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Posted: 8/2/2018 2:37:40 PM EDT
[#1]
I have no specific experience on .44 magnum (but I'm interested, so definitely following this thread).
My general revolver loading experience lets me give partial answers to questions #1 and #2. I reload .38 spl for my .357 because I was given a few hundred .38 spl once fired cases and once fired .38 spl brass I usually cheaper than .357 brass. However, if I was starting from scratch I would have gone with nothing but .357 brass, and load some mild and a few hot. In the case of .44 magnum, you aren't going to save any money buying .44 special brass, so I'd just go ahead and plan to load nothing but .44 mag brass. As for the crimp, I have no experience with the die you mention, but I've been very happy with my Lee FCD for .38 special and .357 reloading. If I was loading for .44 I would plan to start with a Lee FCD in that caliber. |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 2:43:08 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
2. I've read that the Redding Profile Crimp die is a good "in-between" from a taper crimp to a roll crimp. However, It also seems that this die is only supposed to be used on cartridges that do not headspace on the case mouth. If I understand correctly, this would mean I should not use this die on the 44 special or magnum brass for my pistol. Is this correct? Would a factory crimp die (e.g., Lee) be a good or better option in lieu of a roll crimp. I’m aware that ‘to roll crimp or not to roll crimp’ is another whole subject. Revolver dies roll crimp with no limit as to the amount. A perfect taper crimp is applied to auto-loader rounds I prefer to seat and crimp in two different steps (thus why I employ Lee FCD dies). I believe some level of crimp is always desired for revolver cartridges, particularly heavy recoil cartridges. |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 3:01:04 PM EDT
[#3]
Aero..
Thanks for the input. My only experience with the FCD has been with auto loaders, so I assumed the revolver FCD would 'behave' similarly to the auto loaders dies, providing a solid crimp without the 'roll'. Yes, I fully plan on crimping (especially so for the 44 mag and/or 44 spl) due to the higher potential for setback of other shells in the cylinder. I just wasn't sure a roll crimp would be/was absolutely necessary for the 44 with light loads and thought the idea of the Profile die was interesting. |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 3:09:16 PM EDT
[#4]
I have used H110,2400,W231,HP38,Unique,&HS-6. using 240 grain cast Keith bullets I have gotten the most consistent results with HS-6 running 1100-1150 fps. this also worked well with powder coated 240 grain round nose flat point bullets. they fed mucho better in the leveraction.
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Posted: 8/2/2018 3:29:06 PM EDT
[#5]
I will not be casting bullets, so unfortunately, I will only be using FMJ or plated.
Thanks. |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 3:31:41 PM EDT
[#6]
I load h110 with 240 Hornady xtp for hunting.
Everything else get Win. 231 and a lead bullet. They can be 200-240 grains and whatever is cheapest. Just target loads. I have some 44 sp. brass, Rarely ever use it. I just load the 44 mag brass with a light charge of 231 and top it off with lead. Only issue is the forcing cone area will get some lead build up and powder residue. I use lead away patches for cleaning this area. Enjoy |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 3:39:20 PM EDT
[#7]
Vatopa, Thanks.
What's your starting load for the 231 in the 44 mag brass, if I may ask? |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 3:47:29 PM EDT
[#8]
I have a s&w 629 8 3/8 barrel..
Backup gun for deer hunting. For plinking/steel plates I use a 240 lead swc with 8 grains of Unique. Knocks down plates with force and doesnt kill you in recoil. Win231 wasn't as good as Unique and H110/Win296 recoil was way too much for a plinking load. my hunting load is a Win296 with 24.5 grs under a 200 gr remington hp. Best bullet i found to knocking deer down. The 240 are too much they zip right through a dear in a xtp or jhp. I never tried the LDSWC so i don't know how that would react I just use 44 mag brass.. I did find 44 spl brass at the range once but after dealing with 38/357 lead build up i just passed and use 44 mag brass. 44 mag brass doesnt seem to effect with the lighter spl loads... |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 3:53:24 PM EDT
[#9]
I don't know about plinking, but my hunting round is a 240 gr. Semi Jacketed Hollow Point over 24.7 grains of H110/WW296. This is a devastating round out of my Ruger Redhawk.
