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Iray RH25 Thermal Monocular Thread (Page 7 of 30)
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Link. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0141U89J8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Yes, in my opinion it does work better, since both eyes see a green screen, and even as a monocular, I much prefer green over white or any other color at night.... and then it is dimmer too. This particular filter in the link its closer to a P20 phosphor from the good old days (which I much prefer over WP and P43, again, my opinion), but there are other yellower green filters, etc. To install, you take it out of the metal frame, and the glass itself fits perfect on my FLIR Breach eyepiece eyecup ring. To secure it all you need is a sliver of material to wedge it in. This is how the scope looks wit the green filter and a 1.25 eyepiece rubber eyecup.  this is how the image looks with the green filter. 
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Originally Posted By Millennial: Yeah it is. It’s probably the RECCEiest mini-RECCE that ever RECCEied. Is that PFalcon or painted RH25? (I wonder if iRayUSA would warrant a painted RH25…) Is that a 1.7” mount? It’s pretty close. You know, at first I was kind of soured the MQD Pictail mount was such an odd height, but being a middling height it literally seems to work with everything 1.5”-1.75” instead of picking a definitive absolute or lower-1/3 height. There’s too much industry variation on “lower-1/3” and I think iRay churned out a solution that works great with most things instead of perfect with one thing and then merely OK with others. Hahahaha It’s the PFalcon 640 and 1.7” mount. Lines up really well. |
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Originally Posted By gman1971: Link. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0141U89J8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Yes, in my opinion it does work better, since both eyes see a green screen, and even as a monocular, I much prefer green over white or any other color at night.... and then it is dimmer too. This particular filter in the link its closer to a P20 phosphor from the good old days (which I much prefer over WP and P43, again, my opinion), but there are other yellower green filters, etc. To install, you take it out of the metal frame, and the glass itself fits perfect on my FLIR Breach eyepiece eyecup ring. To secure it all you need is a sliver of material to wedge it in. This is how the scope looks wit the green filter and a 1.25 eyepiece rubber eyecup. https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/305592519_5672534266194064_9209786477231063145_n.jpg?_nc_cat=107&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=d8AdBVadRZ4AX9jY8HC&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-2.xx&oh=00_AT8XMeuRkiiApHggUqG30-P3Ret67Lx7sqSfVeDJk-rMMQ&oe=632D9334 this is how the image looks with the green filter. https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/306352705_5672533696194121_530821277252452527_n.jpg?_nc_cat=111&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=vqr8A5RpG6gAX8cW5qI&_nc_oc=AQnsschSn7zz-0PG1EH3r6aEfDdAKUdmdH6srTg8-Wa4XJntKFjrsLqrnOZ6IOV6u5A&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-2.xx&oh=00_AT9EMRZPZvIpLBsK2mVn4UpSsN-ksaYls8Tj3CvbnahdbQ&oe=632EAE3F Dude this is awesome, thanks for posting |
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Just dropped this info from Neal @ Noisefighters into another thread. It'll contain duplicate info but I figured why not share it with all. ======================================================================================= "Currently, the RH25 can be mounted on either side as long as you use the MUM rail (which is included with the RH25) and attach via our Mini-Rail Arm, which is now included in the Panobridge box. If you ordered before that arm became a standard item. To more fully answer your question, though, if the PVS-14 and RH25 are pointed straight ahead and the RH25 is on the left eye and PVS-14 is on the right eye, the RH25's battery compartment will knock against the PVS-14. It's not possible to fix this because of human interpupillary distance limitations. However, you can get around this issue by panning the monoculars outward slightly on the Panobridge, as the battery compartment then will not interfere. With this monocular orientation, the RH25 will not present an overlapped / fusion view of the same objects, but will display those at an outboard / leftward angle. What is interesting is that I have found a panned thermal / NV view to be somewhat advantageous because the brain does not need to sort out all of the false positives that the thermal tends to present (as in, it's easier for me to use a thermal / NV setup when they're panned outwards, but that may not be the case for everyone). So, if you want a normal fusion setup, you would need the RH25 on the right eye. All this said, we have also been working on a new type of adapter that will interest RH25 (and NOX18 and other thermals) owners. It does not solve the right / left battery compartment interference that you mentioned, but it does offer a significantly improved mounting experience. I plan to launch it in the next couple of weeks, so I'm sure you'll see details about it on ARFCOM. If you wish to be notified immediately, I'd be happy to put you on the list of interested customers." |
