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Posted: 5/16/2018 1:38:22 PM EDT
[#1]
I think oil neutralizes primers
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Posted: 5/16/2018 3:05:52 PM EDT
[#2]
I suspect .. you are smelling the "carrier" solvent. ....n-Hextnae 75%
That said... I don't think you could readily remove "silicone" from your lubed cases... and that would mean slippery case to chamber conditions.. and thats not a good thing. |
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Posted: 5/16/2018 3:09:33 PM EDT
[#3]
Lanolin based lubes are better. One shot is poor quality.
You can make your own with 99% isopropyl and lanolin, both available on Amazon, or buy Dillon lube. |
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Posted: 5/16/2018 3:10:12 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think oil neutralizes primers 
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Posted: 5/17/2018 7:08:30 AM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
I use Hornady one shot and it smells exactly like silicone spray. Anyone use Silicone for case lube? https://www.hornady.com/reloading/case-care/lubes-and-cleaners/case-lubes |
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Posted: 5/17/2018 7:12:42 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
One shot is poor quality. If you you have used it and don't like it, fine. Say so. |
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Posted: 5/17/2018 9:09:27 PM EDT
[#7]
I tried some 100% silicon spray one time. After digging the stuck case out of my reloading die I went back to using the old rolling lube pad.
However now I just mix my own lanolin and isopropyl alcohol solution and make cheap case lube that will do thousands of cases. |
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Posted: 5/17/2018 10:28:58 PM EDT
[#8]
Lanolin and alcohol are also probably better for your health too. I reload in a small room. I try to keep aerosols down.
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Posted: 5/17/2018 10:30:14 PM EDT
[#9]
That is enough, remember which forum we're using.
I'm completely unimpressed with silicone as a lubricant. I'll use teflon, moly, 3 in 1, and even WD-40 first. |
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Posted: 5/18/2018 9:08:15 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It will when you don't want it to. It won't when you do want it to. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I think oil neutralizes primers |
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Posted: 5/18/2018 9:38:11 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That is enough, remember which forum we're using. I'm completely unimpressed with silicone as a lubricant. I'll use teflon, moly, 3 in 1, and even WD-40 first. One place where I find silicone to work really well is on my press deck and primer slides on my LnL. Ill spray it on, and let it soak in and completely evaporate, then polish it dry. Maybe its confirmation bias, but I very seldom have issues with sticking primer slides, and my press is very smooth. Dont trash talk OneShot. For rifle cases? Its a hard pass for me lanolin/iso or sizing wax is better everytime. However, for straight wall pistol cases running on a progressive? OneShot is great as it does lower the force needed to size a great deal. Another upside is that you dont have to tumble it off. Its doesnt take much, just a very light spray. |
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Posted: 5/18/2018 12:14:15 PM EDT
[#12]
Read the directions for One Shot. That will reduce the number of stuck cases.
Whether it works well or not, it's expensive compared to alternates. |
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Posted: 5/18/2018 5:43:15 PM EDT
[#13]
One Shot is excellent for pistol brass.
I think most would agree there are better options for rifle brass. |
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Posted: 5/18/2018 10:55:47 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Read the directions for One Shot. That will reduce the number of stuck cases. Whether it works well or not, it's expensive compared to alternates. |
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Posted: 5/19/2018 12:18:05 PM EDT
[#15]
Though I much prefer lanolin based lubes for bottle necked cases, I believe much of the ill will directed toward Hornady's One-Shot is by way of poor practices. Many hop between lubricants without cleaning their dies. Some don't use enough, misapply, or even fail to wait for the carrier to evaporate.
I haven't had any issues with One-Shot. For me it's more expensive and not as consistent as lanolin based lubes. It is very convenient, however. Clean the sizing die thoroughly with a degreaser then condition it by spraying One-shot into the die. If you have the One-shot gun cleaner and lube just use that. I won't say you won't get a stuck case. There are too many variables that I can't account for. What I will say is that if you do get a stuck case with it, examine your practices and/ or your equipment. As for silicone... it's not a good high pressure lube and is as difficult as lanolin to remove. I'd move on to something else. |
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Posted: 5/19/2018 2:09:11 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
As for silicone... it's not a good high pressure lube and is as difficult as lanolin to remove. I'd move on to something else. It is far harder than lanolin to remove. As in I do not bring silicone into my wood and metal shop for use. The only silicone in the place is a tiny bottle of 'Fish Eye Eliminator' that is 100% silicone. I will NOT spray with eliminator added. I will brush a barrier layer on and then throw away everything that was touched. At a large EW plant I worked at for many years we would not allow 'Silicone Heat Sink Paste' in the building. It destroyed an over $100,000 cleaning sytem when someone tried to clean a heat sink for re-use. |
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Posted: 5/19/2018 2:37:45 PM EDT
[#17]
Silicone is good for sealing tent seams & fish aquariums .......... i'm leaving it off brass and reloading stuff.
I made the mistake of trying a wonderlube on a bunch of guns years ago. (it says guns in the uses) One of the worst disasters ever it turned into varnish gumbo. I stick with tried and true stuff keep things boringly effective now. |
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Posted: 5/19/2018 4:47:25 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Silicone is good for sealing tent seams & fish aquariums .......... Especially in salt water tanks. Many of them are incredibly sensitive. |
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Posted: 5/20/2018 5:02:13 PM EDT
[#19]
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Posted: 5/23/2018 5:37:14 PM EDT
[#20]
I don't think Hornady puts any silicone in the One Shot, silicone is not for metal on metal under high pressure I will squeeze out.
So will a lot of other things, if it contains lanolin it's usually good to go. Reason some have problems with one shot is they don't get the lube on the whole case, they spray 2 sides while the cases sit in a box and call it good. A little finger smearing won't kill ya right before you ram the case up the die. |
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Posted: 5/24/2018 9:29:03 AM EDT
[#21]
I've tried just about every case lube on the market.
What I found to be the best/cheapest lube is plain old non stick cooking spray (butter flavor for extra pleasure). Seriously though. A couple short sprays into a gallon bag and spread it around so it coats the sides of the bag. Put your brass in and mix it around for a few minutes. I have never had a single case get stuck in my resizing die and the amount of effort needed is better than any other product I've tried. Once I'm done, I use a towel to wipe off most of the cooking spray and either throw it back in my dry tumbler for 20 minutes or just call it good. It is also the fastest way to lube your brass and saved me a ton of time. I've been doing this for a couple years now and I've never had a single problem. Check it out! |
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Posted: 5/27/2018 8:30:53 AM EDT
[#22]
Dillon lube form the squirt bottle. No propellants or other agents needed to make it work.
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