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Posted: 11/5/2025 12:19:07 AM EST
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Originally Posted By NorthPolar: I wish, but nope. Usually on a MKIV or CP33 a mag and letting it cool Originally Posted By NorthPolar: Originally Posted By Glocked: How hot are you getting it? Any full auto fire? I wish, but nope. Usually on a MKIV or CP33 a mag and letting it cool There’s the grill paint option. There’s Stovebright aerosol stove paint too, it’s heat resistant up to 1000+ IIRC. The catch is, it’ll be rated to whatever temp you’re able to cure it at. If you’re using a household oven that maxes at 500+/- to cure it, that’s all it’ll be rated for. You’ll have more color options than the BBQ grill paint if that matters. Duracoat has some DIY high heat options too IIRC. I used regular Krylon camo on a 22 can when I rattle canned a gun a couple thousand rounds ago. Even with the can getting too hot to touch pretty routinely. It’s held up fine for me. ETA: Most auto parts stores will have high heat paints too marketed as header paint, engine paint, or something along those lines. |
Not everyone gets to be an astronaut, the world needs pole dancers too. ~Observer
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Originally Posted By GimmeLibertee: How did this happen if it’s only seen light use? Did you soak it in a chemical? Not a clue. The disassembled can was soaked for an hour in 5:1 distilled water/CLR to dissolve crud, but the entire can is stainless. The baffle stack, endcaps, and clamshells are perfectly fine, only the tube has the weird finish loss, which wasn't there after the CLR soak. Silencerco did have a couple contaminated batches of black oxide finish on sparrow tubes, so I'm wondering if that might be part of it. I have not soaked it again since, as I've only put another couple hundred rounds through it. Either way, it functions just fine so it's not worth a RMA over. |
| Mine is kind of the same. It is about 10 to 15 years old. I have no idea what i did to the finish. But the can lived in my truck for a while and got wet. The tube developed corrosion all over it. After that i just rattle canned it which worked well enought. Eventually the rattle can wore and i just stripped the paint off. Ended up just leaving it with a worn finish. Call it character. |
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Originally Posted By NorthPolar: Not a clue.  The disassembled can was soaked for an hour in 5:1 distilled water/CLR to dissolve crud, but the entire can is stainless.  The baffle stack, endcaps, and clamshells are perfectly fine, only the tube has the weird finish loss, which wasn't there after the CLR soak.  Silencerco did have a couple contaminated batches of black oxide finish on sparrow tubes, so I'm wondering if that might be part of it.  I have not soaked it again since, as I've only put another couple hundred rounds through it. Either way, it functions just fine so it's not worth a RMA over. The CLR is what did it. It’s known to attack finishes. The other parts don’t have a finish. I use CLR to clean all my steel rimfire suppressor parts except the outer tube for this reason. |
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https://duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/duraheat-2-0-high-temperature-coating?srsltid=AfmBOoqOqsKTIFwUYfrMEWi1SCskThSAmZkeWDGUlITMHExgIU247DL8 Or have it done in Cerakote. And yeah, CLR killed your finish. |
"All welchers should be removed from the EE".-Aimless
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Originally Posted By TGWLDR: https://duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/duraheat-2-0-high-temperature-coating?srsltid=AfmBOoqOqsKTIFwUYfrMEWi1SCskThSAmZkeWDGUlITMHExgIU247DL8 Or have it done in Cerakote. And yeah, CLR killed your finish. Silencerco will warranty the finish if I want to go that way, but it's incredibly expensive to ship anything hazmat up here to Alaska. I'd have to ship it to Seattle, put on a barge with a freight forwarder, etc. So it would end up around the same cost as having someone cerakote it locally. I'll likely just bbq paint it in the spring, it's not like I'm going to be shooting it much this winter as it's already subzero temps anyhow. |
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