So it seems like a sign with what the LabRadar costs and what we'll be getting in covid cash soon.  But before I buy, I figured I'd double check to see how well it works with suppressed rounds.  In particular, I currently do a lot of load development with a suppressed 458 socom.  Some subsonic, some super.  I'll probably also get into long range in the next couple of years with a suppressed 6.5 or something similar.

I'd also like to know what else I need besides the base unit.  I have a tall tripod for my old competition electronics chrono and a Jackery battery pack that I use for camping.  Should I get a bench top tripod as well?  Any other accessories?

Thanks in advance.

In for replies. I started a similar thread in the silencer section about the same time.

It should be fine shooting with a suppressor.  You may need to plug in a remote microphone and place it closer to the muzzle so it will trigger.  I don't use a suppressor but that is how I've seen them used on various YouTube videos.  

On mine I taped a 1" piece of drinking straw to the v notch on top to make it easier to sight on the target.

ETA:  I still pack mine out to the desert in the original box.  LabRadar has a carrying case that you may consider.  A benchtop mount would be handy for shooting prone or if you have a large bench available.  I'm an old guy and don't shoot prone much anymore and just have a small portable bench so a tripod works fine.

Attached File

I have a LabRadar. I have not tested it for suppressed rounds; however, I am confident it will perform fine for that purpose. The LabRadar must be configured for one of three speed ranges. If you are shooting subsonic suppressed rounds, you will likely need to select the pistol speed range. I have a friend who shoots a Sharps 45-70 and that is the speed range we have used for his rifle.

Be careful with mounting the LabRadar on your tripod. The case plastic and mount is not as sturdy as should be.

I also recommend purchasing a USB battery pack (either the LabRadar branded one or a different one. I have used both an Anker brand and a LabRadar brand one. I purchased the LabRadar padded carrying case, but later moved to a Harbor Freight brand (Apache 2800) hard case. I like the hard case better. If I were making the decision again, I would have skipped the padded case. (I also would have purchased the next larger HF case (I think it is the Apache 3800).

Another item I bought was a Pic rail mount that attaches to the top of the LabRadar for mounting a cheap red dot sight. (http://swannyscompgear.com/labradar-pic-rail-red-dot-mount/) This helps with aligning the unit. The cheap taped-on drinking straw solution works -- I used it for a while -- I just wanted something else.

Lastly, I suggest buying an inertial trigger. If you shoot at a public range and have adjacent shooters, the unit can be triggered by their shots. The inertial trigger solves that problem. I found two offerings online, both which sold for approximately $50. Here is the one I purchased. (https://pietrecoiltrigger.com/)

Have they worked out the bugs on these yet?  Reviews seem dicey

https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/Silencers-and-labradars/20-519999/

I like the LR very much. I haul it to the range on every trip and collect data with it almost every opportunity.

The main “bugs” are that the Bluetooth connection is flaky and drops, and the internal trigger can be tricky and miss shots if the muzzle blast isn’t positioned just right.

The Bluetooth bug doesn’t have a fix that I know of, but I would still rather run the unit from a tablet or iPad than reach over to arm and disarm it so that I can stay in position on the gun. It also makes taking any notes much easier than using the display on the unit so I put up with the dropouts.

The fix for the missed shots with the internal trigger is an easy fix, and the one you will probably want to use for suppressed work. It is the JLK external trigger. This is leashed to the unit. It only needs to be touching the rig where it can pick up the shot pulse and it doesn’t affect the bbl harmonics or function of the gun. I just use rubber bands and some folks like Velcro.

I have several other chronograph units including optical and the Magnetospeed but still very much prefer the LR.

An external battery pack is a must, and most folks also use an SD card to store and move their data.. Since you already have a tripod, in addition to the external trigger, I would also recommend their mount that looks like a plate with a ball swivel so you have something for bench or table mounted work. This is very convenient and also works in the prone position.
ETA: If you don’t already have a small case for it, their case works very well for the unit plus that plate mount I mentioned earlier. It also has a pocket for storing extras like the JLK trigger, notepads, pens, SD cards, etc. So I also can recommend their carry case.

Good Luck and Happy New Year!

Set it on pistol and you shouldn't have an issue. Already been there and done it. Alignment is key. Do 50 yards for easier alignment.

Who has the best price on these?

I use the doppler trigger with subsonic .300 Blk suppressed. Velocity range must be set to "Pistol". Never had any issues.

Same question

Scheels, they ship free. Apologies dryflash. Should have IM'd them.

https://www.scheels.com/c/all/labradar

Midway is the same price.

FYI, you can make your own LabRadar triggers for $1ea.

1) Buy the motion sensors



2) Get a set of old headphones. Cut it and discard the ground/shielding wires wrapped around the inner wire.  Solder the inner wires from each side into the terminals on the motion sensors.

3) Plug in and enjoy!

My LR would not pick up 22 or 90% of my shots before, now it picks up almost every shot.  It's sensitive so you might get false triggers.  I don't care since I prefer to manually calculate all the stats on a spreadsheet where I make notes and record other metadata.

Skip the expensive premade, and make your own for about $5.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/labradar-recoil-trigger-diy.872618/

I bought the JKL trigger.   I have the skills to make my own, but I didn't bother.

It said backorder, but shipped pretty quick and I already have it.  I epoxied a hard drive magnet to it and just put it on the bottom of the barrel to trigger.

I tried all of the tricks and at a crowded range, there isn't a better solution than the recoil switch.  I was having missed shots with no can, a 16" barrel, and full house milspec loads.  It sucks when someone is looking over your shoulder to see your cool displayed velocity and there is an error message displayed.  

Don't attach it to the barrel, that's part of the reason you buy a LR vs Magnetospeed.  No POI shift.

Amazing LR didn't think of this solution themselves

I used mine the other day. Needed the "airgun" trigger for suppressor use. It's a 3.5mm mic and bent sheet metal bracket.

Could not test doppler trigger due to landscape. Book says it shouldn't work where I was using it. It didn't work. No hard feelings.

Once I got it setup, had one missed shot out of around 100.

This. Hated the labradar till I got the recoil switch.

Have now sold all other chronographs. I shoot suppressed .22 all the time. Recoil trigger works great

I take it the aux mic was not enough for quiet 22s?

It's enough that I can still be about 6" forward of the device and pick up suppressed centerfire. I couldn't read 17hmr suppressed even getting on level with the LR. Time crunch didn't let me test 17hmr-loud.

So far, still the best chrono I've used or seen.

That tiny little switch isn't going to affect much.

The magnet may slow down m855 projectiles.

Just got a labradar.

Got this tripod.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L6W1ZYK/

And will be building this trigger for less than $5 to shoot mostly suppressed. You literally just solder the sensor directly to the aux cable wires and then wrap in tape or heat shrink. Nothing as complicated as the JKL trigger.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/labradar-recoil-trigger-diy.872618/page-2

ETA:

Finished trigger.

I saw a discussion of switch bounce and debouncing circuits, which is why I just went with the JKL.  It will be interesting to see if a simple inertia switch works.  (I didn't read the entire thread at the link)

In that link the guys test switches with a resistor to absorb bounce, and just the straight switch. Didn't make any difference to the labradar, it seems to only take in the first small part of the impulse and ignores anything over a certain amount of time.