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Posted: 6/14/2023 2:43:48 PM EDT
Just arrived ... this should go together in an hour or two, tops. The stock finishing will take hours, however.
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Posted: 6/15/2023 9:57:28 AM EDT
[#1]
Nice wood, gonna be a looker.
eta: it's even got figure stripes under the nose cap! |
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Posted: 6/15/2023 10:09:19 PM EDT
[#2]
I never realized they do so much for you. All the inletting and dovetails..that will really speed up the process.
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Posted: 6/15/2023 10:31:43 PM EDT
[#3]
Nice. Want to see it complete.
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Posted: 6/16/2023 2:36:25 PM EDT
[#4]
37 minutes to stick it all together, piece of cake - even including polishing the brass with a 3M fine abrasive pad. Now to take it all apart, sand the wood (150, 220, 320), aqua fortis stain, Tru-Oil finish.
 
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Posted: 6/17/2023 3:19:05 PM EDT
[#5]
Completely disassembled, stock sanded 150-220-320, iron nitrate up next.
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Posted: 6/17/2023 3:35:14 PM EDT
[#6]
Gorgeous. Can't wait to see it with finish on it
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Posted: 6/17/2023 4:13:47 PM EDT
[#7]
Iron nitrate washed on and drying ... ain't dat such a purty color or what??? LOL!!!
  
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Posted: 6/17/2023 4:35:24 PM EDT
[#8]
I'd be tempted to do something snake-like with that forestock stain/inclusion/whatever it is.
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Posted: 6/17/2023 5:13:25 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'd be tempted to do something snake-like with that forestock stain/inclusion/whatever it is. That's a mineral stain and when the aqua fortis gets heat gunned in it'll begin to darken it, then the Tru-Oil will Really Darken everything a Deep Brown with the harder wood that's between the stripes lightening up a bit. The full snake is on the starboard side only, and the port side has a tiny sliver of it close the top edge by the bbl. Every stock is somewhat different as to how it will accept any stain and any clear coat, it's a bit of a crap shoot. Heat gunned ... stripes won't be visible until the oil goes on ...  
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Posted: 6/17/2023 5:24:02 PM EDT
[#10]
Lots hasta do with stock wood hardness. The harder the wood, the less the areas between the tiger stripes will absorb stain or iron nitrate, The Colonial .54 I completed a few years ago is a good example of this, but I tend to like darker stocks with more muted stripes.
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Posted: 6/17/2023 8:34:03 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'd be tempted to do something snake-like with that forestock stain/inclusion/whatever it is. I love that snake inclusion. |
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Posted: 6/17/2023 10:18:28 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I love that snake inclusion. I'd intentionally go for a light finish so the fangs and rattles I'd add to it would stand out. 
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Posted: 6/18/2023 9:24:12 AM EDT
[#13]
Indians would probably have said the stock had "medicine".
They say they couldn't sell a Trade Gun without the dragon lock plate. |
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Posted: 6/18/2023 9:53:39 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Indians would probably have said the stock had "medicine". They say they couldn't sell a Trade Gun without the dragon lock plate. Yep, they loved dragon side plates, but for the extreme most part they were almost all smoothbores and not rifles. Almost all long guns of the 18th century were fowlers (smoothbores) simply because they were more versatile and could be loaded with shot or bullet. It's a fact that 99.9% or better of all 18th century military firearms were smoothbores because they have a greater rate of fire than rifles. Yes, there were riflemen on both sides of the American Revolution, and they had a special purpose unlike the foot soldiers, It's on record that if you attempted to join Washington's army with a rifle it was replaced with a smoothbore. |
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Posted: 6/19/2023 2:18:48 PM EDT
[#15]
If Kibler would make a little light fusil de chasse that would be my next flintlock.
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Posted: 6/19/2023 3:21:39 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If Kibler would make a little light fusil de chasse that would be my next flintlock. It will happen, but will take years if not a decade or so. As Jim perfects his stock and metal automation, the time frame for more designs narrows. Clearly, his Woodsrunner process is his template for future offerings. |
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Posted: 6/20/2023 8:21:34 AM EDT
[#17]
I read somewhere that Kibler is working on an English fowler. Doesn't appeal to me as much as a French "fuzee", but we'll see.
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Posted: 6/20/2023 8:46:16 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I read somewhere that Kibler is working on an English fowler. Doesn't appeal to me as much as a French "fuzee", but we'll see. That was about 2 years or more ago. I do believe that Jim's end goal is to offer a full lineup of full 18th and early 19th century firearm styles, but it will take time, perhaps another decade, and his goal may need to be tempered as the political environment unfolds. |
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Posted: 6/23/2023 8:10:26 PM EDT
[#19]
All done save for rubbing in a beeswax protective finish.
Been raining the last four days, just waiting for some sunshine to take proper daylight images and baptize this little .54 popper under fire.       |
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Posted: 6/23/2023 9:00:07 PM EDT
[#20]
Very nice!
Tell me about the planned beeswax finish. How to you prep/prepare it for application? |
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Posted: 6/23/2023 9:37:42 PM EDT
[#21]
A real stunner. Beautiful. Good work.
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Posted: 6/24/2023 5:41:06 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Very nice! Tell me about the planned beeswax finish. How to you prep/prepare it for application? I use filtered beeswax (bee parts removed) and rub directly onto the stock, then "burnish" the wax in with a cotton cloth. |
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Posted: 6/24/2023 5:54:56 AM EDT
[#23]
Anyone wanting to roll their own flintlock rifle/smoothbore, and you have very little experience building these guns but you know the difference 'tween a hammer and screwdriver, GET THE WOODSRUNNER KIT. It practically builds itself and the quality of EVERYTHING is nothing short of superb. Cost? The plain maple or cherry wood kit is $1200 + shipping (shipped in a stout wooden box). Calibers offered are .45, .50, or .54 in either rifled or smooth. Finished .54 is 7-1/4lbs. Add some 3F REAL black powder, some balls and lubed patches, a few extra flints, and yer good to go for plinking or hunting skwerls to moose. I can't say enuf good things about the Woodsrunner kit, it's a complete break-through for a trad muzzleloader flinter kit, nothing anywhere comes close to it ... hell, I'm getting another, this time in .45 and cherry wood.
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Posted: 6/24/2023 7:45:08 AM EDT
[#24]
XrfdX, What is the weight of the .45?
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Posted: 6/24/2023 7:48:01 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: XrfdX, What is the weight of the .45? Probably 7-3/4lbs. |
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Posted: 6/24/2023 11:03:07 AM EDT
[#26]
I may just get another one, in .45, maybe in walnut, build it as a keeper for me, non-traditional. Polyu finish the wood, parkerize all the steel, peep sights, and put wedge keys in place of the pins. Sort of an AR guys flinter lol. Traditionalists would puke.
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Posted: 6/24/2023 11:25:00 AM EDT
[#27]
When it comes to traditional muzzleloaders, I see it as three camps ...
- The Purists who angst over every minute detail that must conform to some 18th century dictum that never existed in the first place. Truth is, as I've researched it, much of what happened with fire sticks in that era, and even before it, wasn't about ornate super crafted rifles, it was all about utilitarian smoothbores for the commoner/farmer (99% of all colonists were farmers, there was no other choice). - The Commoners who want good guns sans the bling - no carving or dodads. - The Modern Interpreters who have no ties to back-in-the-day and do their own thing with regards to wood, furniture, finishing. I'm a Commoner, but I fully respect anyone's conceptualization of what's in their mind's eye concerning an 18th century flinter. Just as in the 18th and 19th centuries, where subjectivity greatly abounded; as it should have occurred and as expected from humanity. |
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Posted: 6/24/2023 3:49:06 PM EDT
[#28]
Sun finally peeked out ...
    
