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Posted: 12/31/2020 1:05:37 PM EDT
My gun safe is full, and iv been planning on getting another one, or a bigger one sometime in the near future. This monster showed up locally and i jumped on it, as i figured the price was just too good to pass up on it, considering how big it is. theres no way i could buy even a big box gun safe 1/2 this big for the same price, and this thing is way tougher and gigantic. i just could not pass it up.
anyway.. the bad... the guy does not have the combination.. however, its locked open, which is good, as i figured its pretty easy to work on if its open, vs if it was locked shut. its possible the dial is key locked, but i wont know for sure it has a key lock or if it is key locked until i pick it up this saturday. best i can tell it weighs between 2500 and 3500 lbs. heres all the data plate i have. ill post up the full data plate info when i get the safe saturday. the guy said he thought it was manufactured in the 1970's. i paid $500 bucks for it. the seller is loading it onto my trailer with his tractor... and ill unload it with my tractor onto concrete and roll it into my garage into my new reloading room / man cave. should be pretty simple, no stairs, basements, wood floors, going up, going down, etc involved. just tractor to trailer.. tractor to concrete and roll / drag / push it across the concrete it to where its going. biggest hurtle is a 1" lip, so should be pretty simple. here she is. its a Mosler, and its BIG.. 75" tall x 50" wide and 35" deep. ( i dont have the model number yet ) its insulated with concrete apparently. ill have to get new handles, and figure out the combo, or deal with a locked combo.. if i need a new lock set im considering going to a digital keypad. really wont know until i get it home. its supposed to work fine, just no combo etc. what can you tell me about this thing? any ideas on the wall / door steel thickness?  Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached Filemy plans are to put a new paint job on it, something cool on the doors.. either this, or vinyl cut stencils. and led interior lights.  Attached Filethen put in a new interior.. basically this ( or close to this ) im thinking racks on left and right with shelves in the center.  Attached Filethen put this ( or similar ) on one door. for mags and such  Attached Fileand this ( or similar ) on the other door.. for handguns  Attached File |
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Posted: 12/31/2020 1:47:57 PM EDT
[#1]
I'm jelly.
Nice score! |
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Posted: 12/31/2020 5:41:22 PM EDT
[#2]
If it's currently unlocked you can figure out the combo pretty easy by removing the back of the lock and watching the tumblers as you dial.
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Posted: 12/31/2020 5:49:00 PM EDT
[#3]
A safe technician can reset the combo, inspect for damage and lube for like $100
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Posted: 12/31/2020 5:59:38 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If it's currently unlocked you can figure out the combo pretty easy by removing the back of the lock and watching the tumblers as you dial. I was thinking it would be easy to do. If the dial is locked though I'll have to get a Smith. I'm considering putting a digital lock on it.. opinions ? |
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Posted: 12/31/2020 6:00:03 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: A safe technician can reset the combo, inspect for damage and lube for like $100 Good info thanks ! |
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Posted: 12/31/2020 10:12:30 PM EDT
[#6]
Wow. I hope your tractor is BIG.
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Posted: 12/31/2020 11:08:04 PM EDT
[#7]
great score!