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Posted: 8/2/2018 4:05:03 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
Just acquired my first 44 Mag revolver. I have never reloaded for this round. I have plenty of experience with a dozen or so other calibers. I'd appreciate a little input. So... I've got to get a whole setup for reloading this caliber. It will be used for target/rec. shooting. I do not intend to feed it on a steady diet of magnum rounds. However, occasionally I may want to do just that. That said, a few questions: 1. Since I would be reloading mainly 44 special power level loads, would it be better to use 44 special brass or just use light loads in 44 magnum brass for all my reloading for this? Or is this a reasonable expectation? If I'm going to purchase a bunch of new brass, I'd rather not buy both, but will do so if that is the better route. 2. I've read that the Redding Profile Crimp die is a good "in-between" from a taper crimp to a roll crimp. However, It also seems that this die is only supposed to be used on cartridges that do not headspace on the case mouth. If I understand correctly, this would mean I should not use this die on the 44 special or magnum brass for my pistol. Is this correct? Would a factory crimp die (e.g., Lee) be a good or better option in lieu of a roll crimp. I'm aware that 'to roll crimp or not to roll crimp' is another whole subject. 3. What might be a good bullet type and weight for general plinking/target loads? FN? SWC? Plated? FMJ? 200gr? 240gr?? or?? 4. Any pet load combinations would be great. There's a metric ****ton of loads available, but would like to cut down on the experimental stage and get to a reasonable work-up/starting point. I would prefer W231 or W296 for powder, but have a limited supply of HS-6 on hand as well. I have a lot of standard primers, but would magnum primers be a necessary component with these powders? I'm sure some of my questions could spark a variety of other questions, so fire away if you feel inclined. Thanks! -ppknut Also you don't have to adjust dies for the short length is you only use mag cases. Thank me later. 2. Never used it. I use Hornady dies that I added a Lyman M die for expanding and a Lee FCD for crimping. Always seat and crimp in separate dies. 3. Home cast powder coated bullets do it all. If your buying, your wallet will decide. 4. Standard primers for light loads. I use 6.0 grs Trailboss with either a 240 or 300 gr home cast powder coated bullet. Light load, accurate, great plinker, you can let anyone shoot this load. I don't use W-231 any more as it burns too dirty for me. Never used HS-6, I'm sure there are loads for it out there. Full power loads use a magnum primer, H-110, and a firm crimp. The loading manuals are full of charges. |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 4:37:16 PM EDT
[#11]
I use 44 mag cases, win231/hp38, and 240s. I load lighter due to my Vaquero, but he beaty of manual actions, is powder charge doesn't matter as much. Also use those rounds in my Win94.
For my DE, I do stick with full power. |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 4:42:32 PM EDT
[#12]
You mentioned the perfect 3 powders for 44 Mag handloads.
WW231 for target loads HS6 for medium loads WW296 for Magnum loads Magnum primers for the WW296 loads, standard for the others. I can't remember the exact load from memory, but I "think" about 10 grains of HS6 in 44 Special cases or 12 in 44 Mag cases (with a 240-250 grain bullet) will get you a very good all around load of about 1000 fps. Refer to John Taffin's "Taffin Tests" for recommended loads. I shoot mostly cast bullets, the 250 grain Keith bullet is my favorite, it will work for everything from target loads to magnum hunting loads. May be too long and too blunt edged to feed in a levergun, I use jacketed soft points for that. http://www.sixguns.com/tests/tt44mag.htm I use the Lee Factory Crimp Die, it works well and is easy to apply a repeatable crimp. I take a marker and draw a reference line on top of the adjustment "knob". Screw it in until it contacts the case mouth, then add 1/2 a turn. 3/4 turn, etc. until you get the amount of crimp you want. Then I mark the loads with "3/4 crimp" and can repeat that next time. |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 5:08:29 PM EDT
[#13]
Excellent stuff there guys! Perfect!
