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Iray RH25 Thermal Monocular Thread (Page 6 of 30)
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Originally Posted By Millennial: Yeah, I’m going to collimate it tonight in helmet and write it down. It’s at least useful to know. I suppose I could run thermal on my left and PVS on my right with the fake Wilcox, I'm still unable to figure out how to accomplish this.... Frenchie has offered to help, just need what we all lose = time. |
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Originally Posted By GunnyFitz: I'm still unable to figure out how to accomplish this.... Frenchie has offered to help, just need what we all lose = time. Originally Posted By GunnyFitz: Originally Posted By Millennial: Yeah, I’m going to collimate it tonight in helmet and write it down. It’s at least useful to know. I suppose I could run thermal on my left and PVS on my right with the fake Wilcox, I'm still unable to figure out how to accomplish this.... Frenchie has offered to help, just need what we all lose = time. There is no accomplishing that with the Wilcox. You will need the KAC or a different bridge. But then you end up spending $1K+ and still have to deal with that eye relief disparity between the two. Not saying it doesn’t work, but it can’t be ideal. Less room for eye spacing adjustments also if you have a smaller IPD like me. At least the Wilcox is more correct in that regard. (Granted, I use a demist shield which makes it look even better) Attached File Vs Attached File I’m pretty happy using thermal right & NV left. I won’t be trying to chase down any other bridge for it. The biggest downside I see of the setup as a whole is weight. Mine is coming in at 31oz Noisefighters is about to release their RH25 adapter for the panobridge, but again, it’s RH25 Right/PVS14 left. It will cut a considerable amount of weight though I assume. |
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Originally Posted By French1966: There is no accomplishing that with the Wilcox. You will need the KAC or a different bridge. But then you end up spending $1K+ and still have to deal with that eye relief disparity between the two. Not saying it doesn’t work, but it can’t be ideal. Less room for eye spacing adjustments also if you have a smaller IPD like me. At least the Wilcox is more correct in that regard. (Granted, I use a demist shield which makes it look even better) https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/496867/BA4E2F3D-76F8-4372-BFB7-C782F3574E98_jpe-2506133.JPG Vs https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/496867/72270F85-167F-4205-A66E-3B3AE5FAD441_jpe-2506138.JPG I’m pretty happy using thermal right & NV left. I won’t be trying to chase down any other bridge for it. The biggest downside I see of the setup as a whole is weight. Mine is coming in at 31oz Noisefighters is about to release their RH25 adapter for the panobridge, but again, it’s RH25 Right/PVS14 left. It will cut a considerable amount of weight though I assume. Have you guys considered talking to noisefighters about making whatever shoes you need to make things work. They seem very responsive to customer input and their turn around time on idea to product is really short. Having your thermal on your shooting eye takes some of the shine off a dual band setup depending on what you're using it for. |
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Originally Posted By Millennial: I should just get a COTI eventually… damn this is expensive lol. Definitely recommended getting a coti. I run a coti a lot more than dual band but it's an alternative to rather than a replacement for a real hmt. Seems like a lot of people bought them during the the europtic sale not understanding what they're for so they're popping up used for good prices. |
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Originally Posted By GreenMushroom: Have you guys considered talking to noisefighters about making whatever shoes you need to make things work. They seem very responsive to customer input and their turn around time on idea to product is really short. Having your thermal on your shooting eye takes some of the shine off a dual band setup depending on what you're using it for. Originally Posted By GreenMushroom: Originally Posted By French1966: There is no accomplishing that with the Wilcox. You will need the KAC or a different bridge. But then you end up spending $1K+ and still have to deal with that eye relief disparity between the two. Not saying it doesn’t work, but it can’t be ideal. Less room for eye spacing adjustments also if you have a smaller IPD like me. At least the Wilcox is more correct in that regard. (Granted, I use a demist shield which makes it look even better) https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/496867/BA4E2F3D-76F8-4372-BFB7-C782F3574E98_jpe-2506133.JPG Vs https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/496867/72270F85-167F-4205-A66E-3B3AE5FAD441_jpe-2506138.JPG I’m pretty happy using thermal right & NV left. I won’t be trying to chase down any other bridge for it. The biggest downside I see of the setup as a whole is weight. Mine is coming in at 31oz Noisefighters is about to release their RH25 adapter for the panobridge, but again, it’s RH25 Right/PVS14 left. It will cut a considerable amount of weight though I assume. Have you guys considered talking to noisefighters about making whatever shoes you need to make things work. They seem very responsive to customer input and their turn around time on idea to product is really short. Having your thermal on your shooting eye takes some of the shine off a dual band setup depending on what you're using it for. Good idea about speaking with Noisefighters. The prototype looks promising and I am sure they could do an adapter for the other side as well: Attached File I almost got a COTI when europtics was blowing them out. Was pretty damn tempting |
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Noisefighters are a solid group I've dealt with many times. Always came thru for me on PVS14 mounts, and the Pano itself. I'm in no extreme rush and have yet to get the two devices mounted sufficiently enough to see thru them BOTH at once. Appreciate you all. The pics are extremely helpful Frenchie! 
