Local shop has one used for 1200. Seems REALLY reasonable to me.

It's the black synthetic stock model. It does seem to have a longer brake that most pictures I can find for the CQB. The rifle is CLEAN. It hasn't seen many rounds, if it's been shot since new

Anything I need to know about these or look out for?

I have the slightly longer scout model, love it!!

I damn near got the socom, but it has a larger front sight post, tritium. And it has a shortened modified operating rod.

I wanted the normal front sight for better long range ability, the socom seems like a beast for 0-100 yards.

Palmetto occasionally has them for 1400-1500.

Mags run 40-50 each if I remember correctly.  

Nothing wrong with a 16" .308

It will be LOUD (short bbl). Thinking it also should/will use standard M1a mags?

1200 bucks would be an absolute steal in my area. There's a used one for sale (consignment) at a LGS and the asking price is 1700 bucks.

They are just not common here on the used market as folks that have M1A's tend to hold onto them.

We don't see them much, either.

The guy I know who works for the shop is convinced they screwed the guy who sold it to them. I don't a have a frame of reference for what they usually go for around here, but I'm thinking this is a good deal.

I don't REALLY need another .308, but damn if this thing isn't cool and very clean.

Both would be correct. (I'm assuming about it being loud, but it does use M1A mags. I happen to have 7-8 already.)

1200 is a rather good price for one if it is in good condition like you describe. I would jump on one for that, and I have a SOCOM and a Tanker.
ETA: curious about the brake, that's actually like the main difference between it and the Scout/Loaded/Standard. The SOCOM gas lock, compensator, and front sight base is one piece and uses a different thread and the front sight blade is different. Typically if you are changing muzzle devices on it you have to use an adapter like the Delta P or an SEI adapter. So if it has a different brake you may have an SEI gas lock or something like that on there.

It looks like the longer brake from the Scout, honestly.

If that's the rifle you're looking at, that's not a SOCOM.
ETA: That looks like a Scout that someone took the forward scope mount off of and for some reason put a SOCOM CQB op rod on.

That’s a steal for 1200 if it’s a scout. If it’s a Socom it’s a decent deal. Buy your mags direct from checkmate you’ll save some money. A socom the muzzle device can be changed to a threaded one to allow any number of flash hiders that will help the blast. You can do the same for the scout brake or install a standard flash hider.

That is and it explains a lot. And yeah the op rod definitely is marked CQB.

Any thoughts on value of a rifle thus modified?

The Scout is very widely liked, and that price would be a great deal assuming the rifle is in good condition. Now why they put a SOCOM CQB op rod on there, I don't know. Maybe they just like how it looked, maybe he bent his original op rod somehow, I don't know. They all (standard, scout, bush, SOCOM, tanker) use the same op rod, so there isn't anything to be gained from using it as opposed to the original or an unmarked one from somewhere else.
If the bore looks good and bright, if there isn't anything jacked up underneath that might indicate the op rod broke or got bent, and everything looks good then I would say it is probably a good buy. The shop hopefully will let you pull the trigger pack and look at the action to see. I'd check to make sure the op rod lines up with the gas cylinder and is secured in the op rod guide. If you had gauges that would be good but I'm assuming you don't and most people don't. See if there's a lot of slop in the bolt and op rod as it moves and also with it locked forward, that's kind of a finesse thing. Look for lots of wear/bright metal, although it sounds like you didn't see any if I read your post right.
I'm inclined to think you found a good deal with that rifle and you probably don't want to sleep on it.
ETA: whoever had it, likely removed the optic mount if that started out as a Scout. They may have replaced the op rod when they did that, no idea. I can't imagine why you would swap that out unless you just wanted that lettering on there or the original was dinged and the lettered one was available. I -think- the Bush rifle or some models of the Bush rifle didn't have the optic rail, and that might actually be what this is. If it is, then it is an older production rifle and that might increase the value at least to some because those rifles had GI parts, depending on when it was made. To clarify, it would make the price even better than if it were a newer production Scout because of the time it was produced, meaning you could expect more/most GI parts.
I am far from an authority on all of the SAI rifles and variants, but that's what comes to mind to me based on what you're posting. If it were me, I'd buy it.

Yeah, all the normal contact areas and the receiver slide guide have zero finish wear. No wear on the feed ramp or any other internal part of the rifle I can see from inspecting it through the top with the bolt pulled back.

It really looks like the the thing was unboxed, greased up, and then sat in someone's safe for years until they decided to sell it.

These guys might let me pull it apart to inspect it. I'm confounded by why anyone would have replaced the op rod though. I'm going to guess it wasn't shot enough to bend it. Maybe something SA put in it, because they were out of the normal SOCOM marked op rods?

ETA - yeah no gauges. Going to have to go off condition on that one.

