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Posted: 5/18/2016 8:19:06 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BIGGDAWG: yes those plugs work i know a few guys using them.  |
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Posted: 5/19/2016 10:28:46 AM EDT
[#2]
I love threads like this
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Posted: 5/19/2016 10:36:45 AM EDT
[#3]
thanks been out designing my own wildcats
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Posted: 5/19/2016 5:10:44 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bags533:
I didn't look through the entire 60 page thread, so I apologize if this has been covered. Has anyone used an end cap like this? Gripper Plug I used one, but I remember having to replace the wing nut with a standard nut as the wings rubbed against something IIRC. But otherwise it worked fine. |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 5/26/2016 8:39:13 PM EDT
[#5]
has anyone tried the ceramic media like buffalo arms sells?
my brother uses them with black powder cartridges in a thumblers and it works great. maybe not heavy enough for this type of drum????????????? |
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Posted: 5/27/2016 1:47:16 AM EDT
[#6]
I use the BA ceramic in the small BigDawg tumbler to clean .44 wcf and .45 Colt loaded with Black Powder because I had them around from using them in a RCBS tumbler. Works fine. I use the pins for the smokeless and BP rifle cases .45 gov't and .38-55 in the large BD tumbler..
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CA, USA
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Posted: 8/19/2016 1:12:11 AM EDT
[Last Edit: lopus68]
[#7]
Sorry to revive an old thread...I've read though this entire thread over the last few nights and have decided to take the plunge in building a Biggdawg style tumbler. It has not been with out issues:
I jumped the gun and bought a 3 phase motor - I now have to re-sell. Damn! Bought a air over duty motor - do I need to wire in a fan to keep it cool during it's 2-4 hr cleaning cycle? Was thinking of a 110 CFM 120 x 120 mm fan Motor #2 is a 1075 rpm motor 5/8" shaft (I think). I'll be running 1/2 SS shafts. The motor pulley is going to be 1.5". Should I run a 4" or 3.75" pulley to hit the magic 60-70 RPM target? Running a 6" drum 16" long. I'd do the math myself if I could understand the math to begin with - MATH IS HARD! (for me) So far I've purchased: 4 - 1/2" pillow bearings, 4 - 1/2" collars, pipe, end cap, 6 x 4" bell reducer (+ 2 motors!) I think I'm going to either weld the frame or build it out of 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" extruded T-Slot Thank you all in advance! Humbly yours, Lou |
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SC, USA
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Posted: 8/19/2016 9:38:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: MarkBinSC]
[#8]
I would estimate your tumbler RPM at
1075 x 1.5 / 4 = 403 rpm drive shaft 0.5 x 403 / 6 = 33.6 rpm tumbler with a 3.75 pulley, you should hit 35.6 rpm If you want to get 70, you need to use the 3.75 pulley and 1 inch drive shaft. That would give you 71.2 rpm . The calcs above don't take into account the added thickness of the rubber on the drive shaft. If the hose is 1/4 thick, the half inch shaft will grow to one inch and get your 71.2 rpm. Everyone feel free to review my calculations and make corrections. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 8/19/2016 10:41:47 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MarkBinSC:
I would estimate your tumbler RPM at 1075 x 1.5 / 4 = 403 rpm drive shaft 0.5 x 403 / 6 = 33.6 rpm tumbler with a 3.75 pulley, you should hit 35.6 rpm If you want to get 70, you need to use the 3.75 pulley and 1 inch drive shaft. That would give you 71.2 rpm . The calcs above don't take into account the added thickness of the rubber on the drive shaft. If the hose is 1/4 thick, the half inch shaft will grow to one inch and get your 71.2 rpm. Everyone feel free to review my calculations and make corrections. Thanks for the formula Mark! I'll be using 1/2" ID fuel line for my shafts so 1" sounds about right. So then the 3.75" pulley would get me 71.66 RPM vs 67.16 for the 4". I guess either one would be ok. I'll probably end up using the 3.75" factoring in the fact that a 6" drum is actually closer to 6.5" at the fittings - giving me 66.15 RPMs. Anyone have an opinion on the "air over duty" motor + external fan question? Thanks! |
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Posted: 8/19/2016 10:43:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#10]
Never heard of that type of motor.