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Originally Posted By GunnyFitz: have yet to get the two devices mounted sufficiently enough to see thru them BOTH at once. @GunnyFitz This should not be the case. What part of the bridge setup/adjustment are you having trouble with? Regarding the Chinese Wilcox bridge… The part’s that I can see being an issue for someone are the eye spacing adjustments coming locked with the 3 set screws on each. The height is maxed on my G24 clone and the eye relief is maxed also, but it just happened to be perfect in those maxed settings. |
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Gents, jumping into this convo way late. Scrolled through a few pages but not the entire thread. I apologize if this has been answered previously. For those that don't helmet mount and only weapon mount.... how is it? Once setup, is it easy to remove and mount? My intent would be to scan for hogs under NODS, or use the RH25 handheld. If it looks promising, attach to rifle and go, if unable to use my IR. The main purpose of my purchase is a clip on thermal for my AR platforms. |
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Originally Posted By Zone0ne: Gents, jumping into this convo way late. Scrolled through a few pages but not the entire thread. I apologize if this has been answered previously. For those that don't helmet mount and only weapon mount.... how is it? Once setup, is it easy to remove and mount? My intent would be to scan for hogs under NODS, or use the RH25 handheld. If it looks promising, attach to rifle and go, if unable to use my IR. The main purpose of my purchase is a clip on thermal for my AR platforms. @Zone0ne It works great as a short range clip-on. I think anything beyond 200-300 yards is pushing it (although I’ve seen people shoot further with it). 4x is as much as I magnification that I will use with it. Image starts to blur pretty quickly. It’s very easy to mount & remove using the QD stuff. Photos I just took looking over my fence (some rough distance estimations included). Using a Leupold 3HD 1.5-4x 35 yards & around 1.5-2x magnification Attached File 125 yards & 1.5-2x magnification Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Zone0ne: Thanks - I'll be mounting mine in front of a T1 w/ 3x, or in front of a Vortex 1-6. I'm using mine this way. T2/3x and Leupold Mk6 1x6. It will work with your T1 set up, but you loose a lot of FOV. I thought the limiting factor would be only having 3x, but not having the 1x ended up bothering me more. You loose some ability to see the menu screens with 3x only. You can learn to work around it, but was surprised just how much more I liked the clip on with the 1x6 LPVO type scope. Just FYI. |
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Originally Posted By Fongman: I'm using mine this way. T2/3x and Leupold Mk6 1x6. It will work with your T1 set up, but you loose a lot of FOV. I thought the limiting factor would be only having 3x, but not having the 1x ended up bothering me more. You loose some ability to see the menu screens with 3x only. You can learn to work around it, but was surprised just how much more I liked the clip on with the 1x6 LPVO type scope. Just FYI. I don’t think the FOV is so terrible with a 3X… it’s pretty much just whatever your 3X allows; sure, it’s worse than 1X monocular use but nobody really complains about 3X magnifier FOV during daytime use. I wish someone made a quality 2X magnifier; I think that’d be excellent for clip-ons in front of red dots. It really is pretty good with 1-6x though. 1-4x is very usable and then the image kind of falls apart over 4x. But 5-6x isn’t totally unfortunate looking and if you’ve got an SFP reticle the 5-6x helps when zeroing. I think a 1-6x is the sweet spot for a day/night rifle that uses the RH25 at night. If you were building a purely/primarily night setup with the RH25, sticking to a Leupold or Trijicon 1-4x wouldn’t be a bad choice at all to save a decent amount of weight and cost versus most 6X LPVO. |
