Hello all,

I've been wanting to get into sewing gear for a long time.

I've seen threads pop up once in a while about it.


I just got my first machine a couple days ago. I've never sewn before, but it seems pretty easy.
I know that I will want something better at some point, but for now I want to try and make this work.
Singer Heavy Duty 4411.
I know I will be limited by this a bit, but am surprised at how much this thing will sew through.
I sometimes have to hand crank through several layers of webbing and fabric.
But that is usually when it is so thick, of barely fits under the foot.


I have a question about a few specific fabrics.

Hypalon, AKA Orca. You know, the cordura that is backed by a rubber layer.

Is there anything similar to Hypalon that is a little cheaper, available in tactical color options?

I feel like it is a little overkill for what I want to use it for. Mostly small pouches, mag holders etc.

I'm looking to make some really streamlined stuff. Think Blue Force Gear. Elastic outer layer etc. No heavy webbing.


Threads and needles. I'm using Schmetz 100/16 needles with 69# poly coated bonded nylon thread. Is that a good setup for gear making?


I've made a few masks, headlamp headband and even altered a backpack.
Made a TQ holder out of 2" webbing and shock cord. No picture.
I've taken in a few BDU coats and a bunch of shirts.
I'm just learning, but feel I am picking it up pretty quickly.


I have a bunch of fabric, webbing and elastic on the way. I hope to be making a few more things by next week.

I plan on making an elastic cumberbund for my JPC.

Anyways, Interested in any help with the hypalon question and any other tips/tricks you may have.
Also, please feel free to show off anything you have been making.


A few pics.

My first alteration attempt.....Tired elastic
Not very pretty, but works good.


Replaced worn out straps.....



First mask. Have a bunch of multicam fabric on hand.



Headband



This coat used to be humongous.

I took in the sleeves after taking this pic.


ETA: Are there any sources for patterns for gear making?

I'm using the same thread but am currently using 110/18 needles

I'm in the same boat as you and I'm still learning, right now I'm working on retro fitting first spear tubes on my velocity carrier.

What color thread are you using?

I have some 110/18 needles as well. Should work good.

I have some tan and od green bonded nylon on cone spools.

I also have a bunch of coats&clark XP dual duty heavy. It feels about the same. Have that in sveral "cool" colors, which I bought over the years to hand sew repairs.

I though of doing tubes on my elastic cumberbund that I wanna make. Will have to look into that.


ETA: for masks, I am using a basic needle and cottton thread.

Hypalon has been discontinued by DuPont but there are alternatives on the market. An option would be Trelleborg. Now the Cordura laminate onto Hypalon is not that readily available. The only people I know that sell it is Blue Force Gear but it is only to other tactical gear manufacturers and subject to minimums.

How are you choosing to attach them? I ended up just making panels similar to the Blaze Defense ones, which works well since I am using the quarter-flaps for side plates.

I was self-taught, started with an older metal geared household machine, made a few things, bought an industrial zig zag machine, made a few more things, bought a walking foot industrial machine, then a Singer 269W11 42-stitch bartacker for $75, only it was set up for 12 stitch belt loop pattern, cost me about $800 in parts and labor having it rigged back to 42-stitch for laying MOLLE/PALS grid.     Now I just can't physically sit at the machine very long, leaning under it to keep an eye on the stitch line.  

Tear apart a few military surplus pouches, see how they are made, use accepted practices in designing your own packs and pouches.    www.gearmaker.org is a support group for individual and professional tactical gear makers.

Poynter's Parachute Manual is good for learning to sew to mil-specs, accepted practices if your break a thread, run out of bobbin, etc/

www.WTFIdea.com has the Trelleborg HANK Swiss-made Hypalon style fabric and Cordura laminate technical fabrics:
https://www.wtfidea.com/fabric-laminate/
https://www.wtfidea.com/fabric-coated/

Rockywoods.com is one of the best for mil-spec fabrics, webbing and hardware in small lot, non-wholesale.

www.lowyusa.com
www.geraldschwartzinc.com has minimum wholesale orders
www.johnhowardcompany.com has minimum wholesale orders

www.paragear.com for mil-spec parachute hardware, fabrics, webbings, etc

Mil-Spec Monkey Store gets some unobtanium hardware, webbings etc that you normally would need to buy by the case: https://milspecmonkey.com/store/15-hardware-diy

Hudson Supply gets some National Molding and Fastex unobtanium hardware you would normally need to buy by the 1,000pc case:
https://www.hudson4supplies.com/hudson-tactical.html
www.TNWebbing.com is good for mil-spec webbing by the roll at wholesale pricing, no case minimums.

