User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
USA
|
Posted: 4/8/2021 2:18:16 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Tao]
Internal mic trigger is meh. External mic trigger is meh. Doppler trigger is meh.
Vibration/recoil trigger is where it's at, so for about $3 made my own. Whipped up the housing in Fusion 360 and then printed it, pulled a 3 pin aux cable out of a drawer, bought some vibration sensors, and voila. Vibration sensors. -->These seem to be inconsistently in stock. Just search for 18020p vibration sensors. They shouldn't ever be more than $.75 a piece. Cut off one end, strip to expose wires. The vibration sensor is tucked into the middle of the knot, showing the center post wire and thinner coil wire.  Testing fit in cavity.  Solder tiny f'ing wires to tiny f'ing wires. Test wires with a meter on continuity. The ring at the base of the plug is ground, figure out which wire is ground, cut it off. The other two are L and R (in my cord those were the red and white wires, yellow was ground), doesn't matter which solders to which on the sensor, because all it's doing is completing a circuit when the gun recoils.  Bend sensor wires down to the sides, wrap in electrical tape.  Apply heat shrink, put some glue/epoxy down in hole, stuff wires into hole, then cap off with epoxy putty.  Goes on any rail, cross bolt is common 8-32 cut to length.  
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/8/2021 9:12:31 AM EDT
[Last Edit: drfroglegs]
[#1]
You have my attention...
Really cool OP. I've looked at a vibration sensor for my a half dozen times and just couldnt convince myself to buy it. I think I'll print this and give it a shot. Thanks! Do you have a link to the 3d print file or can you share it with me? Have you considered making a version with just a flat surface for a velcro attachment (like the one you can buy)? I would use it mostly on a bolt gun which doesn't have a rail. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/8/2021 9:26:12 AM EDT
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#2]
I thought about doing something similar with different sensitivities, but just spent the $30 on the commercial option. It has a picatinny adapter already and my time is worth way more than $30.
Very cool though OP. Just watch out on that solder. The white wire looks particularly suspect. Granted if it is all potted in Epoxy it likely won't matter but some stout recoil could otherwise undo that joint fairly easy I'd think. 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/8/2021 5:39:00 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Blowout]
[#3]
I've been thinking of doing just this, but didn't want to F up the LR by wiring it incorrectly. From reading other folks write ups on this, a mono plug doesn't work, it has to be a stereo plug. It that your understanding as well?
Just to confirm the wiring is: # 1 is abandoned, 2 & 3 are used for the connection. Is that correct?  Attached FileI haven't had any problems getting the LR to trigger, but I like to be prepared in just case it happens. Thanks for posting this! Edit: I do have questions on using this type of device... - Do you have to get the rifle in position and steady before activating the LR? - Does the vibration switch constantly trigger the LR when getting into position prior to the recoil of the gun? Edit 2: I would probably put some sort of a strain relief on the wire where it exits the 3D block. Heat shrink tubing or a tight coil spring and epoxy that to the block as well. |
|
|
|
USA
|
Posted: 4/10/2021 1:02:49 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Tao]
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout: I've been thinking of doing just this, but didn't want to F up the LR by wiring it incorrectly. From reading other folks write ups on this, a mono plug doesn't work, it has to be a stereo plug. It that your understanding as well? Yes, you need two wires so that when the vibration sensor closes, it completes the circuit and tells the LR to record. Just to confirm the wiring is: # 1 is abandoned, 2 & 3 are used for the connection. Is that correct? Yes, #1 in your picture is the ground. 2 and 3 are the left and right channels. Solder the sensor legs to 2 and 3. