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NV, USA
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Posted: 11/28/2023 10:59:30 PM EDT
I’ve looked in the tutorials and found nothing about shotshell reloading.
Is there a manual I could buy? And a few questions 1. Can a plastic shell be reloaded? 2. If so how many times? 3. How difficult frustrating is it? Thanx in advance for the help!!! |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 11/29/2023 12:02:52 AM EDT
[Last Edit: rg1]
[#1]
Lyman’s Shotshell Reloading Manual is perhaps the best. Other data is available on-line. Unlike pistol and rifle reloading you HAVE to use the exact components listed. Use the exact hull, wad, shot charge, powder charge, and primer listed. No working up or down and you will stay safe. Reloading target and field loads are easy but I dislike trying to load buckshot or slugs. I’ve only used Mec presses. I have the Mec Sizemaster. The cost of equipment and $50 a 25 pound bag of shot, expensive primers takes the fun and cost savings away today. I like the Remington Gun Club, Premier, and STS hulls for easy loading. I do like the ability to load Shotshell but haven’t loaded any since price increases. Get the Lyman Manual for learning the process!
You’ll get 5-6 loads with a plastic 6 or 8 petal hull or until the mouth splits. |
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Posted: 11/29/2023 1:39:33 AM EDT
[#2]
I also like the Lyman manual.
Here is another link to some additional ones in case you find any in there that are useful. https://www.ballisticproducts.com/Manuals/products/16/ |
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Posted: 11/29/2023 1:40:36 AM EDT
[#3]
Originally Posted By Mobilty6: I've looked in the tutorials and found nothing about shotshell reloading. Is there a manual I could buy? And a few questions 1. Can a plastic shell be reloaded? 2. If so how many times? 3. How difficult frustrating is it? Thanx in advance for the help!!! There are wads for straight wall and tapered wall hulls. Use published load data. 2. I have sad hulls that have been loaded until the crimps wore out, some probably 6 or 7 times. 3. Not frustrating once the press is set up. A well worn MEC Grabber is frustrating, my other two are not. Mainly I have to watch what I'm doing and not tip the shot and powder bottles over backwards while I'm fiddling with something. I load 12 gauge on a RCBS Grand now, and there's no doubt it's better than the Grabber. Still possible to dump shot if I'm not paying attention. My shotgun loading bench is a 6 foot long tray.  |
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Posted: 11/29/2023 1:43:30 AM EDT
[#4]
Originally Posted By Mobilty6: I've looked in the tutorials and found nothing about shotshell reloading. Is there a manual I could buy? And a few questions 1. Can a plastic shell be reloaded? 2. If so how many times? 3. How difficult frustrating is it? Thanx in advance for the help!!! Very important to know what Hull you are loading so you can use the correct data. Shotgun hulls are different than brass cases where the headstamp isn't critical. 1. Yes 2. 4-5 times or until the petals crack and won't crimp correctly. 3. No harder than metallic reloading, just some things are different. Note due to the high price of shot, it's hard to load for less than factory shell. Where the saving come in is on buckshot or slugs. Get the Lyman book and read it, that's your first step no matter how anxious you are to get going. |
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Posted: 11/29/2023 8:27:00 AM EDT
[#5]
As mentioned,
Real cost savings is in specialty loads. I do quite a bit of waterfowl and predator hunting. 20ga buckshot and bismuth, 12ga bismuth and tungsten. I also dabble in .410 |
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Posted: 11/29/2023 8:28:00 AM EDT
[Last Edit: WeimaranerDad]
[#6]
Originally Posted By Mobilty6: I’ve looked in the tutorials and found nothing about shotshell reloading. Is there a manual I could buy? And a few questions 1. Can a plastic shell be reloaded? 2. If so how many times? 3. How difficult frustrating is it? Thanx in advance for the help!!! 1. Yes. The best empty hulls to use are : A. Remington “gun clubs” * B. Winchester AA’s *. that term refers to any of the following:  Attached File Attached File Attached File2. Until they split or crack usually at the crimp fold or the primer hole is so like wollered out it will no longer hold a new primer 3. The frustrating thing for me using Mec 9000’s is the primer drop:  Attached FileThe primer drop tube is circled in blue along with the hole in the shelllplate it is supposed to drop into. If the primer lands cockeyed in that hole or even upside down, then you can have real issues which snowball from there. A primer-less hull spills powder all over. Plus there is a “pawl” of sorts that moves or rotates the shellplate one station over. If it encounters any kind of resistance, it will like disconnect itself and go SPROINGGGG!!! And if you are not paying attention, it is possible for the shellplate to index over one station, so if you are not paying attention, you can dump shot into a hull with no wad. Or you can dump shot at the station with no hole and little pellets go everywhere and further jam up the works. And one of the places they