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Posted: 3/19/2023 8:45:31 PM EDT
I have had a pvs14 for a few years and its an awesome tool. I have always used my pvs14 as a handheld monocular worn around my neck but now I want to mount it on my opscore bump.
From my research in the helmet pic thread I am thinking wilcox g11, I normally wear Sordins so probably another pair of those helmet mounted , and a surefire mini scout for white light so far. What else would I need? Once I migrate to a ballistic helmet does anything change besides the weight and coverage? |
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Counter weight?
-TNVC mohawk Retention system for nod? -Kenetic Nerd IR beacon? -Unity Spark |
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Possible you'll need a J-arm with a dovetail unless you already have it.
It's also nice to have an IR helmet light. I have the Inforce 400 lumen light that switches from IR to white light with an Echo Arms helmet plate that works good. |
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Quoted: Possible you'll need a J-arm with a dovetail unless you already have it. It's also nice to have an IR helmet light. I have the Inforce 400 lumen light that switches from IR to white light with an Echo Arms helmet plate that works good. View Quote The G11 is a horn aka standard interface, so a dovetail JArm won't work. OP a G11 will directly mount to your OpsCore bump, so you're good there. If you want to move to a ballistic, you will need a helmet shroud that matches the G11 mount (most common) The one thing I would highly recommend is a retention lanyard which can be something as simple as a shoelace or 550 chord and a way to attach it to your bump (tied to the vent holes) and tether it to your 14 (paracord loop near the on/off and a mini Nite Ize carabiner0. |
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AMP arms and AXL adapters for your Sordins.
I just use the bungee hooks on my Ops Core helmets for retention. Depending on which ballistic you get, the pads are more important for the heavier helmets. The Lux Liner pads that came in my FAST SF were fine, but replacing the cheaper pads that came in my FAST LE with 4D pads made a huge difference in comfort. |
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Quoted: I ask this from a position of complete ignorance, is that the mechanism with which the mount interfaces with the monocular and why is it better? View Quote Yes, it's the interface between the mount that attaches to the shroud on the helmet and the J-alarm that attaches to the monocular. You'd need a dovetail compatible j-arm as well as the dovetail mount. Dovetail is more stable than bayonet mount. Plus, you can use the same dovetail mount when you upgrade to duals later. |
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Quoted: I ask this from a position of complete ignorance, is that the mechanism with which the mount interfaces with the monocular and why is it better? View Quote Provides more secure lockup, but your mount must accept it also. |
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The only reason I would ever go with a G11 is because I had to use bayonet because Army. Dovetail is worth the money. The upside to the G11 is that it puts the PVS-14 lower and more to the front so it is easier to clear obstacles and get in vics. The downside with the G11 is that it puts the PVS-14 lower and more to the front when stowed...
And I have one. |
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anyone have links to dovetail mounts that interface with the opscore bump? What about J arms that work with a dovetail mount?
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Quoted: anyone have links to dovetail mounts that interface with the opscore bump? What about J arms that work with a dovetail mount? View Quote You can find these on our site. Easiest way to find is to goggle "TNVC" then the name such as "TNVC Wilcox G24" Wilcox G24 Norotos LoSto (USMC variant) Either of these will work with the Noisefighters AX14-PRO dovetail j-arm. I recommend using the Wilcox PVS-14 dovetail arm with the G24. Another mount & arm combo is the Norotos INVG Hyper with the Norotos Dual Dovetail Adapter. |
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Quoted: You can find these on our site. Easiest way to find is to goggle "TNVC" then the name such as "TNVC Wilcox G24" Wilcox G24 Norotos LoSto (USMC variant) Either of these will work with the Noisefighters AX14-PRO dovetail j-arm. I recommend using the Wilcox PVS-14 dovetail arm with the G24. Another mount & arm combo is the Norotos INVG Hyper with the Norotos Dual Dovetail Adapter. View Quote Thanks that's exactly what I needed. |
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It's already been covered... but I wanted to double tap the counterweight. Thought I didn't need one initially running a TW bump and a single pvs14... had my g24 at max height and was still having issues. A friend suggested a counterweight.