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Originally Posted By GunnyFitz: Just dropped this info from Neal @ Noisefighters into another thread. It'll contain duplicate info but I figured why not share it with all. ======================================================================================= "Currently, the RH25 can be mounted on either side as long as you use the MUM rail (which is included with the RH25) and attach via our Mini-Rail Arm, which is now included in the Panobridge box. If you ordered before that arm became a standard item. To more fully answer your question, though, if the PVS-14 and RH25 are pointed straight ahead and the RH25 is on the left eye and PVS-14 is on the right eye, the RH25's battery compartment will knock against the PVS-14. It's not possible to fix this because of human interpupillary distance limitations. However, you can get around this issue by panning the monoculars outward slightly on the Panobridge, as the battery compartment then will not interfere. With this monocular orientation, the RH25 will not present an overlapped / fusion view of the same objects, but will display those at an outboard / leftward angle. What is interesting is that I have found a panned thermal / NV view to be somewhat advantageous because the brain does not need to sort out all of the false positives that the thermal tends to present (as in, it's easier for me to use a thermal / NV setup when they're panned outwards, but that may not be the case for everyone). So, if you want a normal fusion setup, you would need the RH25 on the right eye. All this said, we have also been working on a new type of adapter that will interest RH25 (and NOX18 and other thermals) owners. It does not solve the right / left battery compartment interference that you mentioned, but it does offer a significantly improved mounting experience. I plan to launch it in the next couple of weeks, so I'm sure you'll see details about it on ARFCOM. If you wish to be notified immediately, I'd be happy to put you on the list of interested customers." Putting the MUM rail on the RH25 is a deal breaker. If you’re going to do that and forfeit weapon mounting, might as well save 30% and get a MH25 or StingIR. |
Dear NASA,
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
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FWIW............. HCC $500 Discount EDIT: Remind me, am I not supposed to post external vendor offers? EDIT 2: Was just told iRay dropped them for selling under MSRP. |
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Originally Posted By French1966: Dude this is awesome, thanks for posting Somehow stumbled onto this two part series on a site I dont ever recall seeing. I thought its MH review and photos are as effective as yours explaining such systems. Part Two goes into other stuff Figured it was worth your MH concurrence and all the technical G2 traffic within. Hoping all is GTG. Part One: Into the Night Part Two: Further Into the Night Part Three: Who owns one! IG Video of it Who doesn't love Fall Gents?  Out ............ |
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Originally Posted By GunnyFitz: FWIW............. HCC $500 Discount EDIT: Remind me, am I not supposed to post external vendor offers? EDIT 2: Was just told iRay dropped them for selling under MSRP. I think I got my PFN640+ from Cold Harbour Supply for about the same or even less. They do a mil/leo discount and the USD to CAD worked in my favor. |
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Bummer on all the RH25 issues, i was really looking forward to having a $6k HMT/rifle thermal. So what's the competition? Voodoo-S has a much smaller FOV which is a big deal, don't know much about the NOX. Is there anything else I should look at? I currently have binos but am looking to switch to a single PVS 14 + thermal(left eye) as I trained extensively with one tube up on my NVGs and really don't need two and I think this is the best setup IMO. 640x480 is a requirement, capability of being HMT & rifle is a requirement, true 1x is a requirement (not 1.1). Thanks guys |
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Originally Posted By Stinkfoot09: Bummer on all the RH25 issues, i was really looking forward to having a $6k HMT/rifle thermal. So what's the competition? Voodoo-S has a much smaller FOV which is a big deal, don't know much about the NOX. Is there anything else I should look at? I currently have binos but am looking to switch to a single PVS 14 + thermal(left eye) as I trained extensively with one tube up on my NVGs and really don't need two and I think this is the best setup IMO. 640x480 is a requirement, capability of being HMT & rifle is a requirement, true 1x is a requirement (not 1.1). Thanks guys Exactly what is it preventing you from buying the RH? |