However, that looks more like a media vault, not an actual safe. The emphasis on what you have is fire protection of documents or media, not security. So it won't have the one inch thick steel body of a tl safe. It should be thick concrete/ fire protection You could always take steps to bolster it or reinforce it, and it will easily offer better fire protection than a regular rsc. Can't wait to see what you come up with! |
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Posted: 1/1/2021 12:13:36 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I was thinking it would be easy to do. If the dial is locked though I'll have to get a Smith. I'm considering putting a digital lock on it.. opinions ? Quote HistoryQuoted: I was thinking it would be easy to do. If the dial is locked though I'll have to get a Smith. I'm considering putting a digital lock on it.. opinions ? That dial doesn't appear to be a locking dial. I wouldn't go digital but that's just me. Quoted: great score! However, that looks more like a media vault, not an actual safe. The emphasis on what you have is fire protection of documents or media, not security. So it won't have the one inch thick steel body of a tl safe. It should be thick concrete/ fire protection You could always take steps to bolster it or reinforce it, and it will easily offer better fire protection than a regular rsc. Can't wait to see what you come up with! It does have an SMNA Class A fire rating (4 hrs @ 2,000 degrees) plus drop rating. It's no slouch of a safe. And lets be honest, OP's biggest threat is a fire. A SMNA Class A fire rating is REALLY good, I would much rather have that than crazy burglary ratings. Additionally, it does have a partially visible UL label. The remainder of the contents of that label may reveal a burglary rating. However, it's not common for a safe to carry a SMNA fire rating and a UL burglary rating IIRC. But that doesn't mean it wouldn't pass the rating. It's still likely a very secure safe. I have an old Meilink UL listed document safe. It carries no UL burglary rating but it has the same S&G lock as my TL safe, it has composite concrete walls about 4" thick, and it has a UL listed relocking device. The average thief isn't getting in. So lack of burglary rating doesn't mean lack of burglary resistance, especially in document safes. |
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Posted: 1/1/2021 12:53:01 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That dial doesn't appear to be a locking dial. I wouldn't go digital but that's just me. It does have an SMNA Class A fire rating (4 hrs @ 2,000 degrees) plus drop rating. It's no slouch of a safe. And lets be honest, OP's biggest threat is a fire. A SMNA Class A fire rating is REALLY good, I would much rather have that than crazy burglary ratings. Additionally, it does have a partially visible UL label. The remainder of the contents of that label may reveal a burglary rating. However, it's not common for a safe to carry a SMNA fire rating and a UL burglary rating IIRC. But that doesn't mean it wouldn't pass the rating. It's still likely a very secure safe. I have an old Meilink UL listed document safe. It carries no UL burglary rating but it has the same S&G lock as my TL safe, it has composite concrete walls about 4" thick, and it has a UL listed relocking device. The average thief isn't getting in. So lack of burglary rating doesn't mean lack of burglary resistance, especially in document safes. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I was thinking it would be easy to do. If the dial is locked though I'll have to get a Smith. I'm considering putting a digital lock on it.. opinions ? That dial doesn't appear to be a locking dial. I wouldn't go digital but that's just me. Quoted: great score! However, that looks more like a media vault, not an actual safe. The emphasis on what you have is fire protection of documents or media, not security. So it won't have the one inch thick steel body of a tl safe. It should be thick concrete/ fire protection You could always take steps to bolster it or reinforce it, and it will easily offer better fire protection than a regular rsc. Can't wait to see what you come up with! It does have an SMNA Class A fire rating (4 hrs @ 2,000 degrees) plus drop rating. It's no slouch of a safe. And lets be honest, OP's biggest threat is a fire. A SMNA Class A fire rating is REALLY good, I would much rather have that than crazy burglary ratings. Additionally, it does have a partially visible UL label. The remainder of the contents of that label may reveal a burglary rating. However, it's not common for a safe to carry a SMNA fire rating and a UL burglary rating IIRC. But that doesn't mean it wouldn't pass the rating. It's still likely a very secure safe. I have an old Meilink UL listed document safe. It carries no UL burglary rating but it has the same S&G lock as my TL safe, it has composite concrete walls about 4" thick, and it has a UL listed relocking device. The average thief isn't getting in. So lack of burglary rating doesn't mean lack of burglary resistance, especially in document safes. Hey, good info !! Thanks !! 
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Posted: 1/1/2021 10:34:29 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Hey, good info !! Thanks !! No problem! You did good on your purchase! I would have dropped that on it and I'm very frugal. I paid $350 for my TL15 and $500 for my TL30. |
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Posted: 1/1/2021 10:53:09 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No problem! You did good on your purchase! I would have dropped that on it and I'm very frugal. I paid $350 for my TL15 and $500 for my TL30. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Hey, good info !! Thanks !! No problem! You did good on your purchase! I would have dropped that on it and I'm very frugal. I paid $350 for my TL15 and $500 for my TL30.   Ill try to post the data plates today, i REALLY want more info on this thing. |
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Posted: 1/1/2021 12:38:37 PM EDT
[#12]
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Posted: 1/1/2021 2:18:30 PM EDT
[#13]
I'm not seeing a T rating for tool attacks....
Pretty sure it is a media vault... Not a burglary safe. Probably North of $5k new? That being said, it is still a locking box that will easily stop smash and grab attacks, just like an rsc; But it can be fortified (or used in conjunction with alarms and other layers) AND It should be clearly ahead of an rsc in terms of fire protection, your biggest enemy. So I still think it was a great score  |
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Posted: 1/1/2021 4:36:39 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm not seeing a T rating for tool attacks.... Pretty sure it is a media vault... Not a burglary safe. Probably North of $5k new? That being said, it is still a locking box that will easily stop smash and grab attacks, just like an rsc; But it can be fortified (or used in conjunction with alarms and other layers) AND It should be clearly ahead of an rsc in terms of fire protection, your biggest enemy. So I still think it was a great score Any clue how thick tye outside might be ? I agree with your assessment, i can weld on some 1/4 or 3/8 ar500 down the road to up armor it . Shrug. Still happy with it !!