I havent ran around with it yet, but I can already telling its going to be a massive improvement. |
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Quoted: It's already been covered... but I wanted to double tap the counterweight. Thought I didn't need one initially running a TW bump and a single pvs14... had my g24 at max height and was still having issues. A friend suggested a counterweight. I havent ran around with it yet, but I can already telling its going to be a massive improvement. View Quote I grabbed the TNVC mohawk, I have not tried it yet though as I still need a mount for the monocular. |
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when you say 4d pads would that be these?
https://tnvc.com/shop/4d-tactical-zero-g-deluxe-ops-core-vll-lux-liner-retrofit-kit/ |
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Yes. Should be an Opscore specific set. If you want to go cheap on the mount get a Rhino2 off the ee or ebay and convert it with the pvs15 dovetail socket. Tnvc usually has in stock. Then dovetail j-arm of your choice and you're ready to roll.
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Quoted: when you say 4d pads would that be these? https://tnvc.com/shop/4d-tactical-zero-g-deluxe-ops-core-vll-lux-liner-retrofit-kit/ View Quote Yes as Greenmushroom stated. |
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Quoted: when you say 4d pads would that be these? https://tnvc.com/shop/4d-tactical-zero-g-deluxe-ops-core-vll-lux-liner-retrofit-kit/ View Quote We have 2 listings of deluxe pads. This one above is for Ops-Core helmets such as the FAST SF that have the vented lux liner (VLL). Only select this version if you have the VLL. If you have a Ops-Core FAST BUMP or older legacy ballistic without the VLL then you need the other deluxe kit (it won't have VLL in the listing). If you get hung up shoot me a PM. |
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Quoted: We have 2 listings of deluxe pads. This one above is for Ops-Core helmets such as the FAST SF that have the vented lux liner (VLL). Only select this version if you have the VLL. If you have a Ops-Core FAST BUMP or older legacy ballistic without the VLL then you need the other deluxe kit (it won't have VLL in the listing). If you get hung up shoot me a PM. View Quote Thanks, any idea when the g24 will be back in stock? |
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Quoted: Thanks, any idea when the g24 will be back in stock? View Quote It’s going to be a minute we have a lot of back orders. If you need a helmet mount now, we have the Norotos LoSto USMC variant in stock in coyote brown. It’s a great mount very similar to the G24. The main difference is the G24 has a little more forward travel. This extra travel may be necessary with a gas mask or the Ops-Core Step In Visor depending on the goggle. For regular use the LoSto is fine as is. |
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Quoted: It’s going to be a minute we have a lot of back orders. If you need a helmet mount now, we have the Norotos LoSto USMC variant in stock in coyote brown. It’s a great mount very similar to the G24. The main difference is the G24 has a little more forward travel. This extra travel may be necessary with a gas mask or the Ops-Core Step In Visor depending on the goggle. For regular use the LoSto is fine as is. View Quote Ordered the Norotos and noisefighter thanks for all the help so far Will and everybody above. I think next will be a second pair of sordins, AMP arms, and the AXL adapters. |
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Quoted: Ordered the Norotos and noisefighter thanks for all the help so far Will and everybody above. I think next will be a second pair of sordins, AMP arms, and the AXL adapters. View Quote Damn. Meant to post back yesterday. Found 3 Noisefighter Arms ill probably sell in EE and was going to offer you one for the new setup. All my helmets have Comtacs but I use Sordins for regular range use and love them. If you ordered the PVS14 Mount from their site I'm sure you saw the gel ear cups they have with the little cutout for eyepro arms. They work great! |
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Team Wendy and HHV bumps have metal mounts in shroud. The rest are 'molded'.
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My TNVC stuff shows up tomorrow, going to get it all put together tomorrow night after the gym.
From using my monocular as a handheld it seems pretty forgiving but I still want to ask, any best practices I should know going in? The only thing I can think to compare it to is leveling a scope or properly fitting body armor, neither is complicated but both have methodical steps and goals, I assume mounting a pvs14 is probably similar? |
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Quoted: My TNVC stuff shows up tomorrow, going to get it all put together tomorrow night after the gym. From using my monocular as a handheld it seems pretty forgiving but I still want to ask, any best practices I should know going in? The only thing I can think to compare it to is leveling a scope or properly fitting body armor, neither is complicated but both have methodical steps and goals, I assume mounting a pvs14 is probably similar? View Quote Mounting is straight forward with the only real variable being distance from the face. Expect to tweek all of the knobs on the mount to get it lined up with your eye. Personally, once I get it centered up, I push the tube away until just before the image starts to shrink. This standoff gives me maximum peripheral vision around the tube. Focus at the stars for an infinity focus. Depth of field at that distance is so large that it's good until fairly close. Learn live with things being a little fuzzy at close range. Conversely, depth of field at close range is so narrow that it's nearly useless except for momentary tasks. Focus the front ring first, the back ring (diopter) second, and then reconfirm the front ring to properly focus. |
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Even with just a 14 run some counterweight. You want the helmet to be reasonably balanced. Like if you but a finger mid way on each side and lifted the 14 shouldn't swing right down. With a little counterweight and the 4d pads it should just float on top your head. Tightening the worm dial and you can leave your chinstrap fairly loose and have it just be for retention and not stability. With as light as your setup is if done properly you should be able to wear it for hours at a time without discomfort.