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Originally Posted By Millennial: It has some quirks, but it’s still totally sweet. Don’t mistake our bitching for the RH25 being bad or not worth it. We just like to bitch. Absolutely. I’ve probably been the most critical of it and I still really like it and don’t regret my purchase at all. Zero plans to sell it. I will always bring up negatives of any system I use. I don’t subscribe to the “I bought it so you should too” or “there couldn’t possibly be any negatives of any purchase I make because my gear is a reflection of myself and I surely am perfect” mindsets. I recently got bored and installed the new RH25 Nocorium wrap Attached File One of the neighbors gave me a tripod also, which threads right in to the pictail. Should prove useful if I ever want to observe something and stream it to my phone from a distance. The wifi connection seems to be good out to about 10 yards Attached File This unit is just incredibly versatile. Hence why I don’t regret my purchase at all. Was totally worth selling all the sheet-rock and carpet in my house to fund it 
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Originally Posted By French1966: Absolutely. I’ve probably been the most critical of it and I still really like it and don’t regret my purchase at all. Zero plans to sell it. I will always bring up negatives of any system I use. I don’t subscribe to the “I bought it so you should too” or “there couldn’t possibly be any negatives of any purchase I make because my gear is a reflection of myself and I surely am perfect” mindsets. I recently got bored and installed the new RH25 Nocorium wrap https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/496867/8FCABEDE-17D0-4534-B31D-815A69DE61A2_jpe-2540846.JPG One of the neighbors gave me a tripod also, which threads right in to the pictail. Should prove useful if I ever want to observe something and stream it to my phone from a distance. The wifi connection seems to be good out to about 10 yards https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/496867/BF4D6CCC-B227-41A7-81EB-80FC822ED5A1_jpe-2540847.JPG This unit is just incredibly versatile. Hence why I don’t regret my purchase at all. Was totally worth selling all the sheet-rock and carpet in my house to fund it LMAO! Flooring is over rated and sheetrock just gets shot up when you practice FOF inside the house!!!  |
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That chart just copied the MH25 info under the RH25 info and changed the reticle number.  RH has a different weight and uses a different battery, and has an entirely different ocular assembly (different display type, display resolution, diopter, eye relief, exit pupil…). The only thing they share is the objective lens and sensor array. Wonder what else the chart gets wrong. |
Dear NASA,
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
 Thanks for the pick up - see above Just be aware the DRI are at 90% probability (manufacturers often use 50%, which doesn't matter for detection but does for recognition and identification). DRI is calculated from the pixel pitch and focal length of the germanium lens - nothing else matters as these two parameters define the number of pixels on target. Obviously, other models could be used to calculate DRI e.g. FLIR92, ACQUIRE or other fuller metrics, but most understand DRI and frankly its a good guide. It is worth noting all of the above will be redundant within 12 months as 8um <25mK NETD are going to be making their way into the civilian market place. Redundant is not the right word, surpassed is better - all will still be good. |
Veni Vidi Vici
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Originally Posted By gwood188: Has anyone considered rebuilding their PVS14 with a Vyper housing? It definitely solves the lack of OSS shoe problem. For about $250 it doesn’t seem like a bad idea. https://nvincorporated.com/product/photonis-vyper-housings/ Still won’t work… at least for me. The battery compartment on the RH is so big and the PVS eyepiece is so fat, the physically can’t sit next to each other unless you have large PID. It’s the RH that needs flipped to put its batt compartment outboard. I’m making my own obverse adapter… |
Dear NASA,
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
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Originally Posted By GroundhogOZ: https://i.imgur.com/HvNenrb.jpg Thanks for the pick up - see above Just be aware the DRI are at 90% probability (manufacturers often use 50%, which doesn't matter for detection but does for recognition and identification). DRI is calculated from the pixel pitch and focal length of the germanium lens - nothing else matters as these two parameters define the number of pixels on target. Obviously, other models could be used to calculate DRI e.g. FLIR92, ACQUIRE or other fuller metrics, but most understand DRI and frankly its a good guide. It is worth noting all of the above will be redundant within 12 months as 8um <25mK NETD are going to be making their way into the civilian market place. Redundant is not the right