can land in is between the collet’s fingers. That will keep the brass bases from being resized properly. I circled the resizing collet in red. It is possible for the collet to snap up against the shellplate and cause the primer to flip. Both if my Mec 9000’s were bought used. The first one was in 12 gauge, and is not nearly in tune as the one in 20 gauge. The dude I bought the 20 gauge off of….his garage was immaculate. A place for everything and everything in its place. You could eat off the floor. So that 20 gauge machine just chuggs right along, no issues. Here is video from the Power Factor Show guys on shot shell reloading. It is 30 minutes long: https://youtu.be/x2K-p7PNBbA?si=bAGWr97t3RWik7P9  Episode 77 - Shotshell Reloading |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 11/29/2023 8:36:34 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Bladeswitcher]
[#7]
Shotshell reloading isn't like metallic cartridge reloading. You have much less flexibility to try different things or develop loads for shotshells, nor is there much need to. You don't load shotshells to increase accuracy as you would with rifle or pistol cartridges. It's a shotgun after all. You load shotgun shells in hopes of saving money. The goal is reliable ignition and chamber fit. Other folks load to get combinations they can't find easily from commercial sources (light 3/4 or 7/8 ounce skeet loads for 12 guage, for example). The cost savings is marginal for common gauges and loads. Where you're likely to save money is with the smaller gauges (factory 28 gauge and .410 shells are really expensive) and with specialty/hunting loads.
I've not found the books (Lyman) all that useful. What is useful is the instructions for your specific reloader and the recipes provided by the powder companies. Each powder manufacturer provides recommendations/combinations that specify not only powder but primer, hull and wad. Follow these to the letter. That's not to say load development isn't a thing, but again, the lane you can play in is much narrower than when loading bullets. Most of what you need to know can be found online at sites like these: https://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/index.aspx https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-data-center?rdc=true&type=55 Originally Posted By Mobilty6: And a few questions 1. Can a plastic shell be reloaded? 2. If so how many times? 3. How difficult frustrating is it? 1.) Of course. That's just about the only option. You'll soon learn which hulls to keep and which ones to pitch. 2.) five to eight. 3.) It can be extremely frustrating, but once you get your procedure down it's not bad. Dropping shot all over you reloading room can be really frustrating. Also, getting good crimps can give you fits sometimes. |
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Posted: 11/29/2023 8:39:40 AM EDT
[Last Edit: WeimaranerDad]
[#8]
Just to clarify on the Remington “gun clubs” designation…
That is like saying the word Formica for any laminate countertop . Or calling it Corian for any type of solid surface material. Supposedly, those 3 Remington hulls I pictured above are all interchangeable with respect to loading data. Supposedly. I have not reloaded any Remington hulls whatsoever. So far I have stuck with just Winchester AA’s in both the 12 and the 20. Here is a pic of my current shotgun reloading “bench”:  Attached FileIf you look closely, those are cookie sheets that the presses are bolted through or mounted to. That is to catch any loose bird shot. While not as painful as stepping barefoot on a lego, a single piece of shot in your heel will get your attention. EDIT: The reloading cost calculator can be found here: https://ecsc-skeet.com/linked/shotshell_reloading_cost_calculator.htm I am saving about 4 to 5 bucks a box versus factory 12ga Winchester AA’s….if I use commercial shot. If I use my home made bird shot, that knocks off about $3.43 off a box of 25 . (25 pounds of shot in a bag. 16 ounces in a pound, so 400 ounces in a bag. Locally shot is around 50 or 55 bucks a bag) That calculator website will also factor in the cost of your reloading press and tell you how many shells you have to crank out before you break even. |
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Posted: 11/29/2023 11:39:24 AM EDT
[Last Edit: chumly2071]
[#9]
Couple things I'll add:
primers can be (slightly) different in diameter between US and Euro suppliers, and also the hulls. Often, if you use a Euro in a US hull, it can swage the primer pocket out enough to where you can only use euro primers in those hulls in the future (assuming you reload them again) whatever press you get, make sure you have crimp starters for 6 and 8 point crimps. They vary depending on hulls you pick. I typically load Remington or Rio (Euro) hulls. They take different components for their recipes. Most of my locally available (cheap/free) are Rios these days. Ballistic products has some load data books for the Euros, and there are Euro reloading sections on a couple of the shotgun forums. |
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Posted: 11/29/2023 1:03:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bdicki]
[#10]
shotgunworld forums