Thanks a million. ETA: Now off to find brass, bullets, and order up some dies. |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 6:59:08 PM EDT
[#14]
NEVER USE LEE CARBIDE FACTORY CRIMP DIES WHEN LOADING Cast, Coated, Swaged, or plated bullets. The die is just like using a sizer die. And, it sized bullets down thus promoting problems like leading or stripping the plating/coating off the bullets.
Your best resource is a copy of the Lyman 50th Manual for handgun loading. If you used H110/Win 296 they are the same powder. And, Hodgdon states you should not reduce the max load more than 3 percent. Heed that advice. I would suggest that you consider the advice using HS 6 for midrange loads. I would suggest that you consider the advice on using HP38/Win 231 for mild loads. Always (as Dryflash related) use Magnum brass. No sense getting a carbon or lead build up after shooting a bunch of 44 special cases! Redding knows a helluva lot about dies and the profile crimp is more than adequate for heavy magnum loads! I love their Titanium Carbide Die sets. I think they are smoothest sizing dies on the market. The Redding Profile crimp is just fine. It does it's job just fine. As always (as others have mentioned) seat in one step and crimp in a separate step. I love the Sierra 180gr JHP charged with Win 296 is like shooting a laser beam accurate. As always do your own load work up. What is safe and accurate in one gun may not be in yours! |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 8:41:53 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
NEVER USE LEE CARBIDE FACTORY CRIMP DIES WHEN LOADING Cast, Coated, Swaged, or plated bullets. The die is just like using a sizer die. And, it sized bullets down thus promoting problems like leading or stripping the plating/coating off the bullets. Your best resource is a copy of the Lyman 50th Manual for handgun loading. If you used H110/Win 296 they are the same powder. And, Hodgdon states you should not reduce the max load more than 3 percent. Heed that advice. I would suggest that you consider the advice using HS 6 for midrange loads. I would suggest that you consider the advice on using HP38/Win 231 for mild loads. Always (as Dryflash related) use Magnum brass. No sense getting a carbon or lead build up after shooting a bunch of 44 special cases! Redding knows a helluva lot about dies and the profile crimp is more than adequate for heavy magnum loads! I love their Titanium Carbide Die sets. I think they are smoothest sizing dies on the market. The Redding Profile crimp is just fine. It does it's job just fine. As always (as others have mentioned) seat in one step and crimp in a separate step. I love the Sierra 180gr JHP charged with Win 296 is like shooting a laser beam accurate. As always do your own load work up. What is safe and accurate in one gun may not be in yours! H110 should not be reduced more than 3% less of the START load. The starting load on many listed loads are reduced more that 3% of max already. The 44 Magnum does not head space on the case mouth so a firm roll crimp works just fine. 44 Magnum cases. I use a max H110 load with a powder coated cast Keith 245gr SWC and magnum primer. Great shooting. Light loads get the same bullet over 9.0grs. of Unique. Great shooting all day. 44 Special. Wife gets the 44 specials with same bullet over 4.2grs of Titegroup. Accurate and a pussy cat. If you only want the magnum cases the lowest I was willing to go with the same bullet was 7.0grs of Unique and it was quite accurate and easy on the wife. Same firm roll crimp on all my loads. Lead is going to be cheaper and more accurate than the semi jacketed or FMJ. Look for Hi-Tek coated if your buying. Enjoy. |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 8:49:13 PM EDT
[#16]
I owned a Charter Bulldog and still have a BUNCH of .44 spl loaded using W231 and 240 grain LSWC bullets.
I now own a S&W 629 Mountain Gun and I prefer to use magnum brass for my loads. I also prefer magnum primers for all my loads as it simplifies the supply chain. MY loads, in magnum cases with LP-Magnum primers, are: Plinking- 5.3 CLAYS, 200 Berry's FMJ-FP Mid-range- 20.0 H110, Berry's 240 RN Hunting: 23.9 L'il Gun, Nosler 240 JHP I don't shoot .44 Spl much anymore, so it looks like I'll have a supply of those until about, oh... 2030 or so. 