word, surpassed is better - all will still be good. When I had my 8.5 degree FOV 50mm/f1.1 Super Yoter, I could shoot at hand warmers at 100 yards and place shots on them (right/left/up/down). I could watch birds land on target stands at 200yds and silouhette steel at 350 was easy. There’s a video of a guy from the hide shooting a coyote at 275 yards with a RH25+Razor… and it’s pretty easy to tell when it’s sitting, walking, etc. I absolutely think the RH25 is extremely effective shooting a 0.5x1.9m target out to ~300. I can see tree bark texture with my RH25 at 90 yards… no way it’s DRI is that conservative. Edit: here’s a RH25 pic out the back door. This a 3X prism and the big tree on the left is 75 yards and the patio door the reticle is on is ~100yds… and it’s a crappy iPhone camera. Looks even nicer the rough the scope. Attached File |
Dear NASA,
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
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90% is conservative, it is one of three levels (90/70/50) that were used to assess night vision and digital technology as it advanced (the approach was originally developed by the US military and variations of it are still used to this day) - specifically to understand what could and couldn't be seen by different technologies. Without going in to it to much, its based around a parameter known as the critical dimension (CD) of an object which is given by the sqrt(h x w). The idea being that devices could be assessed and specs drawn up for different applications. The bottom line is, this approach has stood the test of time within reason e.g. the differences between something like the ACQUIRE model and the original DRI model developed by Johnson are - for an object with a CD of ~ 0.75 - and at the 50% probability level ~ 3m for identification ~ 30m for recognition and 100m for detection. Another point point to note - the identification parameter doesn't mean John from down the road, it means the distinction between a threat (combatant) and non-threat. Like all of these things its just one approach or metric but it is worth noting the military and LE are very hot on the recognition and identification components - particularly in the area of automated classification and especially in the area of live firing e.g. hostage or victim, friend or enemy, toyota pick-up or toyota technical etc. Anyhow, its quite interesting to do side by side comparisons. Note: I have added the DRI at 50% probability to the table - gives a clearer all round perspective |
Veni Vidi Vici
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Originally Posted By GGtar122: I have a Wilcox G24 and a helmet on the way. What other mount do you guys recommend To get me going on a helmet setup? All depends on what NV/Thermal device you are going to use. Here are a few discussed within all the pages here. May be worth scrolling back thru some. Noisefighters Bridge AX14-Pro Wilcox Bridge SOTAC Bridge (Clone) I'm sure others can add to these as well.... (Diz)
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Originally Posted By GunnyFitz: All depends on what NV/Thermal device you are going to use. Here are a few discussed within all the pages here. May be worth scrolling back thru some. Noisefighters Bridge AX14-Pro Wilcox Bridge SOTAC Bridge (Clone) I'm sure others can add to these as well.... (Diz) Originally Posted By GunnyFitz: Originally Posted By GGtar122: I have a Wilcox G24 and a helmet on the way. What other mount do you guys recommend To get me going on a helmet setup? All depends on what NV/Thermal device you are going to use. Here are a few discussed within all the pages here. May be worth scrolling back thru some. Noisefighters Bridge AX14-Pro Wilcox Bridge SOTAC Bridge (Clone) I'm sure others can add to these as well.... (Diz) I have DTNVS's on order and this will be my main set up while using the thermal as a handheld and clip on. However I would like to try some helmet mounting of the RH25 |
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Originally Posted By GGtar122: I have DTNVS's on order and this will be my main set up while using the thermal as a handheld and clip on. However I would like to try some helmet mounting of the RH25 Where in VA are you? I also have a DTNVS/PVS14 & RH25 with all the trimmings. Be happy to show it to you in person if somewhat local. |
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Originally Posted By Diz: Ha ha well Gunny, the list is long and distinguished. I would say the new SOTAC RQE would also be worth a look. The first batch is going fast. And no I am not a shill for SOTAC. I am merely testing and evaluating their kit, to see if it meets our needs. Did you get the SOTAC in hand yet? I have been thinking about getting one till the real deal is available. |
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Originally Posted By mah827: Did you get the SOTAC in hand yet? I have been thinking about getting one till the real deal is available. There are quite a few of us here who have one, including myself. China aside, they're actually pretty friggin solid. Frenchie even has one in FDE too!
