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ME, USA
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Posted: 12/30/2019 7:27:00 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Fat_McNasty:
1050nm LED is here. Its now scabbed into a Fancyfire. It might be an issue with leaving it on since my eyes cannot see any glow on the LED. Now waiting for it to get dark and give it a try. SiOnyx can see it waved around in front of it. So I can tell its working. I'll report back when I have more. Later tonight. |
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ME, USA
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Posted: 12/30/2019 7:34:19 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cledford3:
Quick question, albeit a bit OT, for those with helmet rigs, are you doing anything for audio (sound) enhancement? Hearing protection is helpful, as are stealthily comms for those so equipped, by what about actual sound enhancement as an intentional goal unto itself? I’ve seen peltor headsets that seem to cover the first two well, but what about enhancing hearing ability in same fashion night vision and thermal enhance our sight? Thanks for any input. |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 12/30/2019 7:55:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Johnny_C]
[#3]
Not to sound condescending, but heck yea!
Augmented hearing is a great tool for lots of things, even outside of shooting. I used these to add Howard Leights to my bump helmets. They work great. I like the ability to rotate them back when I don't need them, but they are always there when I want them. And I use the HL's because they have great battery life, good sound quality, good noise clipping, and they are very affordable. So I can have multiple sets to loan out when needed. Mounts Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cledford3:
Quick question, albeit a bit OT, for those with helmet rigs, are you doing anything for audio (sound) enhancement? Hearing protection is helpful, as are stealthily comms for those so equipped, by what about actual sound enhancement as an intentional goal unto itself? I’ve seen peltor headsets that seem to cover the first two well, but what about enhancing hearing ability in same fashion night vision and thermal enhance our sight? Thanks for any input. |
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SC, USA
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Posted: 12/30/2019 8:19:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Styer]
[#4]
What's the better IR light right now? The Fandyfire or Bestsun?
Thanks, Michael |
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Posted: 12/30/2019 8:24:01 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Styer:
What's the better IR light right now? The Fandyfire or Bestsun? Thanks, Michael |
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Posted: 12/30/2019 8:27:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: smokedoff]
[#6]
I seem to be having trouble with my ear pro on my ops core bump. I think someone replied in another thread that the ops core is cut lower than other helmets? The ear pro sits way too low, even after doing some bending. Anybody have any advice?
Howard Leights |
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Posted: 12/30/2019 8:57:26 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cledford3:
Quick question, albeit a bit OT, for those with helmet rigs, are you doing anything for audio (sound) enhancement? Hearing protection is helpful, as are stealthily comms for those so equipped, by what about actual sound enhancement as an intentional goal unto itself? I’ve seen peltor headsets that seem to cover the first two well, but what about enhancing hearing ability in same fashion night vision and thermal enhance our sight? Thanks for any input. Tomac  Attached File |
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Posted: 12/30/2019 8:59:56 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By gaspain:
They appear to be the same, but best sun comes with a crap battery and charger vs none. Both eat batts when off. Tomac |
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SC, USA
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Posted: 12/30/2019 9:16:26 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tomac: I can't speak for anyone else's Bestsun, but my initial problem appears to have been finishing residue in the tailcap threads. Cleaned them thoroughly and am currently retesting for battery drain. Tomac Also do they take the flat top 18650 cells? Like you pull out of laptop batteries or power tool battery packs. I have plenty of those laying around |
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Posted: 12/30/2019 9:23:25 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Styer:
Good to know! Also do they take the flat top 18650 cells? Like you pull out of laptop batteries or power tool battery packs. I have plenty of those laying around Tomac |
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Posted: 12/30/2019 9:43:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Fat_McNasty]
[#11]
Ok got a chance to try it, its a big nope in the fancyfire. at wide setting you get nothing. on narrow beam its maybe 12 feet. I have another flashlight body on the way and ill try with a reflector. Up close it works pretty well as a spot to read something by. That's about it.
on another note, a 1050nm laser through a refractor might work. sorry about the upside down vid.  1050nm test |
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Posted: 12/30/2019 10:04:47 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Fat_McNasty:
Ok got a chance to try it, its a big nope in the fancyfire. at wide setting you get nothing. on narrow beam its maybe 12 feet. I have another flashlight body on the way and ill try with a reflector. Up close it works pretty well as a spot to read something by. That's about it. on another note, a 1050nm laser through a refractor might work. sorry about the upside down vid.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSFjA7sFhiI
Any idea what the problem may be? At least we know the Sionyx *can* see that high in the IR spectrum, so it's not a total failure. Looking forward to your further efforts on our behalf (w/thanks)! Tomac |
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Posted: 12/30/2019 10:18:46 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tomac: Shucks and other comments!