I use a Lee FCD for crimping all bullets- never had an issue with it. |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 11:13:19 PM EDT
[#17]
My 44 mag FCD only crimps.
Revolver FCD's are different than auto pistol caliber FCD's. |
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Posted: 8/3/2018 10:48:45 PM EDT
[#18]
I'm a big fan of the 44 magnum and have been reloading it for decades
1. - I never use 44 special brass, 44 mag can be down loaded fine. 2. I prefer a roll crimp for all 44 loads, regular LEE, Hornady Dillon etc will work fine. I much prefer seating and crimping on 2 seperate dies. 3. 200rnfp or 240gr SWC coated from bayou, Missouri, or SNS 4. - 6.5gr win231 / 240swc is a nice mild load. 7.5 is a bit warmer but still mild. 970fps 10gr UNIQUE / 240-250 SWC warmer 1150fps'ish 24gr H110/win296 or 22gr 2400 240JHP for hunting this is a hot 1400fps load. punishing on both shooter and target. PS - "Silver rings !"  
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Posted: 8/4/2018 10:34:25 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm a big fan of the 44 magnum and have been reloading it for decades .....snip..... PS - "Silver rings !" "Them's washers!"
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Posted: 8/4/2018 11:20:02 AM EDT
[#20]
Use coated bullets. They'll do everything you want them to do except hunting and there will be no mess from lube or leading. They are only about 1 cent per bullet more than lead. Worth it IMO. Plated bullets won't have a crimp groove, they have a cannalure. I've had problems crimping them with heavy crimps for magnum loads. They either buckle the case because the case lengths vary or the mouth cuts into the plating. Seating and crimping in one step is very difficult with them without shaving off some of the plating.
Use Magnum brass. They can be loaded light or heavy and you won't have to adjust. You CAN seat and crimp in one step for revolver bullets with a crimp groove if you do it right. As an experienced reloader you probably know how. I don't see a need for a Lee FCD for revolver rounds especially with lead, plated or coated bullets. Most times it swages the bullet smaller. You don't have to crimp the really light loads but I do for a few good reasons: it holds onto the bullet longer to get complete ignition as pressure builds up, keeps the bullet from moving and makes loading them into the gun easier...there's no sharp edged case mouth to hang up on the cylinder edge. Just a very light crimp works well there. HP-38/W-231 for light loads. Alliant's 2400 for medium and heavy. H-110/W-296 for very heavy loads. I really like 2400 more than H-110. H-110 doesn't have much room for adjusting where as 2400 has a lot of room and doesn't require magnum primers. Wide variety of bullet weights and styles to choose from. For what you want to do (plinking, targets, steel, etc.) 200-240gr SWC would do well. You didn't mention what gun you have but if it has fixed sights they are factory sighted with a certain weight bullet. You'd have to figure out what it is and stick with that. They are usually near the middle to heavy end of the weight range. |
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Posted: 8/4/2018 11:57:51 AM EDT
[#21]
Try 9-10 grains Unique over a 240 grain bullet of your choice. Mid-level loads you can shoot all day. For occasional fun try 24.0 grains of 2400 under a 180 gr XTP.
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Posted: 8/4/2018 1:11:27 PM EDT
[#22]
Again the Lee FCD for revolvers (44 Mag) does not swage the bullet, it only crimps.