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Originally Posted By GunnyFitz: Where in VA are you? I also have a DTNVS/PVS14 & RH25 with all the trimmings. Be happy to show it to you in person if somewhat local. Originally Posted By GunnyFitz: Originally Posted By GGtar122: I have DTNVS's on order and this will be my main set up while using the thermal as a handheld and clip on. However I would like to try some helmet mounting of the RH25 Where in VA are you? I also have a DTNVS/PVS14 & RH25 with all the trimmings. Be happy to show it to you in person if somewhat local. PM sent |
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Originally Posted By Diz: Ha ha well Gunny, the list is long and distinguished. I would say the new SOTAC RQE would also be worth a look. The first batch is going fast. And no I am not a shill for SOTAC. I am merely testing and evaluating their kit, to see if it meets our needs. @Diz How would you say I’m the RQE clone is compared to the Wilcox Clone? I have the Wilcox. Other than being hefty, it’s pretty solid. |
Dear NASA,
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
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I just ordered mine (the RQE) and still have a little wait. But yeah, have the Wilcox clone as well and concur. I wuz sent a review of the RQE (arigatou Gunny) and it would appear it's pretty much the same deal. I think it makes sense as a "proof of concept", as it were, before buying the original one, whenever that might be. My initial thought was hey this looks like it might be a tad lighter than the Wilcox, just due to it's design. For a buck sixty eight, I'm gonna find out. |
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Originally Posted By GunnyFitz: There are quite a few of us here who have one, including myself. China aside, they're actually pretty friggin solid. Frenchie even has one in FDE too! Originally Posted By GunnyFitz: Originally Posted By mah827: Did you get the SOTAC in hand yet? I have been thinking about getting one till the real deal is available. There are quite a few of us here who have one, including myself. China aside, they're actually pretty friggin solid. Frenchie even has one in FDE too! I believe he is referring to the RQE copy gunny. I don’t have one of those. |
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Originally Posted By 2JokersWild: Does the unit allow multiple saved "clip on" profiles so you can easily switch it between rifles? Or is the clip on adjustment a one time only sort of thing? Really considering this unit to use as a scanner and clip on, less so a helmet mount option. One clip-on setting only. But it is pretty quick to adjust if you don’t mind writing down your different zeros or memorizing them. I could probably adjust between clip-on zeros in 15 seconds. |
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Originally Posted By GunnyFitz: There are quite a few of us here who have one, including myself. China aside, they're actually pretty friggin solid. Frenchie even has one in FDE too! For those that have this bridge, can you use these with a PVS14+Thermal? Or do you NEED an OSS? Does the K-Clip do something the Wilcox type shoes don't? If MUM rail capability is why people get K-Clips, can you just use the Wilcox shoes to mount two PVS14s? All I can figure about the OSS is that it looks like it gives the ability to mount one PVS14 upside down for more symmetrical controls?)  |
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Well yeah that's the whole issue. "You" want a -14 mounted batt housing outboard, and on the right side, for viewing through RDS. Those shoes mount both -14's with both batt housings the same direction, which happens to be the "wrong" way, for us. In other words, a -14 mounted right eye, will have the batt housing inboard, making integration with thermal difficult if not impossible. The KC OSS set includes a ring to mount your -14 right side and batt outboard. And you can get another shoe with a MUM slot for thermals (not to mention another dovetail for another -14). So it's the ideal adapter kit for this design. Now you can pull this off with other designs, such as the NF Pano Bridge, MA/IC D-14, but to get the QD feature (to switch from dual -14's to thermal) the Wilcox/RQE design is optimal, IF you can find the adapters. |
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Originally Posted By GunnyFitz: All depends on what NV/Thermal device you are going to use. Here are a few discussed within all the pages here. May be worth scrolling back thru some. Noisefighters Bridge AX14-Pro Wilcox Bridge SOTAC Bridge (Clone) I'm sure others can add to these as well.... (Diz) Originally Posted By GunnyFitz: Originally Posted By GGtar122: I have a Wilcox G24 and a helmet on the way. What other mount do you guys recommend To get me going on a helmet setup? All depends on what NV/Thermal device you are going to use. Here are a few discussed within all the pages here. May be worth scrolling back thru some. Noisefighters Bridge AX14-Pro Wilcox Bridge SOTAC Bridge (Clone) I'm sure others can add to these as well.... (Diz) I'm just looking to mount the RH25 alone. Is there a better mount to interface with my Wilcox G24? |