Dear NASA,
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
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Originally Posted By Millennial: I don’t think the FOV isn’t terrible with a 3X… it’s pretty much just whatever your 3X allows; sure, it’s worse than 1X monocular use but nobody really complains about 3X magnifier FOV during daytime use. Plus you pretty much the magnifier to peek up into the thermal from behind a RDS/HWS. I wish someone made a quality 2X magnifier; I think that’d be excellent for clip-ons in front of red dots. It really is pretty good with 1-6x though. 1-4x is very usable and then the image kind of falls apart over 4x. But 5-6x isn’t totally unfortunate looking and if you’ve got an SFP reticle the 5-6x helps when zeroing. I think a 1-6x is the sweet spot for a day/night rifle that uses the RH25 at night. If you were building a purely/primarily night setup with the RH25, sticking to a Leupold or Trijicon 1-4x wouldn’t be a bad choice at all to save a decent amount of weight and cost versus most 6X LPVO. Agreed. Didn't say it was terrible, but compared to a 1x LPVO it is significant. Having said that, I've used it with my T2 more than my LPVO at this point. FOV in a short range optic is important to me, so I like it better with the LPVO. Just gotta get use to it with different guns/optics, it's a cool little optic.  |
The 2nd amendment is not just a right, it's a responsibility. So train like it...
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Originally Posted By Fongman: I'm using mine this way. T2/3x and Leupold Mk6 1x6. It will work with your T1 set up, but you loose a lot of FOV. I thought the limiting factor would be only having 3x, but not having the 1x ended up bothering me more. You loose some ability to see the menu screens with 3x only. You can learn to work around it, but was surprised just how much more I liked the clip on with the 1x6 LPVO type scope. Just FYI. Originally Posted By Fongman: Originally Posted By Zone0ne: Thanks - I'll be mounting mine in front of a T1 w/ 3x, or in front of a Vortex 1-6. I'm using mine this way. T2/3x and Leupold Mk6 1x6. It will work with your T1 set up, but you loose a lot of FOV. I thought the limiting factor would be only having 3x, but not having the 1x ended up bothering me more. You loose some ability to see the menu screens with 3x only. You can learn to work around it, but was surprised just how much more I liked the clip on with the 1x6 LPVO type scope. Just FYI. Agree 100%. Mirrors my experience. I ended up building out a rifle with LPVO specifically for the RH25 after trying with 3x magnifier. The low end of magnification (or no magnification) is really enjoyable to use, especially for spotting targets. Again here is a comparison of my 1.5x lpvo vs 3x magnifier. Deer are at roughly the same distance. It’s awesome having such a large image and FOV with an LPVO. Attached File Attached File |
| Agreed French1966. Short range optic, scanning for detection, FOV is so much quicker and better on 1X. I might dial up for the shot, but 95% of the time I'm scanning on 1x. I like that I can throw it on my short barrel carbine with a T2, but that set up is much more limiting, but it does work. |
The 2nd amendment is not just a right, it's a responsibility. So train like it...
