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Posted: 7/17/2022 2:31:20 PM EDT
I screwed up and tried to open my safe too many times on a low battery. Finally figured out the new battery I put in was bad also. Now I get three beeps with 5 minutes of beeping following with corresponding red light flashing.
The lock is a Kaba and the safe is a resolute made by Cannon for Fleet Farm. I know I am using the correct combo because both of my safes use the same number.....the factory set code. Anyone have any ideas before I start drilling and cutting? |
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I have a cannon. I can look through the manual tonight, but I’m at work for another 5 or 6 hours…
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Quoted: Contact the manufacturer? View Quote I checked on the cannon site and it sounds like it will take about a week with getting a form notarized and returned +30$ fee to get a master unlock code. I am thinking the lock mechanism is toast because it started running batteries down real fast. I have to have some papers out of it by Tuesday one way or another. |
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Do you have access to a super strong magnet?
There should be video's out there showing how to unlock it by using a magnet to actuate the solenoid. |
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I was surprised when my 5 yo grandson opened my winchester safe from Tractor Supply open just by turning the handle with a little force.
You might get a child to see if yours will open. |
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This may not help ... but ... a quick google search finds that wrong codes, repeated N times will lock down the unit, and it will just do nothing but issue a series of beeps every few minutes until it eventually resets.
Looks like the timeout is about 30 minutes. Try leaving it alone for 30 minutes, then try again?? |
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Quoted: This may not help ... but ... a quick google search finds that wrong codes, repeated N times will lock down the unit, and it will just do nothing but issue a series of beeps every few minutes until it eventually resets. Looks like the timeout is about 30 minutes. Try leaving it alone for 30 minutes, then try again?? View Quote I think that is how mine is supposed to work |
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Had a similar problem earlier this year. I ordered a new electronic lock, installed it and was able to get in my safe.
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Quoted: This may not help ... but ... a quick google search finds that wrong codes, repeated N times will lock down the unit, and it will just do nothing but issue a series of beeps every few minutes until it eventually resets. Looks like the timeout is about 30 minutes. Try leaving it alone for 30 minutes, then try again?? View Quote It seems to think I am entering the incorrect code with the 3 beeps. I have the correct code that I have always used ....the one that was in from the factory. I have left it overnight with and without the battery and no difference. |
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pull the battery, let it sit for an hour and put the battery back in?
thats what I did the last time with my Granite safe.... |
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Quoted: pull the battery, let it sit for an hour and put the battery back in? thats what I did the last time with my Granite safe.... View Quote Tried that numerous times....even let it sit with and without batt overnight. I have started drilling holes to get a borescope in there to see what I have to cut. |
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Quoted: Exactly why I switched from electronic safes many years ago. View Quote Luckily is the smaller and oldest of two safes I have. There are only a very few guns in it. I kept this one because the 50 bmg fits in it. Mostly have papers/cash and important papers in it. I already have been looking at changing the big one over to either a dial or keypad that has a backup key. Cutting into this is a pain in the rear. |
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My 30 yo safe with a S&G dial combo is running great. About 5 years ago, I needed another safe so bought another with the S&G lock. Three years in, I couldn't get it open. I thought I'd had a stroke and couldn't remember the combination. Finally had a locksmith out from where I'd bought it. The last part of the lock (fence?) fell off. The 'smith said it was never going to open via the dial after that. I had it replaced with an S&G keypad lock. Replace the battery every year to avoid these troubles.
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Quoted: Did you actually have to damage it to get in? I mean, does it need some kind of repair before you can replace the lock? View Quote Yes I cut around the lock mechanism. Now that it is open I can unbolt it and move it out . I will order a new lock and weld the door back together. I did find the problem tho. The solenoid inside wasn't unlatching....spring broke and stopped it from traveling far enuf. Must have overheated the circuit board? |
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Quoted: Exactly why I switched from electronic safes many years ago. View Quote My Amsec mechanical got so far out that I had to pay a locksmith to come and adjust it so I could open it without having to try 20 times. Now, to be fair... My overflow Winchester safe had the electronic lock go bad within months and under warranty it was fixed. I bought an Amsec mechanical to replace it (Long before I had to have my other safe serviced) but since I haven't had any trouble other that the battery dying when it was stored for a couple years I haven't bothered replacing it. |
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I think I am going to go with the electronic lock that has a weird looking backup key. Probably not as secure but at least a guy has another chance if the electric part fails. I have always had problems getting rotary combo locks open.
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My goodness.