Any idea what the problem may be? At least we know the Sionyx *can* see that high in the IR spectrum, so it's not a total failure. Looking forward to your further efforts on our behalf (w/thanks)! Tomac |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 12/30/2019 10:39:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Johnny_C]
[#14]
My HL's fit just fine on my Fast Bump,
with the 3M peltor ARC's. Are you using a mounting set? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By smokedoff:
I seem to be having trouble with my ear pro on my ops core bump. I think someone replied in another thread that the ops core is cut lower than other helmets? The ear pro sits way too low, even after doing some bending. Anybody have any advice? Howard Leights |
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Posted: 12/30/2019 10:54:33 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Maverick52:
Phew... All 46 pages read, now I'm caught up 
I'm still going to have to digest all that info a bit, but I'm excited about the possibilities with one of these things. For now I'm thinking it will be an excellent tool for navigating while night hunting. A few things I noticed touched on throughout the thread that I'd like to offer some input on. A) Cables. The cables posted here probably work great so far but with all the talk of unplugging & plugging, routing to eliminate stress, or etc. I thought there might be a better solution for someone to try. Magnetic cables would eliminate any stress on the plugs from any of those activities, and be 'break away" if needed. www.amazon.com/dp/B07XK8WPPCB) For mounting the Sionyx in front of your day optic I think the key is going to be a mount that allows windage & elevation adjustments. I was researching the Leupold Tracker thermal monocular recently and came across some people who were mounting that into a scope ring with windage & elevation adjustments. An adjustable mount for the Sionyx would allow you to dial its POA to be equal to your day optics POA. I have a few ideas on how that could be made but realistically I don't have the tools to accomplish it. I imagine even a 3d printed version would work decently with the right design, but even then my printer is a little lacking. Now personally I think I'd rather use a dedicated scope like a Sightmark Wraith or ATN X-Sight since you've pretty much accepted IR use with the Sionyx, but for "in a pinch" kind of scenarios using the Sionyx as a clip on might be worthwhile. |
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Posted: 12/30/2019 11:02:18 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dace: You really thin magnetic hook ups are a smart idea on something that might be used while running or doing strenuous activity? Your head and helmet bounce a lot even while walking. Maybe around the house sure but for anything else I would probably look elsewhere. |
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Posted: 12/30/2019 11:14:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Maverick52]
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dace: You really thin magnetic hook ups are a smart idea on something that might be used while running or doing strenuous activity? Your head and helmet bounce a lot even while walking. Maybe around the house sure but for anything else I would probably look elsewhere. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dace: You really thin magnetic hook ups are a smart idea on something that might be used while running or doing strenuous activity? Your head and helmet bounce a lot even while walking. Maybe around the house sure but for anything else I would probably look elsewhere. Originally Posted By kallnojoy:
I use the magnetic charger adapter on the battery bank... makes plugging in the helmet a snap... but yeah, not on the cam connections. I walk through the woods all the time and they'd be knocked off 2 steps in. As far as being in the woods & snagging them, that's the point IMO. Better to have the cable break away with no damage than continually stress the micro USB port on the Sionyx. Unless there is something weird about how the Scionyx uses an external power source it should just switch to the internal battery if you've snagged a cable off. Without having held one I can't say for sure, but that is pretty standard for consumer electronics. |
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Posted: 12/30/2019 11:27:47 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Johnny_C:
My HL's fit just fine on my Fast Bump, with the 3M peltor ARC's. Are you using a mounting set? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Johnny_C:
My HL's fit just fine on my Fast Bump, with the 3M peltor ARC's. Are you using a mounting set? Originally Posted By smokedoff:
I seem to be having trouble with my ear pro on my ops core bump. I think someone replied in another thread that the ops core is cut lower than other helmets? The ear pro sits way too low, even after doing some bending. Anybody have any advice? Howard Leights |
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SC, USA
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Posted: 12/31/2019 11:40:56 AM EDT
[#19]
Does anyone having a good ACH or regular helmet mount solution for these Bestsun/fandyfire lights?