If you aren't seeing any wear in the open/easily viewed areas I wouldn't expect you to see much underneath either.
It is possible I guess that SAI might have sent that out the door with the SOCOM op rod, but that would be a little odd because it isn't a SOCOM for sure. And if it is in fact a Bush rifle those came out as far back as 1991 way before the SOCOM was even thought of. If you can take it out of the stock, look on the bottom of the barrel and see if there are rings/wear marks around it where the scout mount would have been. They may be very faint if it was never shot and it was in fact a Scout that someone took the mount off of. If you don't see anything, you may be looking at a Bush rifle that never had that mount, and the SOCOM op rod mystery remains. If you had the SN there are probably people that could give you a date range on here as they changed their marking/numbering during different years I think. Obviously you could also reach to to SAI and get the exact details including if it left the factory as a Bush rifle or Scout.
Good luck my dude, I hope it ends up being a good deal.

$1200 Scout thread.
Now keep in mind he got a lot of stuff with his, that Basset mount alone is worth $120 and the mags are around $30 for the 20 rounders. However, yours might be just as good without all that if you do have an older Bush rifle with no/very limited use.

The shortness is nice for making it very handy, but the blast and concussion are significant. I'd recommend an 18" Scout instead.

The 18" barrels also have more options for muzzle devices, and noticeably less muzzle blast.

There is a lot of unburnt (or still burning) powder coming out of a 16" barrel (unless you're firing specialty ammo utilizing faster-burning powder like the MK 319 ammo SOCOM uses in their SCAR-H CQC).

All M1A op rods are the same.

I used to have a SOCOM 16 traded it to my cousin for a loaded years ago.  He uses the Hell out of on the ranch he maintains.  It is always with him on horse back or in his truck and no telling how many pigs and coyotes have been take out with it.  It is one of the rifles I regret getting rid of but at least it is getting really good hard use.  Maybe some day I might buy another one who knows...

Pretty funny, I know a farmer that keeps his bush rifle in the cab of his tractor. 308 will sure lay a wallop on a yote

That pretty much sums up my cousin wherever she got on horseback it is in a modified scabbard cut out to not affect the charging handle, back of his truck, slung over his back, or just literally always on him.  I can only imagine the body count on that rifle at this point he shoots hogs, coyotes, hogs, skunks, hogs, armadillo, more hogs, or anything that is a pest nuisance critter to the owners property.  I got to see the rifle this last Christmas when it was in the back of his truck it was absolutely beautiful with a ranch hand battle worn look with dust and dirt all over it but not even a spec of rust because he does stay on the upkeep.  Maybe one day I will get him to trade it back to me but he sure does love that rifle.  He has been bugging me for a solution to add a really bright light of some sort.

UltiMak, M14.CA, or VLTOR rail. all have rail on top and you can add rails to the sides. The Canadian one is proprietary though.
Use an offset mount and whatever light.
Or replace the front swivel with a rail.
M14.CA rail and a light-

VLTOR rail and light, and the front swivel was switched out with a rail section-

I never tried out the UltiMak, but they are supposed to be good.

On my M1A, I used a Versa Pod rail that replaced the sling loop and then an Arisaka 45* offset. Easy to hit the tail cap of a light with one's index finger.

Ultimak is good to go! I’ve got a standard with a ML2 on one

Shared this thread so he could read it thanks for the advice guys!

Those factors are why I sent out a Garand to get a .308 Mini-G conversion; roughly the same cost, and clips are substantially cheaper.

Between it, my Spanish Mauser, Ruger Scout, and Sako 85 Bavarian, a .308 carbine is a fantastically handy rifle.

Since an Ultimak rail was mentioned before:

@Seven-Shooter, Does the Ultimak rail stay cooler than the Springfield factory mount they supply on the Scout Squad rifles?

Nice rifle BTW.

If your hammering it they will soak up some heat but I’ve not had POI shift as a result.

Springfield mount is small and dense so it will absorb and hold alot of heat transferring it to the optic.  A larger less dense mount with smaller contact points to barrel will absorb less heat and  disperse heat buildup better as more surface is exposed to air cooling

I would imagine this is the correct answer.  I don't have an M1A scout to compare against, but if nothing else there's more surface area on an Ultimak, which should serve to help cool it off.  That being said, it also means it would get hotter than a regular handguard during shooting, so I guess it depends on what kinda shooting you're planning to do and how you hold and support your rifle.

Anything aluminum you mount there is going to get hot.
The regular wood handguards in 1960 would char and catch fire, which was why they switched to fiberglass handguards in the first place.

LOL!

I've had my M1 Garand handguard super hot as all the linseed oil bubbled and smoked as it boiled off.  The underside was ever so slightly charred.

Ironic. Bought my first M1A yesterday. SOCOM 16. Cant wait to try it out this weekend! Do it OP!!!!!
Anyone know the manufacture of the RMR mount for the rear on the top of the receiver? I would like to mount a Trijicon RMR on mine.

There are a couple of different options.
This one basically is an ACOG channel that you can use to mount the RMR in.
If you like Timmy's coffee and get your milk in bags this one might be for you, a big Pic rail that replaces your rear sight assembly. They make good stuff, but they are usually slow to respond and very slow to ship. The guy just moved his shop too I believe so I would confirm they're taking orders first.
The Sage version that replaces your clip slot, might be the best one.

Thank you.

Fun large caliber carbine to shoot. It's about the length of a Mini 14, but bulkier. And don't expect the accuracy like 22" barrel M1A/M14 could do though.