Scratching my head here and having an issue setting the focus on the PVS-14. I've got the eye piece perfect.

When I put the objective lens in the body and screw in the retainer ring, there is not enough travel in or out to focus anything other than 6". There is only about 1/4 turn on the assembly.
I seem to be missing something but can't fathom what it would be.

I got the objective assembly from Night Vision Inc. The part number listed on the assembly is A3256364 and TNVC has it listed as A3256342.

Night Vision Inc states they are interchangeable with each other but I suspect they aren't and may have gotten the wrong part.

Photo of the lens from Night Vision Inc. Attached File

Nothing looks amiss at first glance. If you remove the retaining ring, do you get more travel? Reach infinity focus?

When inserting the objective lens into the housing there is only about 1/4 turn from engagement of the   large threads until it bottoms out. I dont want to force it further and break anything. When I just insert the lens and just allow the o-ring to hold it in place, the image is still blurry. When I slowly engage the threads to focus it, there is no improvement and the image stays blurry though the whole 1/4 turn.

This is my first time assembling a 14, but I've assembled several PVS-7s and PVS-5s. They all have had more than 1/2 of the objective lens to focus distance. When comparing that lens to a stock PVS-14, they look slightly different.

You should be able to bring the bottom of the lens right into the PVS-14 housing, part the flange ( so that it would hit the tube, if the tube was installed ).

If you can't then you probably have the infinity focus lock screwed out too far.

Check for set screws ( some have screws holding them) then screw the infinity lock ring all the way in, then screw the lens all the way in ( so it goes past the tube flange ) and then install the retaining thread ring inside the PVS-14 and screw the lens back out as far as it goes, then install a tube, focus for infinity on the stars or something, screw the infinity lock all the way out until it hits the lens, then back off about 10 degrees and (if they are installed ) you can set the screws back in if you like.

David

Problem solved. There were some burrs at the end of the infinity focus threads in the upper housing as it was new in the package. This was not allowing the lens to fully screw in. I used an exacto knife to trim away the burrs and used some dielectric grease to lubricate the threads and rubber o-ring. A few turns in and out to clean up the threads and the lens was able to screw all the way in.

I appreciate everyone's insight. This  is my first 14 assembly. I've assembled a ton of 7's and 5's and never had an issue like this. Will be posting some photos soon.

This is the WP Gen 2+ tube I scored from chosos in the EE that has the emission point needing to be fixed. I'll be sending it off next week and hope that black spot doesn't get any larger. I really dig the WP tube it seems to have better clarity than the green color. All in I have right  at $785 in this unit.

Attached File


Attached File

You have some debri in the eyepiece side. That tube was clear other than that ep. Try an air duster can.

I also hope they can fix the ep. Who did you end up going with and what is the cost?

I just did an initial assembly to verify everything was working. I'll be sending off the tube in a few days to get fixed. When I do the final assembly, I'll use an air can to make sure the lenses are clean.

TXDX offered to take a look at the tube for a nominal fee. If he doesn't think it can be fixed, I'll contact Jason at Ident Marking.

I am hoping this tube can be fixed, I didnt think WP tubes were as good as the hype. After playing with it  for a few minutes in the backyard, I am hooked.

It took me a solid week to get used to white phosphor as I was just so used to seeing in green through NV, best I could describe it made me a bit underwhelmed and almost confused initially.

After I got past that adjustment phase, I realized exactly what I had read was exactly what I had noticed. Sure, the eye picks up green better. But white phosphor (combined with my tube being filmless, I'm sure) REALLY brightens up the dark shadows I had with my prior green phosphor unit. Much less eye strain due to no bright green, which also helps me pick up on minute details better with this one.

Glad it went together. Pics of the tube look real good. I'll compare it against an L3 WP tube for shits and grins before trying the fix if you don't mind. Something tells me it'll be close and on a bang per buck basis completely blow away the L3 tube.

It is good in most lighting situations, but when it gets really dark, filmless still owns all. Is it worth 2-3x the price? That is the question each buyer must answer.

That's a bit of a generalization isn't it? I know there are some amazing filmless Gen3 tubes out there, with really high S/N but the competition to them in the same price range is typically pretty close, and if you factor in skyglow, they are pretty much equal.

It's probably closer to accurate to say that among what is being commonly offered on the street, Filmless Gen3's with S/N above 35:1 are presently at the apex, performance-wise.

@txdx I look forward to you comparison between the two tubes. I suspect this tube will absolutely be the best bang for the buck so to speak. The photos above are an overcast night with no lights other than the city glow and the street lights and houses across the field. The lit up area is my living room lights filtering through through the curtains. I am crossing my fingers that the EP point will be an easy fix and the blem wont be any larger than what is already there.

I just got some Intense 4G tubes at a price that would make you vomit. 2x-3x more? Nope nope nope. Actually paid less per tube for the WP than I paid for an Omni VII. Now, they aren’t new and thus have no warranty, but they’re ballllller.