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/stereo_plug_JPG-1897668.JPG I haven't had any problems getting the LR to trigger, but I like to be prepared in just case it happens. Thanks for posting this! Edit: I do have questions on using this type of device... - Do you have to get the rifle in position and steady before activating the LR? Yes, cocking/loading is enough to trigger it. - Does the vibration switch constantly trigger the LR when getting into position prior to the recoil of the gun? Not constantly, but will trigger from sharp bumps. The sensor is a center post with a bouncy coil around it. When the coil touches the center post, it completes the circuit. If you get invalid readings they're easy to erase later and it's obvious which ones to delete. Edit 2: I would probably put some sort of a strain relief on the wire where it exits the 3D block. Heat shrink tubing or a tight coil spring and epoxy that to the block as well. |
|
|
USA
|
Posted: 4/10/2021 1:10:47 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Tao]
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By drfroglegs: Do you have a link to the 3d print file or can you share it with me? Have you considered making a version with just a flat surface for a velcro attachment (like the one you can buy)? I would use it mostly on a bolt gun which doesn't have a rail. I guess it's time to make a Thingiverse account. I'll post here when I upload it there. Shoot me an email and I'll share it with you in the meantime, the messenger here is a cluster. It would be easy to CAD a rectangle with a hole in it, but if you're using Cura, you can just set the Z axis to something like -3 so when it prints, the part that grabs the rail isn't printed and you're left with a large flat surface. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/10/2021 1:20:51 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tao: I guess it's time to make a Thingiverse account. I'll post here when I upload it there. Shoot me an email and I'll share it with you in the meantime, the messenger here is a cluster. It would be easy to CAD a rectangle with a hole in it, but if you're using Cura, you can just set the Z axis to something like -3 so when it prints, the part that grabs the rail isn't printed and you're left with a large flat surface. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tao: Originally Posted By drfroglegs: Do you have a link to the 3d print file or can you share it with me? Have you considered making a version with just a flat surface for a velcro attachment (like the one you can buy)? I would use it mostly on a bolt gun which doesn't have a rail. I guess it's time to make a Thingiverse account. I'll post here when I upload it there. Shoot me an email and I'll share it with you in the meantime, the messenger here is a cluster. It would be easy to CAD a rectangle with a hole in it, but if you're using Cura, you can just set the Z axis to something like -3 so when it prints, the part that grabs the rail isn't printed and you're left with a large flat surface. Email sent. Really appreciate the help! |
|
|
|
USA
|
Posted: 4/16/2021 8:31:30 PM EDT
[#7]
That's pretty cool. My labradar works fine but it can be fussy to set up. A great example of a fantastic idea held back by poor software and cheap hardware... seriously, their app is awful! And the build quality of the unit is very low for the cost.
Even so, it's the only commercial product that works like that and it is a fantastic chronograph. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/20/2021 10:34:00 AM EDT
[Last Edit: wildearp]
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: I thought about doing something similar with different sensitivities, but just spent the $30 on the commercial option. It has a picatinny adapter already and my time is worth way more than $30. Very cool though OP. Just watch out on that solder. The white wire looks particularly suspect. Granted if it is all potted in Epoxy it likely won't matter but some stout recoil could otherwise undo that joint fairly easy I'd think. That is Navy soldering, "the bigger the blob, the better the job".  I too, just bought the off the shelf version and epoxied a hard drive magnet to the side of it. OP did a nice bit of work there. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/20/2021 8:57:49 PM EDT
[#9]
That’s an amazing bit of development there. In particular, making a Pic mount for the sensor was extremely cool.