| Looking at my unit the other day, I noticed what appears to be an aperture for a laser beneath the objective lens. I also saw this mentioned in the snipers hide thread about the rh25 but I haven't seen any mention of it being activated. Does anyone have any insight to how this might work? I've got some buddies I hunt with who either have nods or are getting them but none have interest in thermal so having a laser would be a huge help when using it as a handheld |
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Originally Posted By racastaneda: Looking at my unit the other day, I noticed what appears to be an aperture for a laser beneath the objective lens. I also saw this mentioned in the snipers hide thread about the rh25 but I haven't seen any mention of it being activated. Does anyone have any insight to how this might work? I've got some buddies I hunt with who either have nods or are getting them but none have interest in thermal so having a laser would be a huge help when using it as a handheld Go back and read page 5. I believe its discussed there. |
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I got my offsets written down and working in helmet mode with a PVS-14 (milspec Omni VIII GP) on the chicom Wilcox knockoff bridge. TL;DR It’s not amazing fusion, but it’s close enough that I can now hike around and use it for dual-band scanning. There was a lot of fiddling to get each to overlay for my brain (and actual time practicing getting my brain used to it) but after a cumulative hour or so of hiking around I’d call it 85% perfect now. Perfectly serviceable IMO for hunting/scanning. Click To View Spoiler |
Dear NASA,
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
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Originally Posted By Millennial: I got my offsets written down and working in helmet mode with a PVS-14 (milspec Omni VIII GP) on the chicom Wilcox knockoff bridge. TL;DR It’s not amazing fusion, but it’s close enough that I can now hike around and use it for dual-band scanning. There was a lot of fiddling to get each to overlay for my brain (and actual time practicing getting my brain used to it) but after a cumulative hour or so of hiking around I’d call it 85% perfect now. Perfectly serviceable IMO for hunting/scanning. Click To View Spoiler Awesome/informative write up (the spoiler) |
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Originally Posted By French1966: But then you end up spending $1K+ and still have to deal with that eye relief disparity between the two. Fixt. The drawback of not having a manual for the KAC/RQE/UnicornTears bridge is not knowing all its secrets until it decides to share them with you. Just saw one for $900 last week. 
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Here’s a tutorial on how to make an handy 11.5” carbine weight more than 11 pounds. It still needs a light and lasers too but it’s shaping up… it’ll probably be ~12LB with a loaded mag when finished. Chonky little boi, here. Works decent. The Bobro 5/8” riser puts the 2.26” FTC magnifier damn close to center on the EXPS and pretty close to the RH25 center. Fence and trees are 80ish yards. It’s way crisper to my eye (you can see individual pixels and the tree bark texture in real life). The iPotato kept focusing on the magnifier ring instead of the image and I gave up - LOL. Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
Dear NASA,
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
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Originally Posted By Millennial: Here’s a tutorial on how to make a 11.25 LB unloaded 11.5” (loaded). It still needs a lights and lasers too but it’s shaping up… it’ll probably be ~12LB with a loaded mag when finished. Chonky little boi, here. Works decent. The Bobro 5/8” riser puts the 2.26” FTC magnifier damn close to center on the EXPS and pretty close to the RH25 center. Fence and trees are 80ish yards. It’s way crisper to my eye (you can see individual pixels and the tree bark texture in real life). The iPotato kept focusing on the magnifier ring instead of the image and I gave up - LOL. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/132797/6BE213CD-9F02-4130-9F4A-63214C5CBE51_jpe-2517424.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/132797/78503405-E546-4EFD-A699-8B1A20443874_jpe-2517412.JPG Dude that's friggin SWEET! I can't believe its lined up so well across the whole upper like that! |