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Quoted: Even with just a 14 run some counterweight. You want the helmet to be reasonably balanced. Like if you but a finger mid way on each side and lifted the 14 shouldn't swing right down. With a little counterweight and the 4d pads it should just float on top your head. Tightening the worm dial and you can leave your chinstrap fairly loose and have it just be for retention and not stability. With as light as your setup is if done properly you should be able to wear it for hours at a time without discomfort. View Quote Yup, the "Balance on a Broomstick/Finger Method" is my pref as well. You will use more weight, but there is zero, rearward neck muscle use needed - it is literally perfectly balanced. |
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Thanks for the info fellas, appreciate all the assistance so far.
Dumb questions the retention lanyards go to the mount and not the arm or monocular right? Any considerations with retention to avoid or reduce injuries? I imagine taking the mount and attachments to the face would suck but would be preferred to finding out if the chin strap or your neck fail first. |
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Quoted: Thanks for the info fellas, appreciate all the assistance so far. Dumb questions the retention lanyards go to the mount and not the arm or monocular right? Any considerations with retention to avoid or reduce injuries? I imagine taking the mount and attachments to the face would suck but would be preferred to finding out if the chin strap or your neck fail first. View Quote Loop a piece of 550 chord through the 2 holes just under the on/off knob, then use a Nite Ize mini carabiner to tie it all together. |
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step 1 is now complete thanks to you guys and TNVC.
I took my helmet out after I got home from the gym and got everything adjusted and focused, shout out to topgunpilot20 for the tips about the stars that was awesome and easy. After I got back inside I played with the helmet a little with the RMR on my ta33 equipped rifle and the rmr on a glock 19 and it is unreal how easy it is to pick up the dot and target in what seems like complete darkness to the naked eye. I am totally doing dry fire with nods now. Next up I think will be retention of some kind, pads, and ear pro. I am already contemplating a laser/illuminator to ruin my perfectly balanced and set up rifles with as well. Thanks again for all the wonderful help so far you guys are appreciated. Attached File |
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Quoted: After I got back inside I played with the helmet a little with the RMR on my ta33 equipped rifle and the rmr on a glock 19 and it is unreal how easy it is to pick up the dot and target . . . View Quote I was also blown away how intuitive it was to shoot a red dot pistol and a high-mounted red dot on a rifle under NODs. Congrats and welcome to the dark side. |
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Quoted: Loop a piece of 550 chord through the 2 holes just under the on/off knob, then use a Nite Ize mini carabiner to tie it all together. View Quote @Forlorn-Hope I gutted some 550 & tied it off in those 2 loops. I needed it this winter when i didn't click the J arm all the way in when swapping from a buddys helmet. Cheap & easy. |
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Quoted: step 1 is now complete thanks to you guys and TNVC. I took my helmet out after I got home from the gym and got everything adjusted and focused, shout out to topgunpilot20 for the tips about the stars that was awesome and easy. After I got back inside I played with the helmet a little with the RMR on my ta33 equipped rifle and the rmr on a glock 19 and it is unreal how easy it is to pick up the dot and target in what seems like complete darkness to the naked eye. I am totally doing dry fire with nods now. Next up I think will be retention of some kind, pads, and ear pro. I am already contemplating a laser/illuminator to ruin my perfectly balanced and set up rifles with as well. Thanks again for all the wonderful help so far you guys are appreciated. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/369083/bump_jpg-2786861.JPG View Quote Here's a tip. When using your LoSto USMC variant, make sure to lock the top lever (the break away lever) if you do not need the breakaway feature. This prevents accidentally releasing the mount if you push the bottom lever instead of the button. |