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Originally Posted By GunnyFitz: Was there supposed to be a question or words here? Diz sums everything up above Originally Posted By GunnyFitz: Originally Posted By GGtar122: Was there supposed to be a question or words here? Diz sums everything up above Yes, edited above. |
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Originally Posted By GGtar122: I'm just looking to mount the RH25 alone. Is there a better mount to interface with my Wilcox G24? Originally Posted By GGtar122: Originally Posted By GunnyFitz: Originally Posted By GGtar122: I have a Wilcox G24 and a helmet on the way. What other mount do you guys recommend To get me going on a helmet setup? All depends on what NV/Thermal device you are going to use. Here are a few discussed within all the pages here. May be worth scrolling back thru some. Noisefighters Bridge AX14-Pro Wilcox Bridge SOTAC Bridge (Clone) I'm sure others can add to these as well.... (Diz) I'm just looking to mount the RH25 alone. Is there a better mount to interface with my Wilcox G24? For mounting the RH25 alone you could just get a dovetail/dovetail J arm by mod armory or the KAC JAMR. I still think the Chinese Wilcox bridge is a steal @ $130. Just unscrew half the bridge if you want to run the RH25 by itself |
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Originally Posted By French1966: For mounting the RH25 alone you could just get a dovetail/dovetail J arm by mod armory or the KAC JAMR. I still think the Chinese Wilcox bridge is a steal @ $130. Just unscrew half the bridge if you want to run the RH25 by itself Is there a link for the Chinese Wilcox? |
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Originally Posted By GGtar122: Is there a link for the Chinese Wilcox? Originally Posted By GGtar122: Originally Posted By French1966: For mounting the RH25 alone you could just get a dovetail/dovetail J arm by mod armory or the KAC JAMR. I still think the Chinese Wilcox bridge is a steal @ $130. Just unscrew half the bridge if you want to run the RH25 by itself Is there a link for the Chinese Wilcox? https://www.ebay.com/itm/133232271639?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=4lasZEKlSyG&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=rTrrhxZ6QZC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY The tan one is $10 cheaper Also, I got both mine in about 2-3 weeks if I remember correctly |
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Originally Posted By Diz: Well yeah that's the whole issue. "You" want a -14 mounted batt housing outboard, and on the right side, for viewing through RDS. Those shoes mount both -14's with both batt housings the same direction, which happens to be the "wrong" way, for us. In other words, a -14 mounted right eye, will have the batt housing inboard, making integration with thermal difficult if not impossible. The KC OSS set includes a ring to mount your -14 right side and batt outboard. And you can get another shoe with a MUM slot for thermals (not to mention another dovetail for another -14). So it's the ideal adapter kit for this design. Now you can pull this off with other designs, such as the NF Pano Bridge, MA/IC D-14, but to get the QD feature (to switch from dual -14's to thermal) the Wilcox/RQE design is optimal, IF you can find the adapters. Maybe my IPD is whack… but the -14 battery housing position doesn’t matter with an RH25… the RH battery housing is so large that if you don’t flip the RH25 upside down (right side up?) then you can’t get a PVS-14 IN ANY ORIENTATION next to it. Meanwhile, if you do flip the RH25 battery housing outboard, then a PVS-14 will fit next to it in any orientation. The KVC OSS shoe or vyper housing doesn’t solve this problem. |
Dear NASA,
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
|
