What years are the ones to look for? I'm not too keen on the OEM muzzle device and would like to put a mil-spec one on. Is that possible? Also, will a bayo fit on it?
Thanks for any help.
ETA: What would be an acceptable price for one, panic and all?
ETA2: I won the auction. I paid a little more than I wanted, but what the hell, it's only money.
Where is a good source for Check-Mate mags? They want 55 bucks for the Springfield 20 rounders.

I see grab a gun has 22" MIa for under 1400...

I'm looking for the M1a Scout Squad.
1400 isn't too bad, I guess.

I'd select an M1A with a conventional, military-length, military configuration barrel, because the iron sights (the best ever offered on a Battle Rifle) will work properly with that length of barrel.  After that, if optics are desired, I'd install an Ultimak scout rail, proper optic and mounts, and learn how to use it properly.

People opting-for a shorter length of barrel are choosing perceived "handiness" instead of the iron sights working as designed, increased flash signature, and reduced effective range.  Physics are physics.  Install a full GI cleaning kit into the butt stock--as originally intended, and see for yourself how the "handiness"/center of gravity of the rifle changes.  For the better, IMHO.

I'd try to find a GI synthetic stock, as such stocks are impervious to moisture, lighter than the wooden stocks, and generally tighter-fitting than most wooden stocks, and so inherently more accurate.

No way I'd opt for a barrel-mounted "Scout" rail, as some owners of such claim that significant heat transfer through the barrel-mounted rail "cooks" some electronic optics.  Been some threads about such.

Yes, I own an M1A. Painfully--and expensively-- worked my way around to my current opinions.  BTDT.  YMMV.

My 18" barrel Scout with Aimpoint T1 mounted on the provided rail runs like a top. It has seen some high-round-counts at matches and classes. No issues.

Thank you for your post. I've been reading these forums in this site as research for my first M1a and you seem to know your stuff! Ever since I was a kid I've always wanted an M14 and have even handled a few at gunshows (many, many years ago) and thought they just felt really good. Well, I was looking for a Kimber K6S and finally found one but the lines to get inside the gunstores are crazy long here. I finally found a gunstore with a short wait (20 minutes to get in) and while they didn't have the Kimber, they did have plenty of M1a rifles for  sale. I saw the Scout and fell in love with it. So, maybe one day I'll get the full-length one, but for now, I want the Scout Squad.
What type of mags? I've read here that Checkmate are grest. What about Springfield OEM mags?

Awesome, that's what I want to hear! What brand mags do you run?

The USGI flash hider works pretty good.  

A vortex on an 18” is as good or better.

I think it gets dicey on the 16” barrels.   I despise the noise blast on the 16” .308s.  

I wouldn’t have a 16” barrel unless I lived somewhere where I could add a suppressor.  


Just my personal opinion.  

That “coast guard brake” is quite loud from what I was told by parole guy who owned one on a socom.

I like the looks of the GI FH, and since my main reason for buying one of these magnificent beauties is because I love the way it looks, I think I'm gonna go GI.
ETA: Although after looking at some pics, the OEM one is starting to grow on me.

Try to get one that is NM reamed.   Iirc it is a number 7 or 8 tapered reamer that opens a cone to avoid the chance of bullet srike with a misalignment.   The SAInc ones are cast as opposed to usgi forged and in the NM format already.


ETA for an 18” I think with an untouched USGI flash hider the bayonet lug interferes with removing the gas piston.  My memory might be off though.

Your post is timely OP for a number of reasons.  I've had a Scout for about 12 years and really have not shot it much.  I mainly got it to try to build out my collection of modern era (my def of WW1 and beyond) war rifles, get something in the semi-auto/mag fed .308 battle rifle world and its just a cool rifle & not as big as the full size.  Fast forward to today, I have a number of other rifles that a shoot a lot more, but all of the AR style/pattern, I jut built my first AR-10/308 rifle and like it a lot more than I thought I would and I'm wondering do I really need/want to keep the M1A Scout.  I'd like to get at least one more AR-10 and still hope/plan to build and/or buy my own KAC MK11 Mod 1 rifle or near clone...