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Posted: 1/1/2021 5:00:57 PM EDT
[#15]
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Posted: 1/1/2021 5:48:25 PM EDT
[#16]
I discovered it was probably manufactured in late 1967 or early 1968... Which is REALLY cool, since i was born in 1968 !! Makes this safe a little more special !
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Posted: 1/1/2021 7:01:18 PM EDT
[#17]
Be mindful that a lot of those older safes use asbestos for insulation
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Posted: 1/1/2021 10:57:29 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I discovered it was probably manufactured in late 1967 or early 1968... Which is REALLY cool, since i was born in 1968 !! Makes this safe a little more special !
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Posted: 1/2/2021 5:00:39 PM EDT
[#19]
I got it home ! Yeah, it was a job. 100hp tractor loaded it, then using rope, straps n come along we laid it down. Drug it off with my tractor,and used a come along to stand it up, and tractor to push it into the garage. It's too wide to get thru the door in my room, gonna have to take the door and frame out to get it inside. Its 38" wide. Lol
Here it is, my buddy is 6'1" tall for reference.  Attached File Attached File Attached File38" deep  Attached File |
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Posted: 1/3/2021 12:03:43 AM EDT
[#20]
The safe is apparently " locked open ". The dial wont turn, and the bolts are retracted, and the handles wont turn.
Anyone know how to unlock it ? That's my first job, figure that out, and reset the combo. I'll have to cut a new doorway to get it into the room, and rebuild a wall around it.. basically build a nook in the wall for it, so the doors are iflush with the wallmore, and not way out in the room..then you can only get to the doors, as the rest has a wall built around it. yay, more projects ! 
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Posted: 1/3/2021 12:37:46 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The safe is apparently " locked open ". The dial wont turn, and the bolts are retracted, and the handles wont turn. Bolts don't usually lock open, however, on my old Meilink data safe there is a "safety button" that only allows the bolts to extend when the door is closed. I thinks it's to keep people from banging the bolts into the frame by extending the bolts before closing the door. Look for such button or release mechanism. If that fails are there any access panels on the back if the door so you can have a look to see if something is jamming or binding the bolt work? Be mindful that the insulation is likely asbestos and there is a relocking device, don't trigger that. Whatever you do, don't close the doors and lock the bolts before you have #1 verified the relocker isn't triggered and #2 found the combination. Bad day if you mistakenly do lock yourself out. |
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Posted: 1/3/2021 12:14:22 PM EDT
[#22]
teaching myself how to change the combo.
 Mosler Hand Change Combo Lock | Disassemble, Change combo. . |
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Posted: 1/3/2021 12:34:15 PM EDT
[#23]
its going to be a bit of work to get this thing installed. going to have to cut a new hole in a wall to get it inside the new addition i built on my garage the new hole will become a new doorway. then im rebuilding a partition wall and making a nook, like they make for refridgerators. the safe will set in the nook and all you will be able to see is the very front, its too heavy to move in after i built the nook, so im going to build the nook around it. position the safe in a 50" doorway, remove the wheels, and ill build a u shaped wall and slide it up against the back of the safe and bolt / screw it into position.
