Brand new die, Forster FL .308 custom honed to .3335
Once fired Lapua brass,deprimed,  just tumbled, role lubed, first piece into the die...
And I borked it....
Set up per die instructions.
How the hell do I get this case neck out without damaging the die????

Photographic evidence of my never ending stupidity


Oh I figured with the decaper rod removed, maybe I can push it on through with another case. A lc case though... Nope just deeper...
... So how borked am I?

ETA----Apparently what I thought was well lubed,  wasn't. I was able to get the cased neck out by pulling the expander button from the bottom of the die out of the top. It came right out with finger pressure turning the adjuster nuts. Crisis averted...

When you roll lube, how much lube do you get on the neck?

...and, as mentioned above, consider a spray lube!    I have been using this (case lube for cheap bastards) lube ever since reading about it here.  I clean my sizing die and bushings after each sizing run.  So, when I start a new sizing run, my dies are "dry".  I am always a little more careful sizing the first few cases and occasionally add some Hornady Unique lube (like Imperial sizing wax except twice the quantity for about 1/2 the price) to a case or 2 at the beginning of each run if I feel too much friction for my liking...  after that though it is smooth sailing to the end of the run...

I lubed for many years using the pad and the thick brown goop case sizing grease. After first stuck case I began pressing the case neck into the pad to get a bit of the lube into the inside of the neck.

Whenever I wanted to handle components for other stages I was washing my hands over and over.

Then I bought some Hornady spray on case lube and the lubeing process took on a whole new level of aggravation. Long drying time and stuck cases.

Then I found the case lube recipe here in this forum. The recipe is so simple: 12 parts 90+ isopropyl alcohol and 1 part liquid lanolin. Shake in a spray bottle to let the alcohol and lanolin

emulsify. Put as many clean brass as you like into a large zip-lock type bag with 40-60% case-mouths pointed up to get the lube into the necks. After a few squirts close the bag and message

the brass around inside the bag to evenly distribute the lube. You'll quickly see and feel an even lube application, just that easy. Lay out the brass on a clean rag or dedicated rag to air dry. Drying

time will vary per individual heat/humidity reloading area but an hour +/- is most common. Some will give a clean sizing die a squirt.

No more stuck cases. Brass is no-where-near as worked as other lubes. And the skin on your hands will actually like the lanolin.

@hardhit77, since you asked how to get the busted neck out, do this:

1- Plug up the end where the decapping stem goes

2- Pour molten CERROSAFE (buy it from Brownells) chamber-casting material into the body cavity of the die (1/4- to 1/2 is plenty)

3- When it hardens, punch out the plug (save the cerrosafe)

4- Use a steel bore brush to remove any residual cerrosafe or heat the die body (DO NOT let any part of the die body turn blue or red!)

Cerrosafe melts at a very low temp and will not harm your die.

Shoot me a PM with your address and I'll send you some Cerrosafe if you need it.

I was able to use the expander button installed from the bottom and hand tightened the adjuster nuts to pull the remaining brass out of the top thankfully. Also already ordered some lanolin and a spray bottle lol

For a neck that won't come out you can cast a plug which holds it using CerroSafe (normally for making chamber castings) and then use a wooden dowel to drive the plug out.