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Posted: 11/29/2023 4:02:43 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bdicki: shotgunworld forums More specifically this: https://www.shotgunworld.com/forums/shotshell-reloading.13/ |
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Posted: 11/29/2023 8:06:57 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By chumly2071: Couple things I'll add: primers can be (slightly) different in diameter between US and Euro suppliers, and also the hulls. Often, if you use a Euro in a US hull, it can swage the primer pocket out enough to where you can only use euro primers in those hulls in the future (assuming you reload them again) whatever press you get, make sure you have crimp starters for 6 and 8 point crimps. They vary depending on hulls you pick. I typically load Remington or Rio (Euro) hulls. They take different components for their recipes. Most of my locally available (cheap/free) are Rios these days. Ballistic products has some load data books for the Euros, and there are Euro reloading sections on a couple of the shotgun forums. Winchester primers are cylindrical and seat hard in Remington hulls. Remington primers have a radiused nose that works in Remington and Winchester hulls without high seating force. |
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Posted: 11/29/2023 11:35:13 PM EDT
[#13]
 Episode 78 - Shotshell Reloading Components |
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AR, USA
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Posted: 11/30/2023 9:18:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: wmagrush]
[#14]
Concerning the Remington hulls mentioned, they are interchangeable for a given published load. They are also one piece hulls, meaning no base wads. That gives better flexibility for powder charges with a given wad. Some shot wads have the tendency to catch and deform the edge of the powder cup on the base wad.
I have heard old wives tales that base wads will ‘shoot loose’ if reloaded. This goes back to the days of paper hulls. I have not seen that in 40 + years, nor any friends that reload, on plastic hulls. I reload a specific 24 gram shell at around 1320 fps, used in competition for Olympic style trap and skeet. Today it doesn’t save money, just assures a supply of ammo. The machine used is a MEC 9000G. It’s a manually operated progressive machine, and easier to recover from a missed primer in the cycle than a hydraulic operated unit. For load data always cross check between powder and wad manufacturers. For volume loading I use 8# canisters of Red Dot, Clay Dot and Promo, all made by Alliant. Another advantage of the 24 gram loads (7/8 oz), saves on lead costs and work as well on the sporting clays. |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 11/30/2023 9:30:20 PM EDT
[#15]
I have mec 650s in 12, 20, 28, .410.
I really only do 28s and 410, as it is most cost effective. 12 Ga, not so much, if you are doing dove/skeet loads. |
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Posted: 11/30/2023 9:47:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FB41]
[#16]
I have 5 600 Jr. presses (12, 16, 20, 28, .410).
The only ones that save any real money are the 16, 28 and .410; the 12 and 20 save a tiny bit, but really not that much. The real advantage to ANY shotgun press is the ability to have ANY type of shotshell ammo, WHEN you want it or need it. Ballistic Products and Precision Reloading are 2 of the best sources of shotgun loading information and components on the web. Lyman's Shotshell Loading book (mentioned above) is a great resource for beginners. |
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NV, USA
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Posted: 12/1/2023 3:52:31 AM EDT
[#17]
Thanks for the info everybody.
I bought a Lee press about a year ago just to have something jic . I have bought the Lyman reloading book so I should get it mid week Next week. Out of curiosity what kind of primer is used ? I primarily use cci stuff. Again thanks for the help |
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Posted: 12/1/2023 6:26:53 AM EDT
[#18]
Originally Posted By Mobilty6: I’ve looked in the tutorials and found nothing about shotshell reloading. Is there a manual I could buy? And a few questions 1. Can a plastic shell be reloaded? 2. If so how many times? 3. How difficult frustrating is it? Thanx in advance for the help!!! As mentioned above the Lyman book is a great place to start. 1st question I have is: What are you loading them for? Skeet/Trap/sporting? I know nothing about hunting loads. 1. Any tapered hull (STS, Gun Club, Nitro, AA's) can be loaded with the same recipe. Straight wall hulls (federals, RIO's, fiocci's) are the other option. I like tapered hulls because they take less powder for the same velocities. 2. I load hulls as long as they'll hold shot and the primer won't fall out. Up to 20+ times in some cases. 3. The hardest part is finding components. I shoot a lot of skeet and sporting clays / FITASC. For skeet, I load 3/4 oz at about 1200 fps. For Sporting, I load 1 oz at the same velo. Find a load you like and stick with it. I have a Dillon SL-900 and, like everything Dillon, it's fantastic. Bought it used from a guy on Shotgun forums. Feel free to reach out to me with any questions you have. I'm not an "expert" but I've done my share of clays loads over the years and started on a MEC 600jr.   