It kinda looks like any Pic rail adapter thing could host that sensor. And those of us who don’t have 3D printers (or know someone who does) could come up with a work around to do the same thing, just not be quite as cool. Maybe even an (gasp!) Airsoft scope mount holding some PVC pipe with the sensor glued inside it. It would have to hold the sensor properly, and that’s probably the biggest challenge, but it looks doable. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/22/2021 12:49:07 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: That's an amazing bit of development there. In particular, making a Pic mount for the sensor was extremely cool. It kinda looks like any Pic rail adapter thing could host that sensor. And those of us who don't have 3D printers (or know someone who does) could come up with a work around to do the same thing, just not be quite as cool. Maybe even an (gasp!) Airsoft scope mount holding some PVC pipe with the sensor glued inside it. It would have to hold the sensor properly, and that's probably the biggest challenge, but it looks doable. You could buy any UTG QD cheapo pic adapter and then just imbed the sensor in a blob of silicone RTV plastered to the adapter. That stuff sticks to anything. It is the same way we attach mirrors to aluminum for laser systems. 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/23/2021 8:25:35 AM EDT
[Last Edit: towerofpower94]
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wildearp: You could buy any UTG QD cheapo pic adapter and then just imbed the sensor in a blob of silicone RTV plastered to the adapter. That stuff sticks to anything. It is the same way we attach mirrors to aluminum for laser systems. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wildearp: Originally Posted By GHPorter: That's an amazing bit of development there. In particular, making a Pic mount for the sensor was extremely cool. It kinda looks like any Pic rail adapter thing could host that sensor. And those of us who don't have 3D printers (or know someone who does) could come up with a work around to do the same thing, just not be quite as cool. Maybe even an (gasp!) Airsoft scope mount holding some PVC pipe with the sensor glued inside it. It would have to hold the sensor properly, and that's probably the biggest challenge, but it looks doable. You could buy any UTG QD cheapo pic adapter and then just imbed the sensor in a blob of silicone RTV plastered to the adapter. That stuff sticks to anything. It is the same way we attach mirrors to aluminum for laser systems. Kinda what I was thinking. I Velcro'd a piece pic rail cover to my recoil trigger as every AR I own, save for one .22lr upper, has at least one section of pic rail on it. If I want to use it on something like an AK with no rail, I just take off the pic rail cover "mount", temporarily stick a piece of loop Velcro to the handguard or the like so the trigger has something to grab onto, and remove it when finished getting velocity data. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/23/2021 12:43:35 PM EDT
[#12]
I was wondering if the orientation of the sensor would be critical.
From the design I would assume if positioned perpendicular to the barrel it would have the maximum sensitivity to recoil. The OP's device seems to orient the sensor that way.  Attached File Attached File |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/23/2021 2:26:45 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout: I was wondering if the orientation of the sensor would be critical. From the design I would assume if positioned perpendicular to the barrel it would have the maximum sensitivity to recoil. The OP's device seems to orient the sensor that way. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/shake_sensor_JPG-1915818.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/shake_sensor_1_JPG-1915819.JPG You guys are over thinking it...  Advanced Mounting options for your Labradar Recoil trigger PietRecoilTrigger.com |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/23/2021 3:58:41 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AKSnowRider: You guys are over thinking it...  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1vL9y72vdgcIsn't that what these threads are all about.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/23/2021 4:52:53 PM EDT
[#15]
First trip out today with my JKL recoil trigger. I have a hard drive magnet glued to it. I had it on an AR barrel shooting 5.56 at 3000 fps. I saw something out of the corner of my eye around shot number 50. My trigger split at the seam the the cover flew off. It snapped right back together and now I am adding more glue.
Why does this shit always happen to me? Do people test shit? Do people actually shoot?   |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/23/2021 6:44:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wildearp: First trip out today with my JKL recoil trigger. I have a hard drive magnet glued to it. I had it on an AR barrel shooting 5.56 at 3000 fps. I saw something out of the corner of my eye around shot number 50. My trigger split at the seam the the cover flew off. It snapped right back together and now I am adding more glue. Why does this shit always happen to me? Do people test shit? Do people actually shoot? My JKL has over two thousand rounds on it. Probably closer to 3000. Works great still. Handles the 458S no issue.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/25/2021 7:18:06 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AKSnowRider: You guys are over thinking it... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1vL9y72vdgcThat’s who I got mine from over on SnipersHide years ago. He actually designed and sold the first ones, which were copied by a larger retailer, right? Been using his for thousands of rounds, up to and including 338LM, with no signs of his 3D printed housing coming apart. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/26/2021 7:49:28 PM EDT
[#18]
To me, it looks like whatever method you use to mount the trigger, it needs to be solidly enough attached that it doesn’t falsely trigger from vibrations - working the action, Bubba next to you plopping an ammo can on the bench, that sort of thing. I like clean signals; they remove ambiguity and thus improve accuracy and reliability of the data.
