I never had any luck with the Lee lube, always got leading.

Used a Lyman lube sizer for years with my cast 200 gr SWC's. Worked well.

Switched to Powder coating 2 years ago, and will never go back to the messy, smoky bullet lube. Sold my lube sizer and lube.

As a side benefit, with a properly powder coated bullet, there is no leading and you can use soft lead.

Where I learned to powder coat, http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?184-Coatings-and-Alternatives

Read the tacked threads at the top of the forum. Good luck

Lets really break this down in to a few parts.

Starting with Ebay lead, bank that its either range scrap or wheel weight lead, both of such will be too soft and needs to be tinned to increase the hardness of the lead.
note, if you are buying scrap lead, be dam sure of what you are buying.  Hence some scrappers will use weight weights with the heat too high during smelting, and this ends up with Zinc wheel weights melting in with the lead wheel weight; pretty much distorying the lead for casting purposes.

Now with the soft lead, there is  a couple of ways to attack the problem, but the easy way it to add about 1lb of lead free solder 95/5 to about 20lbs of the lead you have to bring it up to close to Lyman #2 lead. Walmart used to have 1lb reels of such for $10, but since the price has increased to $20, then just pick  up tin by the lb from rotor metals isntead.

https://www.rotometals.com/tin-metal/

Next, really need to slug the bore, but in regards to 45 cast bullets for 45 acp, you want them to be .4525~.453" after they have been sized.
If you are powder coating, then the coating will build up a standard cast bullet to over .453" so it will size back down .453.  If you are using alox, then may have to polish the mold out a touch, so you end up with a bullet in the .454" range that can be sized back down to .453" in the end.  To be blunt, in most production barrels and a cast bullet since the bores are slightly oversized to be begin with,  the barrel is going to shoot tighter with a .453" bullet than .452" bullet at any type of speeds.

Now lets talk about sizers.  Myself, will buy a lee sizer that is .452", then do a bit of internal polishing of it to bring it up to final dimension to size a bullet .4525" for match barrels.  If all you have is looser production bores, then internal polish the size up to .453" instead.

Hence if you are getting leading with an alox lubed bullet, it not due to the bullet not being alox lubed, but the bullet not sealing off the bore, the flame is able to get past the sides of the bullet as it moving down the bore, and this is where the lead is coming from isntead.

Granted that Powder coating bullets will end up with a lot less smoke, but if you want to keep on alox tumbling lubing bullets, there is a better mix to use.  Hence Alox, Johnson paste wax, and some mineral spirits at a mix of  45% alox, 45% Johnson paste wax, and 10% mineral spirits.  This will end up with just as good of a coat of lube on the bullet, but they will not be so sticky instead.

Touching on loading data, make sure you are using loading data for cast bullets, not jacked bullets.  Casted bullets will seal off to the chamber much faster, so it requires less powder to reach speeds.  If you are using jacket bullet data for cast bullets, you will be over pressure on every load you reloading, even starting with the min start load!!!!

Now, with a bullet sized to .453", do try to use a lee FCD carbine die with the bullet.  What will happen will be the sizer ring in the dies is going to end up resizing the bullet through the case walls back down to .452", putting you back to a leading problem since the bullet is not fully sealing off to the bore.

Moving on,  when loading with a cast lead bullet, you do not want a ton of jump to rifling on ignition.
So with the barrel in hand you are reloading, long load a bullet, and via slowly shorting the COAL in steps, get the COAL that once you have inserted the round into the chamber to touch the rifling off the bore, it's rim is just a touch shorter than the hood of the barrel.  And don't over do it with the bullet crimp.

If you are loading for a few 45 acps, then break out all the barrels, find the one with the tightest leade, and use it to determine the needed COAL for the loads instead.




Follow the above advice, and you will have loads that will tack drive if you do your part with finding the correct needed amount of powder to make the barrel sing.

I ran Alox for decades ,then 45/45/10 for years, and besides the ammo smoking more (limited to outdoors shooting since you would end up with black lunge if your try to run it indoors), never ran into problems with leading or accuircy.

Where PC comes in handy, is the reduces smoke, the added speed you gain from the coating, but the best part is with hard cast bullets, you can bring on the speeds to over 2K, without needing a gas check.

Now back to the lead you are using (which either more lube or PC coating is not going to solve the problem),
Short of WC ammo with a hollow base skirt that is going to flair out to hold the rifling when produced from pure lead/ not pushed that fast to begin with, would bank that that your biggest problem is just that the lead you have, is close to pure lead as well, and why you are having problems with it cast into standard bullets pushed to normal  ball ammo speeds.  Hence again, would tin 20lbs of it with 1lb of tin, should bring the hardness up to at least 14 or better, and use this lead to cast rounds to verify if the soft lead  is causing the leading and accuracy problems.

As for the extra coats of alox, all your doing is producing more smoke.
So in regards to alox lubing on the bullets, all you want is a light bronze coat on the bullets, and that more than enough Alox.

Hence the way I did it with either straight Alox, or 45/45/10 (which is better and does not leave that sticky surface) is to first tumble the bullets, run them through the sizer still wet, give them a small extra shot of the Alox again, give them another tumble , then set them out to dry.

Hell, if you are not pushing speeds, then just straight Johnson paste wax with a hint of mineral spirits works fine to tumble lube the bullets instead.

Because your loading to ball ammo speeds, and not reduce pure lead target bullet load speeds.

Drop your load down to around 3.4 grains of bullseye, and pure lead/soft  cast bullets will have not problems holding onto the rifling isntead.

Longer angle leade of a 9mm barrel,


While the normal shorter angle of a 45ACP leade isntead,