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Originally Posted By ThisWildAdventure: Fixt. The drawback of not having a manual for the KAC/RQE/UnicornTears bridge is not knowing all its secrets until it decides to share them with you. Just saw one for $900 last week. https://i.imgur.com/4jt9leUh.jpg Originally Posted By ThisWildAdventure: Originally Posted By French1966: But then you end up spending $1K+ and still have to deal with that eye relief disparity between the two. Fixt. The drawback of not having a manual for the KAC/RQE/UnicornTears bridge is not knowing all its secrets until it decides to share them with you. Just saw one for $900 last week. https://i.imgur.com/4jt9leUh.jpg @ThisWildAdventure I’m happy to see it just took some additional adjustments. Looks badass, and would love to have one of those bridges (if only my pockets were a little deeper). The fact that it seemingly has independent eye relief adjustments makes it well worth the money |
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Originally Posted By ThisWildAdventure: Fixt. The drawback of not having a manual for the KAC/RQE/UnicornTears bridge is not knowing all its secrets until it decides to share them with you. Just saw one for $900 last week. https://i.imgur.com/4jt9leUh.jpg Off to check my bridge! ETA: ah, you moved the obverse shoe. I'm using the weapons mount one and a coti ring. Hmm. Maybe though. |
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Here is a little trick I accidentally came up with if you want to run a ocular sacrificial lens or filter on your RH25 and don’t mind chopping up the eyecup. Cut along this line as straight and cleanly as possible Attached File Put the chopped eyecup ring back on and then pop in your threaded filter/sac lens of choice. Holds it as if made for it. Attached File Attached File I’m thinking amber could potentially help reduce eye strain during long sessions. Also seems to have an interesting effect on contrast. May/may not play well with your bridged NV color, I haven’t tested it yet. Attached File Attached File Also, a lanyard option for those using the 02A butler creeks. Cap acts as a block that holds the lanyard wire from coming loose of the post. Probably a way to make it more secure, but better than nothing until I find a different solution (maybe incorporating the 2nd post). Cap blocks the very thin lanyard point that is built in to the unit. Attached File |
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Super clever 👍 I wonder if they make green filters; might help with my dual setup because all my PVS-14 are GP like the poors run. If you could find the right size OD glass filter itself the eyecup ridges could probably just hold the glass directly without the PVS14 filter ring making it even mo’ cheapa. I’ve trimmed several eyecups just to trim them shorter. The best way I’ve found is insert the right sized socket or dowel rod into them that fits the ridges’ ID perfectly, then roll a razor/knife around the eyecup groove so you have a hard similarly curved surface to cut straight against. It’s not hard otherwise, but this makes it cleaner. |
Dear NASA,
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
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Also, I had a thought… The KVC Bridge is basically unobtainium or sells for quite the premium when someone decides to sell one. The big prize being that it can use the obverse shoe for flipping the RH25 and PVS14 positions… Don’t the PVS housings likes a Vyper-14 or the KVC upgraded housing (or any others) usually have 2-3 housing mount points for dovetails? Wouldn’t that perform the same function as the (unobtainable) KVC OSS in flipping the battery housing for flopping the RH25/PVS14? Housing only cost $200-300, not that cheap, but not that expensive and more importantly you can actually buy them. Seems to me a SOTAC chicom Wilcox Dual Bridge and new PVS housing would give you 80-90% of the KVC bridge at 1/4th the cost. 
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Dear NASA,
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
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@French1966 & @Millennial You two have seriously made this Thread worth subscribing to. Speaking for myself, I highly appreciate your input because my familiarity with all these devices and accessories is a self afflicted need. My RH & PVS14 have spent more time in the case than on my grape. I even asked Frenchie if I can send him everything I have to assemble! Seriously though, the addition of all your photos & illustrations is truly helpful. When life gets in the way of tactical training, that's when you know you're losing the edge you once had.