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USA
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Posted: 12/31/2019 12:10:50 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Styer:
Does anyone having a good ACH or regular helmet mount solution for these Bestsun/fandyfire lights? |
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USA
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Posted: 12/31/2019 12:13:36 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Maverick52: The magnetic cables I've used (for charging my phone on the motorcycle) are pretty strong for what they are. I've even seen some with a locater pin. I really don't see those coming off without being pulled on directly. As far as being in the woods & snagging them, that's the point IMO. Better to have the cable break away with no damage than continually stress the micro USB port on the Sionyx. Unless there is something weird about how the Scionyx uses an external power source it should just switch to the internal battery if you've snagged a cable off. Without having held one I can't say for sure, but that is pretty standard for consumer electronics. |
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USA
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Posted: 12/31/2019 12:16:10 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Fat_McNasty:
Ok got a chance to try it, its a big nope in the fancyfire. at wide setting you get nothing. on narrow beam its maybe 12 feet. I have another flashlight body on the way and ill try with a reflector. Up close it works pretty well as a spot to read something by. That's about it. on another note, a 1050nm laser through a refractor might work. Do you have a PVS-14 to try to see it with?
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USA
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Posted: 12/31/2019 12:21:57 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By smokedoff:
I seem to be having trouble with my ear pro on my ops core bump. I think someone replied in another thread that the ops core is cut lower than other helmets? The ear pro sits way too low, even after doing some bending. Anybody have any advice? Howard Leights |
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Posted: 12/31/2019 1:07:50 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mickdonaldson:
I would LOVE *compact* 90 degree magnetic - but the ones you posted looked big at the camera connector end - definite no-go for a Dual setup, would have to test on a Mono, for interference with the Bridge. You using them now? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mickdonaldson:
Originally Posted By Maverick52: The magnetic cables I've used (for charging my phone on the motorcycle) are pretty strong for what they are. I've even seen some with a locater pin. I really don't see those coming off without being pulled on directly. As far as being in the woods & snagging them, that's the point IMO. Better to have the cable break away with no damage than continually stress the micro USB port on the Sionyx. Unless there is something weird about how the Scionyx uses an external power source it should just switch to the internal battery if you've snagged a cable off. Without having held one I can't say for sure, but that is pretty standard for consumer electronics. FWIW I plan to grab a Sionyx in the near future so if someone doesn't feel like trying the magnetic cables before that I will report how they work. |
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USA
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Posted: 12/31/2019 1:13:58 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Maverick52: Currently I'm not using a Sionyx or that specific cable. The ones I got were a gift and they appear to be roughly similar in size to a standard 90 degree micro USB. Obviously without either in hand it's hard to tell if they would work 100% but I just figured it was an idea that I hadn't seen floated in 46 pages but was an immediate consideration for me when I saw questions and issues with cable routing. I know I've had terrible luck with micro USB ports wearing out and if I had the money invested in the Sionyx's I'd be doing everything I could to avoid stressing the port. FWIW I plan to grab a Sionyx in the near future so if someone doesn't feel like trying the magnetic cables before that I will report how they work. |
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ME, USA
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Posted: 12/31/2019 3:00:54 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Fat_McNasty: ya, I'm like a bulldog on a problem. I think we are going to need a high wattage bulb and supply. It looked like the 1050 laser that was posted earlier worked. IM thinking if it running through a beam spreader or an IR defuser it will be more of an illuminator rather than a spot. I think its gonna take a couple IR beam configs to make these work well in most conditions, a torch with some spill for long range, and a flood for navigating. I have a torch and its impressive but almost too bright for navigating, as soon as you look at the ground or anything up close the brightness causes th3 camera to darken everything on the edges of your fov like walls closing in. A diffused IR that puts a nice glow around you would be ideal for moving about. |