Posters are thinking about the Lee FCD for semi auto rounds. 45 ACP and 9mm. |
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Posted: 8/4/2018 4:11:59 PM EDT
[#23]
Dryflash,
I did decide to go with the Lee FCD for that reason, as well as the process of seating and crimping in two steps. I had a lot of trouble with a seat/crimp die for another caliber once and swore I'd never try to do a one-step again. I just couldn't get the one-step to work no matter how much I messed with the die settings. Ruined a bunch of brass 
Thanks! I haven't finished my research yet, but I haven't really found much in the way of published 'light' load recipes for the .44 Magnum casing given the bullet/powder combinations I'd prefer to use (i.e., Xtreme and/or Berry's plated 240's using W231). I just need a safe starting load to go from. I'll be starting to look at various coated bullets next to see if I'd go that direction. I'm not stuck on the plated style bullets, but I've got a lot of 231 and it'd be preferable to work-up using that powder. ETA? Is there any significant difference between bullets with diameters of .429 and .430? |
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Posted: 8/4/2018 6:06:58 PM EDT
[#24]
Pretty much any published load using Unique IS a light .44 mag load. If you want .44 Special level loads just drop down a grain or two. Nothing at all wrong with doing that. I use .44 mag cases for light, mid, and full-power loads.
Edit to add the difference between .429 and .430 bullets is .001 inch. Usually when shooting cast/coated bullets you may want to try a bullet on the larger side (.431/.432) to better engage the rifling. Buy some of each and experiment till you find a combination your gun likes. |
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Posted: 8/5/2018 12:58:49 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Dryflash, I did decide to go with the Lee FCD for that reason, as well as the process of seating and crimping in two steps. I had a lot of trouble with a seat/crimp die for another caliber once and swore I'd never try to do a one-step again. I just couldn't get the one-step to work no matter how much I messed with the die settings. Ruined a bunch of brass What you have to do is trim all cases to the same length to make this work. Just easier to separate seating and crimping into two dies.
Thanks! More response below. I haven't finished my research yet, but I haven't really found much in the way of published 'light' load recipes for the .44 Magnum casing given the bullet/powder combinations I'd prefer to use (i.e., Xtreme and/or Berry's plated 240's using W231). I just need a safe starting load to go from. I'll be starting to look at various coated bullets next to see if I'd go that direction. I'm not stuck on the plated style bullets, but I've got a lot of 231 and it'd be preferable to work-up using that powder. ETA? Is there any significant difference between bullets with diameters of .429 and .430? None that I have found when using full power 240 gr JHP loads w/H-110. .430 is what I size my cast bullets to. |
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Posted: 8/5/2018 11:17:28 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What you have to do is trim all cases to the same length to make this work. Just easier to separate seating and crimping into two dies. |
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Posted: 8/5/2018 11:25:54 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I will not be casting bullets, so unfortunately, I will only be using FMJ or plated. Thanks. |
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Posted: 8/5/2018 11:30:24 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
......semi- wadcutters at 800/850 fps are fun to shoot and very accurate and leading is not a big problem. |
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Posted: 8/5/2018 12:21:36 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The more I look into this, the more I'm leaning toward the Hi-Tek (or similar) coated bullets. They're certainly less $$ than the FMJ Bayou SNS missouri bullet etc. hardcast coated 200RNFP or 240SWC
...later,...you might, or might not try casting and coating your own. I'm running out of home brew cast, and it's way to hot outside now to smelt and cast I'm buying Hi-tek coated again. probably 90% of my magnum shooting is with cast/coated, vs 10%JHP 
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Posted: 8/5/2018 1:04:01 PM EDT
[#30]
All my Lee factory crimp dies for revolvers have a carbide sizer insert as depicted on Lee's site.
