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Posted: 6/14/2018 2:57:34 PM EDT
I just got a AN/PVS-7A night vision goggles but it didn't come with a image intensifier which I don't mind as I can pick one up and install it for a semi decent price. My question is and put away any bias towards the PVS7 goggle and tell me if this is a good night vision goggles? . I'm not gonna say what I paid but what would you say is a normal price for The AN/ PVS-7A model
I would really like your guys opinions on the quality of this model of night vision goggles  " />
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Posted: 6/14/2018 3:27:41 PM EDT
[#1]
"Good" is subjective.
I spent many hours behind 7s doing Army stuff. Are there better goggles? Of course. Are they no good? I think they're OK depending on the intended use. |
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Posted: 6/14/2018 3:32:12 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
"Good" is subjective. I spent many hours behind 7s doing Army stuff. Are there better goggles? Of course. Are they no good? I think they're OK depending on the intended use. |
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Posted: 6/14/2018 3:59:04 PM EDT
[#3]
If you have time, there are many threads with info on this. What is good enough is in the eye of the beholder.
In a larger sense, yes, there's is nothing "wrong" with a good pair of -7's. Price point is around 2K for a good set, with tube. Since you don't have one, you have the opportunity to get an upgrade to gen 3 if you want. Or stick with good gen 2, gen 2+. Lots of choices and price range there. I was the same, in that I only had gen 1 active duty, so yeah, anything would be an upgrade from there. It was good gear for it's time. Still is, I suppose, acknowledging that time has marched on and there's better. I would say that most guys getting into NV these days are getting -14 systems, just because it's the right combination of capability, price, weight, and helmet-mountable. With that being said, there are still guys who use and even prefer -7's. If you are just dabbling, and this deal fell into your lap, no worries; go find a nice tube and have fun. |
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Posted: 6/15/2018 4:33:15 AM EDT
[#4]
"Good" or not depends on your intended use: hiking, driving, etc., the -7s are good.
Shooting through an optic: not so good due to the centrally mounted tube. |
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Posted: 6/15/2018 9:00:45 PM EDT
[#5]
In addition to what others have said about how "good" the PVS-7 is relative to other other options--the PVS-7A model housing you have there is it's own little special thing.
On the one hand, because of the relative rarity of the PVS-7A/C models compared to the more common PVS-7B/D variants, it could be very valuable to an NV collector. On the other hand, if something breaks, and/or there are parts missing besides the tube, it could be very difficult and possibly expensive to find parts to repair it, not to mention someone who is familiar enough with the Litton A/Cs to trust assembling it--I wouldn't necessarily send them to just anyone who says "yeah, sure, I've built lots of PVS-7s!" Ed Wilcox may be a good guy to start with, but I've never spoken with him specifically about Litton 7A/Cs. Also, just as a final note--the PVS-7A/Cs do not use the standard USGI bayonet/horn interface--you'll actually need to get a dovetail mount to mount it to a helmet/Night Cap, if you look at that photograph of the head-mount you posted, notice how similar that dovetail shoe looks to some more familiar looking mounts these days. 
I actually talked to a guy recently about these, who wanted to know why there was a modern-looking "Wilcox" NVG mount in his circa-1997 HK promotional photograph for the MK 23 MOD 0. 
~Augee |
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Posted: 6/16/2018 3:06:50 PM EDT
[#6]
Agree with all points here. And ed can definately work on 7a/c's. Whether or not he can get parts is another question entirely. Optically I think the 7a/c are a bit better than the B's and I far prefer the dovetail and litton type facemasks compared to the ol ITT skullcrusher.
As for tubes, one thing to be aware of is that they wont take the 10130B tubes with the flat pin contacts. You need either an A type with pin holes or C/D tubes with both interfaces, which are the most common these days. Oh, apeaking of parts if anone has a lenscap set for one im interested. |
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Posted: 6/16/2018 4:36:38 PM EDT
[#7]
Will this tube work in the PVS 7 A housing?