I don’t know how well Labradar handles extraneous inputs on its trigger, but from a software perspective, if it isn’t built to ignore all sorts of garbage inputs, it could get “confused” and mess up your data. With that said, it looks like the guy in the video has good outcomes with sort of sticking his Piet trigger “kinda-sorta” somewhere on the rifle. I mean, he sticks it on his dope card...so it looks like the radar can handle lots of garbage and noisy trigger signals without a big problem. Still, if it was me, I’d be fastening it pretty hard to some pretty hard part of the rifle. A really strong magnet on the barrel, or as I noted earlier, a Pic-mount scope ring, would make me feel more comfortable that my triggers were going to be accurately recorded. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/26/2021 8:23:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: drfroglegs]
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: To me, it looks like whatever method you use to mount the trigger, it needs to be solidly enough attached that it doesn’t falsely trigger from vibrations - working the action, Bubba next to you plopping an ammo can on the bench, that sort of thing. I like clean signals; they remove ambiguity and thus improve accuracy and reliability of the data. I don’t know how well Labradar handles extraneous inputs on its trigger, but from a software perspective, if it isn’t built to ignore all sorts of garbage inputs, it could get “confused” and mess up your data. With that said, it looks like the guy in the video has good outcomes with sort of sticking his Piet trigger “kinda-sorta” somewhere on the rifle. I mean, he sticks it on his dope card...so it looks like the radar can handle lots of garbage and noisy trigger signals without a big problem. Still, if it was me, I’d be fastening it pretty hard to some pretty hard part of the rifle. A really strong magnet on the barrel, or as I noted earlier, a Pic-mount scope ring, would make me feel more comfortable that my triggers were going to be accurately recorded. It is very easy to delete data points directly on the Labrada and it will recalculate the statistics in real time. I wouldn't be concerned too much with false positives in the grand scheme of things, I'm way more concerned with missing data points! I've been waiting for the sensors to be back in stock so I can print one. OP shared his files with me, but the sensors haven't been in stock since he posted this thread. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/27/2021 7:42:30 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: To me, it looks like whatever method you use to mount the trigger, it needs to be solidly enough attached that it doesn’t falsely trigger from vibrations - working the action, Bubba next to you plopping an ammo can on the bench, that sort of thing. I like clean signals; they remove ambiguity and thus improve accuracy and reliability of the data. I don’t know how well Labradar handles extraneous inputs on its trigger, but from a software perspective, if it isn’t built to ignore all sorts of garbage inputs, it could get “confused” and mess up your data. With that said, it looks like the guy in the video has good outcomes with sort of sticking his Piet trigger “kinda-sorta” somewhere on the rifle. I mean, he sticks it on his dope card...so it looks like the radar can handle lots of garbage and noisy trigger signals without a big problem. Still, if it was me, I’d be fastening it pretty hard to some pretty hard part of the rifle. A really strong magnet on the barrel, or as I noted earlier, a Pic-mount scope ring, would make me feel more comfortable that my triggers were going to be accurately recorded. You can still get a false trigger with the accelerometer, but far fewer than say the external mic on a windy day trying to chrono suppressed rifles. This became the bane of my existence one summer and is what lead me to buy the recoil trigger as soon as I found out about it. I have mine mounted on a piece of pic rail cover and it's very solidly attached to the rifle. I do wonder if a less rigid mounting solution could actually benefit the shooter, as it might have a bit of give when you're running the bolt or the like and not give you a false event? Not sure either way, but I love mine. Have only used the external mic for suppressed pistols since getting the recoil trigger. |
|
|
|
USA
|
Posted: 5/5/2021 1:42:22 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Tao]
[#21]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/5/2021 12:25:25 PM EDT
[#22]
Cool! Anyone with access to a printer or a friend with a printer should really appreciate your work.
I gotta find out if I actually know anyone who has a 3D printer. The past year has sort of disconnected me from what my friends and acquaintances have been up to… |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/30/2021 10:29:48 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By drfroglegs: It is very easy to delete data points directly on the Labrada and it will recalculate the statistics in real time. I wouldn't be concerned too much with false positives in the grand scheme of things, I'm way more concerned with missing data points! I've been waiting for the sensors to be back in stock so I can print one. OP shared his files with me, but the sensors haven't been in stock since he posted this thread. This is a thread worthy of a bump. Found sensors on eBay. Now to find someone with a 3D printer. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/30/2021 11:09:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By r45d: This is a thread worthy of a bump. Found sensors on eBay. Now to find someone with a 3D printer. @GHPorter @r45d What color you want? 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/30/2021 11:16:32 PM EDT
[#25]
I used these:
Encased it in clear epoxy and used a velcro cable wrap so I can attach it to any gun. So far has worked great for everything from paintball to 50 BMG. Can't believe Labradar didn't make one themselves. The chrono without one is extremely unreliable. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/30/2021 11:18:58 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout: I was wondering if the orientation of the sensor would be critical. From the design I would assume if positioned perpendicular to the barrel it would have the maximum sensitivity to recoil. The OP's device seems to orient the sensor that way. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/shake_sensor_JPG-1915818.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/shake_sensor_1_JPG-1915819.JPG Mine are usually parallel with the bore but I don't think it matters much. Enough shock to trip them regardless of orientation. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 8:35:00 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tao: Finally made an account. Here ya go, ya filthy animals. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4849629 @Tao How many perimeters are you using? Does it snap over the pic rail okay or do you have to slide it on? |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 11:13:00 AM EDT
[#28]
If you're worried about false triggers you could put a switch in line. So after the shot you hit the switch to turn it off.