https://leeprecision.com/reloading-dies/hand-gun-dies/lee-carbide-factory-crimp-die/ When people with oversize cylinder throats use larger diameter sized lead bullets to fit oversize throats, the LFCD can indeed swage the bullet down. Both the LFC and the Redding profile crimp can put a very hard crimp in a cannelure. You can go from slightly rounded over to a full down crimp that has a leading edge parallel to the bullet ahead of the roll crimp. The carbide ring of the LFC die straightens out bullets that get slightly cock eyed during seating, and is on revolver and auto LFC dies. Am another strong advocate for seating and crimping in separate operations. |
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Posted: 8/5/2018 4:31:58 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm a big fan of the 44 magnum and have been reloading it for decades 1. - I never use 44 special brass, 44 mag can be down loaded fine. 2. I prefer a roll crimp for all 44 loads, regular LEE, Hornady Dillon etc will work fine. I much prefer seating and crimping on 2 seperate dies. 3. 200rnfp or 240gr SWC coated from bayou, Missouri, or SNS 4. - 6.5gr win231 / 240swc is a nice mild load. 7.5 is a bit warmer but still mild. 970fps 10gr UNIQUE / 240-250 SWC warmer 1150fps'ish 24gr H110/win296 or 22gr 2400 240JHP for hunting this is a hot 1400fps load. punishing on both shooter and target. PS - "Silver rings !" https://i.imgur.com/zuzwgAP.jpg https://i.imgur.com/WX4wS3F.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Hp3jimY.jpg https://i.imgur.com/hwyB4nB.jpg https://i.imgur.com/u14Rogm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/wDuemeV.jpg https://i.imgur.com/2tyCKEI.jpg https://i.imgur.com/5U7woh8.jpg |
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Posted: 8/5/2018 8:50:14 PM EDT
[#32]
Another step in 44 magnum reloading for you to consider:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/788584/speer-empty-shot-capsules-44-caliber-box-of-25 |
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Posted: 8/7/2018 1:32:12 PM EDT
[#33]
@Derek45 I SERIOUSLY covet your Super Blackhawk. May just have to go shopping...
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Posted: 8/7/2018 6:04:53 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
@Derek45 I SERIOUSLY covet your Super Blackhawk. May just have to go shopping...
It's the model 0811 https://ruger.com/products/newModelSuperBlackhawkStandard/specSheets/0811.html I got it at grabagun dot com. 
here it is with my new S&W 69, another nice 44 mag. 
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Posted: 8/9/2018 1:25:49 PM EDT
[#35]
Just discovered another tidbit about .44 Magnum Brass
I've been picking up range brass in this caliber for a few years...just because... Getting ready to start reloading and dug out my saved .44 Mag brass (180 pieces of mixed headstamps) and processed it (de-capped, wet tumbled, and sorted by head stamp). I usually just stand them up like little soldiers on my bench and start separating headstamps. I immediately noticed that I had about a dozen Hornady pieces and that they were visibly shorter than all the rest or the brass. I googled short Hornady brass and found out that this is a known issue. Hornady makes them short to accommodate their FTX bullets (this is true with other calibers by Hornady as well). The result is that when crimping the bullets, the cannelure is not properly placed unless this is the only brass you use and you've accommodated the short brass by adjusting your dies. I have concerns, however, that deeper seating to reach the cannelure might increase the pressure in the round. Since it's only a dozen or so, for convenience, these Hornady pieces will go to the brass bucket in the corner... So a word of caution to others new to reloading (or to a new caliber); Inspecting your brass and separating by headstamp is worth the effort. |
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Posted: 8/9/2018 2:18:20 PM EDT
[#36]
Yes indeed, Hornady brass from factory FTX will be shorter to accommodate FTX loadings. I believe my Hornady manual has FTX specific listings.
In any case, you could probably find a FTX reloader who would happily trade "standard" .44 brass for "FTX length" .44 brass. I don't know how often .44 FTX loads are used in pistols, but I know there are some dedicated levergun hunters who really prefer to use FTX loads in all their hunting lever gun loads. |
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Posted: 8/9/2018 7:45:53 PM EDT
[#37]
I noticed the same on hornady 45LC brass
I have a ton of 44 but no hornady |
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Posted: 8/9/2018 8:06:36 PM EDT
[#38]
Hornady has done the same short brass thing with other calibers, at least 45-70 and 45 Colt.