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Posted: 12/1/2023 9:16:27 AM EDT
[Last Edit: AeroE]
[#19]
Originally Posted By Mobilty6: Thanks for the info everybody. I bought a Lee press about a year ago just to have something jic . I have bought the Lyman reloading book so I should get it mid week Next week. Out of curiosity what kind of primer is used ? I primarily use cci stuff. Again thanks for the help One size primer is available. Go back to read my comment about the difference between Remington and Winchester primers. Remington are the only primers with a radiused nose that I have noticed. |
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Posted: 12/1/2023 9:39:06 AM EDT
[Last Edit: johnh57]
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mobilty6: Thanks for the info everybody. I bought a Lee press about a year ago just to have something jic . I have bought the Lyman reloading book so I should get it mid week Next week. Out of curiosity what kind of primer is used ? I primarily use cci stuff. Again thanks for the help What primer you use will affect pressure. You have to stick to the recipe you are loading. They are all "209" size primers but every brand has different brisance. You can't just swap a cci primer in for a recipe that calls for a winchester 209. European made primers - fiocchi, cheddite, etc tend to be bit larger diameter than American primers federal, cci, winchester, Remington. They can be harder to seat the first time-especially in Remington hulls. Once you've loaded a hull with a euro primer it may not work to go back to American primers as they can be loose in the hull and fall out. As said above shotshell is loaded to tested recipes. You can't swap wads, powder, primers, or hulls as you have no idea what you've done to pressure. As difficult as components are to come by today it's hard to find what you need to load to a recipe. Someone mentioned loose base wads- early versions of the winchester aahs hulls had issues with loose base wads. They changed the design slightly and it hasn't been an issue. I've seen photos on shotgunworld of euro hulls with displaced base wads. Most powder manufacturers have load data on line. They will test many different hull, wad, shot weight, and primer combinations. I like the powder mfgs data, I can sift through it and generally find a recipe for components I have or can get. |
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Posted: 12/1/2023 10:20:22 AM EDT
[#21]
A couple years ago I managed to find a way to continue loading 12 gauge birdshot very cost effectively.
A buddy alerted me to a local bridge that was being deconstructed. It had some sort of counterweight that was full of clean shot. Everything I have measured puts it into the #7 to #7.5 shot size which will work great for shooting trap. I bought something like 400 or 500 lbs dirt cheap, so I'm pretty well set for a good long time. |
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Posted: 12/1/2023 10:33:32 AM EDT
[Last Edit: WeimaranerDad]
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mobilty6: Thanks for the info everybody. I bought a Lee press about a year ago just to have something jic . I have bought the Lyman reloading book so I should get it mid week Next week. Out of curiosity what kind of primer is used ? I primarily use cci stuff. Again thanks for the help You should really watch the two videos I posted. Whatever the recipe says for primer, powder, wad, shot payload, hull , etcetera, that is what you stick to. AND HERE IS WHY: Max pressure for a shotgun shell is 11,500 psi Max pressures for a 9mm case is in the 30,000’s . Hodgdon has a reloading data center: https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/ Click on the shotgun tab. Then work your way down the list of options. Then hit update. The website will spit out a recipe that looks like this and specifies the wad and primer used AND the powder charge weight:  Attached File Attached FileEDIT: those two pics say “out of stock” because I picked Clays powder which Hidgdon is no longer making, but I still have 10 plus pounds of it. |
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Posted: 12/1/2023 2:15:25 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mobilty6: Thanks for the info everybody. I bought a Lee press about a year ago just to have something jic . I have bought the Lyman reloading book so I should get it mid week Next week. Out of curiosity what kind of primer is used ? I primarily use cci stuff. Again thanks for the help Different from Metallic reloading, repeating what I already posted. It has loads for specific hulls and calls out the primer used. Don't be in a hurry, educate yourself and follow the data. 