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Posted: 6/25/2023 12:55:25 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Sun finally peeked out ... I got some significant darkening from leaving mine out in he sun some. |
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Posted: 6/25/2023 12:59:08 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I got some significant darkening from leaving mine out in he sun some. What finishing process did you employ? |
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Posted: 6/25/2023 1:02:39 PM EDT
[#31]
Iron nitrate, blush w/heat gun, fully filled grain with saturation coats of Permalyn, wet sanded down to the grain w/400 wet or dry with mineral oil, then 2 super thin finger-rubbed coats of Tried & True Varnish.
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Posted: 6/25/2023 1:59:55 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Iron nitrate, blush w/heat gun, fully filled grain with saturation coats of Permalyn, wet sanded down to the grain w/400 wet or dry with mineral oil, then 2 super thin finger-rubbed coats of Tried & True Varnish. As seen in more than a few of the remaining guns from the 18th and 19th centuries, they got blackened over the decades all on their own. Probably the nitric acid wasn't fully neutralized. You might need need to strip the current finish, get down to the wood and use baking soda to both neutralize and hopefully lighten up (rub out) the existing dark stain and then reapply a new finish, but that's my guess since I don't know what iron nitrate formula you've used. Some of the currently labeled "aqua fortis" stains are using ferric nitrate instead of iron nitrate and don't really need any neutralizing. Kibler iron nitrate is what I use and I don't neutralize, but I do rub it out a bit before finishing with Tru-Oil. |
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Posted: 6/25/2023 3:41:57 PM EDT
[#33]
I used the Kibler iron nitrate.
 Lol ain't no stripping gonna happen any time soon I'm shooting the mutha even if it turns jet black haha.
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