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Posted: 12/31/2019 3:33:12 PM EDT
[#27]
@Fat_McNasty
Instead of trying to retrofit the 1050nm LED into a current IR light, why not start from scratch? Finding the right diameter tube (metal or plastic) shouldn't be too difficult, if I understand what you've ordered most the circuitry to run the LED is already there so no issue there, and a tail cap switch should be easily adaptable. That leaves the "head" and possibly the tail cap. Depending on how you want the light to function then you could take a reflector from a standard led flashlight and build your housing and lens around it. This would probably be an ideal scenario to use 3d printing. There should even be translucent material to print with that would allow more "diffused" lighting than a transparent lens. From the idea I've got in my head this would be a little more time/money on the materials and design side but would cut out the tedious modification of an existing light with simple assembly, so it would probably balance out in the end while being a more flexible solution. Proof of concept could probably be done with nothing more than some quick and dirty prints and stuff found around the house. |
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Posted: 12/31/2019 4:20:38 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Fat_McNasty]
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Maverick52:
@Fat_McNasty Instead of trying to retrofit the 1050nm LED into a current IR light, why not start from scratch? Finding the right diameter tube (metal or plastic) shouldn't be too difficult, if I understand what you've ordered most the circuitry to run the LED is already there so no issue there, and a tail cap switch should be easily adaptable. That leaves the "head" and possibly the tail cap. Depending on how you want the light to function then you could take a reflector from a standard led flashlight and build your housing and lens around it. This would probably be an ideal scenario to use 3d printing. There should even be translucent material to print with that would allow more "diffused" lighting than a transparent lens. From the idea I've got in my head this would be a little more time/money on the materials and design side but would cut out the tedious modification of an existing light with simple assembly, so it would probably balance out in the end while being a more flexible solution. Proof of concept could probably be done with nothing more than some quick and dirty prints and stuff found around the house. another thing I found was the focusing lenses are some times coated to pass only certain spectrums. And the one on the fancy might be tuned to the 940nm spectrum. |
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Posted: 12/31/2019 4:28:39 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Fat_McNasty:
yup, pretty much what I'm doing now. I had the fancy on hand and was going to try a quick and dirty retrofit. Until the other stuff comes in. Found a nice power control board that will pump out 4A and will run off 3.7 to 18 volts. so 2 CR123 is possible for better compatibility. And about shit at the price of the 5W IR LED. $30 for just the bulb. I have a bit of Xmas money I was saving for an IR laser/Illum. Ill grab a few of the caponets this week and get them on their slow shipment from China. another thing I found was the focusing lenses are some times coated to pass only certain spectrums. And the one on the fancy might be tuned to the 940nm spectrum. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Fat_McNasty:
Originally Posted By Maverick52:
@Fat_McNasty Instead of trying to retrofit the 1050nm LED into a current IR light, why not start from scratch? Finding the right diameter tube (metal or plastic) shouldn't be too difficult, if I understand what you've ordered most the circuitry to run the LED is already there so no issue there, and a tail cap switch should be easily adaptable. That leaves the "head" and possibly the tail cap. Depending on how you want the light to function then you could take a reflector from a standard led flashlight and build your housing and lens around it. This would probably be an ideal scenario to use 3d printing. There should even be translucent material to print with that would allow more "diffused" lighting than a transparent lens. From the idea I've got in my head this would be a little more time/money on the materials and design side but would cut out the tedious modification of an existing light with simple assembly, so it would probably balance out in the end while being a more flexible solution. Proof of concept could probably be done with nothing more than some quick and dirty prints and stuff found around the house. another thing I found was the focusing lenses are some times coated to pass only certain spectrums. And the one on the fancy might be tuned to the 940nm spectrum.  Glad to hear it, sounds like you've got a good plan.