Originally Posted By French1966: One clip-on setting only. But it is pretty quick to adjust if you don’t mind writing down your different zeros or memorizing them. I could probably adjust between clip-on zeros in 15 seconds. Originally Posted By French1966: Originally Posted By 2JokersWild: Does the unit allow multiple saved "clip on" profiles so you can easily switch it between rifles? Or is the clip on adjustment a one time only sort of thing? Really considering this unit to use as a scanner and clip on, less so a helmet mount option. One clip-on setting only. But it is pretty quick to adjust if you don’t mind writing down your different zeros or memorizing them. I could probably adjust between clip-on zeros in 15 seconds. It seemed to be a one time adjustment for me. Maybe it’s because my 3 mounts were all pretty close to the same heights. Once zero offset was adjusted, my clipon has been pretty much on target for 3 different rifles with 3 different optic setups; 1.5” 0moa Razor1-6x, 1.54” 3X prism, and 1.5” 10moa Razor 3-18x. Perhaps it may not have been perfect, but it was good enough at 200yds that I didn’t notice the RH25 throwing my aim off. What you DO need to be cognizant of is that changing your focus distance may shift your zero. So if you zeroed at 30-50 yards or something with the thermal focused sharply, then go to take a shot at 200 yards and refocus so the image is razor sharp… it may shift you zero several[/] MOA. Best to zero everything with the focus adjusted for 200+ yards or something and then just deal with a [i]slightly fuzzy 25-50 yards image to shoot at. For this reason it’s a good idea to have a focus stop or reference so you know it’ll hit POI when it’s time to shoot. |
Dear NASA,
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
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Originally Posted By Millennial: Maybe my IPD is whack… but the -14 battery housing position doesn’t matter with an RH25… the RH battery housing is so large that if you don’t flip the RH25 upside down (right side up?) then you can’t get a PVS-14 IN ANY ORIENTATION next to it. Meanwhile, if you do flip the RH25 battery housing outboard, then a PVS-14 will fit next to it in any orientation. The KVC OSS shoe or vyper housing doesn’t solve this problem. 
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Originally Posted By Millennial: It seemed to be a one time adjustment for me. Maybe it’s because my 3 mounts were all pretty close to the same heights. Once zero offset was adjusted, my clipon has been pretty much on target for 3 different rifles with 3 different optic setups; 1.5” 0moa Razor1-6x, 1.54” 3X prism, and 1.5” 10moa Razor 3-18x. Perhaps it may not have been perfect, but it was good enough at 200yds that I didn’t notice the RH25 throwing my aim off. What you DO need to be cognizant of is that changing your focus distance may shift your zero. So if you zeroed at 30-50 yards or something with the thermal focused sharply, then go to take a shot at 200 yards and refocus so the image is razor sharp… it may shift you zero several[/] MOA. Best to zero everything with the focus adjusted for 200+ yards or something and then just deal with a [i]slightly fuzzy 25-50 yards image to shoot at. For this reason it’s a good idea to have a focus stop or reference so you know it’ll hit POI when it’s time to shoot. Originally Posted By Millennial: Originally Posted By French1966: Originally Posted By 2JokersWild: Does the unit allow multiple saved "clip on" profiles so you can easily switch it between rifles? Or is the clip on adjustment a one time only sort of thing? Really considering this unit to use as a scanner and clip on, less so a helmet mount option. One clip-on setting only. But it is pretty quick to adjust if you don’t mind writing down your different zeros or memorizing them. I could probably adjust between clip-on zeros in 15 seconds. It seemed to be a one time adjustment for me. Maybe it’s because my 3 mounts were all pretty close to the same heights. Once zero offset was adjusted, my clipon has been pretty much on target for 3 different rifles with 3 different optic setups; 1.5” 0moa Razor1-6x, 1.54” 3X prism, and 1.5” 10moa Razor 3-18x. Perhaps it may not have been perfect, but it was good enough at 200yds that I didn’t notice the RH25 throwing my aim off. What you DO need to be cognizant of is that changing your focus distance may shift your zero. So if you zeroed at 30-50 yards or something with the thermal focused sharply, then go to take a shot at 200 yards and refocus so the image is razor sharp… it may shift you zero several[/] MOA. Best to zero everything with the focus adjusted for 200+ yards or something and then just deal with a [i]slightly fuzzy 25-50 yards image to shoot at. For this reason it’s a good idea to have a focus stop or reference so you know it’ll hit POI when it’s time to shoot. That is really interesting that you didn’t have to adjust zero. Makes me want to try the clip-on feature on my SBR with magnifier to see if it’s zeroed coming from my 14.5/lpvo setup. I just assumed that you would need to re-zero mainly because I saw how gross the adjustments were at 50 yards. 1 x or y adjustment seemed to adjust several MOA @ 50. I figured no way would it be zeroed with different optics/rifles. It’s my first clip-on though so I definitely am not a SME, guess I need to get out and test it with different stuff |
Iray RH25 Thermal Monocular Thread (Page 7 of 30)
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