You just have to remember to turn it on and off each time. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 12:05:34 PM EDT
[#29]
FWIW: JKL replaced my trigger. I immediately cracked open the covers and added epoxy. Now I have a repaired unit and a backup. I probably should have used silicone to glue it to the magnet, rather than epoxy. Some rubber isolation might have prevented the split.
I need to check for a Labradar software update. Mine keeps loosing bluetooth connectivity with either my phone or my Kindle. Anyone know if they have fixed this well known issue with the last update? I will hopefully be sighting in a friend's new Browning 7mm mag tomorrow, so I should have all the gear out for some fresh picture entertainment for this thread.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 12:51:06 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wildearp: FWIW: JKL replaced my trigger. I immediately cracked open the covers and added epoxy. Now I have a repaired unit and a backup. I probably should have used silicone to glue it to the magnet, rather than epoxy. Some rubber isolation might have prevented the split. I need to check for a Labradar software update. Mine keeps loosing bluetooth connectivity with either my phone or my Kindle. Anyone know if they have fixed this well known issue with the last update? I will hopefully be sighting in a friend's new Browning 7mm mag tomorrow, so I should have all the gear out for some fresh picture entertainment for this thread. Not sure when the last update was posted, but the last time I updated it, it didn't fix the issue. I just stopped using the app. I wonder if it's a hardware issue of some sort. It does it with the Android app too. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 12:52:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#31]
@r45d
Here is one. I'm reprinting it and sending you two. I didn't run enough orange through before printing and some of the black I was using before made the first layer a bit darker. Doh!  Attached File |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 12:57:19 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottyPotty: If you're worried about false triggers you could put a switch in line. So after the shot you hit the switch to turn it off. You just have to remember to turn it on and off each time. Or simply press the arm button on the unit |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 1:04:37 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Trash_Panda: Or simply press the arm button on the unit Reaching across all your shit to hit the arm button and possibly changing the aim of the unit is a pain. Using a phone or Kindle makes this much easier, except for that issue with the bluetooth dropping off all the time. Then you have to reach across all your shit to disarm anyway. Maybe just a few times less. 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 1:06:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: wildearp]
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Not sure when the last update was posted, but the last time I updated it, it didn't fix the issue. I just stopped using the app. I wonder if it's a hardware issue of some sort. It does it with the Android app too. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 1:13:04 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wildearp: My phone stays connected in my vehicles and rental cars, so if it is a hardware issue, it is in the Labradar. They effectively have no competition right now, so they aren't compelled to improve their product. The Kindle is much easier to manipulate than an iphone. Yep, I meant in the LR. Sorry if that wasn't clear. I had the issue on my iPhone 6s, iPad Pro, and now the Galaxy Note20+. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 1:13:17 PM EDT
[#36]
What a guy!
Looks perfect. I can gift one to a friend who also has a lab radar. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 1:43:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: drfroglegs]
[#37]
Glad this was bumped, I never printed it after the original source of switches went oos.