 Attached FileI am hoping so because I bought that tube and the housing above 
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Posted: 6/16/2018 6:33:37 PM EDT
[#8]
When it comes to that tube fitting into the pvs-7A, it can work, but unless modification is performed to the tube, the objective lens assembly will not seat back onto the wired body far enough to allow the threaded ring to grab the threads on the objective lens assembly and it will not be able to be secured to the wired body. The modification you would need to perform is removal of the three anti rotation lugs on the backplate of the tube on which the tube hybrud tube vmvontacts are located. The pad/socket contacts. Removal of the three lugs will allow the objective lens assembly to seat on far enough to allow the threaded ring to thread some of fhe way on to the objecrive lens assembly, but still not completely. However, it will be threaded on enough to secure the obj. Lens assembly to the wired body and the tube will power on. The reason thisntube wont allow the objective to fit all the way back onnis simply because the A variant was the first variant to be produced and was made to fit the mx-10130A gen 3 or the mx-18281 gen 2. The tube you have didnt come into production until years later. The first and only pvs-7 Variant that cann accomodate all variants of the mx-10130 tube(A,B,C,Dand E) is the PVS-7C. It is almost identical to the PVS-7A but not exactly the same. There are subtle changes to allow for the accomodation of all the 10130 tube variants.
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Posted: 6/16/2018 6:35:26 PM EDT
[#9]
H I got a ton of caps for the objectives and rhe eyepieces.
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Posted: 6/16/2018 6:46:57 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
When it comes to that tube fitting into the pvs-7A, it can work, but unless modification is performed to the tube, the objective lens assembly will not seat back onto the wired body far enough to allow the threaded ring to grab the threads on the objective lens assembly and it will not be able to be secured to the wired body. The modification you would need to perform is removal of the three anti rotation lugs on the backplate of the tube on which the tube hybrud tube vmvontacts are located. The pad/socket contacts. Removal of the three lugs will allow the objective lens assembly to seat on far enough to allow the threaded ring to thread some of fhe way on to the objecrive lens assembly, but still not completely. However, it will be threaded on enough to secure the obj. Lens assembly to the wired body and the tube will power on. The reason thisntube wont allow the objective to fit all the way back onnis simply because the A variant was the first variant to be produced and was made to fit the mx-10130A gen 3 or the mx-18281 gen 2. The tube you have didnt come into production until years later. The first and only pvs-7 Variant that cann accomodate all variants of the mx-10130 tube(A,B,C,Dand E) is the PVS-7C. It is almost identical to the PVS-7A but not exactly the same. There are subtle changes to allow for the accomodation of all the 10130 tube variants. So just grind down those three dimples and it will work all though the lock ring won't screw down 100%. Is the that correct? |
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Posted: 6/16/2018 8:10:59 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Will this tube work in the PVS 7 A housing? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/432670/20180528_185059-558235-577796.JPG I am hoping so because I bought that tube and the housing above |
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Posted: 6/17/2018 12:32:11 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yup. It has holes. Ive got 2 7A's that work fine with C/D tubes. Everytything screws together and focuses. I thought the C/D tubes were supposed to be universal? ETA. Maybe some A's were modified later on to use C tubes?? Because none of the A's I have had would accomodate those positioning lugs. Without removung them the tube sat too high and the objective lens assembly would not thread on. |
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Posted: 6/17/2018 1:27:56 AM EDT
[#13]
here are some pictures of the A I currently have and what happens when i install a C/D tube into the wired body.
No matching holes in tge rear surface of tube cavity for the anti-rotation lugs to fit into 
tube doesnt sit as far down into the Cavity as a 10130A tube would. 
The objective lens assembly doesnt seat all the way and the positioning slot on the obj. Lens assembly does not interlock with the lug on the wired body. 
This is the what it should look like when fully seated. This is with a 10130A tube installed. 
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Posted: 6/17/2018 9:51:49 PM EDT
[#14]
thanks, I look forward to messing with the pvs 7a.
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Posted: 6/18/2018 10:50:12 PM EDT
[#15]
Also, just as a final note--the PVS-7A/Cs do not use the standard USGI bayonet/horn interface--you'll actually need to get a dovetail mount to mount it to a helmet/Night Cap, if you look at that photograph of the head-mount you posted, notice how similar that dovetail shoe looks to some more familiar looking mounts these days.