'I used textile_specialist on ebay for Mil-Spec genuine US made Cordura Nylon solids and some camo patterns, some of it is closeout rolls, small quantity so if you find a shade you dig buy it while you can.

Thanks so much for all the info!
A treasure trove there I tell yea. It should be stickied.
I'm going through all the sources now.
Thanks again.

Some of the rubber coated Trelleborg stuff is made here in town.  It "fades" and turns ghostish over time. They should sell it with armor-all.  And it stinks like a mofo when laser cutting.  Not sure what their trade name for it is though.

Check out Brookwood Squadron for another laminated material.  It is laminated 500d/1000d nylon that is pretty durable and cuts very easily with laser. I can laser cut the Squadron for you if you come up with your patterns and send me material.

I have an old Juki LU562 at home. It's spending its retirement years mending horse blankets and repairing dog collars. Lol. I wish I picked up a bartacker when I had the chance.

CHRIS

The Squadron looks like good stuff. I really appreciate the cutting offer. I will msg you soon when I come up with some finished designs.
I'm brainstorming ideas for a few items. IFAK, mag pouches, TQ holders, flashlight pouch etc.

I was messing around lastnight with some 1000d cordura. Making some pull tabs.
I wanted to add a little "grip" to the material, so I figured I would try out some clear flex seal.
Sprayed some fabric and dryed it out. Still cuts and sews easily. Pretty fun.
The clear flex seal doesn't change the color at all.

This is all just for friends and I. Not looking to go into business. Hoping I still have (should) a stable job after all this lockdown is over.

Made a lightweight summer belt yesterday. Came out pretty good.

Currently working on a 2 piece shooters belt.

Thanks again!

The Squadron definitely does not have the grippy texture. I forgot that the rubber coated stuff was used for that. I worked in an armor/tac gear sew shop for about seven years...but It's been a few years and I've forgotten some things.  Lots of things. Lol.

CHRIS

Rockywoods.com used to carry a textured, rubberized composite fabric called Slip Not, in both Ranger/Olive Green and Coyote Brown/Tan498. I don't see Slip Not by name on their site anymore but they have this polyester backed non-slip in Coyote Brown:
http://rockywoods.com/Non-slip-PVC-material-with-a-600-X-300-polyester-backing-Coyote-Brown

I've used 1" x 2 -2.5" long strips of Slip Not, folded over nylon webbing tabs then box stitched with a loop for 1/8" bungee cord for magazine retention tabs.
Attached File



I was curious what the correct spelling is, its Slip-NOT, and Seattlefabrics.com carries it in Coyote Brown/USMC Tan498, Foliage Green 504, Olive Green and Black:
https://www.seattlefabrics.com/54-Sanded-Slip-NOT-Grip-Fabric-2195-linear-yard_p_168.html


Another source: https://www.ahh.biz/fabric/rubberized/slip-not-rubberized-tactical-fabric.php

Something I'm thinking about is--now this is going to sound silly until you read all of this--is making a chest rig for my 3 year old son.  The reason is that I use mine for carrying stuff while hiking, to put the useful stuff up front and balance the load of the backpack, just like regular GI usage minus the mags, me wearing a helmet helmet, etc.  It's just handy and makes a lot of sense.  So for him to follow along and learn by doing, I figured one for him might not be a bad idea.  It probably won't take a lot of fabric to make given that it's half size.  Maybe make it webbed so I can just attach Molle pouches to it to save time and make it easy to move up to a bigger size once he grows more.  Anyone done this?

Start the project off with an old molle cummerbund. It's a pre-made long rectangle with the molle loops attached.