If you need an idea for lens/filter, look into what's available for photography lenses. I know they have lots of different filters available, just not sure about for this spectrum as I've never needed to look into them for IR. |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 12/31/2019 7:30:24 PM EDT
[#30]
On the Fandy discharge issue, I put a freshly
charged 18650 in my FF & left it in for 48 hours. The battery was fully charged when I pulled it out a few minutes ago, so mine doesn't appear to have the discharge problem. I ordered mine about 2 months ago from Amazon. FYI. John |
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Posted: 1/1/2020 9:47:38 AM EDT
[#31]
Only slightly off-topic, but can the PVS series see 940nm as easily as lower in the IR spectrum? Thx!...
Tomac |
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USA
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Posted: 1/1/2020 10:26:11 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tomac:
Only slightly off-topic, but can the PVS series see 940nm as easily as lower in the IR spectrum? Thx!... Tomac None of this applies to the Aurora, since it can see up to 1100nm - my 940 stuff throws (can be seen) as far as the 850 stuff - the Fandy can light up targets at 300, fully focused down. I'm also not sure if being digital, means that it doesn't suffer range degradation the closer you get to 1100nm... digital usually means all or nothing - that'd be a good question for Sionyx. |
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Posted: 1/1/2020 3:40:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Maverick52]
[#33]
@Fat_McNasty
I was doing a little browsing today and was looking at the Streamlight Sidewinder Compact II (as I know when I get my Sionyx I'm going to want a helmet mounted light that doesn't need to project a beam a long distance) and I noticed it seems to use pretty standard 5mm LEDs. So I started looking and I found THIS source (and a whole variety of other wavelengths HERE) for some higher wavelength 5mm IR LEDs. They don't appear to be as cheap as the ones I saw listed on alibaba but they seem a bit more legit with their spec sheet being listed. If a Sidewinder Compact II could be modified with one of these, then it is probably going to be a spendier option than retrofitting a Fandyfire or doing a DIY light, but it might turn out better overall. It's hard to say without pulling one of these apart, but it looks like it might be a fairly straight forward disassembly and solder job. The one thing I'm not sure about is if the power rating of these LEDs is enough to be useful. One thing that might make sense as well is not actually replacing the 880nm IR LED in the unit but replacing the blue LED (I figure this is the most redundant one on the unit) so the light will retain the ability to work with standard NV if someone wants it to. I feel bad about throwing these ideas out to you (or anyone else reading this who is interested) without being able to offer to test this myself, but I just don't have the equipment yet. So sorry if it sounds like I'm trying to spend your money (I'm not  ) but you just appear to be the most motivated/vocal poster looking into this and I often just get ideas like this and I figure I should share them on the off chance they're helpful. Again, if nobody else gets to it by the time I get ahold of a Sionyx I'll likely be testing this out myself, although I'll have to work with someone who has analog NV to test that side of it.
edit: there also appears to be a original Sidewinder Compact (not a II) that is similar in design but can be found for slightly cheaper. I'm not sure what the differences are yet, I just noticed that it's available. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/1/2020 4:21:11 PM EDT
[#34]
Thorlabs LEDs are legit. Same goes for Thorlabs in general. Probably spent >$50k with them over the years. Gen 3 NV does not really see the actual 940nm component of 940nm LEDs or anything longer wave than that. LEDs are very broadband sources and a 940nm LED will emit lots of energy below 940nm. Have been able to image the MCP through the photocathode with a 940nm source. That just shows the photocathode is transparent and and not intercepting any energy at these longer wavelengths.
