This is a broken bolt stop from a Ruger 10-22. I discovered it today when I took the rifle apart to install a trigger stop. Hard to believe. I have never even heard of one breaking. This rifle was bought new too so it isn't some abused pawn shop refugee rifle. Ruger is sending me another one. The trigger stop I was installing came from EBAY. It replaces the factory trigger reset detent, or whatever it's called, behind the trigger. Gave it a try and it works really well. Not expensive either.

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I put a rubber bolt stop that has a steel inner piece I scratched up from my junk box in that rifle and it ran fine. I think it is a Kidd. I'm going to leave it in there as long as it does. I couldn't really tell any difference though from behind the rifle. I'm not sure what kind of service life the after market buffer will have but I guess I will find out. I guess I will have the replacement factory part soon to put in if the rubber part gets disintegrated over time. The rifle shoots well though.  It is a super plain jane rifle with a Simmons 4X scope. While I had the rifle apart I checked the screws that hold the V block and barrel on and discovered they were loose. I see that a lot and it makes a big difference in how a rifle shoots. When I tightened them up it also moved my group down 2 MOA. Here is a 5 shot group from prone at 25 yards with CCI Blazer ammo after a sight adjustment. That is a 1" square. I can handle that



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mim

Is this the bolt “buffer”? If so, replace it with a flexible one and enjoy a quieter and smoother 22

Not totally sure, but guessing they are made of softer metal so it gets damaged and not your bolt.  I thought everyone replaced these with a soft buffer pin.  Buy an aftermarket unit from one of the many companies making them:

Kidd
TacSol
Volquartsen
Tandemkross

There are also a bunch of sellers on Ebay who make them and will work fine.  My preference are the Kidd ones as it's a little easier to get them in; by "easier", I mean taking a few seconds less.

It is. I tried those in past. An all synthetic material one and another one with a steel core and synthetic around it. Both times the rifles wouldn't run reliably so I put the factory part back in. I scratched around in my parts box and found the padded buffer with the steel core and stuck it in that gun. If it will run well with it I will prob leave it in there. The synthetic buffers seem to have "bounce" to them that increases the bolt speed. I have heard the factory one is set up to make the bolt run at the best speed for function but IDK.

How have you observed a faster rate of bolt return?  Manually charging it is not going to come close to replicating live firing conditions.  My first thought since you cracked a factory MIM Ruger bolt stop and have had issues with buffered ones is your spring or guide may be worn, dirty or non-conforming.  Replace your spring and guide with OEM units (very inexpensive) or reputable aftermarket ones (still very inexpensive) and use a buffered bolt stop.

This ^^^

There is a ¼ inch wall anchor that you can make one from.

Do the receiver holes look ok?  I find it odd that a steel pin would break before damaging an aluminum receiver. If the pin got battered hard enough to break the pin you’d think the receiver holes would get oblong.
Tuffer buffers are the way to go, 3 for $12 shipped.http://tufferbuffer.com/

I was seeing the bolt return to battery without picking up the next round from the mag. It was like the bolt was faster than the mag could feed. Guns worked fine with the factory stops. That rifle has the factory spring and guide and is not that old. I stuck a buffered bolt stop in there and am going to try it Saturday.

The holes are still round. The inside of the broken piece looked grainy instead of smooth so I have a feeling it was a bum part.