CHRIS

Awesome. That helps a lot. Thanks!!
Just ordered from Rockywoods to try some out.
My list of gear ideas is getting bigger every day.
Will have some stuff finished soon and will post pics.

That would be a fun project.
You could make it really lightweight if you used grosgrain ribbon for the molle and a lot of the construction.
It would be cheaper too!

If I wanted to make a 2 piece, inner/outer belt system, what would be a good material to stiffen the inner belt up with?

Thin polycarbonate sheet sandwiches between the layers.

CHRIS

Polycarbonate can be brittle, crack easily when drilled out for passing thread or cord through for assembly.    The military uses HDPE High Density Polyethylene sheet, cut into strips sewn into the sides of the LC-1/LC-2 ALICE 30rd Mag Pouches, and into MOLLE Family.      0.035" and 0.060" thick.   0.035" stiffeners in the MOLLE M249 SAW Pouches/0.060" sheet plus 0.25" closed cell foam for the MOLLE Assault Pack Frame Sheet.

I used 0.060" that I bought pre-sheared into 1 23/32" wide strips to sew between 2 layers of Type 7 or Type 13 Parachute Webbing with 1.5" Loop Velcro sewn on the inside face for gun belts, with a Fastex, Cobra or plastic Cobra buckle.   When you sew through plastic you need a thicker head needled like leather needles to prevent the HDPE rough edge around the hole from shredding the nylon thread.    Basically the leather needles have a larger diameter head so once it clears the material there is plenty of room between the hole and the thread in the slot of needle shaft to prevent shredding.   You use a longer stitch length and looser tension.

I made a miniaturized Crye JPC for my nephew, skeletonized Hypalon shoulder straps 1.5" wide instead of 2", 3/4" webbing in the MOLLE/PALS grid but spaced 1.25" between the rows so you can use standard MOLLE pouches.

Thanks!!! Great tips.
Just what I needed. Looking at HDPE sheets, you get killed on shipping.
I have a decent selection of needles.
I'll look into leather needles as well.
I have some Schmetz 16/100 universal on hand.

I made a small pouch for my Baofeng radio yesterday.
Kind of overkill, but I sandwiched some .08" foam I had on hand between a layer of 1000d and 400d cordura for the front, back and botton panel.
Basically made a box with a flap top.
I spent a lot of time measuring a radio and drawing it out.
I came out pretty much as I envisioned, aside from a hangup on the flap velcro. Which sucks, because that is the main part you see.
Once I got to final assembly of the back panel, I realised I had forgotten to measure and design the attachment method. LOL.
Figured I would keep it simple. Used some repourposed plastic for the strap guides.
I also forgot to sew down the middle of the molle straps on the back before assembling.









I hadn't trimmed the threads yet in this pic.

I've been known to make a pouch or two myself.  There are very few good references for this stuff, much less any patterns and what-not.  PPM Vol 1 has always been my bible.  I have found that the materials and techniques used in parachute rigging are readily applicable to tact gear making.  One thing I would mention is you guys seem to be keying on this thicker, heavier stuff, which is cool, but takes some different sewing techniques; and without a walking foot machine, it can be frustrating.  I would try and work with 500d cordura and get your techniques down, then switch up to more difficult heavier fabrics.  A steady diet of heavy stuff will burn up the motor on a singer home sewing machine (BTDT).  

I have found over the years that a no. 18 needle, with no. 69 nylon bonded thread is the bare minimum for good sewing in 1,000d cordura or better.  I shoot for 6-8 SPI (stitches per inch) for most sewing in say 2-6 layers.  When you get thicker, build-ups, especially with webbing, you might want to open that up slightly 5-6 SPI, but make sure you have a good sew pattern that puts enough stitches in for required strength.  Poynters has the formulas and examples for all this stuff.  For example, you want to join 1" 337 webbing to 3 layers of cordura.  To get a strength of 500 lb test, you would sew "E" or no. 69 thread, 6-8 SPI, in a Box "X" pattern, no less than 1 1/4" in length.  Obviously, for us, we just want to make sure our kit will last, but you can see where they're coming from.  Don't want to Wiley Coyote in your ACME parachute.