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Attached File |
Dear NASA,
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
|
Originally Posted By Millennial: Super clever 👍 I wonder if they make green filters; might help with my dual setup because all my PVS-14 are GP like the poors run. If you could find the right size OD glass filter itself the eyecup ridges could probably just hold the glass directly without the PVS14 filter ring making it even mo’ cheapa. I’ve trimmed several eyecups just to trim them shorter. The best way I’ve found is insert the right sized socket or dowel rod into them that fits the ridges’ ID perfectly, then roll a razor/knife around the eyecup groove so you have a hard similarly curved surface to cut straight against. It’s not hard otherwise, but this makes it cleaner. Equally clever points… I hadn’t thought about a green filter, as I’m sure they are available. My 14 is also green so it would probably help me out too. I’ll be using the socket idea in the future also. The housing idea is a great one as well. I need to go look at the Vyper & KAC housing. I owned a Vyper at one point but never paid the additional mounting points any mind until now Attached File |
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Originally Posted By GunnyFitz: Go back and read page 5. I believe its discussed there. Reading page 5 is what made me realize its a laser aperture but there's no information about how to enable it or whether its even possible. I'm not necessarily looking for a guide on how to enable it, so much as I'm wondering whether it's enabled on other units available in other parts of the world as it appears iRay enables different feature sets based on where its sold (ie, no reticles enabled in Canada). If it's available on the European version for instance, perhaps its possible to enable it by downloading the euro version of the software. Perhaps this would come at the cost of certain other features but I could then decide whether its a tradeoff worth making for my purposes. If nothing else, consider me an interested party for further development on this topic if someone is doing research on it. |
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Originally Posted By racastaneda: Reading page 5 is what made me realize its a laser aperture but there's no information about how to enable it or whether its even possible. I'm not necessarily looking for a guide on how to enable it, so much as I'm wondering whether it's enabled on other units available in other parts of the world as it appears iRay enables different feature sets based on where its sold (ie, no reticles enabled in Canada). If it's available on the European version for instance, perhaps its possible to enable it by downloading the euro version of the software. Perhaps this would come at the cost of certain other features but I could then decide whether its a tradeoff worth making for my purposes. If nothing else, consider me an interested party for further development on this topic if someone is doing research on it. Originally Posted By racastaneda: Originally Posted By GunnyFitz: Go back and read page 5. I believe its discussed there. Reading page 5 is what made me realize its a laser aperture but there's no information about how to enable it or whether its even possible. I'm not necessarily looking for a guide on how to enable it, so much as I'm wondering whether it's enabled on other units available in other parts of the world as it appears iRay enables different feature sets based on where its sold (ie, no reticles enabled in Canada). If it's available on the European version for instance, perhaps its possible to enable it by downloading the euro version of the software. Perhaps this would come at the cost of certain other features but I could then decide whether its a tradeoff worth making for my purposes. If nothing else, consider me an interested party for further development on this topic if someone is doing research on it. I am inclined to believe that the laser is removed completely. I say this because I seem to recall Nick Chen from the firearm blog opening a MH25 and the laser was removed (empty space in housing where it was supposed to be). I would assume they did the same with the RH I won’t be opening mine to find out though |
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Originally Posted By French1966: Also, a lanyard option for those using the 02A butler creeks. Cap acts as a block that holds the lanyard wire from coming loose of the post. Probably a way to make it more secure, but better than nothing until I find a different solution (maybe incorporating the 2nd post). Cap blocks the very thin lanyard point that is built in to the unit. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/496867/524AC036-B92E-4871-B718-A4BF981E7BCB_jpe-2518354.JPG I came here about to ask who was running a Butler Creek cap for the objective lens and if so what size. Looks like 02A is the way to go. Thanks French! I received my PFN640+ (RH25 international version) just yesterday and have been pretty impressed with it thus far. It's my first thermal and my only other thermal experience comes from the military with old school PAS13s and whatever other variant there was. What are you guys doing for NUC settings? Either Auto or Manual? I notice when in Auto there's some "clicking" noises and a brief stutter. Can't replicate, but I'm assuming it all surrounding the NUC |