~Augee FYI I have a set of PVS-7A’s and they fit and lock into a WILCOX L4 G24 helmet mount perfectly. |
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Posted: 6/18/2018 11:28:06 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Also, just as a final note--the PVS-7A/Cs do not use the standard USGI bayonet/horn interface--you'll actually need to get a dovetail mount to mount it to a helmet/Night Cap, if you look at that photograph of the head-mount you posted, notice how similar that dovetail shoe looks to some more familiar looking mounts these days. ~Augee FYI I have a set of PVS-7A’s and they fit and lock into a WILCOX L4 G24 helmet mount perfectly. |
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Posted: 6/19/2018 11:19:43 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryThis PVS 7a is just a fun project to play with and create a cheap loaner pair. |
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Posted: 6/21/2018 8:39:26 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
here are some pictures of the A I currently have and what happens when i install a C/D tube into the wired body. http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r680/dts-blackout25/20180616_215211_zpsdy5vcscz.jpg No matching holes in tge rear surface of tube cavity for the anti-rotation lugs to fit into http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r680/dts-blackout25/20180616_220831_zpsk6ef8d7o.jpg tube doesnt sit as far down into the Cavity as a 10130A tube would. http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r680/dts-blackout25/20180616_215410_zpsvztxnjn5.jpg The objective lens assembly doesnt seat all the way and the positioning slot on the obj. Lens assembly does not interlock with the lug on the wired body. http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r680/dts-blackout25/20180616_215637_zps0le8vgqy.jpg This is the what it should look like when fully seated. This is with a 10130A tube installed. http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r680/dts-blackout25/20180616_215803_zpstejqkk0v.jpg Looks like you are "tecnically" right. The C/D tubes dont fully seat, but with 2 of my housings the tab goes into the notch about half way so i can close it up with no issues and im not going to mod the tubes. |
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Posted: 6/24/2018 11:14:16 PM EDT
[#19]
Tonight I put the tube into the housing with out messing with the tabs. The objective lens seemed to close up tight and the locking ring snapped in.
Once focused the pvs7a looked good. There seemed to be a touch of "fish eye" but not bad also the tube is definitely not to par with my filmed omni 7 L3 or my filmless L3's. I was told the tube had a snr of 25 or greater and 64 lpmm but it seems to be a bit darker. Does the pvs7 glass and the mirrored image splitter diminish the brightness? What is the best way to clean the tubes lenses? Same as a regular lense? What are the power switch positions for? Or better yet does someone know where to download a manual? ETA: I found the manual online, the switch has 2 "on" positions and 2 "on ir" positions, on set is for handheld and the other helmet mounted. |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 11:04:59 PM EDT
[#20]
I also have a pvs7a with the wilcox type dovetail mount and I use a Wilcox L4G24 mount and the pvs7a locks in absolutely perfect into the Wilcox g24 mount. Just fyi
[Rquote]Quoted: Also, just as a final note--the PVS-7A/Cs do not use the standard USGI bayonet/horn interface--you'll actually need to get a dovetail mount to mount it to a helmet/Night Cap, if you look at that photograph of the head-mount you posted, |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 11:07:27 PM EDT
[#21]
My pvs7a body fits my c tube exactly the same. It goes about halfway to the locking tab but it's enough for me to be able to get it to lock up correctly
Quote HistoryQuoted: DTS Looks like you are "tecnically" right. The C/D tubes dont fully seat, but with 2 of my housings the tab goes into the notch about half way so i can close it up with no issues and im not going to mod the tubes. |
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Posted: 8/1/2018 11:43:17 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My pvs7a body fits my c tube exactly the same. It goes about halfway to the locking tab but it's enough for me to be able to get it to lock up correctly Quote HistoryQuoted:
My pvs7a body fits my c tube exactly the same. It goes about halfway to the locking tab but it's enough for me to be able to get it to lock up correctly Quoted: DTS Looks like you are "tecnically" right. The C/D tubes dont fully seat, but with 2 of my housings the tab goes into the notch about half way so i can close it up with no issues and im not going to mod the tubes. |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 9:29:58 AM EDT
[#23]
I have noticed that the FOV is a bit less with my PVS7a, have either of you noticed this as well? I am comparing to a 14 and DTNVG, those feel the same and if they are a true 40* then the 7 feels like 36* FOV.
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Posted: 8/2/2018 10:10:12 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have noticed that the FOV is a bit less with my PVS7a, have either of you noticed this as well? I am comparing to a 14 and DTNVG, those feel the same and if they are a true 40* then the 7 feels like 36* FOV. No idea of 7A FOV, sorry. Just brought this up because there are differences despite almost every site advertising them all being 40deg. Edit: and yes, the mirror split image in a 7 does produce a dimmer image. |
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Posted: 8/2/2018 12:42:28 PM EDT
[#25]
Thanks, they have been fun to play with and I suspected the image being a bit darker was the result of the image splitter. Overall they are pretty nice.