On patterns, your best bet is just buy old gear and tear it apart.  See how it was made.  Lay it out and make a pattern of it.  Cut out a few yourself and practice making it.  I have boxes of old patterns from doing this.  Just something you have to build up over time.

Eventually you might want to get an industrial sewing machine.  I would recommend looking at a Juki DDL 8700 series.  The 8700H is for heavier fabric and such.  It is my go-to machine right now.  

Be glad to answer up any particular questions.  Stuff's pretty easy to do, more or less.  But then there's hard and easy ways of doing it.

Here's one of my latest projects.  An assault chest rig I made for a buddy.



Pouches are for 2 x 30-rd mags or a 152.  Tuck tab closure that can be removed from top flap and used stand-alone for radios.  Pull tab is tucked underneath web loop to secure for insertion or extraction.  Butt simple, light, no hardware or velcro.

Cool pics and some good info

https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/DIY-sewing-thread/10-475163/

Thanks for the tips, and GREAT looking rig you did there!
I just got some of my 500d cordura in yesterday. Will have to play around a bit.
I think I have some 18 needles. I know I have 16 for sure.
I do have 69# bonded nylon as well.
Thanks again!

Great stuff and good tutorials. Nice work!
I have been wanting to make some better pads for my chest rig. Will use your tutorial for sure!
I am bouncing around some ideas for a simple lightweight, minimally padded sling ATM.
Thanks!

There used to be a bunch of this stuff on line but I guess it gets archived and here we go again.  

Some points for you new guys.  There is just sewing something together, and it works more or less, and then there is sewing stuff together according to set standards.  You will see much gear that's just sewn up with rag trade or clothing techniques.  By this I mean simple sewing techniques that join materials together, with speed and quantity in mind, versus sewing techniques that were developed for para/load bearing equipment, with strength and durability in mind.  I'm not saying it won't work, but I am saying there's better ways of doing things, if you want your kit to be a little bit better.  

By studying PPM vol 1, you will learn what it takes to sew something up that will be strong and last a long time.  If we are making load bearing equipment, such as belt kits, chest rigs, packs, etc.  I think it makes a lot of sense to build it so it won't fail you when needed.  If this sounds good to you, then consider these techniques.  

I've give you a typical example.  In cheap chest rigs, like you might see for airsofters on ebay, the front shoulder strap attachments are frequently just double-stitched directly into the sewn joint between two pieces of cordura.  This is a rag trade technique.  Works for most lady's garments and so forth.  But, when put under load, such as hard use in the field, this joint will frequently shit the bed on you.

As compared to a chest rig made with para sewing techniques.  The front shoulder strap would be Box "X" stitched onto the layers of cordura, typically with no. 69 thread, 6-8 SPI, with a 7/8" square pattern.  For a test strength of at least 250 lbs.  These are the details that make all the difference between something that looks like the real deal, and the real deal.

And there's actually a standard pattern to putting a box "X" in.  You start across the line that will see the most stress.  Sew to the end, turn the corner.  Sew to that end, turn the corner.  And finally sew to that end, creating the box.  Now turn 45 deg and put in first diagonal.  Turn 45 deg again and put in second line of stitching across "bottom" of box (should be opposite of your "start" line).  There are two techniques to this.  The first lays in the second line right next to the first.  This is principally for larger dia threads and high strength patterns.  The second, which works for us in general use, is to endeavor to stich right into the same holes as the first line.  Now you are set to turn 45 deg and put in second diagonal.  Once at corner, turn 45 deg to original start line.  Now over-stitch this line, from the opposite direction as where you first started, trying to stay in the same stitch holes.  For extra strength, I then spin 180 deg and lay in one more stitch line (for three total).  So the line that will see the most stress now has a triple or "Z" stitch line that protects the leading edge of the pattern.

This has been found to be one of the strongest, all-around patterns in common use.  Especially when joining dis-similar materials, such as rolled goods (cordura) and webbing.  The pattern gives the required total stitches for a strong joint, without over-perforating the material with excessive holes and thread, which can actually weaken the pattern and cause failures.  So yes, there is such a thing as too much of a good thing.  Just repeating the patttern over and over (like we've seen some do) actually weakens the joint.