Would recommend this 1060nm LED for experiments. Very bright with a Sionyx camera and all but invisible with Gen 3 NV unless looking right into it. No reason one could not replace one of the T-1-3/4 in a Streamlight Sidewinder with one of these. If replacing the blue or white LEDs, the current limiting resistor will probably need to be adjusted. Forward voltage of IR LEDs is way lower than blue or white (same thing) LEDs. |
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Posted: 1/1/2020 4:40:21 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By txdx:
Thorlabs LEDs are legit. Same goes for Thorlabs in general. Probably spent >$50k with them over the years. Gen 3 NV does not really see the actual 940nm component of 940nm LEDs or anything longer wave than that. LEDs are very broadband sources and a 940nm LED will emit lots of energy below 940nm. Have been able to image the MCP through the photocathode with a 940nm source. That just shows the photocathode is transparent and and not intercepting any energy at these longer wavelengths. Would recommend this 1060nm LED for experiments. Very bright with a Sionyx camera and all but invisible with Gen 3 NV unless looking right into it. No reason one could not replace one of the T-1-3/4 in a Streamlight Sidewinder with one of these. If replacing the blue or white LEDs, the current limiting resistor will probably need to be adjusted. Forward voltage of IR LEDs is way lower than blue or white (same thing) LEDs. The LED you linked looks like it would work well also (and it's cheaper!) and as to the IR LED's emitting a wide band of IR wavelengths the datasheet for the one I linked has a graph that helps show that. I don't see one on the datasheet for yours but I do see some min/max specs and it appears to be much narrower band, is that accurate? I didn't follow you with any of the MCP and photocathode stuff, I wouldn't mind a bit more explanation of how that works/affects the LED/what it is. The part about forward voltage was something I was looking at on the spec sheets and wondering how that worked exactly. I'd assume changing the resistor inside the Sidewinder may be a little harder than the LED for the average guy with a soldering iron, and if so we might be left with replacing the IR LED as the best option. At least you've made us aware of it so we can look into it more, so thank you. The concern that I had with this forward voltage was that it would ultimately mean the IR LED wouldn't output the amount of light that may be necessary but without understanding it fully I don't really know. Think you could explain that for me as well? |
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Posted: 1/1/2020 4:49:40 PM EDT
[#36]
@gaspain
I'm not sure how your resin printer works, as I've never messed with one of those, but talking about lighting solutions has given me another idea. Would it be possible to incorporate some of these LED's and some accompanying circuitry into your mount? It could be fed power by a simple Y cable from someones external battery pack. Hell, if you were able to get real fancy with it maybe there is even a possibility that your mount could be a powered bridge. I figure something like that will likely never provide the light output for illuminating things at distance but would work well for navigation or indoors. A secondary long range illuminator could be helmet/weapon mounted for that purpose. |
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ME, USA
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Posted: 1/1/2020 5:39:32 PM EDT
[#37]
It would be pretty cool to be able to record with the Aurora using the illumination it really needs to get good resolution, while not flashing the shit out of people who are running regular NV. Could be a game changer for recording night shooting activities.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/1/2020 8:43:18 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Maverick52: Thanks for the info! Couple of questions/comments. The LED you linked looks like it would work well also (and it's cheaper!) and as to the IR LED's emitting a wide band of IR wavelengths the datasheet for the one I linked has a graph that helps show that. I don't see one on the datasheet for yours but I do see some min/max specs and it appears to be much narrower band, is that accurate? I didn't follow you with any of the MCP and photocathode stuff, I wouldn't mind a bit more explanation of how that works/affects the LED/what it is. The part about forward voltage was something I was looking at on the spec sheets and wondering how that worked exactly. I'd assume changing the resistor inside the Sidewinder may be a little harder than the LED for the average guy with a soldering iron, and if so we might be left with replacing the IR LED as the best option. At least you've made us aware of it so we can look into it more, so thank you. The concern that I had with this forward voltage was that it would ultimately mean the IR LED wouldn't output the amount of light that may be necessary but without understanding it fully I don't really know. Think you could explain that for me as well? 