Are you sure of your terminology? Maybe post a pic and I will recognize it. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 8/20/2016 12:31:58 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Never heard of that type of motor. Are you sure of your terminology? Maybe post a pic and I will recognize it. Here's a link to the motor (#2) It's a motor for a blower (AC) so it's normally cooled by the fact it's spinning a huge fan blade. I'm going to wire in a pancake fan just to be safe. Just realized, I'm going to have to build a motor mount for it. Crap! Always something... Also, I was just measuring my fittings in the garage and noticed that the diameter of the end cap is closer to 7-1/4". That seems to totally throw off the formula Mark gave out. It would seem like I need a 2" drive pulley and the driven pulley would need to be 4-1/4" for 69.77 RPM (driven by a 1075 RPM motor). 1075 x 2" / 4.25" = 505.88 1" x 505.88 / 7.25" = 69.77 RPM Seem right? Thanks! - Lou |
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Posted: 8/20/2016 9:24:53 AM EDT
[#12]
You can tell I'm not an ACR guy. Ya better rig a fan if motor runs hot. I would run tumbler first and see how hot the motor got. |
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Posted: 8/20/2016 2:53:44 PM EDT
[#13]
What is ideal rpm for the drum ? We are rigging up a 5 gallon bucket tumbler and it's spinning good maybe too fast ?
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Posted: 8/20/2016 6:28:00 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Easy_E: What is ideal rpm for the drum ? We are rigging up a 5 gallon bucket tumbler and it's spinning good maybe too fast ? |
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Posted: 8/20/2016 7:16:36 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By kaos:
I was spinning 5 gallon buckets at approx 52 to 55 rpm for 60 to 65 minutes. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By kaos:
Originally Posted By Easy_E:
What is ideal rpm for the drum ? We are rigging up a 5 gallon bucket tumbler and it's spinning good maybe too fast ? Thanks for the info |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 8/22/2016 10:53:16 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
You can tell I'm not an ACR guy. Ya better rig a fan if motor runs hot. I would run tumbler first and see how hot the motor got. As would I. I dont think the motor will have issues. Big motors like these spin the drums likes its childs play. If you have a problem, then do something about it. |
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Posted: 9/5/2016 6:41:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: GTLandser]
[#17]
This is my question: I have the exact Emerson 8000 1/4HP, 1725RPM motor from the OP, and I am using it to turn a 5 gallon water cooler jug (filled to about 2.5 gals, just below the neck when laid on its side) at about 60rpm. The motor gets almost too hot to touch in a matter of minutes. Wiring was done in accordance with the motor manual, and it does not spark or anything like that.
Should I be mounting a cooling fan or some vanes to dissipate this heat? I haven't even added brass or SS tumbling pins, so it's going to weigh even more fully loaded. I haven't determined the number of cases or amount of media I can safely add. |
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Posted: 9/5/2016 6:57:01 PM EDT
[#18]
How did you slow the rpm's ? I couldn't get my motor to start with a fan speed control
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Posted: 9/5/2016 7:12:15 PM EDT
[Last Edit: GTLandser]
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Easy_E:
How did you slow the rpm's ? I couldn't get my motor to start with a fan speed control Mine? I have a (I think) 2" pulley on the motor, and a 6" on the output shaft, and a v-belt in between. I am just estimating RPM's based on counting revs with a stopwatch. I tried an online calculator but it gave me goofy numbers. 
ETA: I think the main thing getting me the relatively low RPM is that the outer diameter of the water cooler jug is between 11-13". That probably has more to do with it than anything.
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Posted: 9/5/2016 8:31:47 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GTLandser:
Mine? I have a (I think) 2" pulley on the motor, and a 6" on the output shaft, and a v-belt in between. I am just estimating RPM's based on counting revs with a stopwatch. I tried an online calculator but it gave me goofy numbers.