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Posted: 8/2/2018 1:22:40 PM EDT
[#26]
Yeah, same comment as murtis on FOV, its usually "ish". I haven't checked my pvs-7A's vs other units though, but I wouldn't be surprised if there were small differences.
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Posted: 8/3/2018 5:45:48 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have noticed that the FOV is a bit less with my PVS7a, have either of you noticed this as well? I am comparing to a 14 and DTNVG, those feel the same and if they are a true 40* then the 7 feels like 36* FOV. |
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Posted: 8/3/2018 6:12:24 PM EDT
[#28]
Will,
Since you asked this in the tacked thread where no one will bother, and to not crap it up: "It's a mx-10130 c/uv made in the mid 90s and the c/uv is listed as a omni 2 but that's from the mid 80s and I was thinking that since mine is made in the mid 90s when omni 3 and 4 were out that it could possibly be closer to that category then omni 2. Is that possible? Thank you for your time " Most of the 10130C's will probably close to the omniIII spec at least resolution wise and it depends on who made it, alot of them were in the mid 50's resolution wise (57 is a typical magical number for res). Otherwise for S/N probaly high teens or low 20's. The C tube I have is super clean and holds up res wise to my 64lp/mm tubes but not in terms of gain. One of the big problems with that chart is that its typically talking about Omni (a procurment contract) specifically in the context of MX10160 tubes. And people often misunderstand that. You could have an omni 6 contract order some gen2 MX9916 tubes (which at some point in the late 90's they actually did IIRC), but they won't be anywhere near the specs of 10160's that were ordered under the same contract. Also understand that those were contract minimums, and usually tubes could/had to beat those by 10-15% depending on the actual spec in question. |
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Posted: 8/3/2018 7:36:46 PM EDT
[#29]
I LOVED my pvs-7
Wish I still had it. Might pick up another if I can get a smoking deal. |
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Posted: 8/3/2018 8:09:12 PM EDT
[#30]
I like mine. Even the big daddy of pvs7s the original baird units that no one ever sees
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Posted: 8/3/2018 8:37:14 PM EDT
[#31]
I like PVS-7 just fine. Sold mine to help get money together for binos but they were my favorites.
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Posted: 8/4/2018 6:49:04 AM EDT
[#32]
Harlikwin, THANK YOU FOR THIS POST!!! I was thinking exactly what you said about how that list was for just contract tubes and mostly about 10160 tubes it would be almost impossible for them to list tube info that might actually fall under a higher category. It's good for general knowledge but it cant tell us about issues like with my tube. I just sent it tohttps://www.nvincorporated.com/product/nvinc-nitrogen-purge-service/# for cleaning. Lube and purging and repair anything that needs it but it's in excellent condition so it should be ok. The head guy I talked to for a whole about my goggles and tube and he said my tube is probably a omni 4 or a 3 and the resolution is in the 50s lpm. But it is a p23 and the darker green but I have no problem with that. He said to me when he gets it it will definitely be a good bit better all around. So in about 2 weeks I should have it back and I'm dying to see if there really is gonna be a noticeable difference. It's actually pretty damn good as is but if it can be better in figured I'd try it. I'll post the results when I get it back.
I seriously appreciate that post you made. It was a huge help with validating what I was also thinking about the list so it was great to hear you also felt the same way. Thank you Quote HistoryQuoted:
Will, Since you asked this in the tacked thread where no one will bother, and to not crap it up: "It's a mx-10130 c/uv made in the mid 90s and the c/uv is listed as a omni 2 but that's from the mid 80s and I was thinking that since mine is made in the mid 90s when omni 3 and 4 were out that it could possibly be closer to that category then omni 2. Is that possible? Thank you for your time " Most of the 10130C's will probably close to the omniIII spec at least resolution wise and it depends on who made it, alot of them were in the mid 50's resolution wise (57 is a typical magical number for res). Otherwise for S/N probaly high teens or low 20's. The C tube I have is super clean and holds up res wise to my 64lp/mm tubes but not in terms of gain. One of the big problems with that chart is that its typically talking about Omni (a procurment contract) specifically in the context of MX10160 tubes. And people often misunderstand that. You could have an omni 6 contract order some gen2 MX9916 tubes (which at some point in the late 90's they actually did IIRC), but they won't be anywhere near the specs of 10160's that were ordered under the same contract. Also understand that those were contract minimums, and usually tubes could/had to beat those by 10-15% depending on the actual spec in question. |
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