LED1070L 
MT51060-IR Gen 3 NV becomes blind pretty quickly much past 880-900nm. The photocathode in Gen 3 devices is made from GaAs and GaAs, as a material, becomes transparent past 880-900nm. The MCP is located behind the photocathode and normally cannot be seen as GaAs is opaque at visible wavelengths. Under 940nm illumination, it's transparent and it's possible to see into the tube and see the MCP behind the photocathode. The forward voltage of blue/white LEDs is roughly 3V at typical forward currents whereas an IR LED, especially a ~1060nm IR LED, will be around 1.2V. As an arbitrary example, if the blue LED sees a forward current of 100mA (Vf=3V) from a 5V source, the required resistance is 20 ohms. Putting in an IR LED (Vf=1.2V) instead with that same resistor and supply voltage will result in a forward current of 190mA, way in excess of the 100mA maximum. I don't know how Streamlight manages their current limiting. Probably a bit more involved than a resistor since the flashlight has a built in switching converter. Replacing the IR LED would be the safest bet. I'm not about to open up my Sidewinder to find out but if anyone wants to send me one, I'd be more than willing to dive in and figure out the details and do the swap, if possible, on the blue LED. |
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Posted: 1/1/2020 8:59:20 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By txdx: LEDs will always be fairly broad and the min/max specs in the datasheet are only a starting point. Thorlabs does a better job calling out the FWHM spectral width. I think I found a spectral curve before purchasing it but in any case, I got the MT51060-IR LED from Digi-Key and the LED1070L from Thorlabs and was able to compare the two. See below. The Thorlabs LED has a narrower spectral output. The LED1070E has a wider output than the LED1070L and would probably be more comparable the LED from Digi-Key, just eyeballing the curves. https://i.imgur.com/jD5uvG6.png LED1070L https://i.imgur.com/qyJidzY.png MT51060-IR Gen 3 NV becomes blind pretty quickly much past 880-900nm. The photocathode in Gen 3 devices is made from GaAs and GaAs, as a material, becomes transparent past 880-900nm. The MCP is located behind the photocathode and normally cannot be seen as GaAs is opaque at visible wavelengths. Under 940nm illumination, it's transparent and it's possible to see into the tube and see the MCP behind the photocathode. The forward voltage of blue/white LEDs is roughly 3V at typical forward currents whereas an IR LED, especially a ~1060nm IR LED, will be around 1.2V. As an arbitrary example, if the blue LED sees a forward current of 100mA (Vf=3V) from a 5V source, the required resistance is 20 ohms. Putting in an IR LED (Vf=1.2V) instead with that same resistor and supply voltage will result in a forward current of 190mA, way in excess of the 100mA maximum. I don't know how Streamlight manages their current limiting. Probably a bit more involved than a resistor since the flashlight has a built in switching converter. Replacing the IR LED would be the safest bet. I'm not about to open up my Sidewinder to find out but if anyone wants to send me one, I'd be more than willing to dive in and figure out the details and do the swap, if possible, on the blue LED.
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FL, USA
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Posted: 1/2/2020 10:00:57 AM EDT
[#40]
I looked at the a couple of reviews on the sionyx and it looks like a mostly nope. Might be something on a full moon night or in ambient urban light.... I saw homemade setups made from camcorders that look like they might work better....
Ammiright? |
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Posted: 1/2/2020 10:13:21 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By urbanredneck:
I looked at the a couple of reviews on the sionyx and it looks like a mostly nope. Might be something on a full moon night or in ambient urban light.... I saw homemade setups made from camcorders that look like they might work better.... Ammiright? @urbanredneck |
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USA
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Posted: 1/2/2020 11:08:22 AM EDT
[Last Edit: mickdonaldson]
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By urbanredneck:
I looked at the a couple of reviews on the sionyx and it looks like a mostly nope. Might be something on a full moon night or in ambient urban light.... I saw homemade setups made from camcorders that look like they might work better.... Ammiright? Ask yourself: "Will I literally be shot in the face for using supplemental IR when needed?" If the answer is no, you get a heck of a lot of performance for $300-$400 (depending on sales). If you need a great image without help in that band above 0% to ~50% - look elsewhere. |
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USA
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Posted: 1/2/2020 11:12:52 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By txdx:
Thorlabs LEDs are legit. Same goes for Thorlabs in general. Probably spent >$50k with them over the years. Gen 3 NV does not really see the actual 940nm component of 940nm LEDs or anything longer wave than that. LEDs are very broadband sources and a 940nm LED will emit lots of energy below 940nm. Have been able to image the MCP through the photocathode with a 940nm source. That just shows the photocathode is transparent and and not intercepting any energy at these longer wavelengths. Would recommend this 1060nm LED for experiments. Very bright with a Sionyx camera and all but invisible with Gen 3 NV unless looking right into it. No reason one could not replace one of the T-1-3/4 in a Streamlight Sidewinder with one of these. If replacing the blue or white LEDs, the current limiting resistor will probably need to be adjusted. Forward voltage of IR LEDs is way lower than blue or white (same thing) LEDs. |
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Posted: 1/2/2020 5:29:48 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mickdonaldson: 0% Illum (where everyone needs IR help) = awesome. Above that, to approximately 1/2 Moon (or equivalent man made level) w/o help = Useless to Not Great, depending on exact level. 1/2 Moon to Full Moon (or equivalent man made level) = Good to Awesome. Ask yourself: "Will I literally be shot in the face for using supplemental IR when needed?" If the answer is no, you get a heck of a lot of performance for $300-$400 (depending on sales). If you need a great image without help in that band above 0% to ~50% - look elsewhere. If you need NV for duty use, hopefully your department/agency is providing it for you instead of expecting you to buy it. Can't explain how impressed I am with the Aurora. Plus getting duals for $600, can't be beat. |
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Posted: 1/2/2020 5:39:00 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mickdonaldson: 0% Illum (where everyone needs IR help) = awesome. Above that, to approximately 1/2 Moon (or equivalent man made level) w/o help = Useless to Not Great, depending on exact level. 1/2 Moon to Full Moon (or equivalent man made level) = Good to Awesome. Ask yourself: "Will I literally be shot in the face for using supplemental IR when needed?" If the answer is no, you get a heck of a lot of performance for $300-$400 (depending on sales). If you need a great image without help in that band above 0% to ~50% - look elsewhere. |
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Posted: 1/2/2020 8:56:31 PM EDT
[#46]
quick comment related to the Fandy IR flashlights and battery draining.
I received my new Fandy late last week and have confirmed that I have not had a battery drain with my specific unit. Not sure what this says overall about the Fandy’s other than it’s a crap shoot from batch to batch. |
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USA
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Posted: 1/3/2020 9:10:51 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tranzformer: I would second this. mickdonaldson nailed it. For most of us, NV is a toy in many ways and for hunting. If you need NV for duty use, hopefully your department/agency is providing it for you instead of expecting you to buy it. Can't explain how impressed I am with the Aurora. Plus getting duals for $600, can't be beat. I actually bought mine for "Duty Use"... It's just that my "Duty" (bursting fantasy bubbles here, LOL) is as a US Civilian in a rural, low crime area, to investigate anything on a lot of wooded acreage of the *highly unlikely* two-legged variety. In the *highly unlikely* event that that happens - the odds of running into a "peer" are probably below single digits - I'm not worried about supplemental IR. Spending $2K+ for that, didn't compute *for me*. But again, like you said, I've only "played" so far - no two-legged intruders trying to tip my cows, or steal my Mower, yet
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USA
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Posted: 1/3/2020 9:13:50 AM EDT
[Last Edit: mickdonaldson]
[#48]
Has *anyone* looked at someone wearing Green or WP analog's through the Aurora yet? What does it look like around the eyes? (Even a Styrofoam head wouild work). I know we've got owners who have both!
Edit: You know what? I'm an idiot - I have 3 hours of video at a shoot... DISREGARD! Analogs without Eye Cups, as seen from an Aurora (snaps from moving video). The very last one was the furthest away I had and it's the guy on the Left - on the Right it's a Green Marker Beacon/Chemlight: 
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Posted: 1/3/2020 3:02:42 PM EDT
[#49]
interesting
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Posted: 1/3/2020 3:11:54 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mickdonaldson:
Has *anyone* looked at someone wearing Green or WP analog's through the Aurora yet? What does it look like around the eyes? (Even a Styrofoam head wouild work). I know we've got owners who have both!
Edit: You know what? I'm an idiot - I have 3 hours of video at a shoot... DISREGARD! Analogs without Eye Cups, as seen from an Aurora (snaps from moving video). The very last one was the furthest away I had and it's the guy on the Left - on the Right it's a Green Marker Beacon/Chemlight: https://i.imgur.com/64AwxyK.jpg https://i.imgur.com/MXf2ywu.jpg https://i.imgur.com/LNrj2yZ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/IaGnHjt.jpg https://i.imgur.com/GYW2ZfR.jpg https://i.imgur.com/DFcRFJ1.jpg And to be clear, I don't mean anything by that. That is just what I would expect to see so I'm just not following. |
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