its a little work, but not really hard as i was not happy with that partition wall anyway. iv been looking for the best layout options to get the most usable space and most shelf area in my storage room and this seems to be the best layout plan. putting the safe in the nook accomplishes that, as well as help protect the sides and back from being easily accessed. my brother suggested just making a form and pouring 4" thick concrete and rebar on the sides and back to make it much tougher to break into and much more fire resistant. im considering it. obviously that would make it a permanent fixture and really hard to ever remove, but thats not a problem i care about. . i told my woman her best bet after im dead is to only date gun lovers, who would appreciate a big assed safe and not annoy her by bitching about having it removed. . heres some ms paint. the very bottom of my ms paint diagram is my main garage, the top is the new addition. the room on the left is the reloading room / man cave, the room on the right is for storage. the red box on the right is the new doorway ill cut to get the safe inside the new addition, the red box in the center is the safe in its new nook, when i rebuild the wall. the dimensions are off, that partition wall is like 12' long and the safe will take up almost half of that wall. this seems like the best option though, for my reloading room, and for the storage room to get the max use of space, shelving, and usable room. .  Attached File |
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Posted: 1/4/2021 9:05:47 PM EDT
[#24]
@buck19delta
I saw a safe life yours on marketplace today (listed for 3X the price). I took a screen shot of the handles if you'd like to see them. I can email or text them if the ad gets taken down. https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/item/706273346745872/?ref=browse_tab&search_query=Mosler&tracking=%7B%22qid%22%3A%226914060142223851553%22%2C%22mf_story_key%22%3A%223904797579538824%22%2C%22commerce_rank_obj%22%3A%22%7B%5C%22target_id%5C%22%3A3904797579538824%2C%5C%22target_type%5C%22%3A0%2C%5C%22primary_position%5C%22%3A-1%2C%5C%22ranking_signature%5C%22%3A0%2C%5C%22commerce_channel%5C%22%3A503%2C%5C%22value%5C%22%3A0%2C%5C%22upsell_type%5C%22%3Anull%7D%22%7D |
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Posted: 1/4/2021 11:22:04 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @buck19delta I saw a safe life yours on marketplace today (listed for 3X the price). I took a screen shot of the handles if you'd like to see them. I can email or text them if the ad gets taken down. https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/item/706273346745872/?ref=browse_tab&search_query=Mosler&tracking=%7B%22qid%22%3A%226914060142223851553%22%2C%22mf_story_key%22%3A%223904797579538824%22%2C%22commerce_rank_obj%22%3A%22%7B%5C%22target_id%5C%22%3A3904797579538824%2C%5C%22target_type%5C%22%3A0%2C%5C%22primary_position%5C%22%3A-1%2C%5C%22ranking_signature%5C%22%3A0%2C%5C%22commerce_channel%5C%22%3A503%2C%5C%22value%5C%22%3A0%2C%5C%22upsell_type%5C%22%3Anull%7D%22%7D Yup, looks the same. Iv got one handle, but it's missing the mounting screw / pin. Ill track some down, or make something that will work. |
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Posted: 1/5/2021 2:33:13 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yup, looks the same. Iv got one handle, but it's missing the mounting screw / pin. Ill track some down, or make something that will work. Good deal! Just wanted to make sure you knew what the handles look like. Were you able to look for a "bolt interlock button" that may be preventing the bolts from extending when the door is open? |
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Posted: 1/5/2021 5:00:55 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Good deal! Just wanted to make sure you knew what the handles look like. Were you able to look for a "bolt interlock button" that may be preventing the bolts from extending when the door is open? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Yup, looks the same. Iv got one handle, but it's missing the mounting screw / pin. Ill track some down, or make something that will work. Good deal! Just wanted to make sure you knew what the handles look like. Were you able to look for a "bolt interlock button" that may be preventing the bolts from extending when the door is open? Yes. It's got one, if just been busy the last few days and had no time to mess with it. 1. I'm going to get it operational, 2. then clean it, 3. then paint it, ( red ) 4. Then around Feb 1st cut the new doorway and move it to it's new spot, and build the wall around it. |
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Posted: 1/6/2021 5:58:41 PM EDT
[#28]
I got everything working.!