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Posted: 9/2/2018 8:11:26 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's the model 0811 https://ruger.com/products/newModelSuperBlackhawkStandard/specSheets/0811.html I got it at grabagun dot com. https://i.imgur.com/KDL4k9H.jpg https://i.imgur.com/RTAqSwd.jpg https://i.imgur.com/XYUKnfq.jpg https://i.imgur.com/AO4Ukfu.jpg here it is with my new S&W 69, another nice 44 mag. https://i.imgur.com/2jaD8fH.jpg |
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Posted: 9/2/2018 12:22:54 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @Derek45 This post cost me $600, LOL! Was at a show last weekend and spotted a table of Ruger SA's. Found a New Model Super Blackhawk, stainless, 7.5" with unfluted cylinder in .44 Magnum. Needless to say, it spoke to me and eventually followed me home. It's my first SA.
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Posted: 9/2/2018 2:17:16 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: @Derek45 This post cost me $600, LOL! Was at a show last weekend and spotted a table of Ruger SA's. Found a New Model Super Blackhawk, stainless, 7.5" with unfluted cylinder in .44 Magnum. Needless to say, it spoke to me and eventually followed me home. It's my first SA. 
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Posted: 9/2/2018 2:34:38 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
And me an Arsenal 5 gang 240 gr SWC mold. It's a beauty. ARFCOM....keeping the economy rolling since 2000 LOL I need to find some more lead 
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Posted: 9/2/2018 4:12:55 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Cool. ARFCOM....keeping the economy rolling since 2000 LOL I need to find some more lead https://i.imgur.com/BoOhoIe.jpg |
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Posted: 9/2/2018 11:25:49 PM EDT
[#44]
Got some of them PC'd tonight, will be loading soon.
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Posted: 9/4/2018 8:40:07 AM EDT
[#45]
I've been loading 44 Magnum for Ruger Super Redhawk and S&W 629, here's my 2 cents:
Have used Lee FCD on all loads, thousands of coated lead 240gr SWC, never swaged the bullet. H110 with CCI 350 Magnum primers is a heck of a noise maker, don't go below minimum charge. Accurate #9 and Hodgdon Longshot work well for medium power, 240gr SWC loads. Buy a thousand of Starline 44 Magnum brass, it lasts and lasts and lasts. I have some Starline cases with over 5 max power loadings, no signs of wearing out yet. 44 Magnum is a pleasure to load, enjoy and as always, be careful. |
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Posted: 9/4/2018 3:00:32 PM EDT
[#46]
I am late to the thread but I will throw in my $0.02
If you're running jacket bullets in the ~240gr weight range and only loading for a revolver I would suggest skipping the H110/296. I know that is probably an unpopular option but in a revolver I find H110/296 just results in a lot of unnecessary recoil and muzzle blast. H110 seems just a touch too slow for most revolvers, hence the muzzle flash as the last of the powder burns in open atmosphere. I recently loaded up several different powders working up a load for a 240 gr XTP for a hunting load in my M29/M92 combo. The H110 has an awful amount of muzzle blast from my 6.5 inch S&W model 29. With 180 gr bullets it was down right obnoxious. I had also tried some Hi-Skor 800-X under that 240 gr XTP and was amazed that with nearly half the weight of propellant I got basically same velocity, minimal muzzle blast and noticeably less recoil despite basically the same bullet velocity (just over 1300 fps for both loads) Now when I tested both loads in my 16-inch M92 carbine the H110 got a significantly bigger bump in velocity for the longer barrel (again pointing to it being too slow for the revolver); ~350 fps bump for the H110 but only ~220 fps with the 800-X but the 800-X was so much more well behaved in the revolver (more accurate and less muzzle blast) that it has become my favorite 44 Mag load. I will save the H110 for reloading 410 shotshells it's just too obnoxious in magnum revolvers when there are more well behaved powders IMHO to choose from. |
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Posted: 9/4/2018 3:38:29 PM EDT
[#47]
IN.
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Posted: 9/4/2018 8:08:42 PM EDT
[#48]
Interesting take on the 800X. I may have to try some to work up another load.
Thanks |
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Posted: 9/5/2018 8:57:11 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Interesting take on the 800X. I may have to try some to work up another load. Thanks |
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Posted: 9/5/2018 10:10:29 AM EDT
[#50]
yep 800 x looks like oreo cookies, which is why my only can is still 90% full....and old LOL
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