ETA: I think the main thing getting me the relatively low RPM is that the outer diameter of the water cooler jug is between 11-13". That probably has more to do with it than anything. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GTLandser:
Originally Posted By Easy_E:
How did you slow the rpm's ? I couldn't get my motor to start with a fan speed control Mine? I have a (I think) 2" pulley on the motor, and a 6" on the output shaft, and a v-belt in between. I am just estimating RPM's based on counting revs with a stopwatch. I tried an online calculator but it gave me goofy numbers.
ETA: I think the main thing getting me the relatively low RPM is that the outer diameter of the water cooler jug is between 11-13". That probably has more to do with it than anything. The numbers I'm getting aren't working out either . I have some pillow blocks and pulleys may have to try it. |
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Posted: 9/5/2016 9:05:16 PM EDT
[#21]
Anyone still want to weigh in on the need/methods of reducing heat for the motor? If I am going to set this thing on a timer for a couple hours and walk away, I'd rather it not burn the garage down somehow.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 9/6/2016 7:57:29 PM EDT
[#22]
What kind of motor are you using? If it's an "Air Over Duty" motor, the fan you'd need to cool it is prohibitively large. I tried to run it without a load and it got to 145* within 10 minutes. I sent it back to the seller and am waiting for a new motor to get shipped out. It's a "Continuous Duty" (usually labeled: CONT on the ID plate of the motor).
- Lou |
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Posted: 9/6/2016 9:11:31 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lopus68:
What kind of motor are you using? If it's an "Air Over Duty" motor, the fan you'd need to cool it is prohibitively large. I tried to run it without a load and it got to 145* within 10 minutes. I sent it back to the seller and am waiting for a new motor to get shipped out. It's a "Continuous Duty" (usually labeled: CONT on the ID plate of the motor). - Lou Don't have the data plate handy right now. But it is this one: here Didn't see anything at the link about rating for CONT or AOD. It has never tripped the thermal protection, but it has gotten quite warm. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 9/10/2016 7:19:44 PM EDT
[#24]
How warm is "quite warm"? Can you leave your hand there for a more than a few seconds or is it immediately too hot to touch?
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Posted: 9/12/2016 9:42:32 PM EDT
[#25]
I could leave my hand there, but I wouldn't want to for an extended period of time. I think I was even using a light glove at the time (some of those foamflex ones, rubbery grippy palms and stretchy fabric backs, if you know what I mean). I could not detect any smell of burning or anything, and no unusual sounds coming from it, just whirring like a running motor...and hot.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 9/13/2016 5:05:27 PM EDT
[#26]
I just ran my motor for about 30 minutes and took it's temp with a laser thermometer. Peaked at about 130*. My old "air over" motor got to 145* in about 5 minutes. I think that's about as hot as the new one's going to get.
Can anyone with a laser thermometer take a reading next time they run a tumbler cycle? |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/3/2016 9:19:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: lopus68]
[#27]
I finally finished!!
Ended up building my tumbler from 80/20 1-1/2 inch (15 series) aluminum t-strut. 
Here's the requisite bling shot: 
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Posted: 10/21/2016 11:53:27 AM EDT
[#28]
Thanks to BIGDAWG and all who have posted. I took liberties with the initial design and decided to use a treadmill because it was free. It is not as cool as others out there but the price was right
Pro's: Free treadmill for parts Variable RPM with no torque loss. Runs cool. Just a few degrees above ambient temp during run time. Adjustable roller spacing.+/- 3/4". Also, can adjust if a drum likes to 'walk' on the rollers. Con's: Large foot print. After I was finished i realized I could have cut it down by another 12" and moved the controller bar closer to the motor. May still do that to fit on a bench. Additional wiring. Had to add a pot for the speed control, a main power switch and an additional switch to bypass the safety start. Locked into a single drum length due to the length of rollers. Wet is the way to go. 
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Posted: 12/28/2016 1:23:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: U-T]
[#29]
Great thread. Thanks for the inspiration.