If you find this stuff to be as fascinating as I do, then look into it for yourself.  PPM vol 1 is still available but kinda pricey (vol 2 is just mostly para-rigging stuff).  The Parachute Riggers Handbooks are still published by the FAA and contain essentially the same info.  The original handbook by Sandy Reed is outstanding.  The newer ones I'm not sure of, but assume they are follow-ons to his original work.  Some of you might become interested in parachute rigging, as I did.  I re-built an entire MFF (Military Free-Fall rig) that was "de-milled", and jumped it!  That's what you might call standing behind your work.

I'm gonna try and get my hands on PPM vol1.
Sounds like it will be just what I need...especially for when I eventually try and make my own carrier, which for now holds 11x14" steel plates!

I'm gonna practice the box X.
It sounds very similar to what I have attempted so far, just going off intuition.

I do find all this stuff fascinating as well.
Thanks for all the great info.

If the PPM becomes sorta collectible, then maybe we'll have to post up the info somewhere else.  Will also have to check out current rigger's manuals and see if info is there as well.

I had the opportunity to pull-test my sewn joints when I worked in aerospace, so I can confirm the info in PPM is legit.  Ideally you are shooting for the tensile strength of the webbing, so the webbing itself will fail before the sewn joint.  With typical 1" nylon webbing coming in at 1,000 lb test, you can see this would make things fairly bomb-proof.

But then here's something else we've discovered.  With the G-WOT came many new initiatives, including load bearing equipment design.  I, like may others, just took parachute techniques, unmodified, and applies them directly to nylon gear.  Then "some guys" started exploring new ways of making this stuff lighter, less water-absorbent, but still very functional.  So we've seen this trend towards light-weight gear, as opposed to "bomb-proof" stuff that we were quite proud of there for awhile.  

So taking PPM as a guide, some folks have started making their own stds specifically for LBE, which takes into account the required level of strength vs a life-support std.  Obviously these folks aren't sharing their current proprietary info with us amateur's but we can figure most of it out.  For example, instead of sewing a 1,000 lb test joint with 1" webbing, I can sew that to 250 lbs, which coincidently is the strength of common polymer hardware.  And for most folks is still plenty strong.

So yeah this stuff has certainly evolved over the years.  And you guys are very fortunate to be exploring this in a time when materials and techniques are much more readily available.

Yeah that site is legit.  Lots of good gouge over there for the technical aspects of sewing, as well as business and marketing.

@SpudCrushr

I used your tutorial to start some shoulder pads. Thanks for putting that together!

It was getting late when I started, so I only finished one.
I didn't have any 1" binding in multicam, so I used .75"
This was my first time using binding. Came out OK.
I just folded and ironed it.


I decided at the last minute to add some 1" elastic for hydration routing.
I got a little ahead of myself and forgot to add the second piece under the loop fabric. LOL

So I added it to the other side where the hook is.

I'll use that pad for my right side, as I usually run my hydro on the left.
Will be sure to do the left pad correctly.
It works though.

Nice job, that one turned out great.

Thanks Spud.
Making these for my JPC style carrier.
Hope to someday be able to afford a real JPC.
Day is coming soon as I just got called back to work from furlough.

Just finished the left side pad. Remembered to put the elastic in the correct spots this time.



Old vs new.




Forgot to mention....I used 330d cordura for these.
I am still waiting for my 500d to show up and figured the 1000d I have on hand is WAY overkill for this application.

Made a 2 piece belt today.
Fun project.
It came out pretty good.



1.75" heavy webbing.

Used some 1/16" HDPE sheet I got from McMaster Carr to stiffen it up.

I planned the outer belt in 2 pieces.
The main outer belt, then the inner portion of that would be the pocket for the HDPE strip.
I sewed the velcro hook to that inner portion, then sewed that onto the main belt, leaving a pocket to slip the plastic into. Like seen below.....


Finished off the tail end at the adjustable side with a simple loop.


Had I planned it better, I would have done the outer belt as 1 long continuous piece and folded it over itself around the buckle.
Will do that on the next one.