Opened up the combination lock and figured out tye combination.. 75-30-50 Practiced a few times, then locked the door shut, did the combo and reopened it ! . Ill put a new combination in before i use it. Still need to clean, lube, and tighten a few linkages in the doors, but its 100% operational now !! ( took like 30 min to take it apart and figure everything out. ) |
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Posted: 1/7/2021 12:59:38 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I got everything working.! Opened up the combination lock and figured out tye combination.. 75-30-50 Practiced a few times, then locked the door shut, did the combo and reopened it ! . Ill put a new combination in before i use it. Still need to clean, lube, and tighten a few linkages in the doors, but its 100% operational now !! ( took like 30 min to take it apart and figure everything out. ) Awesome! My dad bought an old Herring Hall & Marvin safe at an auction for a couple hundred dollars |
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Posted: 1/7/2021 11:04:52 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Awesome! My dad bought an old Herring Hall & Marvin safe at an auction for a couple hundred dollars Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I got everything working.! Opened up the combination lock and figured out tye combination.. 75-30-50 Practiced a few times, then locked the door shut, did the combo and reopened it ! . Ill put a new combination in before i use it. Still need to clean, lube, and tighten a few linkages in the doors, but its 100% operational now !! ( took like 30 min to take it apart and figure everything out. ) Awesome! My dad bought an old Herring Hall & Marvin safe at an auction for a couple hundred dollars i cant say im super happy with the way this thing locks up, its kind of lame as shit honestly. i understand its not a " safe" safe, designed to prevent burglaries..but a fire proof container more or less. its about as secure as a regular gun safe, just MUCH bigger, with MUCH better fire protection. that said.. i dont see any reason i cant use this as the basis to build it into a MUCH better safe. bigger, stronger, faster ! i love projects though, and this thing was cheap enough to use as a good base. my idea. 1. take the safe and move into position. 2. remove the wheels, and probably the base stand. sitting it flat on the floor, and weld angle iron brackets to all 4 corners and bolt it to the slab. 3. build a rebar cage around it, with rebar going thru the slab, and covering the sides, back, and top. 4. weld a 3/16" steel form around the sides and back, about 4-6" deep. 5. fill with concrete. 6. weld on top plate. 7. build wall around the back of safe creating the nook. 8.. weld a 1/4" thick ar500 plate onto the front. ( even 1/4" mild steel would be a big improvement ) 9. upgrade the locking system. ( pretty easy actually. ) im planning on using 3/4" grade 8 bolts for the new longer locking lugs i think the uparmor job could be done for maybe $1000 -1500 bucks with scrap yard sourced steel i get cheap / facebook marketplace steel deals. the concrete will add a ton of fire protection, and be cheaper and probably more secure than my original idea to weld 1/4" steel to the sides and back. so, $1000-$1500 to uparmor it, then another $500 for a new interior. so, for around $2500 all in, ill have a new gigantic, high security safe. i know it will be a permanent feature and SUPER hard to ever remove.. but im good with that, as is my wife. |
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Posted: 1/7/2021 11:57:10 AM EDT
[#31]
It was an excellent purchase OP. I wish you good fortune in this endeavor. You made out very well. Keep the updates rolling and thanks for sharing.
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Posted: 1/7/2021 4:27:48 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: i cant say im super happy with the way this thing locks up, its kind of lame as shit honestly. i understand its not a " safe" safe, designed to prevent burglaries.. Just curious but why are you not happy with it? The bolts seem undersized compared to modern RSCs? Bolts and fancy boltwork on modern safes is all for show. A good hard bolt even modestly sized will hold back a lot. My TL safe has only a few puny little bolts. But they're placed properly and designed properly. You have to keep in mind that these things, while dated, were built before the race to the bottom of quality and they're built by REAL safe companies that knew what they were doing. |
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Posted: 1/7/2021 5:00:00 PM EDT
[#33]
I love the safe overall.
Ill have it installed in a few weeks in its new spot, then start on the interior gun racks. I might do a few upgrades, but realistically thats all. Doubt ill do a huge amount, as realistically this is plenty of safe for my uses. |
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Posted: 1/8/2021 10:57:43 AM EDT
[#34]
Are you still going to paint it? I have often thought about finding a old safe and having a nice gloss paint job done.
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Posted: 1/8/2021 10:24:42 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Are you still going to paint it? I have often thought about finding a old safe and having a nice gloss paint job done. Yup. Prob red, with white vinyl stencils. |
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Posted: 2/4/2021 12:24:20 PM EDT
[#36]
Updates.
I have the combination fixed and everything working. I also just purchased four sheets of 1/4" diamond plate steel for $375.00. I'm going to use the steel to uparmor the back, sides and top of the safe before installing it. I know it probably does not need the extra steel, but I know when I'm finished with this I'll be much happier and more satisfied knowing I did it. Remember, while the door steel is 1/4" thick, the rest of the safe is only approx 10 gage steel like a normal gun safe and easily cut thru. The 1/4 inch diamond plate will be a huge improvement. It's a little crusty...but nothing some sanding and grinding with a angle grinder cant fix. I'll be adding about 900lbs of steel to the safe with this project.  Attached FileIt's easy to do.. it's got a " lip" that runs around the edges. My plan is to clean everything up. Cut the panels to fit, and put construction adhesive behind each panel before welding to help lock the plate on tighter, so someone cant just cut the weld and pull off the uparmor panel. Just cut to fit. Slide in armor planel, glue and weld. Heres the lip I'll be putting the armored panel into. This will make armoring it easy and Should turn out nice / almost factory looking once it's done and painted.  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 2/4/2021 6:16:20 PM EDT
[#37]
Keep the updates coming!