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Originally Posted By Zone0ne: I came here about to ask who was running a Butler Creek cap for the objective lens and if so what size. Looks like 02A is the way to go. Thanks French! I received my PFN640+ (RH25 international version) just yesterday and have been pretty impressed with it thus far. It's my first thermal and my only other thermal experience comes from the military with old school PAS13s and whatever other variant there was. What are you guys doing for NUC settings? Either Auto or Manual? I notice when in Auto there's some "clicking" noises and a brief stutter. Can't replicate, but I'm assuming it all surrounding the NUC Originally Posted By Zone0ne: Originally Posted By French1966: Also, a lanyard option for those using the 02A butler creeks. Cap acts as a block that holds the lanyard wire from coming loose of the post. Probably a way to make it more secure, but better than nothing until I find a different solution (maybe incorporating the 2nd post). Cap blocks the very thin lanyard point that is built in to the unit. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/496867/524AC036-B92E-4871-B718-A4BF981E7BCB_jpe-2518354.JPG I came here about to ask who was running a Butler Creek cap for the objective lens and if so what size. Looks like 02A is the way to go. Thanks French! I received my PFN640+ (RH25 international version) just yesterday and have been pretty impressed with it thus far. It's my first thermal and my only other thermal experience comes from the military with old school PAS13s and whatever other variant there was. What are you guys doing for NUC settings? Either Auto or Manual? I notice when in Auto there's some "clicking" noises and a brief stutter. Can't replicate, but I'm assuming it all surrounding the NUC Yeah the 02A fits perfect. Acts as a quick throw focus lever whenever deployed open. Quick tip for the butler creek cap: focus to your max desired distance and set the butler creek to contact the battery compartment. Acts as a focus stop, which comes in handy for clip on use. Certainly is an awesome first thermal I do auto NUC. All the clicking is perfectly normal and expected. |
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Originally Posted By BBOHACH: Any recommendations on how to secure the RH25 to the rifle for when using (similar to nods tie downs but maybe more QD)? I’m a caveman pretty much and have already dropped my RH25, albeit a distance of only about 4in from the rifle to ground while in the prone. It’s not related to the ADM mount at all, but It’s happened to me a couple times when taking it from clip-on to handheld use and back. Due to me fumbling around while taking it off in awkward side prone positions in the dark. Would suck to have it happen on a slope and your thermal goes rolling down a hill or cliff. I haven’t figured out a solution other than what I’m already using (pictured above). The boomerang tool Co. lanyard or something similar could be attached on a rifle sling swivel stud (perhaps the opposite side of the rail that you don’t use). Then the cable will go up to the unit which has that QD tether point that comes with the lanyard. A QD sling swivel stud would be great for positioning anywhere on a quad rail or 12oclock near the unit. Edit: Actually I think I just came up with a decent idea for taking care of the unit side as far as a retention point. I’ll post pictures shortly… @BBOHACH This isn’t exactly how I plan to place it, but it’s a quick example. My cap blocks the built in lanyard point, so half of this might not apply to you. But to get you thinking about ideas… You can do just about anything with zipties, shock/550 cord, micro s-biners, etc… again, this is a thrown together example that isn’t thought out 100%. I did have to consider not obscuring my offset red dot, hence the odd placement Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By BBOHACH: Weirder things have happened. Been in the army long enough that it needs to have some sort of simple tie down lol Originally Posted By BBOHACH: Originally Posted By Millennial: Why would it come off? ADM mounts are excellent Weirder things have happened. Been in the army long enough that it needs to have some sort of simple tie down lol I’m from the same school of thought. Every sensitive item got tied down wether it “needed” to be or not. Saved more than a few people from serious trouble. A $6k thermal, definitely. |
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Originally Posted By French1966: Yeah the 02A fits perfect. Acts as a quick throw focus lever whenever deployed open. Quick tip for the butler creek cap: focus to your max desired distance and set the butler creek to contact the battery compartment. Acts as a focus stop, which comes in handy for clip on use. Certainly is an awesome first thermal I do auto NUC. All the clicking is perfectly normal and expected. Originally Posted By French1966: Yeah the 02A fits perfect. Acts as a quick throw focus lever whenever deployed open. Quick tip for the butler creek cap: focus to your max desired distance and set the butler creek to contact the battery compartment. Acts as a focus stop, which comes in handy for clip on use. Certainly is an awesome first thermal I do auto NUC. All the clicking is perfectly normal and expected. Thanks for the clarification French and will do on the cap, it should arrive today. Originally Posted By BBOHACH: Weirder things have happened. Been in the army long enough that it needs to have some sort of simple tie down lol I agree. Especially when you can't write off the loss of your own gear as a field loss. |