Used a 100/16 Schmetz needle and Gutermann Tera 80 thread.
Working on a box stitch.
I didn't plan very well and got hung up near the buckle. So had to do it in a couple different steps.


Still learning but having fun making stuff.
Next up, some mag pouches and an IFAK.

Those look great.  I have issues keeping a straight line so I haven't even tried binding yet.  We had binding machines on the floor at DBT.  So easy an armor R&D guy could do it!


CHRIS

A little late so I apologize, but I'll be taking over shipping at the company here next week. Didnt even realize I lived three blocks from them until I got hired.
Things are slow right now, so if you have orders I apologize, but Ill be working hard the new few weeks to clear some of the back log.

Awesome. Sounds good.
I think I have an order in que.

Currently working on a bare essentials IFAK design for my belt.
Here is the insert I made lastnight.
Tried this one as proof of concept.
Used some extra 500d and 1000d to test stiffness.
Was planning to remake it with preferred materials.
Handles are multicam webbing with a red poly pro core.
I think it will work OK.
Nothing was measured out or planned all that well, to be honest.
I just drew it out on paper to scale.
Eyeballed all the elastic and velcro.
Next one will be properly measured and mapped out.


Underside of the pull tab has coyote no-slip.



Planning and drawing out the sleeve today.
Now that I'm back to work, I barely have time to tackle these sewing projects. But I can't complain.

Thank you sir.
I'm finding binding a major PITA, especially in longer runs.
Short bits seem doable.
I tried out a cheap binding foot lastnight.
It was meh.
Decided to freehand and not concern myself with perfection, for now.

Have you tried using binder clips or pinning your bindings in place?

Yea, I should have mentioned. I am using binder clips. They work great to hold everything together.

I think I figured out a better way to do binding than what I was previously doing.
Learned I could fold the binding under itself a little bit at the corners. Way better.

Once I had all my pouches and stuff where I wanted them on my vests, I always took 3m 5200 black, and glued those suckers on.  Only thing is, make sure, because it's permanent as shit.

I like. Will add that to my "to do" list...if I ever make it back home (thanks COVID).

It was my day off work yesterday and about 95* outside, so I figured it would be a good day to do some more sewing.

I finished up my IFAK concept. Came out about how I was envisioning it, which is cool.

Next one will have a few changes. Make it a little more streamlined, inside and out.
There is some excess that can be trimmed.
But it is pretty lightweight and functions well.
Good retention, but not too much.

I used some foam backed 500D cordura for the sleeve. It holds it's shape well.
I believe it is like headliner material.
The foam on the inside is kind of like the inside of a wetsuit.
Slick enough that the sleeve does not get hung-up at all when removing.




The belt loops are designed to interface with the belt I made.



Installed.



Underside elastic retention. May need to think this installation out a little better. It works though.



Also worked on a few mag pouches.



Used some 1/32" HDPE for stiffness. Doesn't add much weight, but provides good rigidity.
First one I made without it and it was a little soft.






I think next time, I will attach the top of the binding to the elastic first. That way there is a little more insertion depth.
The pistol mag pouch on the right was the first one I made w/o HDPE.
Also, positioned the gripper tabs lower on the last 3 versions.



I used 500D Multicam ACRONYM for the mag pouches. Simple fold over.

Back to the OP, concerning patterns, here's ONE way of doing it.



This is as simple as it gets.  Take what you need to put in a pouch, and build a pouch around it.

The trick is thinking in 3 dimensions.  Every measurement you make in one side, or plane, has to line up with the corresponding sides or planes.  After you goof up enough, you learn how it needs to be done.  The ol' trial and error method.  

Here is the completed pattern for a 2-mag pouch.  For our discussion here, notice the lines that box in the front, sides, top, and bottom.  Visualize how it would all fold up to make a pouch.  

   

And here you are.





I use the old document clips to assemble and check fit before sewing.  A new pattern might take 2-4 tries to get it right.  So start out with cheap material until it's dialed in.  

This is why all those companies would just copy each other's designs; it's a lot of work to make a new design.  

Here's a canteen/sustainment pouch.



Same deal here.  