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Posted: 2/6/2021 11:26:12 AM EDT
[#38]
Started cutting the steel yesterday. This first sheet is covered in thick paint, it's going to take several hours to get it all cleaned off before it will be ready to weld. It's in the diamond plate notches so I cant just grind it off. It's coming out pretty easy via chipping though. ill pick up a few wire wheels for my angle grinder today so ill be able to clean out the diamond plate pattern down to bare steel.
Luckily this is the only piece of steel that's got paint on it. The other pieces should go much faster. I'll do the uparmor now, paint it second, ( prob in 2 weeks ) place the safe third, ( prob first - middle of march ) build the wall around it forth ( first - middle of march ) and then I'll start working on the interior, probably get to the interior in about 2 months or so. ( april approx ) Then it will be finished. I cut them just slightly larger than needed, and going to carefully grind the sides to get a super tight fit for better welding. I want to be forced to tap them in with a hammer, and thus fit super friction fit before I weld, which will be better in many ways. also. i think im going to take some of this scrap diamond plate steel and make a 6" tall " box / frame " out of it, well, a form. insert anchor bolts into the slab and some rebar in the form and use it to make a concrete form / pad for the safe to sit on. ill unbolt the safes wheel frame and pull it onto the new pad, and bolt it down to the concrete. the diamond plate base should look pretty nice once painted and safe in position on it. once the safe is bolted down, ill build a wall / nook around it thats lined with about 1" of drywall for extra fire resistence.  Attached File |
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Posted: 2/9/2021 10:27:28 AM EDT
[#39]
about to start attaching the first piece of armor. this piece weights around 200lbs.
 Attached FileIts welded on, cant finish until I remove the strap, and cant remove the strap until the epoxy sets fully.  Attached File |
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Posted: 2/17/2021 9:39:59 PM EDT
[#40]
wow i am jealous! i grew up 3 blocks away from the mosler safe company. had an aunt and uncle retire from there. uncle was a welder. walked and rode my bike past there who knows how many times. really hurt the comunity when they shut down. sad there is a kroger there now.....
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Posted: 2/18/2021 2:49:18 PM EDT
[#41]
The first panel is done and turned out great, cant work on it right now due to outside weather. I'll be working on it next week when temps are in the 40*. Next week I should get the other side and top finished, and then get the back in 2 weeks.
Cleaning the thick paint off the steel takes much more time than cutting / welding does. The first side took approx 2 hours to clean of paint. It's a fun project though, I'd have been done 2 weeks ago if weather had cooperated.  Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 2/26/2021 7:21:06 PM EDT
[#42]
Put the last piece on today ! Also the biggest piece, 47"x 65".
Still need to clean it up a little, and primer it but the uparmor job is basically done. woop !  Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 3/12/2021 7:11:14 PM EDT
[#43]
i got the exterior painted, went with gloss black and red. think it turned out ok, probably add a few white vinyl decals to it later. next will be installing it, ill start on that next week. iv got to cut a hole in the wall, move safe inside, install new door frame and door, cut hole in partition wall, move safe into position and bolt down and build the wall back around it. ill finish the safe interior last.
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Posted: 3/12/2021 10:05:22 PM EDT
[#44]
Looking great.
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Posted: 3/12/2021 10:28:21 PM EDT
[#45]
That came out great.
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Posted: 3/12/2021 10:50:16 PM EDT
[#46]
I have the same safe. Ex-USN. It was well over 2,000 pounds.
Have modified the inside just as you sketched up. Converted it to use a Kaba Mas X10 EMP proof lock....also surplus. |
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Posted: 3/18/2021 6:32:50 PM EDT
[#47]
Got the safe mostly installed today.
still lots of paint n trim left, but it's in! Attached File Attached FileGot me a new door sign for the gun room as well.  Attached File |
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Posted: 3/22/2021 9:25:44 PM EDT
[#48]
Finished bolting it down today, used eleven 1/2 " concrete anchors, also used red locktite on everything. Next is building wall around the sides and back.
Right side.  Attached FileBack  Attached FileLeft side.  Attached FileFront. Going to put diamond plate to cover the gap on the bottom.  Attached File |
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Posted: 3/25/2021 6:07:46 PM EDT
[#49]
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Posted: 3/26/2021 5:00:46 PM EDT
[#50]
Great progress
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