Battery operated locks aren't for me. S&G combo with keyed lockout is they way I've been rolling for 50 years. Maybe I will go new school with a battery if it has wifi and a app I can use to get alerts if opened and unlock/lock from around the would. Would be kewl untill it doesn't work. Glad you busted into your safe. Attached File |
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Quoted: I haven't decided yet but just had seen a few on ebay. Do you know what one is fair quality? View Quote Of these available in the US I know honestly none which I would recommend. The LP or NL Duet swing/deadbolt has a mechanical combination lock and an electronic lock combined in one case. I think it has a UL rating and the security is ok, but there are so many fragile Zamak parts inside that I would worry about a lock-out. Then there is the lock often sold under the brand of Omega. It is available with key backup and also fingerprint option. Price on Alibaba is around $20 to $30. The security is awful. The developers just made sure that it appears to be a safe lock to the normal user. A lock which I don't have any experience about is the SecuRam Xtreme. It is also an electronic lock with mechanical combination backup. Also from a Chinese manufacturer, but the security seems to be ok. It might be at least partly UL listed. I didn't check. From the photos I expect the reliability to be better then the LP/NL Duet. I don't know any other lock sold in the US with mechanical backup. Of the three mentioned the Xtreme is probably the best. A better option would be a safe that supports two independent locks of which only one must be unlocked to open the safe. This type of boltwork is extremely rare. Amsec offers this as an option for some of its safe models. There might be others too. In my personal safe I use only mechanical locks, but for a business setup I use usually use a DormaKaba Code Combi B30/B90, which has a built in key backup. There is also a dual lock setup from Wittkopp with an electronic lock and a key lock, which requires a prepared boltwork. Both lock setups are AFAIK not sold in the US. Maybe someone here knows another option? |
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Thank you for the rundown.
I am not super concerned with absolute security I guess......more like something to slow them down. After cutting into this safe door I can see the safe is likely the weakest part. This is more of a overflow safe and my 50 BMG just happens to fit .....saves a lot of room in the big safe. I like the idea of a dial type lock but I have always had issues getting them open. |
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If you are not much concerned about security, then the Omega might be suitable for you. It does appear good enough like a safe lock to stop a dumb burglar.
PS: This is the lock I mean: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Digital-keypad-mechanical-key-electronic-lock_1600067204068.html https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/D-410K-Duotai-lock-Ambition-biometrics_721797764.html (No endorsement of Alibaba or that seller. In fact I don't like Alibaba at all.) |
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Quoted: If you are not much concerned about security, then the Omega might be suitable for you. It does appear good enough like a safe lock to stop a dumb burglar. PS: This is the lock I mean: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Digital-keypad-mechanical-key-electronic-lock_1600067204068.html https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/D-410K-Duotai-lock-Ambition-biometrics_721797764.html (No endorsement of Alibaba or that seller. In fact I don't like Alibaba at all.) View Quote That's the general style of lock (but not keypad) SecureIt uses on their later model Agile containers, with the keyhole for the "laser cut" key hidden behind the screw-on Agile nameplate. Thus, their key is not intended for routine access. It's there for when the battery dies or the lock otherwise shits the bed. |
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When the electronic lock on my Liberty safe failed it was $500 to have someone drill the safe and install a mechanical lock. He tried a new keypad to see if mine was bad, it wasn't. The logic portion of the lock located inside the safe door is what failed.
The locksmith I used was Liberty Safes authorized service provider in our area, he did a great job... |
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Quoted: When the electronic lock on my Liberty safe failed it was $500 to have someone drill the safe and install a mechanical lock. He tried a new keypad to see if mine was bad, it wasn't. The logic portion of the lock located inside the safe door is what failed. The locksmith I used was Liberty Safes authorized service provider in our area, he did a great job... View Quote |
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I had this happen to me in the same but different circumstances- Winchester instead of Canon, and Tractor Supply instead of your farm store lol.
I ended up calling a local safe specialist who told me wrong. Here's what I learned to do correctly and by myself... Order a replacement keypad that fits your safe (Google is your friend - mine was S&G I believe). Find how the keypad is attached to the door. Mine had a hidden screw that the safe specialist assured me couldn't be there. I ended up just ripping the keypad off after I tried pushing up to remove. The screw that was holding it on was visible after the fact, and I was able to unscrew and remove the broken part of keypad that it still had secured on. Then unplug the old and plug in the new. Make sure it works with fresh battery (should use your old code). Then attach keypad to door and done. This is what happened to me. Ymmv |
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