My Scout is 100% factory, I've only used the GI (CMI) mags, almost always the M80 ball ammo (very little heavier ammo, without optics it seemed like a waste), put a leather 1917 sling on it and the wooden stock looks and feels great (but I'd hate to bang it all up).  No interest in any of the chassis looks.  An optic would be nice, the Ultmax rail makes a lot of sense, esp for a red dot optic...but If I'm going to have to put any significant money into it (beyond making it functional with a SF 308 suppressor) then I'm not interested.  Which leads me back to why do I keep it?

How did you enjoy shooting it?
IM sent.
@ NukeThemTillTheyGlow

Its been great, no jambs or issues.  I went thought a period about 10 or so years ago where I picked up some WW2 CMP rifles as well as the Scout and really focused on lube/shooting best practices, cleaning, etc.  Has worked fine.  But I probably have less than 40-50 rounds through it total.

Yeah, I kinda wish i had gotten into the game much earlier, when surplus ammo was readily available.

I won the auction. I paid a little more than I wanted, but what the hell, it's only money.
Where is a good source for Check-Mate mags? They want 55 bucks for the Springfield 20 rounders.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/OK-who-s-got-all-the-M1A-mags-/6-514855/

I got 2 from Classic Arms.

You want what you want.
My friend just dumped a crap ton of money and doo-dads onto a 16" and it looks like a Dog's Breakfast and balances poorly.
I love the platform but the one I still have is a full length Springfield NM.
I may be a bit biased as a run a NM M1 in 308 with a Smith Industries muzzle brake...gotta love the M1 Thumb.
Checkmate mags work for me.
Living in NJ, we were cut to 15rd and now 10rd mags, Checkmate seems fine for both.
Good Luck!!!

Congrats on.  Welcome to the club. Pics?

I checked those sites and the only ones left were the Checkmate stainless ones. I'm looking for GI ones so I ordered two of the stainless ones.
Thanks!
Springfield mags (20 rounders) are 55 bucks!

After looking at pics I think you are correct about the gas piston. I found some FH at Fulton Armory. Why are the GI ones so expensive, because they are forged? Are the Fulton ones cast?
How hard is it to take the front sight off of the FH? I know that there is a set screw but will I need a sight pusher to remove it?

I probably won't get it until sometime next week. It's coming from Pompano Beach Florida so I hope they ship it before the hurricane gets crazy and interrupts shipping. Those poor coastal people, I hope it doesn't hit them too hard! Then my ffl is only open from mon-thur, so maybe not for two weeks.

USGI ones have been long out of production.  cast is fine and cheaper.  I haven’t broke the cast one on my Loaded model.  

The front sight comes off easily, similar to the garand, loosen screw to remove or shift for setting a mechanical zero.  No it should easily slip on the dovetail mating surfaces.  ETA its been awhile, to remove you might have to take the screw out.  Mine have been set so long I am fuzzy.   It is a tiny screw so tighten it but don’t go ridiculous and strip the allen head.  

OK, OP.  No offense to others, but this is the point where all sorts of people will suggest spending a lot of money on stuff you might not need right now.  No offense to other posters.

OP, get a GOOD manual for your rifle, one that gives you, at the least, the proper maintenance instructions and describes the proper lubricants.  You will need some grease, and a tub of synthetic CV joint grease from the local auto/WalMart store will last a long time, and be cheap.  Can use the grease on other things/rifles.

Assemble a good cleaning kit specifically for your M1A.  This definitely includes a muzzle device that centers the cleaning rod in the flash hider.  Why?   To prevent wear on the muzzle rifling, which destroys accuracy.  This also includes a coated cleaning rod sized for your rifle, both in caliber and length.  Having a rod too long will hit the bolt, and allow it to slam forward.  Look into "service" length cleaning rods.

Always clean your M1A from the chamber to the muzzle.  Period.  PULL the rod through, same way the bullet travels.  BRASS cleaning brushes and patch holders.

Once you have read--and understood-- a good user's manual, dismantle the thing and clean/lube it by the book.  Go to the range, and shoot it, hopefully with decent ammo.  Calibrate/adjust your rear/front sights using the pinned thread in the M1/M1A forum.  Follow the instructions to the letter.