And testing out.



Notice Brit canteen cup nestles on top, making nice shelf for ruck.

Some general notes.  I am using a 3/8" seam allowance.  You may want to start with 1/2" until your patterns are tight, then move it down.  But for most tac gear, I wouldn't go below this.  This will also match up with 3/4" binding tape.  

I am using 500d cordura, reinforced with webbing.  I'll show pics of that later.

No. 69 nylon bonded thread, 6-8 spi.

Number 21 needle.

I am sewing "net", using 3/4" binding tape on raw edges.  This is a technique brought over from parachute rigging, and works well with thicker materials and build-ups we are working with.  

This can be a slow and painful process, but in the end, you will be able to create your own patterns, and not be dependent on anyone else.  I once used dang near a 50 yd roll of cordura on a rigging project to make my own harness and container.  Because of the geometry, with multiple curves in 3 dimensions, you find that not much is a straight line, even though it may end up like that, after it's all sewn together.  And you will also find, on larger projects, you have to account for shrinkage.  On a parachute container, for instance, you can lose up to an inch and half.  We are fortunate here, in that most pouches are small, uniform rectangles.  Much like running bare back, and running with a ruck, there is suck, and there is hard suck.

Diz, this is all great info. I really appreciate your help and time.
You're giving me some good ideas to get my head wrapped around all this.
I've been thinking about a better machine, but was also offered a good deal on a 1911, which I don't have yet. Been wanting one for a while.
So $1200-1400 will go towards one of those in the near future.
I feel like my little singer heavy duty will live a short life. Hahaha

Don't I know it.  Been trying to balance out all these things for decades.  Training.  Weapons.  Equipment.  Supplies.  Although weapons usually win!

The Juki 8700 series has come WAY down in price, since all the CNC machinery hit the streets.  You can find them around 700 bucks.  It's a good time to buy one.  If you do, check out the DDL 8700H, which is for heavy-duty work.  I just picked one up and it is awesome.  Sadly, it beats the hell out of my trusty Mutsi 130, which is now dedicated to binding tape.

I checked out the DDL 8700H.
Looks great. Would fit my needs perfectly and it's way within budget.
Thanks Diz.

Worked on a couple lightweight slings lastnight.




Made the wifey some pads for her PC. I was drinking a little andf some of my lines are wonky, but they work.





Wanted to work with zipper because I am planning some other projects, like jackets etc.
Made this little pouch.





I've been needing a LW blanket for summer camping, so I made this out of 1.3oz nylon and 2.5oz APEX insulation.
Also an exercise to practice seams for the jackets I want to make.
I will use some of the 1.3oz nylon and also have some 1.55oz Epsilon in Multicam for that.
Thinking some type of raglan sleeve, possibly with offset color patterns.






I've also been losing a lot of weight. 100lbs since Oct.
I've been getting tired of buying clothes, so I taught myself how to disassemble clothes, take them in and reassemble.
I did a pair of tru-spec pants and a few cheap shorts for practice.
I have some expensive clothes, camo and such. Figured it would be cheaper to tailor than to replace.
I took the pants most of the way apart. Removed belt loops, wasitband, inseam and seat. Removed material and put them back together.
Here is the inseam I did. Tried to replicate a serger seam using a zig-zag over the edge.




I have some more stuff in the works. Will share later.

Have you talked with some upholstery shops? I found a guy locally that is going to help me out. He actually had a defense contract at the beginning of the Iraq war. He has also set up a productive line for business in the area that grew and opened their own shop. I have some ideas for gear and I want to see if I can make them. I used to modify ALICE gear and a few other things. I started to make my own gear but health prevented from perusing it at the time.

A lot of great info here and I just joined the gear builders sight. Used to be another one but I think it’s not as busy of a sight or no longer being used. I tried to register and says I have an account but I can’t get it to work.

Tearing down surplus gear is a great way. Drawing it out and then transferring it to poster board works too. Poster board will allow you to fold and tape things together and get an idea ow what it will look like.

I had an old Singer sewing machine from the 20s or early 30s. It would sew a leather belt double up without any problems. Didn’t even stress the motor.