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Originally Posted By BBOHACH: This thing is pretty sweet. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/314960/73982736-9179-4146-92CE-A8C72CC9B810_jpe-2531757.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/314960/00D0A824-8A60-43AA-AA66-A0AF3E540039_jpe-2531761.JPG Yeah it is. It’s probably the RECCEiest mini-RECCE that ever RECCEied. Is that PFalcon or painted RH25? (I wonder if iRayUSA would warrant a painted RH25…) Is that a 1.7” mount? It’s pretty close. You know, at first I was kind of soured the MQD Pictail mount was such an odd height, but being a middling height it literally seems to work with everything 1.5”-1.75” instead of picking a definitive absolute or lower-1/3 height. There’s too much industry variation on “lower-1/3” and I think iRay churned out a solution that works great with most things instead of perfect with one thing and then merely OK with others. |
Dear NASA,
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
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Originally Posted By BBOHACH: This thing is pretty sweet. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/314960/73982736-9179-4146-92CE-A8C72CC9B810_jpe-2531757.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/314960/00D0A824-8A60-43AA-AA66-A0AF3E540039_jpe-2531761.JPG What an awesome setup |
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Very nice. I did this using an astronomy dark green filter on my thermals so I can use them and fuse with I2 better... :) G. Originally Posted By French1966: Here is a little trick I accidentally came up with if you want to run a ocular sacrificial lens or filter on your RH25 and don’t mind chopping up the eyecup. Cut along this line as straight and cleanly as possible Put the chopped eyecup ring back on and then pop in your threaded filter/sac lens of choice. Holds it as if made for it. I’m thinking amber could potentially help reduce eye strain during long sessions. Also seems to have an interesting effect on contrast. May/may not play well with your bridged NV color, I haven’t tested it yet. Also, a lanyard option for those using the 02A butler creeks. Cap acts as a block that holds the lanyard wire from coming loose of the post. Probably a way to make it more secure, but better than nothing until I find a different solution (maybe incorporating the 2nd post). Cap blocks the very thin lanyard point that is built in to the unit. |
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Originally Posted By gman1971: Very nice. I did this using an astronomy dark green filter on my thermals so I can use them and fuse with I2 better... :) G. Link to filter? Does it work better I have GP I2. I find that black-hot scene fuses best, but I love the white-hot with highlighted red hot spots. It’s attention grabbing ability for quick detection and scanning is crazy. But the white hot doesn’t seem to fuse as well with my GP. I use it anyways because the red hot spot is that good. I wish the software had a black-hot red-highlight mode. They can delete the rainbow/color mode altogether. That’s clownshoes for pretty much anything 
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Dear NASA,
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
|
Originally Posted By gman1971: Been eyeing this thermal for a while. How does this device compare to the FLIR Breach or the Steiner C35? Thanks. G. Breach is helmet only and less than half the resolution. It will detect OK on a helmet, but will struggle to PID anything further out. Remember, there IS a difference between detection and PID. Most people using thermal to detect and I2 to make the shot won’t be bothered by that. C35 is a thicc brick with a tumor hanging off the side that only takes unprotected 18650 batteries and has worse display resolution and its 35mm/f1.0 lens has less than half the FOV of the RH25 (7.1 vs 17.5 degrees). It’s MUCH more primarily geared towards medium range clip-on use (with something like a 1-10x LPVO) that can also happen to double as a 1X HMT or handheld if needed. The RH25 is primarily more of a scanner that happens to work well as a clip-on with LPVOs up to ~5x. If it makes sense; the C35 is more of a clip-on and the RH25 is more of an HMT. Going on specs alone (never looked through one) I think the C35 made more sense when it was $4500ish in-line with other 640 clipons. At around $6000ish I think the handiness of the RH25 wins out. Also keep in mind, a lot of the “big name” brands that offer thermals (Sig, Steiner, etc.) are not OEMs. They mostly just rebrand them. iRay, FLIR, EOTech (L3com) are actual places making these. This seems to happen pretty frequently with electro-optics. |
Dear NASA,
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
|
Originally Posted By Diz: Just for shits n giggles, SOTAC has a new RQE clone out for a buck sixty eight. Since the real one is unobtainable... Do they have the KVC OSS kit to go with it? That’s the real gem that lets you mount the RH25 on the left. Because the problem isn’t the bridges, but rather the battery housings. If you had an OSS, you could just as easily flip the mounting with the Wilcox bridges. I only see the RQE clone bridge. But it does look nice. |
Dear NASA,
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
I was big enough for your mom.
Sincerely,
Pluto
Iray RH25 Thermal Monocular Thread (Page 6 of 30)
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