Just ordered some from the new link posted and will print some. If anyone needs a 3D printed part let me know, I don't mind printing out some and mailing them too as long as you're patient with when I can get them mailed. There's also a design for a housing that takes magnets. I will probably make a few different ones for the different platforms. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4850255 |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 1:44:33 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By r45d: What a guy! Looks perfect. I can gift one to a friend who also has a lab radar.  Only downside is you have to slide it onto the rail. I might try to take a crack at crating a variant with a split pic section that can allow dropping it onto a rail vs sliding in, but don't want to step on Tao's toes. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 1:48:32 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Only downside is you have to slide it onto the rail. I might try to take a crack at crating a variant with a split pic section that can allow dropping it onto a rail vs sliding in, but don't want to step on Tao's toes. I would love to see a simple box design like the JKL trigger. I will probably mount with velcro or magnets for my bolt rifles (no rail) so a flat bottom design would be nice. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 1:52:31 PM EDT
[Last Edit: wildearp]
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By drfroglegs: I would love to see a simple box design like the JKL trigger. I will probably mount with velcro or magnets for my bolt rifles (no rail) so a flat bottom design would be nice.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 2:14:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wildearp: The JKL appears to be two printed shells with the inside matching the sensor and wire with tight tolerance. The shells snap together. Probably patented or something, but that doesn't matter for a DIY thing. I doubt JKL patented it, but maybe I'm wrong. I can create a version that screws together (better!) and can print a TPU pic mount. Does anyone have a loose sensor laying around that can give me dimensions? I can make an open box concept and let people pot it themselves. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 2:21:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#42]
@r45d
Let me know if you want these. I did confirm they do not fit on a captured pic mount. They don't flex enough to allow the ear to slip around. They do slide into non-captured rails though. I can send them or if you want I can take a crack at drawing up my own design and send you one of those instead. Your call.  Attached File |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 2:26:54 PM EDT
[Last Edit: drfroglegs]
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: I doubt JKL patented it, but maybe I'm wrong. I can create a version that screws together (better!) and can print a TPU pic mount. Does anyone have a loose sensor laying around that can give me dimensions? I can make an open box concept and let people pot it themselves. It's pretty easy to check... US Patent Law REQUIRES that a product covered by a patent be marked with it's respective patent number. If it's patented, it will be on the product (or packaging). If not, it's not patented (or they're breaking the law). I would be shocked if a rectangular box that holds things is patented (I work in IP and have quite a good understanding of how patentability works). |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 3:50:08 PM EDT
[#44]
Thanks for posting this, I just ordered some sensors. Looks like a fun project.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 4:09:44 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By drfroglegs: I would love to see a simple box design like the JKL trigger. I will probably mount with velcro or magnets for my bolt rifles (no rail) so a flat bottom design would be nice. I started with the TPU Trigger "holder" if you will. Trigger will be flat, and will slip into this to mount on a picatinny. Want to make sure I get this to be the right dimensions as it's a bit harder to make a decent print with TPU. Box I think I have more leeway with.  Attached File |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 5:03:47 PM EDT
[#46]
@-obsessed-
Send it. If nothing else I’ll dremel off one side and replace with a washer nut and bolt. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 7:37:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Tao]
[#47]
Put new link to the sensors in OP.
Just search for 18020p vibration sensors. They shouldn't ever be more than $.75 a piece. Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: @Tao How many perimeters are you using? Does it snap over the pic rail okay or do you have to slide it on? I usually have 3 walls at .8mm. You'd have to print in TPU for it to be flexible at all. This printed in PLA means no flex and you have to slide it onto the rail. Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: I might try to take a crack at crating a variant with a split pic section that can allow dropping it onto a rail vs sliding in, but don't want to step on Tao's toes. Dude, if you can improve anything by remixing, do it. My skills with fusion 360 are more or less equivalent to slapping my junk against the keyboard and hoping for the best. Splitting one side of my design off makes perfect sense, so you can loosen the cross bolt, set it on the rail, and then tighten both halves together. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 8:05:44 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Does anyone have a loose sensor laying around that can give me dimensions? I can make an open box concept and let people pot it themselves. These 18020P sensors I have are: 12mm long (just the body) 23.3mm long (body + wires) 4.45mm wide |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/1/2021 11:51:16 PM EDT
[#49]
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/2/2021 8:59:46 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Trash_Panda: LOL, you guys are way overthinking this https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/482114/2021-07-01_13_05_31_jpg-1998760.JPG Needs an orange Velcro strap. What wiring did you use? |
|
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
Attached File