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NV, USA
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Posted: 12/1/2023 10:07:32 PM EDT
[#24]
I’ll be reloading for sport
Thanx for the info |
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NV, USA
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Posted: 12/1/2023 10:11:22 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AeroE: One size primer is available. Go back to read my comment about the difference between Remington and Winchester primers. Remington are the only primers with a radiused nose that I have noticed. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AeroE: Originally Posted By Mobilty6: Thanks for the info everybody. I bought a Lee press about a year ago just to have something jic . I have bought the Lyman reloading book so I should get it mid week Next week. Out of curiosity what kind of primer is used ? I primarily use cci stuff. Again thanks for the help One size primer is available. Go back to read my comment about the difference between Remington and Winchester primers. Remington are the only primers with a radiused nose that I have noticed. Totally understood. I will wait for my Lyman book and adhere to it completely |
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Posted: 12/2/2023 12:53:53 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mobilty6: Totally understood. I will wait for my Lyman book and adhere to it completely 
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IA, USA
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Posted: 12/2/2023 3:45:07 AM EDT
[#27]
ballistic Products load data mainly deals with straight wall Euro hulls. Skip it unless you plan on buying stuff from them. Here is one thing most people will not tell you. If you are using a load that is in the 8K psi range you can swap around any component and still be safe.
Also Federal stopped making their gold Medal hulls. They are now being made by Remington and are now the exact same hull as the nitros but maroon. So if you follow the rule of the exact load use only you will not be able to use any of the wads as the new hulls are a compression formed tapered design. And they are marked as a HOA hull |
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Posted: 12/5/2023 5:27:13 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Chukar: As mentioned, Real cost savings is in specialty loads. I do quite a bit of waterfowl and predator hunting. 20ga buckshot and bismuth, 12ga bismuth and tungsten. I also dabble in .410 Where do you get your bismuth and tungsten shot? I haven't reloaded shotgun since the mid 90's, but recently picked up an old Pacific 266. Most of my shotgunning these days in for ducks. |
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Posted: 12/5/2023 6:40:49 PM EDT
[#29]
I loaded a metric shitload of shotshells on dad's old Pacific DL155 when I was a kid.
About to send it off to my brother and his kids. |
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Posted: 12/5/2023 9:11:36 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 1Andy2: I loaded a metric shitload of shotshells on dad's old Pacific DL155 when I was a kid. About to send it off to my brother and his kids. I got a couple of old Baers, a pre 105 and 155 a while back. The 155 had a set of 28 gauge dies with it that I sold for what I paid for the whole lot, and I got about 100 pounds of shot, several hundred primers, a few bags of wads, and several garbage bags of empties. Problem is, now I’ve got all this crap stacked up everywhere and I haven’t even started loading yet. I grew up loading on my best friend’s grandfather’s 266 back in the 90s. We loaded a lot of shells on that thing. We are lucky we did not blow ourselves up with our “add a little extra powder for a magnum load“ attempts at duck loads. Only fired a couple before we realized that we were being really stupid and threw the rest of them away. 4 feet of flame and a mule kick from a 2 3/4 12 gauge isn’t cool. |
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Posted: 12/6/2023 7:27:16 PM EDT
[#31]
How do you like that Lee press?
I boxed up the old pacific 155 and shipping to my bro was going to be like 60 bucks. Just looked up a Lee Load-all 2... 65 bucks on midway or Natchez. I don't own much Lee stuff. But if that's a decent press, I might as well just buy him that for christmas and have it shipped to his door. |
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Posted: 12/6/2023 7:57:22 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wm69: Where do you get your bismuth and tungsten shot? I haven't reloaded shotgun since the mid 90's, but recently picked up an old Pacific 266. Most of my shotgunning these days in for ducks. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wm69: Originally Posted By Chukar: As mentioned, Real cost savings is in specialty loads. I do quite a bit of waterfowl and predator hunting. 20ga buckshot and bismuth, 12ga bismuth and tungsten. I also dabble in .410 Where do you get your bismuth and tungsten shot? I haven't reloaded shotgun since the mid 90's, but recently picked up an old Pacific 266. Most of my shotgunning these days in for ducks. Ballistic Products and Precision Reloading carry both, as well as load data. |
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Posted: 12/6/2023 7:58:49 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 1Andy2: How do you like that Lee press? I boxed up the old pacific 155 and shipping to my bro was going to be like 60 bucks. Just looked up a Lee Load-all 2... 65 bucks on midway or Natchez. I don't own much Lee stuff. But if that's a decent press, I might as well just buy him that for christmas and have it shipped to his door. I have used Load-All's for 12, 20 and 16 gauge. They work, but are a little finicky with hull length. My best loads on them was with Federal or Winchester hulls. |
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IA, USA
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Posted: 12/7/2023 5:52:33 AM EDT
[#34]
Don't buy him the Lee press unless you hate him.