So far, the appropriate cleaning kit, grease, guide book, and muzzle guide might be $50 or so.  It's a wise investment.

Just do these simple things for now, and get things sorted-out.  There is plenty of time to spend money in the future, but I strongly suggest getting the rifle squared-away, and shooting it a lot before considering additional purchases. Verify that the rifle is functioning properly, first and foremost!

In the unlikely event gunsmith services are needed, return it to the mfr for repairs, if under warranty, or take/send it to verified, skilled gunsmith for repairs.  DO NOT place it in the hands of a gunsmith in whom you you have no verified knowledge.  Ask around for good M1A gunsmiths.  They're out there, and a far better value that the local "gunsmith" that screws up your M1A.

Learn from my past mistakes.

Your call.  Best of luck.  Report back when you can.    

I have owned all three flavors of m1a, standard, socom, and scout squad.

the scout squad is probably the best in overall handling and the muzzle break while loud is effective. the socom was terrible, way to obnoxious and the front sight was yugggggeeeee.

I currently only own one and its the standard in a wood stock. the iron sights are amazing. I may leave it alone or try to wring out some additional precision with a sage EBR.

I ordered a USGI surplus from Treeline along with a vented handguard.

Thank you again @raf!
I definitely plan on shooting it stock before making any mods to it. I bought 5 boxes of ammo ranging from 150 to 175g. Winchester HOG 150g Power Point (2 boxes), Federal 165g Bonded Soft point (1 box), and Federal 175g Sierra Match King (1 box).
I also ordered a vented handguard from Treeline with a GI cleaning kit, just to put in the butt storage. I ordered a non-vented hand guard also from Numrich, this one didn't come with the clip. How hard is it to take the clip off of one and put on the other? Do I need to take the gas block off to replace the handguards?
Also, the item description on  the auction said that the rifle was unfired. I usually take these descriptors with a grain of salt, but when I picked it up, it truly WAS unfired and came with all of the paperwork. I just registered for the lifetime warranty from Springfield and took advantage of their one-time special and bought a 20-round mag and leather sling. Will for sure buy the grease and proper cleaning rods/guides. Do I really need a M14 wrench to remove the gas block?
Again, Thank you all!

Same shallow "semi-circular" clip for all GI handguards M1/M-14.  A specific tool is offered for un-doing the clip, and removing the handguard.  I found a large-sized E-Ring/Circlip tool from an auto parts store, and used that-- Also useful for its originally intended purpose.  It's on the large side, and one can adjust it to open outwards, or open inwards.  Replaceable tips; The tips of the tool fit into the little holes on the ends of the clip, and you can wiggle the HG off.  You'll probably scratch the finish on the barrel.  De-grease, and touch-up with Birchwood-Casey Blueing liquid.

The Mil originally used wooden HGs, but found them subject to temperature-induced damage, and generally fragile.  You're unlikely to fire enough rounds, semi-auto. to ignite the HG, but OTOH, some Garand users had their wooden HGs smoking after a "hard day at work".  Next iteration was the synthetic slotted version, but after a lot of firing, the vents allowed some objectionable heat "waves" to be emitted, which disturbed the sight picture.  Last and final iteration was the un-slotted synthetic version.  Note how it's painted silver on the inside?  That's for a reason--namely reducing heat-induced mirage/waves.

The proper M-14 GI cleaning kit should come with a rod handle/tool that doubles as a tool to service the rifle, removing the gas cylinder screw being one of its' many uses.   A good User's manual will show you all of its' features, and tell you how to stow the whole kit.  A simple box end wrench (less likely to slip) will do, but get the proper tool.  Some folks use a special wrench for their Match-Prepared M1As, which grips the rifle at a strong point, and allows a good lever to work against when removing the gas cyl screw.  Optional unless you have made extensive (and fragile) Match-level mods to the M1A, but at that point, mandatory.  