I haven't built anything from steel and welded in a lot of years, and a close look will show how out of square my box is, but I got the top level at least. The frame is welded together (why didn't I think to use those magnetic corner squares??) and it looks crooked but it's all done and it works for me. Turns the buckets at ~33 rpm -1.5" x 1/8" angle iron. -Used, 1/2 hp GE motor. 1725 rpm. 1.5" drive pulley. -3/4" pillow bearings with 3/4" cold rolled steel rods wrapped in friction tape -6" large receiving pulley with two 3" pulleys to drive the second rod -Cheap lawnmower wheels from lowes held on by 1/2" carriage bolts. Longer 1/2" carriage bolts for the ground stands -I can fit a 2 gallon and 5 gallon bucket on simultaneously. Gamma lids used. 
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Posted: 1/1/2017 11:09:06 PM EDT
[#30]
Is any one building these type of units for sale?
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Posted: 1/1/2017 11:18:40 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By U-T:
Great thread. Thanks for the inspiration. I haven't built anything from steel and welded in a lot of years, and a close look will show how out of square my box is, but I got the top level at least. The frame is welded together (why didn't I think to use those magnetic corner squares??) and it looks crooked but it's all done and it works for me. Turns the buckets at ~33 rpm -1.5" x 1/8" angle iron. -Used, 1/2 hp GE motor. 1725 rpm. 1.5" drive pulley. -3/4" pillow bearings with 3/4" cold rolled steel rods wrapped in friction tape -6" large receiving pulley with two 3" pulleys to drive the second rod -Cheap lawnmower wheels from lowes held on by 1/2" carriage bolts. Longer 1/2" carriage bolts for the ground stands -I can fit a 2 gallon and 5 gallon bucket on simultaneously. Gamma lids used. No problems with the buckets walking ? |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/9/2017 6:53:32 PM EDT
[#32]
Has anyone proved if the fins inside the tube are required? I've used the HF rock polisher method for a while and that works great without anything inside.
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Posted: 2/9/2017 10:02:28 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Gage]
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By learfxr:
Has anyone proved if the fins inside the tube are required? I've used the HF rock polisher method for a while and that works great without anything inside. However, if a cylinder is used and there are no fins or other agitation, the media and shells will mostly just slide along the slope of the sideways cylinder. You need the fins to cause the media and shells to tumble. I have a Thumbler's Tumbler and it is hexagonal on the interior so the transition from one flat wall to the next over 60 degree angle cause the tumbling. You can experiment with a plastic or glass jar some pebbles and water. Fill the jar 1/3rd full of round pebbles and the rest with water. Cap it and roll it across a smooth surface and the pebbles will mostly just slide along the inner surface of the jar and not tumble. |
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Posted: 2/9/2017 10:36:00 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bags533:
I didn't look through the entire 60 page thread, so I apologize if this has been covered. Has anyone used an end cap like this? Gripper Plug The best plug setup I have found so far is a 4" test plug from Lowe's. It has a really big plastic wing nut so it's easy to use. The washer that it comes with doesn't allow it to expand enough so I chucked it and use a 4" Fernco bushing. It fits so perfect you only need about 2 turns to tighten it |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/9/2017 11:48:53 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Gage:
They are required. I have no "proof". However, if a cylinder is used and there are no fins or other agitation, the media and shells will mostly just slide along the slope of the sideways cylinder. You need the fins to cause the media and shells to tumble. I have a Thumbler's Tumbler and it is hexagonal on the interior so the transition from one flat wall to the next over 60 degree angle cause the tumbling. You can experiment with a plastic or glass jar some pebbles and water. Fill the jar 1/3rd full of round pebbles and the rest with water. Cap it and roll it across a smooth surface and the pebbles will mostly just slide along the inner surface of the jar and not tumble. The HF tumbler has nothing inside to agitate the materials, but it is a rubber material so I don't know if that is why it works. I picked up a small pvc pipe to cut up for the fins, but if it's not 100% needed it would be nice to skip that part. Figured it was worth asking about. Thanks |
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Posted: 2/10/2017 1:37:03 AM EDT
[#36]
I would argue they are NOT required. They may help, but in the 4" pipe I used to use before I built the larger tumbler with the 6" PVC I never had any fins and it did a pretty good job. I would say go for it, and if it works for you, great, if not, adding fins isn't that hard.