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Posted: 12/7/2023 9:57:03 AM EDT
[#35]
Started out with a Lee Load All in 20ga.
Probably around 2K through it. Slow, somewhat accurate, and a PIA to change shot/powder/bushings. Only thing I use mine for now is 3.5" 12 gauge. |
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NV, USA
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Posted: 12/22/2023 9:57:44 PM EDT
[#36]
Ok
I got my Lyman Reloading manual. Sheesh had no idea that it was such a critical thing when it came to shotshell reloading. After reading the manual I totally get it now. Thanx to everyone who gave me input. It was all appreciated |
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Posted: 12/23/2023 12:53:10 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mobilty6: Ok I got my Lyman Reloading manual. Sheesh had no idea that it was such a critical thing when it came to shotshell reloading. After reading the manual I totally get it now. Thanx to everyone who gave me input. It was all appreciated Thanks for the update and good luck with your shotshell loading. |
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Posted: 12/23/2023 2:34:04 PM EDT
[#38]
My only contribution here is to reaffirm what was said in many posts, but always needs to be remembered:
Follow the load data exactly, do not swap components around because they should be "close". If you don't have the exact wad specified for the load you want, then either get them, or pick a different load that matches the components you have available. |
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Posted: 1/21/2024 5:03:15 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By M-60: As mentioned above the Lyman book is a great place to start. 1st question I have is: What are you loading them for? Skeet/Trap/sporting? I know nothing about hunting loads. 1. Any tapered hull (STS, Gun Club, Nitro, AA's) can be loaded with the same recipe. Straight wall hulls (federals, RIO's, fiocci's) are the other option. I like tapered hulls because they take less powder for the same velocities. 2. I load hulls as long as they'll hold shot and the primer won't fall out. Up to 20+ times in some cases. 3. The hardest part is finding components. I shoot a lot of skeet and sporting clays / FITASC. For skeet, I load 3/4 oz at about 1200 fps. For Sporting, I load 1 oz at the same velo. Find a load you like and stick with it. I have a Dillon SL-900 and, like everything Dillon, it's fantastic. Bought it used from a guy on Shotgun forums. Feel free to reach out to me with any questions you have. I'm not an "expert" but I've done my share of clays loads over the years and started on a MEC 600jr. https://photos.smugmug.com/Miscellaneous/n-D2LWW/Misc-1/i-jvRX9D3/0/e79fef7c/L/2019071209293300-7813B936-CBEA-40A2-8C6F-1BA4550470C8-L.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Miscellaneous/n-D2LWW/Misc-1/i-fX4r9FN/0/1446e328/L/F2790EE4-28DA-477C-9ED7-C461836A97FE-L.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Misc-II/i-6XpdcHR/0/b2b6fa98/L/MAMM0056-L.jpg I just wanted to duck in here to say that is quite the clever way to mark how many times your hulls have been fired/reloaded. I am about to send off an email to my gun club’s treasurer to order me an SL-900. The gun club has a dealer’s account with Graf’s . |
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TN, USA
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Posted: 1/21/2024 10:27:18 PM EDT
[#40]
For those of you saying follow the load data exactly, does that include shot type? If the data calls for say 1 1/8 oz of 7 1/2 shot, can you substitute #4 or 6 as long as it’s 1 1/8 oz?
I’m asking because there is Hodgon data for 800x and 1 1/8 oz loads. There is a separate buckshot section and 800x isn’t listed. According to the Lyman manual, 9 pellets of OO is exactly 1 1/8 oz. Would it be safe to use 8 or 9 pellets of OO, given the same wad, hull, and primer were used? |
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Posted: 1/22/2024 6:32:17 AM EDT
[#41]
I've never had any issue switching shot sizes. But I've only loaded 7's thorough 9's.