I suggest doing some solid research before firing the 175gn bullets.  Might be kinda borderline, IMHO, depending on how the ctg was loaded, and the pressure provided.  Your rifle was designed to shoot a nominal 147-150gn bullet at a muzzle velocity of approx 2750 feet/second.  Do yourself a favor, and make a point to positively verify that the ammo you bought is safe for your rifle-- IOW, within design parameters.  Match shooters use bullets up to 175 grain, but they load their ctgs specifically for the M1A.  E-mail the mfr, if necessary for positive confirmation.  Some folks will poo-poo this very cautious advice, and possibly give you different advice.  Your call on whether to heed such advice or not, but it's your rifle that might be at risk, not theirs.  It's true that the M1A/M-14 gas system is, to a degree, capable of venting excess gasses, but that feature has its' limits.  Best to not push such limits.

I strongly suggest reading Fulton Armory's FAQs about the M1A.  Here's a link: https://www.fulton-armory.com/m14faqs.aspx

Their comments about not using reloaded ammo are overly cautious, IMHO.  I've reloaded for many semi-auto rifles over the decades.  Being certain about every single step in the process is, as always, absolutely essential.  

As for the leather slings, particularly the ancient M1907, Antiques all of them.  Better modern slings that won't rot, nor elongate the holes and weaken and snap.

Your next purchase might be some dead-huts reliable magazines.  Always take apart any mag, and clean/inspect.  Have some new-bought springs, specifically made for your intended mag available.  I've seen many rusty/bent mag springs, and worn-out ones (too short).   Give the mag spring a light film of oil prior to re-assembly, in order to prevent rust.

Sorry for blathering.  Best wishes!

Again, thank you @raf. I checked the manual and it mentions to only shoot new 7.62x51 or facotry new 308 ammo, doesn't mention bullet grain. Also, the bbl is marked 308. But I will heed your advice and not shoot those heavier ones until I get affirmation from Springfield. The mag that I bought with the rifle is a 20 rounder marked CMI. The dealer I bought it from said it was a Springfield mag.
I did some reading on those links you posted and there was a lot of useful info!

CMI = CheckMate Industries.  IIRC, good quality magazines. Suggest you get some more.

CMI makes the OEM mags for Springfield.  They also make their 1911 mags.  They make OEM mags for the SIG and Ruger 1911s as well.

The rifles can shoot .308 or 7.62 loads, Springfield confirmed this to me when they built me a second rifle in exchange for an out of spec one.

Yup. I ordered some stainless ones as that's all they had at the moment. I went to their site the next day to order tqo more and they were already sold out.

Yup. I've used the stainless ones exclusively in my Springfield 1911 GI stainless. Very nice mags. I hope these have the same smooth finish as the 1911 ones.

Other vendors besides Springfield and CMI may have them.  Just verify the mfr before ordering.  If no joy, check the usual vendors/sites frequently, and be
ready to pounce.  Might not hurt to have a 5-rd (hunting) mag, and a couple of 10-rd mags as well.

I have the 10-round Springfield mag that came with the rifle. Just got my CMI stainless mags and they are beautiful!
I saw that Academy has some Monarch Steel-cased 308 145g ammo.  What do you think of this for just plinking? It's only 10 bucks a box, I took a risk and bought tqo just in case the consensus is that it's ok for the gun. If you guys think it's ok, I'll go back tomorrow and buy more, if it's still there.

I don’t tend to run steel case through USGI type weapons but I’ve seen some YouTube guys run steel through M1A’s without problems. I shot a few rounds of Herter’s branded Tula through an M1A once just to see how it grouped. It was pretty good but all three cartridges showed signs of overpressure so I stopped. The primers were flattened and slightly backed out, Don’t know if it was the batch of ammo or what.

Exact same issue with me and Hertal ammo.

Don't use steel cased ammo in your M1 or M1A.  I don't know all the technical reasons for it, but that combo has caused more than one blow up, and the SA manual specifically says to not use steel cased ammo.  Maybe something to do with the roughness of the chamber, or when in the pressure cycle the bolt unlocks, not sure.  But it's a bad combo.

The only separated case I've ever had in 35 years of shooting was with Herter’s ammo in my .308 Garand.  Just don't risk it.

The 20 round stainless mags are the way to go.  Midway usually has them for less than 30 bucks.  The 10 round mags are a pain to use - they're too short to get a good handle and leverage to be able to install them or get them out.

As for the gas nut, the nut itself is some common size, 3/8" I want to say, you can just use a standard wrench and socket set for it.  