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Posted: 2/10/2017 9:21:59 AM EDT
[#37]
Please take comments on HF tumblers to the HF thread.
Let keep this thread only about home built/massive volume tumblers. HF tumbler thread |
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Posted: 11/25/2017 7:44:06 PM EDT
[#38]
Bump, just because this thread is worth it.
I'll leave this bit of advice as many have before. Mostly, for my own knowledge reinforcement. When you wet tumble cases after final prep (.223) to remove the case lube,etc. Clean your media and drum afterwards with a good de-greaser. First batch was pure gold, second looked like it was tumbled in manure. I sat and stared at the awful looking cases for about 10 minutes until the "dumbass" light came on in the old noggin. Good media and drum cleaning, we are back to making gold! |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 11/26/2017 9:50:54 PM EDT
[#39]
If you can put your hand on the motor and are able to keep it there around 10 or 15 seconds without burning yourself, the temp is around 135*F. That temp is fine for a motor. When you can't touch it without burning yourself, then that is way too hot.
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USA
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Posted: 11/27/2017 2:07:36 AM EDT
[#40]
I almost made a tumbler myself. I had a fan i kept from throwing away and scrapped the motor out of. I could do really small batches at a time. I abandoned it about halfway into making it. I'll use the motor for something else. I put up a cheap red dot sight i bought used for $30 and sold it for $35 and had that sitting in paypal jail. So i bought a frankford arsenal tumbler for 33.28 i think off of fleabay.
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VA, USA
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Posted: 2/17/2018 12:44:11 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Leo31]
[#41]
i need help on the size pulleys to order. I want to use a five gallon bucket. I have hard wired a 1725 rpm motor that I got on craigslist. I ordered two 1\2" stainless steel rods and four pillow bearings. In order to get the bucket approximately 60 rpm what size pulleys do I need and does the belt length matter? Thank you
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Posted: 2/17/2018 1:03:33 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Leo31:
i need help on the size pulleys to order. I want to use a five gallon bucket. I have hard wired a 1725 rpm motor that I got on craigslist. I ordered two 1\2" stainless steel rods and four pillow bearings. In order to get the bucket approximately 60 rpm what size pulleys do I need and does the belt length matter? Thank you |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 4/15/2020 4:08:58 AM EDT
[#43]
I know this is a really old thread but just wanted to say thanks. This is just what I've been looking for. Will work great for tumbling scuba tanks
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Posted: 5/25/2020 9:21:05 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BMD: Don't think I ever posted a pic of mine up, but here it is. I originaly made it with the intent of being a dual drum (small and large) but i don't think the motor is strong enough and the small drum alone is good enough for my purposes, hence the new frame on the bottom. Finaly got someone to show me how to weld... my welds look like crap but they should hold, still happy with it though, just needs some paint. https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3870/14243172459_7ea9c3effa_b.jpg @BMD What sort of motor and switch, and can you give me a rough parts list for your drum? Thanks! |
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NJ, USA
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Posted: 8/29/2020 5:14:11 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lilMAC25: @BMD What sort of motor and switch, and can you give me a rough parts list for your drum? Thanks! @lilMAC25 Sorry for the rather late reply... I was trying to find this thread to remember how much soap/lemishine I needed, life has been busy and haven't shot or reloaded anything in a few years, time to fix that. The motor is by GE, got it from my father who has his own HVAC business, so my guess is its a motor for a belt driven blower.  This is what the rig looks like after putting on the metal frame (never posted a pic of that).  Here's a pic of my timer, as it doesn't have a switch on the tumbler, as I just have an outlet box that I made with a built in timer.  .The drum itself is mostly the same as everyone elses described just with different agitators. 6" drainage pipe with an end cap and 6x4 reducer with a 4" rubber cap. For my agitators I used strips of composite decking boards as i had a small scrap piece, and it works well for my application. And todays proof that the rig still works. 
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Posted: 8/29/2020 5:26:22 PM EDT
[#46]
Thanks!
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