

Posted: 8/3/2021 11:24:11 AM EDT
[Last Edit: PursuitSS]
I am building some new AR-15s and would like to finally make these components that always seem to look awful on any AR, look better:
It seems that no matter what vendor they came from, these components always look nasty. I'm tired of it. So, I'm taking action. I am thinking of using one of the following Rustoleum Engine Enamel colors (I'll test all three to see which color matches the specific AR I am building):
Do you guys have any better ideas, or do you think this is going to work? |
|
|
[Last Edit: rpoL98]
[#1]
|
|
|
[#2]
Thanks, but looking for something I can do myself out of a rattle can. Not looking to pay someone $150 (or more) to Cerakote 20 little pieces of steel.
|
|
|
[#3]
Duracoat or brownells Alumahyde, your current choice will not hold up.
|
|
|
[#4]
|
|
Can't never could 'til try came along.
|
[#5]
Yeah, rattle can doesn’t hold up for shit if you’re concerned about durability and it looking nice.
|
|
|
[#6]
|
|
|
[#7]
Originally Posted By Rorge-Retson: I am building some new AR-15s and would like to finally make these components that always seem to look awful on any AR, look better:
It seems that no matter what vendor they came from, these components always look nasty. I'm tired of it. So, I'm taking action. I am thinking of using one of the following Rustoleum Engine Enamel colors (I'll test all three to see which color matches the specific AR I am building):
Do you guys have any better ideas, or do you think this is going to work? View Quote The flat black engine enamel is a near perfect match for Aero ano color. I have used it on receivers and handguards and it is holding up well, but the parts were already black so that helps. If it wears, shoot it again. |
|
|
[#8]
The finish you see is mil spec. Not sure if you want to keep the mil spec look because putting a coat of paint on it will take away from that. If you're open to non mil spec parts there are tons of "improved" options with nitride finishes available.
|
|
|
[#9]
Norrells and KG are the best you can self-apply.
Needs an air brush and an oven. |
|
Preferred Pronoun: Space Lord Mutherfucker
|
[Last Edit: TGWLDR]
[#10]
Originally Posted By berkeleygiraffe: The finish you see is mil spec. Not sure if you want to keep the mil spec look because putting a coat of paint on it will take away from that. If you're open to non mil spec parts there are tons of "improved" options with nitride finishes available. View Quote This. Nitride will give you what you seek. As for port door covers.....milspec is all I know but I'm sure someone offers an aesthetically pleasing version. |
|
Can't never could 'til try came along.
|
[#11]
if you don't want to cerakote the parts in either armor black or graphite black, thee best thing you can do is just keep the parts oiled up
|
|
|
[#12]
engine enamel does ok for parts that never see contact with anything, are hardly ever touched, and never exposed to solvents. such as under the handguard.
otherwise, it's as everybody else has already said, it doesn't hold up. |
|
|
[#13]
No.
Yes. Brownells Alumahyde, Duracoat, or maybe even Avroe. |
|
|
[#14]
Do you have an air compressor? If you do, it’s cheap to get a spray gun at Harbor Freight, and some Durabake paint and do it yourself. POR high temp paint (Amazon) is good too. The bake on finishes are very durable and easy to work with. The small parts you’re mentioning are always fun to do in a contrasting color for a build. Most important of all they really protect against corrosion.
|
|
|
[#15]
Why not re-parkerize. I don’t think it’s too expensive to setup for small parts.
|
|
|
[#16]
Use whatever you like with a Preval sprayer. Just make sure you prepare your parts properly.
|
|
|
[Last Edit: Cynops]
[#17]
If you need something durable in a rattle can, I'd go with flat-black appliance epoxy paint, caliper paint or Seymour Engine Paint.
I've used alumahyde before, and while durable, it tends to have problems spraying smoothly, even if you do everything right (its a bit unpredictable in this respect). Some cans like to spit out globs randomly while spraying even with thorough shaking, so I wouldn't trust it for anything you want to look perfectly finished. The parts you listed are parkerized from the factory, so the finish is already a great base for paint - just degrease thoroughly before spraying. |
|
|
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2022 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.