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Posted: 1/22/2024 6:48:51 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By WeimaranerDad: I just wanted to duck in here to say that is quite the clever way to mark how many times your hulls have been fired/reloaded. I am about to send off an email to my gun club’s treasurer to order me an SL-900. The gun club has a dealer’s account with Graf’s . It's a heck of a good press. Like every press, it has its quirks but once you get them figured out it'll really crank 'em out. I've had to replace the wad arm a few times since it seems to get bent (not enough to see, but enough that it crushes/splits hulls) somehow every now and then, but it's easy and Dillon has always made it right. I recommend that you get a low powder alarm. It's easy to get going and run out of powder. I've only done it once, that that was enough. |
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Posted: 1/22/2024 11:16:04 AM EDT
[#43]
I wouldn’t bother with it unless you’re reloading for 410, 28, or 16 ga.
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NC, USA
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Posted: 1/22/2024 11:23:03 AM EDT
[#44]
The automatic primer feeder on the mec's is horrible.. When i was reloading shotguns i had them and had the same issues. I tossed them aside and just manually put primer on instead..
besides that had zero issues with the 600 jr in 12 ga and 20ga i also purchased a 650.. I sold all my equipment when lead hit over $50.00 for 25lbs.. If i got back into shotgun reloading I would only do slugs and buckshot and buy the mec press made to do slugs on.. besides that i just purchase bulk boxes from Walmart for what i shoot trap or for training for Home defense. |
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Posted: 1/22/2024 11:53:25 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By beardog30: I wouldn’t bother with it unless you’re reloading for 410, 28, or 16 ga. Or 7/8 - 3/4 oz loads. You can't find 'em in stores. |
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Posted: 1/22/2024 6:00:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: WeimaranerDad]
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By M-60: Or 7/8 - 3/4 oz loads. You can't find 'em in stores. I was at wally world last night. I could not spot any Winchester AA’s in 12 or 20 gauge to save my life, but they did have a box or two in 28 gauge. They also had these remington shells in the usual green and yellow box. One ounce and a quarter at 1,300 fps and some change, 2.75” long. They wanted $18.73 for a box of 25. I thought that was nuts.  The Federal bulk pack of 100 is still $36+ I will still keep reloading. When the weather is better, I’ll fire up the shotmaker. |
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Posted: 1/22/2024 7:36:34 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By M-60: It's a heck of a good press. Like every press, it has its quirks but once you get them figured out it'll really crank 'em out. I've had to replace the wad arm a few times since it seems to get bent (not enough to see, but enough that it crushes/splits hulls) somehow every now and then, but it's easy and Dillon has always made it right. I recommend that you get a low powder alarm. It's easy to get going and run out of powder. I've only done it once, that that was enough. When I placed my order today, I had to order the case feeder / hull feeder too. That was separate. The Graf’s website didn’t specify. And neither did Dillon’s website, so I went ahead and ordered the 12 gauge feeder plate. Now, I am wondering if I should order the spare parts kit, too: https://www.dillonprecision.com/11154 Thanks for the other intell. |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 1/22/2024 8:14:52 PM EDT
[#48]
A used MEC 650 is a tank.
My 12 Ga MEC 650 is from 1972, and I can still get parts. I also have 20/28/.410 from later, but they all work great. I pretty much only reload 28/.410 now. Hard to save over factory on 12/20 |
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TN, USA
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Posted: 1/22/2024 11:12:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: molar]
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tommee-boy-72: ballistic Products load data mainly deals with straight wall Euro hulls. Skip it unless you plan on buying stuff from them. Here is one thing most people will not tell you. If you are using a load that is in the 8K psi range you can swap around any component and still be safe. Also Federal stopped making their gold Medal hulls. They are now being made by Remington and are now the exact same hull as the nitros but maroon. So if you follow the rule of the exact load use only you will not be able to use any of the wads as the new hulls are a compression formed tapered design. And they are marked as a HOA hull So you are saying that you can substitute HOA hulls for Gold Medal? My Lyman book has a ton of loads using gold medal hulls. |
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IA, USA
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Posted: 1/23/2024 12:26:11 AM EDT
[#50]
you will have to use wads and data for Remington STS/Premier gun clubs. The new HOA hulls are Remington hulls. The old GM hulls are no more.
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