipLock zipped shut. Spray, shake 30 seconds, let sit 2 minutes, and then repeat once. Dump out in a cake pan and let sit for 2 minutes or so and size. Never had one stuck case. |
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[#24]
Hey we are all enthused about our hobby.
If you like OneStuck you can keep your OneStuck. But the majority of folks that I know that reload hate the stuff. What ever trips your trigger. |
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[#25]
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[#26]
Meh, learn how to apply it correctly and one shot works fine....
If you can't, then make your own lanolin/alcohol lube or buy one of many on the market.. |
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[#27]
One shot works ONLY for pistol brass. I use for pistol brass only on my 650. Everything else gets either Dillon or Frankfort case lube. Spray it on, let it dry for a few hours then size it. Both Dillon and Frankfort are lanolin based lubes, every so often they get thick and need a shoot of alcohol to keep them just right. Also the RCBS spray on case lube works good, small bottle and it is expensive compared to the others or make your own.
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[#28]
All the advise above is solid except for the part about throwing away One Shot. One Shot is perfectly usable IF you follow the instructions to the letter.
I've never stuck a case with One Shot if I did that. Dillon and homebrew lubes ain't magic either- they have their warts, but sticking cases ain't one of them. Now, for stuck case removal, if you haven't already done so, you can get a stuck case remover kit on the cheap from your local hardware store or your garage if you have a tap set. What you’re gonna need: # 28 drill bit 1/4-20 tap 1/4-20 bolt with at least 1.5" of thread 1/4" fender washer socket or 6- 5/8" washers or a ½” pipe “close nipple” to fit over the case head If you haven't learned how to use it, here's how: Unscrew the decapping stem and lift it as high as you can in the die; tighten it down Screw the sizer die into the press upside down so that the die mouth is flush with the press top Drill out the primer pocket with the #28 bit Tap the hole Place the socket (or washers) with the 1/4" fender washer over the protruding case Begin turning the bolt into the hole and continue turning until the case pops out Squirting some oil or liquid case lube helps the process The case should pull off the decapping stem; if not, put it back in the press the ‘right way’ and pull it out. We've all done it when we first set out in this hobby. Anyone that denies it, is just trying to save face. |
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[#30]
Quoted: All the advise above is solid except for the part about throwing away One Shot. One Shot is perfectly usable IF you follow the instructions to the letter. I've never stuck a case with One Shot if I did that. Dillon and homebrew lubes ain't magic either- they have their warts, but sticking cases ain't one of them. Now, for stuck case removal, if you haven't already done so, you can get a stuck case remover kit on the cheap from your local hardware store or your garage if you have a tap set. What you’re gonna need: # 28 drill bit 1/4-20 tap 1/4-20 bolt with at least 1.5" of thread 1/4" fender washer socket or 6- 5/8" washers or a ½” pipe “close nipple” to fit over the case head If you haven't learned how to use it, here's how: Unscrew the decapping stem and lift it as high as you can in the die; tighten it down Screw the sizer die into the press upside down so that the die mouth is flush with the press top Drill out the primer pocket with the #28 bit Tap the hole Place the socket (or washers) with the 1/4" fender washer over the protruding case Begin turning the bolt into the hole and continue turning until the case pops out Squirting some oil or liquid case lube helps the process The case should pull off the decapping stem; if not, put it back in the press the ‘right way’ and pull it out. We've all done it when we first set out in this hobby. Anyone that denies it, is just trying to save face. View Quote Attached File |
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[#31]
Quoted: When you use the lanolin mix, how do you apply it? (Especially around the case neck) View Quote I put the brass in a cardboard box and shake/spray them. Let them dry and size them. I tried plastic tubs and such but they get sticky lanolin buildup and the box is much cleaner because the residue is absorbed. |
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[#32]
Quoted: Answering questions: -I cleaned the die between each stuck case, so plenty of variations on that front. Also degreaser. Also alcohol. Also dry lube. Also no lube. Also CLP for funsies lol. -Leaving One Shot to dry actually made the performance worse, but I tried several variations of dry time, no improvement. -Going to check how low the decaping pin is. That's a factor I hadn't considered. -Going shopping for the lanolin ingredients. The reviews are very encouraging. Also let it be known One Shot has never done me wrong on pistol cases... View Quote Good luck. |
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[#33]
The interior of your sizing die is probably galled with brass build up. Clean it with copper removing solvent and a chamber brush. Make sure it's clean and shiny before returning it to service.
I use Imperial Sizing Die Wax or Hornady's clear/white wax (not their reddish/brown wax) to resize bottle necked cases. I only lube the case body, never the shoulder or necks. Never stuck a case using these products. Hornady's reddish/brown wax is too thick for normal resizing duty IMO. I use it for de-Glocking .40 S&W brass. It works great for that HD application. |
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[#34]
Good evening leftytheking, all.
Tried a can of Hornady Oneshot years ago and encountered several stuck cases. Tried every imaginable way possible to get it to work but forced to revert back to the dreaded sticky pad. Rolling case after case and the mess, argh! Found the saving-grace formula of liquid lanolin and alcohol here and never had a stuck case since. I use RCBS small-base dies for most rounds destined to cycle through a semi-auto. And I know many will chime-in saying small-base dies are unnecessary and over-work brass and yada-yada-yada-yada ad-nauseam; the RCBS s-b dies work for me in my particular case. And the liquid lanolin/alcohol case-lube is especially helpful for me in that I don't see the cases being over-worked at alll. This afternoon I prepped ~500 .308WIN cases effortlessly. |
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