But, if it's in there tight, as mine was on my new SOCOM, you need a backup wrench to hold it steady to be able to get it off.  Little to no lube on the threads from the factor - don't know why, I've seen the same dry threads on suppressors, and couple of my buddies have shot theirs as from the factory, then had a devil of a time getting them off after carbon build up, plus a heat / cool cycle.

They're 25 bucks or such, but I would get a purpose made gas block wrench to hold things, then use a socket to get the plug off before you fire it, then lube the threads and put it back on.  On mine, I had to fire it a few times to get it warm before I could get the plug off, even with the backup wrench and a socket.  

I think you'll like it.  Are M1A state of the art - no, that would be a modern AR10 patter with all the free floats and rails and sights and such.  If I was outfitting a unit I'd go that way.  But as a civilian, you'll never be outgunned if you have an M1A that you know how to use.  

Thanks for the replies guys. I guess I'll just put the steel-cased in a can and forget about it. I can't wait for the weather to improve so I can take it to the range!

Concur, with some slight reservations.  One can use a wrench, with padded jaws in lieu of the purpose-made, and thus expensive "gas block wrench" .  A little anti-seize compound will do.  I bought Action Wrenches for both M1As and M1s.  Label them clearly, because they are almost identical.

The smaller-capacity 10-rd mags are an "insurance policy" in case your State prohibits 20-rd mags.  Don't be caught unawares.  5-rd mags are for hunting, and a reliable one is always useful.

Don't think the mfr of your rifle advocates steel-cased ammo.

You know, I read the manual, but couldn't remember if they mentioned steel-cased ammo or not. I'm not gonna risk it. I'll stick with brass. Good suggestion for the anti-seize compound.

@raygixxer89 sorry I bought all my mags before 2010 I believe they are all usgi or checkmate. There used to be a vendor called 44mag that sold m14/m1a mags really cheap. I stocked up.

@raf has given you a bunch of good advice. I'll add one thing. Don't ever let the bolt fly with a round in chamber. This rifle is susceptible to slam-fires. Here is an explanation.

Congrats on your new rifle.

Oh, that's cool, no worries over here. I'm buying from Check-Mate and Springfield. I think the funnest part of buying a new gun (next to actually shooting it) is buying all of the accessories needed to use and care for it.
@heavily_armed

On a new rifle, it can be a big hassle to separate the changing handle from the bolt.  You line it up with the handle tap in line with the rear sight screw, and you are supposed to be able to pull it out.  But it's so tight on a new one you can't.  A tip I saw on you tube was take a flat screwdriver, wrap the end with some tap to prevent maring, then put it between the handle and the bolt, line things up, and give it a wack with a small hammer.

The impact force separates them in a way mere pressure won't - difference between swinging a hammer and trying to push a nail it.  Some good videos on it which explain it better that I did.

Yup, I've watched all the viseos and they all mention it being a pain in the butt, lol. I haven't stripped her down yet since I'm still waiting for the tools to get here.
What do you guys think of Bel-Ray waterproof grease: Automotive, Marine, Motorcycle
I bought a tub of it about 15 years ago, I can't remember for what. Never been used, so I probably found something else to use instead if it.

With all due respect, I disagree.  I have  M1s and a Springfield Arsenal Super Match M1A that are/were seldom used, and which don't requiring "hammering" apart.

While both rifles are sometimes (when brand new) a little reluctant to dis-assemble, I suggest not "hammering" them apart.   .YMMV

I was going to mention that. I never saw or read mention of using a hammer.
Just kind of jiggle it when it's in the correct spot.

Tony_Ben is a good source of info on working on M14 variants on the internet and YouTube. Here’s a disassembly link that addresses disengaging the op rod on new rifles...as well as complete disassembly http://www.m14.ca/Tony_Bens_Guides/Tony_Ben_M14_Complete_Disassembly.pdf

It came up on the list of videos in You Tube when I typed in M1A disassembly or such.  

On my new SOCOM, no amount of pulling the handle away from the bolt was getting it out.  So I put a taped screwdriver between the bolt and handle, pressed out, and gave the handle a light tap with a brass hammer.  The shock plus the pre-tension separated the two like charm, and didn't mar anything up.