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Quoted: Thanks for the info fellas, appreciate all the assistance so far. Dumb questions the retention lanyards go to the mount and not the arm or monocular right? Any considerations with retention to avoid or reduce injuries? I imagine taking the mount and attachments to the face would suck but would be preferred to finding out if the chin strap or your neck fail first. View Quote Retention lanyards should attach directly to the device, not the mount or arm--the logic is that at the end of the day, the device itself is the most important and sensitive component--at worst, the mount and arm can be replaced if they were to somehow inadvertently separate, this is especially true for military users, where the mount and arm are considered "durable" (expendable) BII (Basic Issue Items), while the monocular itself is considered SI (Sensitive Item) and tracked by serial number. For the FAST Bump in particular, I like our "Base Jump" lanyard (the FAST Bump was originally called the "Base Jump"): https://tnvc.com/shop/tnvc-base-jump-lanyard/ It's a little pricey for what it is (the cost is dictated by the cost of the Wilcox lanyard, which we have no control over unfortunately), however it's an extremely slick and effective way to retain a device on the Bump and similar non-ballistic helmets with cooling holes--the only other thing you'd need a small split ring to install on the rear of the battery compartment of the PVS-14 (there should be some small loops for it) that you can clip the lanyard to. The other option, as another person has mentioned, is a few loops of 550 cord and an S-Biner is a tried, true, and cost effective method of NVG retention, just as if not more effective than a lot of Velcro and bungee cord options out there. Beyond that, yes, it sucks to take a PVS-14 to the teeth, but yes, it's better than breaking your neck or losing your goggle. The breakaway function on the LoSto and G24 are designed to prevent you from having worry about whether your chin strap or neck will fail first, as are good, purpose designed lanyards like the Wilcox, which is designed to have an (IIRC) 75 lb. break strain to prevent injury. Incidentally, cheap, common S-Biners and 550 cord have a similar breaking point--this application is one of the few times it's not worth it to pay extra for higher quality stuff, as you want your lanyard to break away at a certain point. ~Augee |
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couple questions.
dudes that wear glasses, do you leave the eyecup on or fold it back/remove it? passive aiming with a dot, I can see the dot, I can see my target, nothing is smacking into the optic or monocular, any other considerations to be made? |
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Quoted: dudes that wear glasses, do you leave the eyecup on or fold it back/remove it? View Quote I prefer to remove entirely, and remove the eyecup retaining ring as well. While it's minor, the eyecup retaining ring constricts the FOV ever so slightly--it probably does not make a huge practical difference, but it "feels" far less restrictive to me. ~Augee |
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Quoted: couple questions. dudes that wear glasses, do you leave the eyecup on or fold it back/remove it? passive aiming with a dot, I can see the dot, I can see my target, nothing is smacking into the optic or monocular, any other considerations to be made? View Quote Remove the eye cup completely regardless of glasses. Sounds like passive aiming is working fine for you. |
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Quoted: Remove the eye cup completely regardless of glasses. View Quote ^ This and I also remove the ring like Augee mentioned. If you’re paranoid about damaging the lens then leave the ring in because it gives some offset but the lens is recessed so odds of damage are low. I’ve ran without the ring on every device I’ve ever owned and it’s been quite a few and never damaged a lens. Using the eyecup on a head mounted device eliminates any ability to have peripheral vision. You can see surprisingly well around the device especially if you don’t run it right up on your eye. Your peripheral vision is extremely useful and needed in many cases. Using the eyecup can also create lens fogging issues. |
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This is why I love ARFCOM, learned a bunch in this thread. I have also been using an Airsoft helmet as a nods hanger. I picked up a team wendy Exfil Sar helmet for work. I am impressed with the comfort of it. Looking to upgrade.
After watching the trench warfare in Ukraine, I am beginning to think a ballistic may be in my future. Right now I have neck issues so trying to keep it light. Great info on helmet setups. |
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Quoted: This is why I love ARFCOM, learned a bunch in this thread. I have also been using an Airsoft helmet as a nods hanger. I picked up a team wendy Exfil Sar helmet for work. I am impressed with the comfort of it. Looking to upgrade. After watching the trench warfare in Ukraine, I am beginning to think a ballistic may be in my future. Right now I have neck issues so trying to keep it light. Great info on helmet setups. View Quote Its pretty glorious having unlimited access to experienced end users and SMEs for basically any topic you can imagine, it makes the learning curve much more gentle for people like me. I am also in the same boat, this experience has me wanting to keep the bump slick as is for general tasks and put a ballistic helmet together dedicated to shooting/training... I have also never worn a ballistic helmet so that could just be my own ignorance speaking. |
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